Impressions of MP-HAS versus OEM on Base model

[TopJimmy]

Hi BimmerPosters,

I got so tired of the huge front tire gap on my F80 Base model...you could easily fit a shoe in there. Stock gives plenty of clearance with my 19in BBS CI-Rs for Philly potholes, but the look is all wrong. I also wanted to get the suspension one notch softer than it was, for a little less road feel during DD and a little better dig for a drag launch.

I did lots of research on how I might use coding to change damper settings (guys recommended CS) or use drop springs. My Base model didn't have the Sport (ZCP/CS) springs so coding didn't help (no change). I bought a set of Eibach V1 to keep from dropping too much (potholes and sh!tty roads in PA) but then heard it would make my ride more firm.

Then I got a great deal on a set of RE-71Rs with 305s in the back. Got hooked on Dragy and 1/4mi digs. Need height adjustability to keep rear tires square to road, and maybe fit drag radials someday. I pinged Tommy_L about picking KW or MP for HAS and he said MP is softer than KW, but you pay M-tax.

GotBMWparts had a sale and I picked up the MP-HAS kit for about $1200 including the parts kit and shipped. Hid it from the wife for 2 weeks and got it installed in the driveway over the last 2 days (she thought it was brakes).

DIY INSTALL HINTS: follow Tommy_L's DIY Video but make these changes.

For rears...
Remove shocks first. This protects the shock sensor. Don't let the spring bang the shock when you lower the arm, pad spring with a rag. Remove spring after shock. Install springs first, then shocks.
To keep rear upper spring seat from spinning during adjustment remove spin collars, drill 1/8in hole in seat flare, place in car, mark hole with pen, remove, drill hole in undercarriage, insert seat, screw in one steel screw to pin seat to undercarriage, spin blue collar on all the way up to get most clearance for spring insertion.
Clean the lower control arm cup, lots of rocks and crud where the rubber spring seat goes. Put the rubber seat in first (align nipple in hole) then put the spring on top and use finger to feel it in the groove against the stop (flashlight helps). Use wood bar between lower spindle and lower control arm to pry open and insert spring coupler and helper spring.
Use jack to help align shock bolt, then CAREFULLY use small crowbar to align spindle bushings into the lower control arm so the bolt hole lines up. Don't just bang in the bolts with a hammer, it'll shear the threads off when pushing through. When things line up a gentle tap will push it through. Turn the camber bolt and washer to help get into the adjuster slot, then align your sharpie camber marks and tighten the bolt.
Tommy is right that you need an impacter to remove the rear top shock nut. The Schwaben 18mm Tool doesn't fit there and I needed my smaller 3/8 drive socket. Just hold the shock rod with your hand and the impacter gets it off and back on good (hand thread that nut first!). I used a little Ryobi impacter, Tommy has a giant Ingersoll-Rand one.

Up front... the front springs and rubber boots sit in a plastic spin-collar turret with a bunch of ball bearings inside. After you remove the stock spring DON'T wonder what it is and pull on the collar...it comes off (yeah I did)...and it seems that only the grease keeps it stuck. Lucky I got mine back on. If it fell out I'd be F'd!
Not a bad idea to remove the front shock sensors before doing the removal work...it's just one e-torx, mark which side it's from, and put in a safe place. Bang one and you get a chassis error. BIG HINT: like in Tommy's vid you can use a hammer to tap off the old spring perches but DONT BOTHER trying to hammer them back on...takes HOURS...just go to a garage with a press and you're done in one hour. This is why my job took two days.
Don't screw in the Allen bolt until you finish playing with front adjustment (but tighten before you go driving, that spin collar lets your springs turn if you don't). To adjust fronts just turn springs....easy. Only tighten the Allen a tiny bit so you don't mash your threads but still hold firmly. I went a quarter turn after I felt threads. Remember you'll probably re-adjust after a week of settling.

I had a real hard time getting the sensor connectors to stay clipped. It wasn't that I didn't push the connectors together good...it was that the little retainer clip stayed pushed and didn't catch the tang. Needed to lift up with a thumbnail while connecting so the tang caught the thumb clip lever. Happened on 3 of my connectors...damn clips.

