M3/M4 CS owners - Impressions?

[Colinv6]

On another note, has BMW used OLED for tail lights on any other models since? 7 series for example?


I find it really odd that they used these very expensive and cool lights for 2 of their most focused 4 series models and nothing else....

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by Colinv6

Seriously you guys rely on comfort access that much?!

It’s literally one click on a key fob. I don’t even take it out of my pocket to unlock the car.

For me, I just struggled to get used to not have it. After 10+ years of all of our cars having it, I still struggle to "unlearn". It is however not a deal breaker nor do I consider retrofitting it.

[minn19]

Originally Posted by CSBM5

It's some bizarre marketing plan I suppose since comfort access total weight is minuscule -- door handle weights are the same, probably less than 1/4 lb in wiring, a small module and two antennas; perhaps they saved 1.5 lbs.

I mostly agree, but like any very large company, I'm guessing there were a ton of people involved. By the time the final specs were determined it passed through a bunch of managers sign offs etc etc so it is what it is.

I personally would've given up the full leather and kept the comfort access. But, if we want a la cart options like Porsche the prices will go up.

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

For me, I just struggled to get used to not have it. After 10+ years of all of our cars having it, I still struggle to "unlearn". It is however not a deal breaker nor do I consider retrofitting it.

^This and unlike another poster said all of my BMWs comfort access have worked 99% of the time. Even in the dead of winter etc.

[CSBM5]

Originally Posted by minn19

...and unlike another poster said all of my BMWs comfort access have worked 99% of the time. Even in the dead of winter etc.

Same here. We've had BMW comfort access for 13+ years across four different cars, and have never experienced a failure or problem.

[EricSMG]

Originally Posted by CSBM5

Same here. We've had BMW comfort access for 13+ years across four different cars, and have never experienced a failure or problem.

It seemed to be very particular about how I grabbed the handle. I was able to grab it in a way that would not trigger CA and since it was my first CA car I was used to not having it. And then completely lost all interest in it.

So, to be fair, it was probably just user error as I hadn't 'trained' my brain/hand to do exactly what it wanted. In either case it was actually a nuisance for me but I'm generally a minimalist and don't bother much with 'niceties' like that. Even the BT connection (streaming music) was inconsistent for both my wife and I - about 50% of the time it wouldn't connect without fussing with it. Very annoying. Would much rather have an old school aux cable if I'm honest - that works 100% of the time the first time.

I actually think it's cool that the CS doesn't have CA on principle.

[spool twice]

so, I may have stumbled upon an alternative launch control method that fully utilizes the benefits of launch control, but without the excessive wheelspin. I'll verify on Dragy first with a 60ft and 330ft time (time-to-distance will show which is the more effective launch method over time-to-speed measures). If I can quantify the data, I'll post what I did differently, but the car hooks-n-goes launching at higher than launch control RPMs.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by spool twice

so, I may have stumbled upon an alternative launch control method that fully utilizes the benefits of launch control, but without the excessive wheelspin. I'll verify on Dragy first with a 60ft and 330ft time (time-to-distance will show which is the more effective launch method over time-to-speed measures). If I can quantify the data, I'll post what I did differently, but the car hooks-n-goes launching at higher than launch control RPMs.

You mean by lowering the RPM with the left scroll buttons?

[spool twice]

no, not that method, that only allows you to lower it to 3,000rpm.

It's hard to explain, and probably not worth trying the method if you don't care about squeezing every last tenth out though as it requires a pretty quick foot work.

Basically when I do is this:
-engage launch control, checkered flag
-back off the throttle to let the revs drop to around 2,200rpm
-you have to do the above quick enough so that it doesn't get out of launch control mode
-release the brake while you slam on the gas
-RPM's will release closer to 4,500rpm in a "feathered" manner (like someone modulating the clutch slip with a traditional manual transmission)

no wheelspin in 1st or second gears, just a nice hook-up. My Dragy results are as follows (with a 1ft rollout) in 0-60mph:

with the alternative launch method = 3.94 seconds
using the standard launch control = 4.16 seconds

60ft times are as follows:
2.12 and 2.19

outside conditions, 82*F, 12-24ft. above sea level, 1,803ft density altitude (DA), 7/8th tank of gas (almost full).

