VTT Crank Bolt Capture install guide

[e46m3to335i]

Originally Posted by Wanted_M

And some R rated comments, priceless

Most definitely!

I personally think the worst part of the DP removal and install is removing the (2) 10mm DP bracket nuts/bolts. Other than that, easier than N54 DP's and a little more time consuming than an N55 car IMO.

[b16civic]

There are two types they sell

VTT-S55-CBC
And the other one is

VTT-CRANKGAURD-2

Which one is it?

[M2_MEDUSA]

Shouldn't take anyone more than an hour and a half. Everything can be accessed from underneath incredibly easily. Pop off the skid plate and boom there's the crank.

[///Gunner]

Originally Posted by LRGM3

Just did this install, two tricks I learned that might be useful:

1) if the crank pulley moves (which mine did) just put a torx bit in the tensioner with a ratchet on it, then wedge it with a pipe on the end towards the intake to hold the belt loose (made it easy to work on after that)

2) if you take your cell phone in video mode with the flashlight on you can see easily what’s going on inside the crank pulley in terms of alignment

Overall this install was much easier than I was expecting

Is it possible that if the crank pulley moves that the engine timing can be effected? Im in the middle of the CBC install now and my crank pulley moved, so now I have to release the belt tension the put it back together, but concerned on messing anything up…

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by ///Gunner

Is it possible that if the crank pulley moves that the engine timing can be effected? Im in the middle of the CBC install now and my crank pulley moved, so now I have to release the belt tension the put it back together, but concerned on messing anything up…

You won't mess up timing as that is handled by the timing chain. The belt is just for powering accessories. There's no timing involved with those. Just release the tensioner and put everything back together then re add the tension.

[///Gunner]

Originally Posted by marauder1

You won't mess up timing as that is jangled by the timing chain. The belt is just for powering accessories. There's no timing involved with those. Just release the tensioner and put everything back together then re add the tension.

Thanks alot, thats exactly what I did. Releasing the tension from the top made everything so much easier

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Originally Posted by SpecialEdition_F87

Shouldn't take anyone more than an hour and a half. Everything can be accessed from underneath incredibly easily. Pop off the skid plate and boom there's the crank.

Really depends on the mechanic. For a non-mechanic casual wrencher, I tell them to time budget about 4 hours of their day and if you have some time left over, great. If you run a shop and have done it before, it's very quick.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

Really depends on the mechanic. For a non-mechanic casual wrencher, I tell them to time budget about 4 hours of their day and if you have some time left over, great. If you run a shop and have done it before, it's very quick.

If it takes you 4 hours to remove and replace a skid plate and 8 bolts you shouldn't be working on your car.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

I know what you mean but you don't know how other people budget time. Especially for those that aren't used to the work.

The average enthusiast grossly underestimates the actual time they spend. The prep and cleanup are all part of it, and the amateur spends far more time there finding tools, parts, checking sizes, etc. All stuff those of us who are experienced normally do without thinking/part of our general process, bang DONE. Meanwhile Mr. Casual will still be watching youtube vids on how to best align ramps (once they find them).

I've seen Tony change injectors, including coding, in under 20 mins on the N54. Do something enough/be familiar enough and it's silly how fast things can get done. Doesn't apply to the average casual enthusiast.

Chris

[Dav3]

Perhaps a dumb question but is there any reason why I shouldn't do the install with only front ramps that involve an inclination?

Probably really uncomfortable but I'm more curious whether the inclination may have whatever negative effect on installation and if there's any reason it's better to do it with the car level

Picture of my ramp setup

Thoughts?


host service

[MR RIZK]

Originally Posted by Dav3

Perhaps a dumb question but is there any reason why I shouldn't do the install with only front ramps that involve an inclination?

Probably really uncomfortable but I'm more curious whether the inclination may have whatever negative effect on installation and if there's any reason it's better to do it with the car level

Picture of my ramp setup

Thoughts?

Makes no difference to the end result. The question is if you are lowering or raising the radiator and fan for access as you may not have the room.

In my install u can see the height that I required. IMO stands may be a better option.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1606070

[Dav3]

Originally Posted by MR RIZK

Makes no difference to the end result. The question is if you are lowering or raising the radiator and fan for access as you may not have the room.

In my install u can see the height that I required. IMO stands may be a better option.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1606070

Hmm, I was thinking of attempting the install like this guy shows it which doesn't include removing the fan, don't know if I will be forced to or not

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by Dav3

Hmm, I was thinking of attempting the install like this guy shows it which doesn't include removing the fan, don't know if I will be forced to or not

That's how I do my installs. I've done 5-6 that way no. No problems and takes about an hour.

