1/4 Mile on Stock Tune

[ptper]

Sorry if this has been done before, but just want to post this as a reference/baseline for those who don't have tunes (yet), lol. To be honest, I'm surprised there isn't a sticky of all 1/4 mile times for this platform. In the B8S4 world, it was a pretty popular thread. In any case, here is my "contribution". This was today at Maryland International Raceway. My first pass was the best (below). After that, I just couldn't hook to save my life. I used Launch Control (at 3k rpm) on all passes (4 in total). I tried to adjust the rpm's down but I couldn't get it to, not sure why, as I copied what I saw on YT, ha. All in all, I'm happy with the ET and 60ft, but I think the trap may be down a bit. The particulars are below:

DA: 511 feet
Mods: Lightweight wheels (w/ titanium bolts, lol) and aftermarket exhaust
Tune: OEM
Gas: Pump (93)
Launch Control: Yes

[9SECDD]

That's a great ET for an essentially stock car. Trap seems about right without a tune.
Upgrade your tires. Bridgestone RE71Rs would be a huge improvement. Or Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S if you really want to stick.

Here's where you can find 1/4 mile times for the platform: http://www.dragtimes.com/BMW--M4-Drag-Racing.html

Congrats on a very solid time!

[ptper]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

That's a great ET for an essentially stock car. Trap seems about right without a tune.
Upgrade your tires. Bridgestone RE71Rs would be a huge improvement. Or Mickey Thompson ET Street S/S if you really want to stick.

Here's where you can find 1/4 mile times for the platform: http://www.dragtimes.com/BMW--M4-Drag-Racing.html

Congrats on a very solid time!

Thanks! And thanks for the tire tip...yea, forgot to mention I'm on Michelin PSS. They're very popular, but I'm thinking they're not as sticky as the ones you recommended.

[9SECDD]

Originally Posted by ptper

Thanks! And thanks for the tire tip...yea, forgot to mention I'm on Michelin PSS. They're very popular, but I'm thinking they're not as sticky as the ones you recommended.

MPSS's are fine for daily driving in the rain, but are simply not sticky enough for racing.

Do yourself a favor and upgrade those tires. If you are on stock 19s, get Bridgestone RE71Rs. 265/35R19s up front and 285/35R19s out back. They fit perfectly on stock 19s and hook so much better than MPSSs.

They are a bit loud, and don't last as long, but it's so worth it.

[ptper]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

MPSS's are fine for daily driving in the rain, but are simply not sticky enough for racing.

Do yourself a favor and upgrade those tires. If you are on stock 19s, get Bridgestone RE71Rs. 265/35R19s up front and 285/35R19s out back. They fit perfectly on stock 19s and hook so much better than MPSSs.

They are a bit loud, and don't last as long, but it's so worth it.

Browsing Tire Rack right now, lol.

[9SECDD]

One more thing. After you made your first pass, did you do a quick burnout to clean off the tires? Or did you just line up and run again? Did you drive through the water box? Or did you drive around it?

Regardless of what you did, you should drive around the water box, not through it. Water box is for slicks. But you also need to do a quick burnout to get all the little stones off of your tires that stuck there after you heated them up on your first run.

So once you drive around the water box, back up and stop just before your rear tires enter the water. Then floor it in D3 and sport+ with traction control off. Car will enter smokey burnout mode and drop clutch at 4k, giving you a quick burnout that will clean the tires. Then quickly switch to Launch Control settings and line up at the tree.

Cleaning off the tires with a quick burnout makes a huge difference in traction after your first pass.

[ptper]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

One more thing. After you made your first pass, did you do a quick burnout to clean off the tires? Or did you just line up and run again? Did you drive through the water box? Or did you drive around it?

Regardless of what you did, you should drive around the water box, not through it. Water box is for slicks. But you also need to do a quick burnout to get all the little stones off of your tires that stuck there after you heated them up on your first run.

So once you drive around the water box, back up and stop just before your rear tires enter the water. Then floor it in D3 and sport+ with traction control off. Car will enter smokey burnout mode and drop clutch at 4k, giving you a quick burnout that will clean the tires. Then quickly switch to Launch Control settings and line up at the tree.

Cleaning off the tires with a quick burnout makes a huge difference in traction after your first pass.

Nope, you're right, no burnouts after the first pass. But, I did manage to avoid the water box. What you said, all makes sense now.

