DIY: KW HAS Kit

[Appeltje]

M4 has been dropped and must say it was quit an easy job.

With respect to the strut bar....there is no need to unbolt this. I left everything on....disconnected the EDC sensor and removed the center nut in the strut hat which holds the piston. After that I've used a spring compressor....2 min job to install.....and removed the complete assembly from the hub. Complete installation took me approximately 4 hours including lunch

[ninekrpm]

Very helpful thread...installed my coilover setup today; will be doing ride height and CB tomorrow.

Thank you very much for the summary...



Anyone know the TQ settings for the aluminum and carbon strut braces?

[Hass516]

Great DIY!! Thank you. This helped me install my HAS!

[Violat0rX]

Is there an alternative method for getting the collars on the OEM struts? Is this how a shop would do it as well?

[dzvero]

Originally Posted by JNoSol

LOL. That's a good way to break bolt heads or having your suspension fall apart doing 150mph speed runs. Always use a torque wrench, especially high performance cars.

I found these specs from the M3 forum (1MEAN_M3):
FRONT:
- Strut tower nut: 25 ft-lb
- Strut pinch bolt: 60 ft-lb
- Strut to swaybar endlink: 44 ft-lb
- Brake caliper to steering knuckle: 81 ft-lb

REAR:
- Upper shock mount nuts: 21 ft-lb
- Lower shock to trailing arm bolt: 74 ft-lb

Original source: Bentley

Summoning old thread . I also trust my sense and exp. While I dont do other cars then mine I still feel comfortable doing it. My rule is tighten them until they break and turn them back 3/4
Anyway it is very good and helped me to remove my rear strut

[GulfstreamDriver]

Does anybody know what the actual distance should be or what you guys have on your car between the bottom of the sleeve to the top of the strut in the front? see attached photo for reference.. The reason why I ask is because my car is currently on the highest setting and its sitting about an inch lower in the front then what I previously had. KW HAS stated the most conservative setting offers about a .5 inch drop, mines is over a half a inch lower and I think this is the problem. Also can the strut performance be affected with the sleeve over being pressed to low, excessive squeezing force being applied against the strut?

[k-lo]

How do I get the rear spring to dismount without removing the PITA lower control arm bolt? I know how PITA it is because I did it before in my E92. Does standing on it work?

[The Choosey begger]

Originally Posted by k-lo

How do I get the rear spring to dismount without removing the PITA lower control arm bolt? I know how PITA it is because I did it before in my E92. Does standing on it work?

You want to remove the camber bolt first then the 18mm bolt that holds the shock, then it's a breeze. If you remove the shock bolt first, you'll put too much pressure or the camber bolt.

[ferrarif1]

Here is a good video that shows the install process for springs on the F80/F82, there will be more steps for HAS:

[ferrarif1]

MasterC17 Thanks for posting this. After installing my m-performance springs (based on kw design) this past weekend I have a couple of comments/questions:

On the rear shock, have you had any issues with the plastic stone shield sliding down the shock shaft? The OEM bump stop has a larger diameter with an interference fit to the upper shock mount that is lost with the smaller diameter bump stop.

On your front strut, is there a reason you did not install the plastic cap that holds down the dust boot?

Thanks in advance!

[ZAGA_M3]

What is the reason to mark where the sway bar lines up in the front strut? I had mine installed at a shop and have Chassis malfunction error and trying to figure out what could have gone wrong.

[ferrarif1]

Originally Posted by gassian

What is the reason to mark where the sway bar lines up in the front strut? I had mine installed at a shop and have Chassis malfunction error and trying to figure out what could have gone wrong.

On the kw kit, the sway bar mounting tab needs to be in the same place as the original on the shock. It's possible to rotate this 360 deg around the shock before pressing on.

The MP springs include a special tool for pressing that lines up the sway bar tab so marking is not necessary.

It should be pretty obvious if the sway bar tab is significantly out of alignment.

[ferrarif1]

Double post due to mobile app, mods please delete

[Chris N]

I am in the middle of my installation. I mis-marked the KW saddle seating reference mark on the front strut. Are there any other indicators to know for sure that it is completely seated. I have pounded it down but want to know for sure.

[R0ME0]

I just got my HAS today. Thanks for putting this together this will be most helpful. Question for those of you who have the HAS installed. I noticed the rear doesn't have a locking nut below the adjustment collar. Has anyone had issues or concerns with the height adjustment sleeve moving out of place for the set ride height when driving or overtime due to this design?

[BRUNBERG]

Sorry to resurect an old thread. Any way of getting the pics?
Looking to install KW V3 to my M4 this Saturday.

[ChizanF82]

Does anyone in this forum know how to get around this http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...psy9x726i3.jpg so that you can see the pics?

[slicktope90m3]

Originally Posted by MasterC17

First off, this is a bit of PITA, you need some special tools, I HIGHLY recommend a lift, and you'll need an impact gun. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. You'll find out why later. To start, put the car on the lift (or ramps, if you so desire). Next, remove all four wheels. I started with the rear because they are easier.



First things first, remove the lower bolt on the rear strut (18mm).



Next, remove the three e-torx bolts from the top of the rear strut.



Now, you can remove the rear strut by compressing it down, and pulling it out. If you have EDC, be careful of the connector!



EDC Only: Remove the connector, just pull straight up and out.



Now, remove the rear spring. It will take some screwing around to get it out, but slide it through the hole in the lower control arm.

