Exhaust valve noise

[Razashah96]

Originally Posted by DoNi

Any chance you can reupload the pics as they are not working anymore. Thanks

Did you find something?

[5low5]

I'm having the same problem and it's driving me nuts. Just noticed it about a month ago with no changes to car when I noticed it. There are no moving parts on the valve actuator when the rattling is happening for me. It seems to go away after car warms up but I notice it when driving next to a wall/building or in a parking garage where the sounds bounces back in my direction. So embarrassing

[jinsii]

I have the same problem, I come back when I pass through narrow streets and lowered windows.
I noticed that it happened while driving and not when stopped, is it the same for you? '

[5low5]

Yes, only while in drive. I can't replicate it by revving in neutral

[jinsii]

J'ai la même chose, très difficile à identifier.
Alors pour le moment nous sommes confinés en france...
Je verrai BMW pour leur en faire part prochainement mais cela doit venir des valves.

[jinsii]

Originally Posted by Razashah96

Could you please reupload the pictures?

Can you reupload the pictures please.

[AlpineWhiteF30]

Originally Posted by ahgil

FINALLY got this fix, as i said before, we hear the rattling is because the exhaust valve is actually moving up and down due to some free play. What I did was to add one washer and 2 o-ring to make the valve even more tighter so that when the engine start, it will not allow the valve to move up and down.

I have posted some pictures as below. Hope this will help anyone having this issue.

This is what you see when you take out the electronic valve and cover.


I got some washer, and drill to make the hole wider so that i can fit in


I than put a oring on top to act as suspension


Now the sound is gone. Happy this is working.

Too back I can’t see the pics now 🤦🏾*♂️

[TopJimmy]

Guys, it's usually your U shaped spring-clip in between flap & actuator that might need a little opening up. The clip not only turns the flapper, but it also pushes the flapper peg inward so the flap doesn't rattle (especially cold).

In the video you can also see how the spring clip gets a little twist-tension applied when the actuator is installed. He puts in one bolt, gives a little twist to line up the holes (watch the spring twist a little too) and then the other two holes line up. That's the trick...fixed my AA rattle that way.

If you don't have the paper-clip type spring and you have the round squeeze-barrel type spring maybe you can add stainless spacers on one side. Like above, the idea is to push the flap pin inward so the flapper pushes in.

[caution1010]

사진 좀 다시올려

[mynameisplayer]

Anyone with a solid fix on this? Just took my actuator off after watching a M2 fix vid - mine is different Pic is from the top of flap, with motor removed. The motor has a shaft with a slot cut into it. These is no washer to remove to increase tension.

[BzsBimmer]

If you guys are having issues with Akra like the OP, get in touch with Akra and see if still under warranty or can do something to repair.

This is an issue with the Akra V1 and had mine warrantied due to the rattling. As OP pointed out, it’s a vertical movement in the internal flap mechanism having play.

[mynameisplayer]

NVM, fixed it. Turns out the gear in the valve motor had a broken tooth...for nearly 3 years!. My rhs valve hasn't been open for that long. I think I just found 5-10% of my power that has been missing

[MetzgerMeister]

Guys, please check to ensure that this noise isn't a stone that has gotten lodged between the brake disc and dust shield on the rear wheels.

I was full sure that my exhaust valve was FUBAR but upon closer inspection it was actually a stone that had gotten lodged between the disc and dust shield on the driver's side (RHD) of my car. Given that mine is a late 2016 model, I have read that the exhaust valve issue was solved on these.

I pushed the shield back in several places and out fell a stone.

[Shubacca]

Originally Posted by mynameisplayer

NVM, fixed it. Turns out the gear in the valve motor had a broken tooth...for nearly 3 years!. My rhs valve hasn't been open for that long. I think I just found 5-10% of my power that has been missing

How did you discover this? When I removed the valve actuators I didn't see anything with "teeth".

[dgbattman]

Originally Posted by MetzgerMeister

Guys, please check to ensure that this noise isn't a stone that has gotten lodged between the brake disc and dust shield on the rear wheels.

I was full sure that my exhaust valve was FUBAR but upon closer inspection it was actually a stone that had gotten lodged between the disc and dust shield on the driver's side (RHD) of my car. Given that mine is a late 2016 model, I have read that the exhaust valve issue was solved on these.

I pushed the shield back in several places and out fell a stone.

My 2018 M2 lost preload on the clip and this happened. It’s about there again. My advice…learn how to swap it and have a few of the less than 10 buck clip on hand.

[Shubacca]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the F80/2 and F87 have the same exhaust valve mounting structure.

F87 top, F80/2 bottom. Sorry for poor picture quality.

[BzsBimmer]

What are you asking? If the actuators will fit on the M3/M4 VS the vert? The mounting plate can be different but the actuator bolts need to line up and the notch in the shaft needs to line up.

Realoem shows the same actuator PN’s

Orientation of the bracket in your two pictures doesn’t matter.

[Shubacca]

Originally Posted by BzsBimmer

What are you asking? If the actuators will fit on the M3/M4 VS the vert? The mounting plate can be different but the actuator bolts need to line up and the notch in the shaft needs to line up.

Realoem shows the same actuator PN’s

Orientation of the bracket in your two pictures doesn’t matter.

Im not asking anything. I'm saying the M3/4 doesn't have the control valve actuator clip (18307620323) as part of the valve system. So you can't get a new one a solve an exhaust valve rattle on an M3/4.

[mynameisplayer]

Correct. No clip on the M3/4 - direct connection (loose) between slot in actuator shaft and the valve. The teeth are inside the actuator - you have to MacGyver the thing open. I glued mine open after trying to fix it, as the broken tooth keeps it failing to closed position.

[Justin_b58]

Any way you can repost the photos?

[track_lemur]

Originally Posted by mynameisplayer

Anyone with a solid fix on this? Just took my actuator off after watching a M2 fix vid - mine is different Pic is from the top of flap, with motor removed. The motor has a shaft with a slot cut into it. These is no washer to remove to increase tension.

In this picture, my issue was underneath. That brown part twists 45° and comes out. Underneath, there's a spacer resting on a spring that puts upward tension. My spring was gone on one side, fallen apart from age I guess. As well, that spacer is supposed to have a slot cut out on the underside and mine was warn to look like an hourglass. I need to know find a way to replace both the spring and the spacer...

[WarMachineM3]

Originally Posted by Soul Performance Products

You have to make sure the actuator has tension/preload in order for the valve to be closed all the way. Clip/spring if worn out may cause rattling/fluttering as well. Here's a video of us installing the Actuator on one of our systems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCMM...ature=youtu.be

-Mike H

How do you preload it with the spring type coil? It's kind of hard to see what you are doing in the video, but exactly is going on?