I wanted to try the burnouts (they look so cool!), but with so many things I had to remember (dsc off, s3, ac off, windows up, etc.), and I didn't want to look like an idiot or slam into anything, so I decided not to even try. Thanks for the info on smokey burnout mode! Definitely, will need to practice before the next drag day.

[9SECDD]

Originally Posted by ptper

Nope, you're right, no burnouts after the first pass. But, I did manage to avoid the water box. What you said, all makes sense now.

I wanted to try the burnouts (they look so cool!), but with so many things I had to remember (dsc off, s3, ac off, windows up, etc.), and I didn't want to look like an idiot or slam into anything, so I decided not to even try. Thanks for the info on smokey burnout mode! Definitely, will need to practice before the next drag day.

Been there, man. Lots of stress and things to remember. Here's a hot tip: set your M1 & M2 buttons to smokey burnout mode and launch control mode.

Here is data from a previous post I once made on the subject:

Smokey burnout will NOT stop you from activating LC as long as you have your foot completely off of the brake before you mash the gas. But it's common to screw that up and ALMOST let off the brake completely, but not quite, and then mash the gas activating LC on your burnout and blow the ability to use it again on your run. So best bet is to do your burnout with a setting that prevents the possibility of LC activating. Like D3. I learned to use D3 instead of S3 to avoid bouncing off the limiter or having to shift manually in the middle of a burnout.

Here is my advice on drag ace set-up:

Put suspension in Comfort (this is important when drag racing. anything else is dangerous), everything else in sport+ for actual drag racing run.

Use highest octane gas that you can get your hands on. 93 minimum, race gas even better.

Lower your tire pressure in rear tires to maybe 25psi, depending on the tire.

Turn off air conditioner and all windows up for your run.

If you have DCT and plan on using launch control, set one of your M buttons to settings where launch control will work (S3 transmission and DCT fully off (not just MDM, but FULLY off). I set my M2 to launch control settings. This way when you are nervous you know your settings are correct and launch control will work. Make sure engine is warm (oil temp at or above 200 degrees or so?) or launch control will not work.

Set your other M button (I use M1) to burnout setting. Set transmission to D3, DCT again fully off, suspension to comfort and everything else to sport+. This way it is impossible to accidentally activate launch control (because you can't in D3). This is important because if you accidentally activate launch control on the burnout, you will not be able to use it on your run (car prevents using launch control again without a rest).

Then when you go to do your burnout and clean your tires, you have the car in M1, and when you are done, you simply hit M2 and you are good to go for your run with launch control. Do not drive through the water box, that is for slicks. Drive around the water box and then back up to it and stop just before your rear tires would go into the water. Then, with your M1 active and trans in D3, floor it. The DCT will rev to 4000 rpm and dump the clutch, giving you a reasonable burnout (not nearly as good as a line-lock, but ok) that will clean your tires and heat them up a little. I have found that this makes a big difference after your first run when your tires get stones all over them. You have to clean them or you will lose traction at launch.

Then get up to staging lights, one light, move slowly to two lights (go watch some youtube videos and/or watch others at track before your runs). Then quickly step on brake, hold it down, floor gas, and checkered flag will appear on dash telling you that you are in launch control mode. You should likely lower launch rpm to 2500 or so using the lever on the left of your steering wheel (unless you have some seriously sticky tires). But you have to do this quickly because the tree will count down faster than you think. Release the brake on the last light before green, since there is a slight pause before the launch.

After a few runs, you may want to experiment with letting launch control shift into 2nd for you, but then take over and shift using your paddle shifters at 6000rpm or soon after in each gear. Launch control shifts at redline, which is not optimal for small turbos that really drop off in power approaching redline.

[ptper]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

Been there, man. Lots of stress and things to remember. Here's a hot tip: set your M1 & M2 buttons to smokey burnout mode and launch control mode.

Here is data from a previous post I once made on the subject:

Smokey burnout will NOT stop you from activating LC as long as you have your foot completely off of the brake before you mash the gas. But it's common to screw that up and ALMOST let off the brake completely, but not quite, and then mash the gas activating LC on your burnout and blow the ability to use it again on your run. So best bet is to do your burnout with a setting that prevents the possibility of LC activating. Like D3. I learned to use D3 instead of S3 to avoid bouncing off the limiter or having to shift manually in the middle of a burnout.

Here is my advice on drag ace set-up:

Put suspension in Comfort (this is important when drag racing. anything else is dangerous), everything else in sport+ for actual drag racing run.

Use highest octane gas that you can get your hands on. 93 minimum, race gas even better.

