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      12-27-2020, 11:53 PM   #1
FaRKle!
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Rear Dust Shield Removal, Not as Bad as You've Heard

When I installed my Essex/AP Racing rear brake kit I removed the rear dust shield like Essex/AP Racing recommend you do. I know there are a few other people on here that have done that too, and I also know that there are others out there that haven't even considered it because of the horror stories they've heard about the difficulty, or even seen in other videos where people have completely hacked up and made a mess of things.

Well, I filmed how to do it (skip to 15:53 in the video), and it's not that bad. Don't let this be a mental barrier to you putting on a brake kit you've been thinking about!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Index
0:00 Intro
0:13 Prep work
0:57 Removing the wheels
1:22 Brake fluid reservoir access
2:27 Front caliper removal
4:38 Front rotor removal
5:05 Front dust shield removal
5:25 Front brake hose removal
6:29 Front AP caliper bracket installation
7:12 Front AP rotor installation
7:41 Front AP caliper installation
8:44 Front Spiegler brake hose installation
9:39 Front AP pads installation
11:28 Securing the Spiegler brake hose
13:11 Rear caliper removal
15:28 Rear rotor removal
15:53 Rear dust shield removal
18:53 Rear brake hose removal
19:38 Rear AP caliper bracket installation
20:52 Rear AP rotor installation
21:36 Rear AP caliper installation
22:38 Rear Spiegler brake hose installation
24:10 Rear AP pads installation
25:33 Securing rear wires
25:51 Bleeding the brake system
28:42 Closing up engine bay covers
29:17 Wheels installation
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      12-28-2020, 12:49 AM   #2
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I can honestly say this is one of the best DIY videos I've ever watched! Great attention to detail and no fumbling around with the install. Looking forward to seeing more fire content from you, sir!
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      12-28-2020, 02:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedPiston View Post
I can honestly say this is one of the best DIY videos I've ever watched! Great attention to detail and no fumbling around with the install. Looking forward to seeing more fire content from you, sir!
Agreed, the whole video is worth watching for anyone working on the F8X platform brakes. Some of the particularly helpful hints which I've had to learn over time are keeping pressure on the brake pedal, bungee cord, and zip-tying the mount. Great job FaRKle!
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      12-28-2020, 05:04 PM   #4
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I amazed that your hubs and shields look as clean as they do. I does look like you have to bust out some metal cutting tools to remove the rear dust shields in the end I decided to keep mine on as I have some cooling ducts installed.
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      12-28-2020, 05:37 PM   #5
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Really helpful video.
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      12-28-2020, 06:06 PM   #6
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I am also very surprised that AP has the bleed valve at the bottom as opposed to the top of the caliper.
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      12-28-2020, 10:55 PM   #7
FaRKle!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedPiston View Post
I can honestly say this is one of the best DIY videos I've ever watched! Great attention to detail and no fumbling around with the install. Looking forward to seeing more fire content from you, sir!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvq View Post
Agreed, the whole video is worth watching for anyone working on the F8X platform brakes. Some of the particularly helpful hints which I've had to learn over time are keeping pressure on the brake pedal, bungee cord, and zip-tying the mount. Great job FaRKle!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Because View Post
Really helpful video.
Thanks guys! It's my goal to make content as helpful as possible and enable people to DIY (or at least understand the jobs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by drroc View Post
I amazed that your hubs and shields look as clean as they do. I does look like you have to bust out some metal cutting tools to remove the rear dust shields in the end I decided to keep mine on as I have some cooling ducts installed.
Haha, well the car was really new when I took off those brakes (like 3-400mi).

Quote:
Originally Posted by drroc View Post
I am also very surprised that AP has the bleed valve at the bottom as opposed to the top of the caliper.
They have one bleed screw at the bottom and one at the top. AP instructs to bleed the bottom one first.
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      12-29-2020, 02:43 PM   #8
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FaRKle! - Did you notice a big improvement between the two brake setups?
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      12-29-2020, 10:31 PM   #9
FaRKle!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Because View Post
FaRKle! - Did you notice a big improvement between the two brake setups?
I haven't tracked the car yet (just approaching the break in service), but on the street you're really not going to notice much. I expect on the track the main difference is not having to worry about cooking the brakes, since the brake torque/"stopping power" isn't designed to be any higher with this kit.

That said, with this kit and the DS2500, the pedal feels more gradual and natural on the street than the stock M2C brakes, which others have described as "touchy." I understand where they're coming from.
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      12-31-2020, 12:08 AM   #10
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Very solid info, thanks! Good to know how to get that rear shield off, as I am expecting my bbk next month.
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      01-07-2021, 06:43 PM   #11
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Great video (again)

Yes, this is yet another great Farkle video. I have done this install as well, and it works as described in the video. I did have to cut the splash guard as explained, and I agree that it is not difficult to do other than that it is not that easy to access, and when you cut, you don't quite see exactly where you cut. OTOH, it is not a precision cut that needs to be made. I now have the M2 CS brakes on my 2018 M3, and the 2018 M3 calipers and 370 and 345 mm Zimmermann rotors on my 328D xDrive. Both upgrades are certainly worth it.
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      08-12-2021, 07:50 AM   #12
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Very nice video, super detailed and easy to follow…
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      08-12-2021, 09:24 AM   #13
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Removing the dust shield at the front is definitely not an issue. Just need to add a small metal plate to protect a tire rod that is close to the rotor (can use the same bolt which attached the dust shield).
For the rear the situation is different because there are more rubber parts close to the rotor which will get damaged if not protected.
On my case I decided to keep the dust shield. Tested at different tracks including WG and to be honest dont see need to remove them as brake temp and pad wear are really good.
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      08-20-2021, 10:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4forum View Post
For the rear the situation is different because there are more rubber parts close to the rotor which will get damaged if not protected.
This
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      08-23-2021, 10:44 AM   #15
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This
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