——Driving Impressions——
Exactly what I was looking for. The MP-HAS is about 1 step softer than stock. To me (and mostly for the wife) comfort mode before was still too stiff. Maybe comfortable on a track but not for Daily. Comfort now feels right, Sport feels like Comfort was, and Plus feels like Sport was. When driving if you quickly steer zigzag there is no sway. Handling is still like stock.

I feel the MP-HAS was a good choice for cost/benefit especially if you go DIY and save install money. I still think I should have a dealership alignment done to check my work and make sure my tires wear properly.

Pix before and after. Still waiting for new shocks to settle before I dial in the front drop.
Before- (side view) OEM Non-ZCP with Conti 5P
After- (diagonal shots) MP-HAS on Non-ZCP with RE71R

[TopJimmy]

After things have settled for a few months. No problems either.

[9M71]

Great write up. Sorry if I missed it but what suspension coding are you on now, lowered with MPHAS?

I'm also base + mphas. Debating on trying out some new edc settings.

[TopJimmy]

When I tried coding my Base dampers softer they went full stiff. This was with Benvo at BPM. Alex at Alpine said leave it alone. You could also swap in a set of ZCP/CS dampers which could be coded. I was going for a softer ride, so swapping in the Sport dampers wasn't a real option for me. I'm not track, just street and digs, so MP works really good for me.

[mord4]

Thanks for the writeup, I'm also looking for a new lowering spring and MP HAS has my eye. Similar setup, 2018 F82 Base 6MT. Do not track but looking for a delicate drop, and OEM quality. It is interesting to me that M Performance HAS is softer than the regular spring though...

[horsepower_and_hounds]

The MP HAS shoaled have been a slight upgrade in spring rates not backwards. It is supposed to give you adjustable ride heights and like a 1/2 step increase on the stiffness across the board.... comfort.5, sport.5, sport+.e etc. I was considering these but want to go slightly forward not backwards. I am intrigued to research more now....

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds

The MP HAS shoaled have been a slight upgrade in spring rates not backwards. It is supposed to give you adjustable ride heights and like a 1/2 step increase on the stiffness across the board.... comfort.5, sport.5, sport+.e etc. I was considering these but want to go slightly forward not backwards. I am intrigued to research more now....

Hounds,
I did a bunch of research and just got myself confused. Then I remembered that Tommy L tried just about everything, so I asked him directly. He said MP was 1 notch softer than OEM Springs, and KW-HAS was 1 notch stiffer. I went with MP, even followed Tommy's DIY vid, and he was right. I can tell because my wife said comfort feels softer now, and she's always right.
-Jimmy

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

Hounds,
I did a bunch of research and just got myself confused. Then I remembered that Tommy L tried just about everything, so I asked him directly. He said MP was 1 notch softer than OEM Springs, and KW-HAS was 1 notch stiffer. I went with MP, even followed Tommy's DIY vid, and he was right. I can tell because my wife said comfort feels softer now, and she's always right.
-Jimmy

Ok thanks...then I need to go KW HAS

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds

Ok thanks...then I need to go KW HAS

KW sometimes needs spacers in front. If you have 19x9.5ET25 fronts then you might need a 5mm or more to get low or for round sidewalls. I don't have spacers on now but do have a set of 3mm if I want to go lower.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

KW sometimes needs spacers in front. If you have 19x9.5ET25 fronts then you might need a 5mm or more to get low or for round sidewalls. I don't have spacers on now but do have a set of 3mm if I want to go lower.

Should not need them if I get V2 set. I am running 9.5 et22 265/35 in front

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds

Should not need them if I get V2 set. I am running 9.5 et22 265/35 in front

Exactly right. I just ordered new SV107s and Jimmy told me to get 19x9.5ET20 for no clearance issues and flush fit, and I also run 265/35.

[mfurse]

Did your car get an iStep update as they fitted the MP HAS or was it literally just the springs being fitted?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by mfurse

Did your car get an iStep update as they fitted the MP HAS or was it literally just the springs being fitted?

Just new springs, no computer changes needed.

[dwz]

From the pics looks like it only drops on front a little bit? If so probably that's what I need as well since NJ roads are just horrible

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by dwz

From the pics looks like it only drops on front a little bit? If so probably that's what I need as well since NJ roads are just horrible

I could drop more but I'm in the Philly-KoP area and roads can be crap. No 20s or low drop for me... I do have a set of 3mm spacers on the bench if I wanted to drop more. Only the one passenger spring nut would rub without the spacer.