Lower your tire pressure in rear tires to maybe 25psi, depending on the tire.

Turn off air conditioner and all windows up for your run.

If you have DCT and plan on using launch control, set one of your M buttons to settings where launch control will work (S3 transmission and DCT fully off (not just MDM, but FULLY off). I set my M2 to launch control settings. This way when you are nervous you know your settings are correct and launch control will work. Make sure engine is warm (oil temp at or above 200 degrees or so?) or launch control will not work.

Set your other M button (I use M1) to burnout setting. Set transmission to D3, DCT again fully off, suspension to comfort and everything else to sport+. This way it is impossible to accidentally activate launch control (because you can't in D3). This is important because if you accidentally activate launch control on the burnout, you will not be able to use it on your run (car prevents using launch control again without a rest).

Then when you go to do your burnout and clean your tires, you have the car in M1, and when you are done, you simply hit M2 and you are good to go for your run with launch control. Do not drive through the water box, that is for slicks. Drive around the water box and then back up to it and stop just before your rear tires would go into the water. Then, with your M1 active and trans in D3, floor it. The DCT will rev to 4000 rpm and dump the clutch, giving you a reasonable burnout (not nearly as good as a line-lock, but ok) that will clean your tires and heat them up a little. I have found that this makes a big difference after your first run when your tires get stones all over them. You have to clean them or you will lose traction at launch.

Then get up to staging lights, one light, move slowly to two lights (go watch some youtube videos and/or watch others at track before your runs). Then quickly step on brake, hold it down, floor gas, and checkered flag will appear on dash telling you that you are in launch control mode. You should likely lower launch rpm to 2500 or so using the lever on the left of your steering wheel (unless you have some seriously sticky tires). But you have to do this quickly because the tree will count down faster than you think. Release the brake on the last light before green, since there is a slight pause before the launch.

After a few runs, you may want to experiment with letting launch control shift into 2nd for you, but then take over and shift using your paddle shifters at 6000rpm or soon after in each gear. Launch control shifts at redline, which is not optimal for small turbos that really drop off in power approaching redline.

Holy Chit, this should be a friggin sticky!!!

Now, I'm really glad I posted. Thanks, man. I'm sure this write-up was a result of a lot of blood, sweat and tears on the track, lol. Forums at its finest.

[9SECDD]

Originally Posted by ptper

Holy Chit, this should be a friggin sticky!!!

Now, I'm really glad I posted. Thanks, man. I'm sure this write-up was a result of a lot of blood, sweat and tears on the track, lol. Forums at its finest.

Thanks, man. Glad to be of help.

Here's a vid showing me doing what I explained:

[JoeyBananas]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

Thanks, man. Glad to be of help.

Here's a vid showing me doing what I explained:

Awesome!

[LukeM15]

Subscribed!

[Mikewitdayasm3]

Where are the stock 6spd times.. Wanna see where I'm at with a 12.484@115

[A418t81]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

Been there, man. Lots of stress and things to remember. Here's a hot tip: set your M1 & M2 buttons to smokey burnout mode and launch control mode.

Here is data from a previous post I once made on the subject:

Smokey burnout will NOT stop you from activating LC as long as you have your foot completely off of the brake before you mash the gas. But it's common to screw that up and ALMOST let off the brake completely, but not quite, and then mash the gas activating LC on your burnout and blow the ability to use it again on your run. So best bet is to do your burnout with a setting that prevents the possibility of LC activating. Like D3. I learned to use D3 instead of S3 to avoid bouncing off the limiter or having to shift manually in the middle of a burnout.

Here is my advice on drag ace set-up:

Put suspension in Comfort (this is important when drag racing. anything else is dangerous), everything else in sport+ for actual drag racing run.

Use highest octane gas that you can get your hands on. 93 minimum, race gas even better.

Lower your tire pressure in rear tires to maybe 25psi, depending on the tire.

Turn off air conditioner and all windows up for your run.

If you have DCT and plan on using launch control, set one of your M buttons to settings where launch control will work (S3 transmission and DCT fully off (not just MDM, but FULLY off). I set my M2 to launch control settings. This way when you are nervous you know your settings are correct and launch control will work. Make sure engine is warm (oil temp at or above 200 degrees or so?) or launch control will not work.

Set your other M button (I use M1) to burnout setting. Set transmission to D3, DCT again fully off, suspension to comfort and everything else to sport+. This way it is impossible to accidentally activate launch control (because you can't in D3). This is important because if you accidentally activate launch control on the burnout, you will not be able to use it on your run (car prevents using launch control again without a rest).

