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      05-10-2022, 10:46 PM   #1
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Heat Soak/IATs/Power

Hey guys,

I've looked everywhere on here but can't seem to find any definitive numbers or data on this. The car seems to be powerful enough, but as I will be tracking the car this summer, I am concerned about IATs as the aluminum charge pipes/intakes I have now are extremely hot after running the car hard.

My current setup:
-Bootmod3 Stage 2 93 tune
-Active Autowerke equal-length midpipe
-VRSF catless downpipes
-VRSF intakes
-ARM aluminum chargepipes

Is the difference between aluminum and plastic chargepipes really that much in regards to heat soak? (I'm aware there are silicone ones that supposedly remedy this, I just don't like the look and I've heard fitment isn't the best)

Just looking for input from anyone else running similar setup as far as what next steps should be to maximize cooling and power.

Thanks!
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      05-12-2022, 09:36 AM   #2
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any difference is negligible in most scenarios real world in terms of the charge pipes but if you're worried about it you could always get heat wrap and wrap your charge pipes.

Single best cooling mod for s55 is the heat exchanger. Dinan/mishimoto/csf/wagner are probably best options for those.

Top mount intercooler is fine from factory. Don't replace it unless yours leaks.
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      05-12-2022, 09:39 AM   #3
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....and FYI I'm running nearly the same setup at you. BM3 flex fuel full e85 stage 2 map 3, vrsf down pipes. Other than crank hub and spark plugs my setup is 100% factory. Zero cooling issues.
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      05-12-2022, 01:48 PM   #4
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Wouldn't even think the front mount is that important. Everything I've read has shown the factory cooling is pretty good?
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      05-13-2022, 01:46 AM   #5
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The stock heat exchanger is suitable; not mandatory to upgrade like the N55, but you can get a better heat exchanger to maximize cooling.

the stock top mount cooler performs well but is prone to leaks; I recommend replacing both
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      05-13-2022, 07:04 AM   #6
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Yes, metal parts heat soak bad in these cars. Plastic doesn't soak much at all. I went back to stock airboxes with BMCs for lower IATs.

With my built motor I did the EOS manifold (big aluminum one) and now I need to add J Meth since it soaks so much heat…
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      05-13-2022, 11:48 AM   #7
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I just installed ESS charge pipes ordered from Mike @ X-PH yesterday. My IATs dropped substantially - by well over 20 degrees, in traffic.

I had aluminum charge pipes before and they were HOT! I burned my hand trying to take them off to put on the ESS ones lol
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      05-13-2022, 11:56 AM   #8
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I'd go with aluminum charge pipes and an intercooler. Use water wetter or engine ice for your fluids.

Once air is flowing it's not going to make much of a difference.
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      05-13-2022, 12:04 PM   #9
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Hey guys,

Thanks for all the awesome responses!

I was able to do some datalogging yesterday and with an outside temp of 86 the hottest the IAT climbed to was 106 after several hard pulls and sitting idle, when I started driving again it went down and stayed at 99 degrees.

Also not sure if it's relevant but the max boost I had (stock turbos) was 26.9, which I'm assuming is way out of their efficiency range and would be indicative that there are no air leaks in the system?

So I don't think I have a cooling "problem" per se, the aluminum intakes and charge pipes just feel so hot, but the TMIC is ice cold to the touch.

General consensus seems to be what I've read on here before, that at idle you will see some heat soak obviously but when air is flowing through system while driving the difference is negligible.

I can post datalogs if I need to, just want to make sure everything is as it should be.
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      05-13-2022, 12:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Info@mad-us.com View Post
I'd go with aluminum charge pipes and an intercooler. Use water wetter or engine ice for your fluids.

Once air is flowing it's not going to make much of a difference.
Is there a lot of guys going straight water/water wetter?
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      05-13-2022, 12:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theweebabySeamus View Post
Is there a lot of guys going straight water/water wetter?
Yes thats the budget formula that works very well. You can go straight engine ice though which is what I recommend but its pricey.

If you aren't going to do the entire cooling system but just the intercoolers its not to bad.
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      05-13-2022, 02:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theweebabySeamus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Info@mad-us.com View Post
I'd go with aluminum charge pipes and an intercooler. Use water wetter or engine ice for your fluids.

Once air is flowing it's not going to make much of a difference.
Is there a lot of guys going straight water/water wetter?
Also add 15% coolant if you want to avoid corrosion.
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      05-13-2022, 03:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Also add 15% coolant if you want to avoid corrosion.
Distilled water only forgot to add that part. If you live where it freezes do not use this.
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      05-13-2022, 08:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Also add 15% coolant if you want to avoid corrosion.
Water wetter should protect against corrosion, at least somewhat.
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      05-13-2022, 08:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theweebabySeamus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Also add 15% coolant if you want to avoid corrosion.
Water wetter should protect against corrosion, at least somewhat.
Yeah it does but Redline recommends 15% coolant minimum on a street car.
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