Rear CV axel stuck in wheel hub

[Gloggman]

Perhaps someone has had same problem where CV axel is frozen in wheel hub on F80 (M4).
I have used a hub puller (actually an "axel pusher") to try to push axel out of wheel hub but it's not moving and I'm afraid to break the wheel hub with all the force I'm putting on lug nut threaded tabs trying to push axel out.

If I heat up wheel hub up I'm concerned I will damage wheel bearing.

I assume I do not need to remove the four bolts holding wheel hub to knuckle and axel should just push out after removing the 36mm axel nut?
(The CV joint is in the way of removing bolts)

Any suggestions or do I just need more force pushing axel out?

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
-JM

[ninekrpm]

Just went through this saga…I spent $400 on tools (pullers, pushers, impact, air hammer, watched over 5 hours of videos, etc) and the stupid thing never popped out.

I don’t understand why so stubborn at only 35K miles…and in SoCal weather

Anyhow, I am sure there is anyway for more mechanically inclined…I was tired of wasting time and money and really had no way of tacking it to a mechanic at this time; since I was replacing the wheel bearing as well, I decided to get the carrier assembly.

Not ideal, yes…plus $800 / side…but needed to keep the build moving. Sorry, wish I had a better experience to share.

And yes, you do not need to remove the 4 bolts for the hub.

[Gloggman]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

Just went through this saga…I spent $400 on tools (pullers, pushers, impact, air hammer, watched over 5 hours of videos, etc) and the stupid thing never popped out.

I don’t understand why so stubborn at only 35K miles…and in SoCal weather

Anyhow, I am sure there is anyway for more mechanically inclined…I was tired of wasting time and money and really had no way of tacking it to a mechanic at this time; since I was replacing the wheel bearing as well, I decided to get the carrier assembly.

Not ideal, yes…plus $800 / side…but needed to keep the build moving. Sorry, wish I had a better experience to share.

And yes, you do not need to remove the 4 bolts for the hub.

I've read about trouble with other older cars having same issue with CV axel stuck/rusted to wheel hub spline when replacing rear wheel bearing. I would have thought BMW would have figured this out...
Car only has 50K miles on it and never tracked where heat could have caused it.

[ninekrpm]

hopefully you make progress and find a way....

[burnrbr]

Have you tried brute force? Like spraying penetrating oil on both sides of the spline to hub connection, putting the axle nut on backwards and flush to the end of the axle, and hitting it with a large sledgehammer? If you can’t separate them, then you’ll have to buy new ones anyway.

[1000hp]

Have you tried hitting it with your purse?

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by burnrbr

Have you tried brute force? Like spraying penetrating oil on both sides of the spline to hub connection, putting the axle nut on backwards and flush to the end of the axle, and hitting it with a large sledgehammer? If you can’t separate them, then you’ll have to buy new ones anyway.

yup...tried all that, even used a air and electric hammer.

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by 1000hp

Have you tried hitting it with your purse?

yup, wallet in my case...ended up buying new hubs/bearings

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

yup, wallet in my case...ended up buying new hubs/bearings

sometimes that's what you gotta do. Glad you were able to save the axle at least.

[burnrbr]

Originally Posted by ninekrpm

yup, wallet in my case...ended up buying new hubs/bearings

Did you end up using heat to separate them?

[Gloggman]

There was no way to press axel out!
Took knuckle off and used 20 ton press on axel (axel/cv was bad anyway...), didn't move!
Bought a used knuckle and axel with control arms assembly and tried to install new bearing. Same issue, no way to get axel out without probably destroying bearing also. So kept my finger crossed bearing was okay and installed it all. Seems okay so far with no funny bering sounds.
This is a big flaw in bmw design I think allowing this to jam. Shouldn't have to buy axel and knuckle if you need a new bearing.

Yes I tried heating up bearing hub but only with propane torch. Perhaps I needed more heat....

[ninekrpm]

Originally Posted by Gloggman

There was no way to press axel out!
Took knuckle off and used 20 ton press on axel (axel/cv was bad anyway...), didn't move!
Bought a used knuckle and axel with control arms assembly and tried to install new bearing. Same issue, no way to get axel out without probably destroying bearing also. So kept my finger crossed bearing was okay and installed it all. Seems okay so far with no funny bering sounds.
This is a big flaw in bmw design I think allowing this to jam. Shouldn't have to buy axel and knuckle if you need a new bearing.

Yes I tried heating up bearing hub but only with propane torch. Perhaps I needed more heat....

Sorry to hear...was hoping you would find a way.

[1000hp]

Originally Posted by Gloggman

There was no way to press axel out!
Took knuckle off and used 20 ton press on axel (axel/cv was bad anyway...), didn't move!
Bought a used knuckle and axel with control arms assembly and tried to install new bearing. Same issue, no way to get axel out without probably destroying bearing also. So kept my finger crossed bearing was okay and installed it all. Seems okay so far with no funny bering sounds.
This is a big flaw in bmw design I think allowing this to jam. Shouldn't have to buy axel and knuckle if you need a new bearing.

Yes I tried heating up bearing hub but only with propane torch. Perhaps I needed more heat....

That blows.
Good to know... If a rear wheel bearing fails, buy a new axle to go with it.

[MJ6]

Originally Posted by Gloggman

There was no way to press axel out!
Took knuckle off and used 20 ton press on axel (axel/cv was bad anyway...), didn't move!
Bought a used knuckle and axel with control arms assembly and tried to install new bearing. Same issue, no way to get axel out without probably destroying bearing also. So kept my finger crossed bearing was okay and installed it all. Seems okay so far with no funny bering sounds.
This is a big flaw in bmw design I think allowing this to jam. Shouldn't have to buy axel and knuckle if you need a new bearing.

Yes I tried heating up bearing hub but only with propane torch. Perhaps I needed more heat....

I feel your pain man, I literally just went through this last week. One of the wheel monkeys at a tire shop over-torqued or cross threaded one of my rear wheel bolts and fubared the hub. A hub swap quickly became a full axle swap as we encountered the same problem, my mechanic friend even took the assembly to a friend of his with a 40ton press and the sucker still wouldn't budge.
One new axle, knuckle, hub bearing, a significant amount of swearing, and bunch of money later and it's finally fixed.
It's absolutely ludicrous to have to go to such lengths for such a simple task

[ninekrpm]

OUCH!

Yup, sucks! sucks! sucks! Sorry to hear that more had to go through the same exercise...

But validates that this is a design flaw

[burnrbr]

I hope you all put some high-temp anti-seize on the axle spines before inserting it into the hub.

[Gloggman]

Well, lucked out so far.
The used Axel/Hub/knuckle I bought seem to be in good shape. (Which also would not come apart)
I wonder the dealer will tell you cost is to replace a bearing.....
Bearing hub is about $250 but if they can't get axel out it will be a $3000 job by the time you get axel and hub etc.

BTW: I was able to reset the Chassis Stabilisation warning! I read somewhere by turning steering wheel all the way LEFT-RIGHT-LEFT-RIGHT and then drive straight. I could not believe that it fixed it next time I started car.
I tried the UDB2 + "reset/clear", also tried disconnect battery overnight. Warning was still there and was just about to go have steering angle sensor re-calibrated.
Still not sure the steering wheel routine did it....