Then when you go to do your burnout and clean your tires, you have the car in M1, and when you are done, you simply hit M2 and you are good to go for your run with launch control. Do not drive through the water box, that is for slicks. Drive around the water box and then back up to it and stop just before your rear tires would go into the water. Then, with your M1 active and trans in D3, floor it. The DCT will rev to 4000 rpm and dump the clutch, giving you a reasonable burnout (not nearly as good as a line-lock, but ok) that will clean your tires and heat them up a little. I have found that this makes a big difference after your first run when your tires get stones all over them. You have to clean them or you will lose traction at launch.

Then get up to staging lights, one light, move slowly to two lights (go watch some youtube videos and/or watch others at track before your runs). Then quickly step on brake, hold it down, floor gas, and checkered flag will appear on dash telling you that you are in launch control mode. You should likely lower launch rpm to 2500 or so using the lever on the left of your steering wheel (unless you have some seriously sticky tires). But you have to do this quickly because the tree will count down faster than you think. Release the brake on the last light before green, since there is a slight pause before the launch.

After a few runs, you may want to experiment with letting launch control shift into 2nd for you, but then take over and shift using your paddle shifters at 6000rpm or soon after in each gear. Launch control shifts at redline, which is not optimal for small turbos that really drop off in power approaching redline.

Most of this is pretty good, but there is nearly no drop off of power to redline in the F8X depending on your factory state of tune and shifting early does nothing but slow you down. The non-zcp cars hold peak power all the way to 7500, and the ZCP cars drop about 25 whp to redline over peak power at the wheels.

My old '15 M3:

image by glmmd81, on Flickr

[trey100]

Originally Posted by Mikewitdayasm3

Where are the stock 6spd times.. Wanna see where I'm at with a 12.484@115

Impressive time. Stock? What launch technique?

Haven't gone yet but plan to.

[9SECDD]

Originally Posted by A418t81

Most of this is pretty good, but there is nearly no drop off of power to redline in the F8X depending on your factory state of tune and shifting early does nothing but slow you down. The non-zcp cars hold peak power all the way to 7500, and the ZCP cars drop about 25 whp to redline over peak power at the wheels.

My old '15 M3:

image by glmmd81, on Flickr

Interesting that yours did not drop off. I've seen many other stock dyno graphs that did, and others with significant drag racing experience who achieved best times shifting early (with DCT, not stick).

All of my dynos were post-mods (including upgraded turbos) and tuning, but even now, my best 1/4 mile ETs have been shifting early at around 6500 rpm.

YMMV

[CPWINCH]

Originally Posted by NJ-M4

Been there, man. Lots of stress and things to remember. Here's a hot tip: set your M1 & M2 buttons to smokey burnout mode and launch control mode.

Here is data from a previous post I once made on the subject:

Smokey burnout will NOT stop you from activating LC as long as you have your foot completely off of the brake before you mash the gas. But it's common to screw that up and ALMOST let off the brake completely, but not quite, and then mash the gas activating LC on your burnout and blow the ability to use it again on your run. So best bet is to do your burnout with a setting that prevents the possibility of LC activating. Like D3. I learned to use D3 instead of S3 to avoid bouncing off the limiter or having to shift manually in the middle of a burnout.

Here is my advice on drag ace set-up:

Put suspension in Comfort (this is important when drag racing. anything else is dangerous), everything else in sport+ for actual drag racing run.

Use highest octane gas that you can get your hands on. 93 minimum, race gas even better.

Lower your tire pressure in rear tires to maybe 25psi, depending on the tire.

Turn off air conditioner and all windows up for your run.

If you have DCT and plan on using launch control, set one of your M buttons to settings where launch control will work (S3 transmission and DCT fully off (not just MDM, but FULLY off). I set my M2 to launch control settings. This way when you are nervous you know your settings are correct and launch control will work. Make sure engine is warm (oil temp at or above 200 degrees or so?) or launch control will not work.

Set your other M button (I use M1) to burnout setting. Set transmission to D3, DCT again fully off, suspension to comfort and everything else to sport+. This way it is impossible to accidentally activate launch control (because you can't in D3). This is important because if you accidentally activate launch control on the burnout, you will not be able to use it on your run (car prevents using launch control again without a rest).