Next, we have to pull the old bump stop off the strut. Here's where you need the impact gun to remove the top strut hat. Can't remember what size the nut is, but it's a 12-point. Remove it. Disconnect the old bump stop from the plastic shroud, and to install the new bump stop use glass cleaner (or the like) as lube to make it easier to press in. Impact the strut hat back on.



The next course of action is to install the new spring assembly. Make sure you remove ALL components that were used by the old spring. Also, for the purposes of installation put the adjuster to full low. From top to bottom - adjuster, spring, adapter, helper spring, lower pad. To install it you will have to place the bottom portion in first. Now you're going to need to use some back strength to get the helper spring to compress far enough to slide the adjuster into the hole. It's not easy.



Alright, we got the spring assembly in, next up is the strut with the new bump stop. Pre-assemble the strut assembly with both top mounts already together with the gaskets, this makes it a lot easier. Compress the strut fully, and quickly pop the bottom into place, and slide the top into place. If EDC, be very careful of the connector and don't forget to plug it in! Once you finally get it all lined up, tighten the e-torx bolts on the top, and the 18mm bolt on the bottom.





Congratulations, one rear is done! Now do the other side.




Okay, rear's aren't so bad, right? Now for the fronts (start with left front).



First, remove the microfilter cover thingys. Turn the three 10mm nuts, and remove the plastic rivet. Now you have to remove the OH SO AWESOME AND LOVELY carbon strut brace. Eight 13mm bolts, and one 10mm bolt (connects to coolant expansion tank).



Now, remove the rubber cover over the strut hat. Two plastic rivets. Next, we have to remove the three e-torx bolts.



EDC Only: Now that those are out, remove the EDC connector the same way you did on the rears.



Next, let's move to the bottom. Disconnect ALL the connectors down here from the little holders, and don't forget about the headlight leveling sensor!!! Wheel speed sensor, brake pad wear sensor, make them long. Strut connector, disconnect it.




Now, disconnect the 16mm nut holding the sway bar link on, impact gun is your friend again.



Now, go back to the top of the car. Remove the three 13mm nuts still holding the strut in.

Back to the bottom, disconnect the 16mm bolt holding the strut in place. Swing the strut out away from the car. Make sure you don't strain any lines/wires (keep the steering wheel straight at this point).




Now, pull the strut out of the car. You'll need to use something to pry apart the strut...holder...on the wheel hub. Congrats, your front strut is out of the car.



Remember removing the strut hat on the rear, well it's the same on the front (although deeper, make sure you get a deep set).



Put the strut in a vice (sounds silly, found it to be the best solution). Hold it by the piston, but make sure you use a microfiber towel so it doesn't damage it and don't go too tight. Next, remove the strut sensor thing, e-torx. DON'T FORGET TO MARK (USE A SHARPIE) WHERE THE SWAY BAR LINK LINES UP.



Next, lube up the area around the lower spring mount, and prepare to smash. No seriously, use a hammer, hit the lower spring mount down (or up I guess). Hit it in multiple places equally. After a minute it will fall off.




Now, measure three inches down from the little lip on the strut, put it in line with where you marked the sway bar link.



Now, carefully slide (the correct side, left in this case) new KW spring mount down over the strut. Make sure to line it up with the sway bar link you previously marked (you didn't forget, did you?). Now, this is pretty funny. Use the old spring mount as a sort of "press" and smash down (with your hammer again) the old spring mount to push the KW mount down until it lines up with the second sharpie marking you made (did you forget that one too?).




Next, install the new bump stop.



Now, install the new spring with the old strut cover thing.



Installation of your new strut/spring setup is the opposite of removal.



Use a jack to help push it back up.



Awesome, you are three quarters of the way there! Logic says that the right side will be the same as the left right? WRONG. BMW said f*ck you, and put one of the right side strut bolts RIGHT below the aluminum body brace thing. Loosen all the bolts on the left side. Remove the two GIANT bolts in the middle. They are hidden under two covers that pop right out. Remove all bolts on the right side. BTW, this is why you disconnected the battery. See that positive terminal RIGHT next to the aforementioned strut bolt. Yes, it is evil.




From there on, the right side is the same as the left. Repeat previous steps.

Congratulations, you are all done and your car is officially STANCENATIONBRO.





P.S. Without spacers you'll probably have fitment issue up front if you're dropped all the way. The wheel will most likely hit the adjuster. Adjust up, sorry.

So, that's all. It could be written better. I probably forgot something. I could have taken more pictures, but I did it alone. I'm tired.

Anyway we can get the pictures too work ?

[AchtungF80]

I am trying to do this a bit differently (easier) by removing the camber bolt to allow the rear control arm to swing down to release the spring. This is from the Salt City Euros DIY video.

My problem is the camber bolt seems to be stuck despite jacking from the control arm at different heights to release tension on it. The nut is removed but the bolt will not release.

[maniz]

Originally Posted by ChizanF82

Does anyone in this forum know how to get around this http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...psy9x726i3.jpg so that you can see the pics?

Just copy the URL for each image from OP's post and paste it into a new window, you will see the image on the photobucket site.

[Bluesun]

I was planning on doing this today, but all of the images on this post are missing, and the video I was referencing is suddenly unavailable.

Wtf is going on...

[kdu3]

I’m in the same boat! Seems like the only two good tutorials are down.