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      01-27-2020, 08:10 PM   #23
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I just had the insane performance crank hub installed on my M4 and now I feel confident that I can drive the car and not have to worry about spinning my crank hub!
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      01-27-2020, 08:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlownOne View Post
Vtt v2 spline lock crank hub and crank bolt capture kit for complete fix. This is the route I went and it has held up fine to lots of abuse on e85/meth at 700whp
+1 I had mine done a few weeks ago and it's solid so far I'll be posting my review in a few days.
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      01-27-2020, 09:46 PM   #25
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What are the costs with the part and install?
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      01-28-2020, 03:44 AM   #26
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ignore the fan boys on here who seem to crawl out of the wood work at the sniff of a VTT Post lol

VTT V2 appears to be fine and will be the cheaper option.

Gintani appears to be the best option but also the most expensive

insane performance is a knock off of the old MAX PSI

MAX PSI is no longer being sold... i still dont believe the reason that keeps getting thrown about as "cost"... either way if you like the look of the max psi one then its now being resold as SSR hub.
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      01-28-2020, 04:06 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sicck_f82 View Post
What are the costs with the part and install?
I got a few quotes when I was shopping around.

VTT was the cheapest, around $2200 I think with parts and labor installed at their shop.

Gintani was the 2nd cheapest, about $3500 installed at Gintani.

MaxPSI was the most expensive at around $4000 installed at SSR Performance.

I choose the MaxPSI because that's what all the turbo manufacturers seem to recommend (Kratos,Pure Turbos ect) and all the highest HP F8x all run them with zero issues, I also only trust SSR Performance to touch my car.
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      01-28-2020, 04:23 AM   #28
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Why not just avoid aggressive downshifts?

From what I have read it’s the differential in speed during an aggressive downshift so power has no effect on the playing field here????

When strengthening this part where is the next weak link and how much is that to repair?
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      01-28-2020, 04:28 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smee View Post
ignore the fan boys on here who seem to crawl out of the wood work at the sniff of a VTT Post lol

VTT V2 appears to be fine and will be the cheaper option.

Gintani appears to be the best option but also the most expensive

insane performance is a knock off of the old MAX PSI

MAX PSI is no longer being sold... i still dont believe the reason that keeps getting thrown about as "cost"... either way if you like the look of the max psi one then its now being resold as SSR hub.
I don't think anybody is being a fanboy, just watching out for the OP that's all. At the end of the day, I would just sleep better at night knowing my hub is "pinned" to the crank and not relying on blind faith the "splines" will bite and hold. There's also no way to confirm they "locked" correctly during installation without removing the VTT hub and checking for physical marks in the crank snout. If they didn't bite, the spin will probably be even more catastrophic for the engine compared to the stock hub, at least with the stock hub they have friction washers to try and mitigate against a severe spin.

Remember, VTT claimed the V1 broke their test rig yet it slipped and destroyed some motors, also the sprocket teeth on them were wearing at a very alarming rate for just a couple thousand miles. Hundreds of owners of V1s are now at risk of accelerated teeth wear plus full-on slip. Response from VTT has been pretty bad, pretty much, "Oops, our bad, we can sell you a "better version" but you still need to pay for labor to remove and replace." IMHO if I were a VTT V1 owner, I would feel even less safe having it in than with the stock hub.

When you're spending thousands for a crank hub upgrade, just spend an extra few hundred for a pinned version. Not a place to cheap out for peace of mind.
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      01-28-2020, 07:09 AM   #30
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I've been running e85 for almost 10k miles with no hub fix and no issues. But I'm also 6 spd. Seems like this happens more to DCT than manuals.
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      01-28-2020, 07:12 AM   #31
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I spun my hub 1 hour after doing downpipes and bm3 stage 2 lol. I went with the insane performance hub no issues so far.
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      01-28-2020, 08:28 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoNufff View Post
I've been running e85 for almost 10k miles with no hub fix and no issues. But I'm also 6 spd. Seems like this happens more to DCT than manuals.
you should get one very soon
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      01-28-2020, 08:45 AM   #33
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Splines are the way to transmit torque. We think our spline lock and CBC used in combo are the best solution on the market, check it:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1621073
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      01-28-2020, 08:52 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech View Post
Splines are the way to transmit torque. We think our spline lock and CBC used in combo are the best solution on the market, check it:

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1621073
Why is a CBC needed if the splines wont slip?
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      01-28-2020, 09:37 AM   #35
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MAXPSI is the route I am going; just need to take it to get installed now. I haven't see a pinned hub slip so why even consider a different design...
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      01-28-2020, 09:54 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKno View Post
That seems to be the consensus.