Then when you go to do your burnout and clean your tires, you have the car in M1, and when you are done, you simply hit M2 and you are good to go for your run with launch control. Do not drive through the water box, that is for slicks. Drive around the water box and then back up to it and stop just before your rear tires would go into the water. Then, with your M1 active and trans in D3, floor it. The DCT will rev to 4000 rpm and dump the clutch, giving you a reasonable burnout (not nearly as good as a line-lock, but ok) that will clean your tires and heat them up a little. I have found that this makes a big difference after your first run when your tires get stones all over them. You have to clean them or you will lose traction at launch.

Then get up to staging lights, one light, move slowly to two lights (go watch some youtube videos and/or watch others at track before your runs). Then quickly step on brake, hold it down, floor gas, and checkered flag will appear on dash telling you that you are in launch control mode. You should likely lower launch rpm to 2500 or so using the lever on the left of your steering wheel (unless you have some seriously sticky tires). But you have to do this quickly because the tree will count down faster than you think. Release the brake on the last light before green, since there is a slight pause before the launch.

After a few runs, you may want to experiment with letting launch control shift into 2nd for you, but then take over and shift using your paddle shifters at 6000rpm or soon after in each gear. Launch control shifts at redline, which is not optimal for small turbos that really drop off in power approaching redline.

This is great advice. Only thing I disagree on, for a stock car, you should shift at redline in every gear. If you are tuned with stock turbos then yes shift at or a little after 6k

[StealthFish]

I am just posting to hold this page. I would love to try this at the track next time I go as my best time on my stock car is 12.5. I have seen people break 11's and I didn't apply any of these things. Great to be a sticky.

I do have a question. When you use LC, the car shifts for you automatically. Even with the kickdown, foot all the way down, can you override the automatic shifts by pressing the upshift paddles yourself? Or will I have to let go of the kickdown but keep throttle all the way down right before the kickdown is active to manual shifting myself?

[9SECDD]

Originally Posted by StealthFish

I am just posting to hold this page. I would love to try this at the track next time I go as my best time on my stock car is 12.5. I have seen people break 11's and I didn't apply any of these things. Great to be a sticky.

I do have a question. When you use LC, the car shifts for you automatically. Even with the kickdown, foot all the way down, can you override the automatic shifts by pressing the upshift paddles yourself? Or will I have to let go of the kickdown but keep throttle all the way down right before the kickdown is active to manual shifting myself?

Sorry, just saw this. YES, you can just paddle shift exactly as you are and takeover while still floored. Do not lift...unless you are about to crash into the wall...LOL

[Swiftym3]

Originally Posted by 9SECDD

Interesting that yours did not drop off. I've seen many other stock dyno graphs that did, and others with significant drag racing experience who achieved best times shifting early (with DCT, not stick).

All of my dynos were post-mods (including upgraded turbos) and tuning, but even now, my best 1/4 mile ETs have been shifting early at around 6500 rpm.

YMMV

100% true ... 6100-6500 is where you will want to shift to have the fastest passes

[JayKno]

Just got back from the track. My times were absolutely horrible.

Stock with stage 2 e30 bm3 ots tune. Stock MPSS 19" wheels and tires. About 4mm tread left. 26 psi.

I'm having major traction issues. I had to let out if the throttle on my first attempt because the car was getting sideways. As soon as I did the car seemed to go into "neutral" and wouldn't accelerate. A few seconds later power came back on and right back to tire spinning. Seems like I can't get traction, even at speed. Are my tires just that bad? What am I doing wrong?

[gman_newyork]

Originally Posted by JayKno

Just got back from the track. My times were absolutely horrible.

Stock with stage 2 e30 bm3 ots tune. Stock MPSS 19" wheels and tires. About 4mm tread left. 26 psi.

I'm having major traction issues. I had to let out if the throttle on my first attempt because the car was getting sideways. As soon as I did the car seemed to go into "neutral" and wouldn't accelerate. A few seconds later power came back on and right back to tire spinning. Seems like I can't get traction, even at speed. Are my tires just that bad? What am I doing wrong?

MPSS aren't known for their traction especially with a tune. Depending on your driving style/requirements (daily, weekend/track, etc.) I would recommend the MPS4S for great traction and daily driveability or the Toyo R888 if you want a little more traction with the trade-off being noise and shorter lifespan. Both are great tires and will significantly improve traction especially in the lower gears. I would also recommend playing with the "boost by gear" option in BM3 for 1st and 2nd gears (turn the boost down a bit).

When replacing tires also consider going to 265/35/19 & 285/35/19.