I'll try it more with days to come, I did try to modulate the throttle on my own without using launch control as well, and it's near impossible because the car just roasts the back tire at the top of 1st and into 2nd gear.

[minn19]

Originally Posted by spool twice

no, not that method, that only allows you to lower it to 3,000rpm.

It's hard to explain, and probably not worth trying the method if you don't care about squeezing every last tenth out though as it requires a pretty quick foot work.

Basically when I do is this:
-engage launch control, checkered flag
-back off the throttle to let the revs drop to around 2,200rpm
-you have to do the above quick enough so that it doesn't get out of launch control mode
-release the brake while you slam on the gas
-RPM's will release closer to 4,500rpm in a "feathered" manner (like someone modulating the clutch slip with a traditional manual transmission)

no wheelspin in 1st or second gears, just a nice hook-up. My Dragy results are as follows (with a 1ft rollout) in 0-60mph:

with the alternative launch method = 3.94 seconds
using the standard launch control = 4.16 seconds

60ft times are as follows:
2.12 and 2.19

outside conditions, 82*F, 12-24ft. above sea level, 1,803ft density altitude (DA), 7/8th tank of gas (almost full).

I'll try it more with days to come, I did try to modulate the throttle on my own without using launch control as well, and it's near impossible because the car just roasts the back tire at the top of 1st and into 2nd gear.

What tires, I assume MPSS?

[spool twice]

Yes, MPSS, pumped to 36psi all around

[gripenM]

just picked mine up and have around 200 km on it so far,

coming from a regular 16 M4,
Initial impressions around town was that it felt fairly normal yet firmer.
Car feels very solid and very well built. Not a squeak or rattle.
You don't really notice the increase in power driving around town.
In fact, i think the Torque delivery starts slightly later on the CS.

But the car really shines when you can stretch its legs on the hwys.
The power delivery feels more immediate and it feels lot more lively on pulls from 3rd gear.
The increased hp/torque is definitely noticed at mid-range.

The suspension tuning is also just spot-on.
It has the performance benefits of a lowered car, without the draw-backs of discomfort or crashiness over big bumps.
I really applaud the M engineers on this one.
Coupled with muted thuds of the Cup 2's over bumps as it picks up gravel from its stickiness just hitting the undercarriage (less sound-deadening) it makes you feel like you're in something exotic.
Though, I will have to lower it as the wheel gap is kind of unsightly. I must choose my parts carefully not to mess with the susp. tuning.
Steering also feels better with that dead on-centre feel no longer there.
There's definitely lot more feedback coming thru and a lot more direct.

As for the exhaust, it sounds a bit quiet in the cabin without ASD pumping thru the speakers.
The exhaust definitely has a different tune though, it burbles and crackles a lot more and has that GTS roar upon start up.

The cup2 tires also play a big role in the handling, these tires are amazing and I would recommend them over the MPSS. It is so responsive and the level of grip makes the car so enjoyable to toss around turns.
I found they all come with TPMS and it shows you a screen with pressures and tire temps. Extremely useful for those who would track it often. I found it entertaining/useful I had the screen key'd to one of my radio preset buttons.

To summarize, having driven all the forms (regular, CP, CS, GTS)
I feel as though this car is closer in feel to the GTS than the regular.
The difference I felt is likened to when I went from my 440i to the reg. M4.
It really feels like a scaled down super car and I can understand how it has the same Nurburgring laptime as a Ferrari 458.

[Tornado1M]

Is there a separate sub forum for the CS like there is for the GTS???? 🤔

[gripenM]

Originally Posted by kevCS

Attachment 2048908

Hey guys, heres my new baby! Am I one of the select few that likes having a single zone climate control?

i find it very efficient,
before, i used to change the blender wheel to red in the morning,
then change the temps on either side to match
and do the same in the afternoon and change the blender to blue

now i just touch one dial,
it's refreshingly simple and works well

[Clark_Kent]

Originally Posted by Tornado1M

Is there a separate sub forum for the CS like there is for the GTS???? 🤔

No.