I'd really like to keep the car, and if a crank hub fix removes the time bomb fuse, that may be the route I go.

Really interested to hear if anyone has spun a crank hub a second time after it was repaired. I remember reading that BMW may have released some updated parts like a new friction disc or something like that.
If I can recall, bedplate and friction disk was updated in 2018.
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      01-28-2020, 12:42 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSXiMUS View Post
I got a few quotes when I was shopping around.

VTT was the cheapest, around $2200 I think with parts and labor installed at their shop.

Gintani was the 2nd cheapest, about $3500 installed at Gintani.

MaxPSI was the most expensive at around $4000 installed at SSR Performance.

I choose the MaxPSI because that's what all the turbo manufacturers seem to recommend (Kratos,Pure Turbos ect) and all the highest HP F8x all run them with zero issues, I also only trust SSR Performance to touch my car.
I wonder what Gintani would be installed at SSR.
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      01-28-2020, 01:59 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayKno View Post
Hey guys, so it happened to me.

2015 M4 DCT with custom e85 tune.

The car is in the shop now for repairs.

I'm wondering what everyone's opinion is on the best fix. MaxPSI?

Is the chance of spinning it again increased after it has been repaired using stock parts? Did BMW release new parts that may reduce the chances of it happening again?

Basically I'm either going to sell the car or install a permanent fix, just trying to decide what's best since I'd really like to keep the car, but don't really like the idea of spending 4-5k for a crank hub fix unless I'm positive it will prevent this from happening in the future and not create any new issues.
It's one thing to take a chance with original hub but now that you spun, why would you install another oem hub? You're already in there, just upgrade to MaxPSI.

Question, so no damage at all? Did you tow the car right away?
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      01-28-2020, 02:34 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theweebabySeamus View Post
Yeah, why guys still go e85 without a crank hub fix at this point is beyond me.
I just.. I can't even--Its almost hard to believe. I cant help but roll my eyes at their logic.

Let me just push my engine and stock turbos to they maximum potential and hope the weakest link doesn't break.
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      01-28-2020, 05:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
This is sad, seems like E85 = SCH
2015 M4 (sold) + 2018 M3 ZCP = no SCH

Both cars modded and run very hard by my young son! Both DCT.
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      01-28-2020, 06:05 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parabmw View Post
Why is a CBC needed if the splines wont slip?
There are 2 main mechanisms of slipped crank hub; one is actual slippage due to inferior design, the other is the bolt vibrating loose and losing the clamping force. Spline lock takes care of the torque holding capacity of the assembly, CBC is a fastener retention device to stop anything from backing out.

Chris
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      01-28-2020, 06:24 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark5092 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
This is sad, seems like E85 = SCH
2015 M4 (sold) + 2018 M3 ZCP = no SCH

Both cars modded and run very hard by my young son! Both DCT.
Was he running e85?
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      01-28-2020, 06:35 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sna66 View Post
Was he running e85?
No
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      01-31-2020, 09:25 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smee View Post
ignore the fan boys on here who seem to crawl out of the wood work at the sniff of a VTT Post lol

VTT V2 appears to be fine and will be the cheaper option.

Gintani appears to be the best option but also the most expensive

insane performance is a knock off of the old MAX PSI

MAX PSI is no longer being sold... i still dont believe the reason that keeps getting thrown about as "cost"... either way if you like the look of the max psi one then its now being resold as SSR hub.
Not sure if you have been following this thread..

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1679594
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