[Dav3]

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1606070

Hmm, I was thinking of attempting the install like this guy shows it which doesn't include removing the fan, don't know if I will be forced to or not

That's how I do my installs. I've done 5-6 that way no. No problems and takes about an hour.

@marauder1

You reckon I can do it from the ramps I showed in the picture 2 posts above or I'm better off with jack stands?

Also any tips and tricks?

[marauder1]

Originally Posted by Dav3

You reckon I can do it from the ramps I showed in the picture 2 posts above or I'm better off with jack stands?

Also any tips and tricks?

No need for jacks. Just need enough room to get under the car to remove the skid plate. Then the rest of your work is just past the front bumper.
With the Allen bolts to tighten they're 6mm I found it much easier to use a ball tip Allen but found it was harder to get the Allen head to torque spec with it slipping. A flat head was easier for that bit but harder to line up. So I use both. Ball to get them all in. Then flat headed to torque to spec.
I install in a star pattern to so push the cover on evenly. Sometimes the cover is a very tight fit others it just slips on all the way down. So if you're is lined up with the holes but isn't sliding all the way on, don't panic and just thread the bolts in on a star pattern going bit by bit.
Having a pillow is nice if you're on your back to rest your head on.
Loosen all the bolts before removing any. I've yet to have the pulley move on me.

[MadM2C]

Originally Posted by marauder1

No need for jacks. Just need enough room to get under the car to remove the skid plate. Then the rest of your work is just past the front bumper.
With the Allen bolts to tighten they're 6mm I found it much easier to use a ball tip Allen but found it was harder to get the Allen head to torque spec with it slipping. A flat head was easier for that bit but harder to line up. So I use both. Ball to get them all in. Then flat headed to torque to spec.
I install in a star pattern to so push the cover on evenly. Sometimes the cover is a very tight fit others it just slips on all the way down. So if you're is lined up with the holes but isn't sliding all the way on, don't panic and just thread the bolts in on a star pattern going bit by bit.
Having a pillow is nice if you're on your back to rest your head on.
Loosen all the bolts before removing any. I've yet to have the pulley move on me.

Just give yourself some extra time in case the crank pulley moves, which case you will have to remove the intake and strut bar to get to the tensioner.

FWIW I tried to be super careful to get the crank pulley to not move, however as soon as I started removing the last bolt, it shifted.

[Dav3]

Links in original post are not working anymore,

Guess this video can help if you screwed up with the belt

[Dav3]

Well fuck my life, the pulley shifted outwards

Now need to buy a T60 torx to re-install the belts

This said, the video I suggested is very good and there is enough space to do everything

Like another member the pulley shifted on my last bolt. Mine was on the bottom. Perhaps untightening them all first and then removing or leaving it to an upper bolt doesn't shift the pulley.

Unlucky.

[MadM2C]

Originally Posted by Dav3

Well fuck my life, the pulley shifted outwards

Now need to buy a T60 torx to re-install the belts

This said, the video I suggested is very good and there is enough space to do everything

Like another member the pulley shifted on my last bolt. Mine was on the bottom. Perhaps untightening them all first and then removing or leaving it to an upper bolt doesn't shift the pulley.

Unlucky.

I tried with top bolt lol. I recommend buying a few extensions and swivel sockets. I had a whole contraption made to get enough torque on the tensioner without removing radiator fan. It’s possible though!

[Dav3]

Originally Posted by MadM2C

I tried with top bolt lol. I recommend buying a few extensions and swivel sockets. I had a whole contraption made to get enough torque on the tensioner without removing radiator fan. It’s possible though!

Do you perhaps have any diy or manual you can link me?

Would it be fine if I just de-tensioned the water pump belt or do I also need to do the other serpentine belt?

The links on this page don't work and signing up on that bogus BMW training platform yielded no results

I can't find the torque specs anywhere, especially for the water pump pulley hmm

[MadM2C]

Originally Posted by Dav3

Do you perhaps have any diy or manual you can link me?

Would it be fine if I just de-tensioned the water pump belt or do I also need to do the other serpentine belt?

The links on this page don't work and signing up on that bogus BMW training platform yielded no results

I can't find the torque specs anywhere, especially for the water pump pulley hmm

No, I just DE tensioned the belt that is on the crank pulley itself, I had a buddy keep the tensioner held tight while I tightened all the bolts for the CBC, centered the belt and released tension. Started the car and took a peak at the pulley while car was on to make sure belt was going smooth, and buttoned her back up.

[jfritz27]

Originally Posted by Dav3

I can't find the torque specs anywhere, especially for the water pump pulley hmm

Check out:
https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...0&postcount=14