11-20-2020, 07:36 AM | #111 |
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11-21-2020, 07:19 AM | #112 |
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Thank you! Since you did it - I have a unique situation where I need a new oil cooler as well (it is bent). Should the shop do this with no extra install because I thought this had to be removed anyhow?
Thanks!
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11-21-2020, 07:31 AM | #113 | |
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There are 3 bolts that hold it in place which they have to be removed in order to gain access to the Pulley (but the lines are still connected), not sure if im explaining myself well. |
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11-21-2020, 03:32 PM | #114 |
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It’s easy to remove the oil cooler. You remove the three bolts (see the OP write up) and swing it down. If you want to replace it, loosen the clamps and pull the hoses off. The hoses are rubber and easy to deal with. Of course you will need to follow proper protocol for bleeding when reconnecting the hoses (cooling lines).
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01-02-2021, 09:27 PM | #115 |
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01-03-2021, 03:39 PM | #116 | |
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Otherwise, suggest getting a quote from one of these shops: 1. https://www.yelp.com/biz/four-b-auto...ce-santa-clara -- ask for Brandon 2. https://www.yelp.com/biz/davids-autoworks-santa-clara-3 3. https://www.yelp.com/biz/silicon-val...er-santa-clara -- ask for Dennis (he did my spLock CH install) All 3 shops above are located within a few hundred feet from each other. |
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Chris@VargasTurboTech1933.00 |
01-18-2021, 08:33 PM | #117 |
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Today I tackled this job, however I didn't find it necessary to proceed beyond removing the intake tube as far as gaining access. I was able to accomplish the install by using a mirror and coming at it from the side and from the top. There's one hose that's clipped onto the drivers side of the fan shroud that I unclipped but that's it. Oh and the pulley did come loose on me so I released tension on the belt. Overall not bad and I'm very relieved I didn't have to take the car apart that much.
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01-23-2021, 09:02 PM | #118 |
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Did this today, man what a pain in the ass haha. On the plus side, all my radiators are squeaky clean now!
I will definitely recommend adding 16 oz or 1 pint of beer to the recommended tool list
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02-10-2021, 11:01 PM | #120 |
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Just press in on the side tabs and pull. It took a bit of jiggling for me
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02-11-2021, 09:50 AM | #121 | |
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Failing this, you can use small pliers but be /very/ careful not to break any plastic. If this becomes necessary for me (other plugs can be even tougher) I usually cover the metal ends of the pliers with several layers of masking tape. Good luck! |
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02-14-2021, 04:32 PM | #122 | |
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03-01-2021, 08:56 AM | #123 |
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Anyone see this video on youtube of a timelapse of someone installing?
Watch it with no audio but noted it doesnt seem like the installer had any trouble or even that he removed the fan? Im mechanically inclined as far as diy downpipes on ramps, charges pipes, spark plugs etc. Thinking I should tackle this with the DIY guide posted, thanks for sharing! |
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03-01-2021, 09:12 AM | #124 | |
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03-01-2021, 09:45 AM | #125 |
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03-12-2021, 03:54 PM | #126 |
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Thanks for this DIY thread. I just bought my first M4 and I read alot about this crank bolt problem and since im not tuning it yet I figured I should get this and install it as a precaution for now, so I just placed an order for it from VTT and looking forward to tuning the car in due time.
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03-15-2021, 09:12 PM | #127 |
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I did the CBC install this weekend. This posting was invaluable. Thank you to the original poster and to the many who logged notes. I tried it from the bottom with the fan shroud pulled up. This was ok for removing the stock bolts, but I didn't have enough room to put in the CBC and bolts. I removed the auxiliary water pump which is easy and I highly recommend it and then the fan shroud came completely out the bottom (I had the car on jack stands). The whole job took several hours, but I was taking my time. Super pumped to have this done.
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Chris@VargasTurboTech1933.00 |
03-16-2021, 01:36 PM | #128 | |
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03-16-2021, 02:04 PM | #129 | |
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03-16-2021, 06:55 PM | #130 | ||
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03-16-2021, 07:18 PM | #131 | |
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Did you completly remove the belt from the crank pulley? If not my only concern would be the crank moving after pulling out all 8 bolts allowing the hub to slip and affecting your timing. Also when it comes to parts like these where were messing with crank bolts and the entire purpose is to save the engine from the bolts backing out you really have to have a good quality torque wrench that is calibrated for accuracy often to make sure your applying the correct amount of torque to prevent under torquing, like snap on ect... Before i ever ventured into turbo upgrads/swapping on my old 335I the first thing i invested in was two quality torque wrenches. I actually should get them calibrated again here soon.
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03-16-2021, 09:54 PM | #132 |
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I did not remove the belt from the pulley. The pulley has nothing to do with timing, so no worries there. I initially did not release belt tension, but as I backed the bolts out I noticed there was a lot of tension still applied to the pulley and it was making it hard to get the bolts out. I would get one loose enough to remove with my fingers, then move on to loosen another. When I went back to take the bolts out by hand some were tight again, as the pulley had shifted and was now pulling against that bolt.
This job is very easy from the top, just a little uncomfortable, but if you're a practiced mechanic it's no problem.
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