[spool twice]

I can't wait to get through these MPSS and swap for MPCS2's like you all are experiencing. The MPSS's have great handling capabilities (not CS2 levels obviously), but my main complaint about them is that when you are accelerating aggressively (not full throttle, let's say 2/3rd throttle), the rears can slip, upshift into 2nd, and it continues to slip. It's as if once they start to slipe from acceleration forces, its difficult to recover from that.

But then again I have the tire pressures at 36-37psi according to the TPMS, so maybe I just need to lower them to 34-35psi.

[xtyzx]

Just a quick update on my CS:

Finally got my car back last week and service performed PDC flash. Drives a lot straighter than it was before. I think I'm mentally bothered by the fact that it tracked right so often that I feel like it's drifting to the right still. My SA told me how they have to go through a few procedures such as swapping tires and alignment before they're able to flash. I hope that helps anyone else with this issue.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by spool twice

I can't wait to get through these MPSS and swap for MPCS2's like you all are experiencing. The MPSS's have great handling capabilities (not CS2 levels obviously), but my main complaint about them is that when you are accelerating aggressively (not full throttle, let's say 2/3rd throttle), the rears can slip, upshift into 2nd, and it continues to slip. It's as if once they start to slipe from acceleration forces, its difficult to recover from that.

But then again I have the tire pressures at 36-37psi according to the TPMS, so maybe I just need to lower them to 34-35psi.

Anyone happen to know the ideal operating temps for the MPSS and the Cup2's? How reliable is the TPMS vs a dedicated Pyrometer?

[drgmt]

The Michelin pilot sport 4S is a major improvement above the pilot super sports. Give these a try before the cup 2 tyres and their associated limitations.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by drgmt

The Michelin pilot sport 4S is a major improvement above the pilot super sports. Give these a try before the cup 2 tyres and their associated limitations.

I had MPS4S on my old F80. I want to give Cup2's a try just because I never have.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by jmg

Anyone happen to know the ideal operating temps for the MPSS and the Cup2's? How reliable is the TPMS vs a dedicated Pyrometer?

The TPMS measures the air tempersture inside the tire while a pyrometer measures the actual tread temperature. A pyrometer is therefore much more accurate. It can also be used to measure temperature variations across the tread width for accurate fine tuning of pressure and alignment settings.

[paliknight]

Originally Posted by gripenM

just picked mine up and have around 200 km on it so far,

coming from a regular 16 M4,
Initial impressions around town was that it felt fairly normal yet firmer.
Car feels very solid and very well built. Not a squeak or rattle.
You don't really notice the increase in power driving around town.
In fact, i think the Torque delivery starts slightly later on the CS.

But the car really shines when you can stretch its legs on the hwys.
The power delivery feels more immediate and it feels lot more lively on pulls from 3rd gear.
The increased hp/torque is definitely noticed at mid-range.

The suspension tuning is also just spot-on.
It has the performance benefits of a lowered car, without the draw-backs of discomfort or crashiness over big bumps.
I really applaud the M engineers on this one.
Coupled with muted thuds of the Cup 2's over bumps as it picks up gravel from its stickiness just hitting the undercarriage (less sound-deadening) it makes you feel like you're in something exotic.
Though, I will have to lower it as the wheel gap is kind of unsightly. I must choose my parts carefully not to mess with the susp. tuning.
Steering also feels better with that dead on-centre feel no longer there.
There's definitely lot more feedback coming thru and a lot more direct.

As for the exhaust, it sounds a bit quiet in the cabin without ASD pumping thru the speakers.
The exhaust definitely has a different tune though, it burbles and crackles a lot more and has that GTS roar upon start up.

The cup2 tires also play a big role in the handling, these tires are amazing and I would recommend them over the MPSS. It is so responsive and the level of grip makes the car so enjoyable to toss around turns.
I found they all come with TPMS and it shows you a screen with pressures and tire temps. Extremely useful for those who would track it often. I found it entertaining/useful I had the screen key'd to one of my radio preset buttons.

To summarize, having driven all the forms (regular, CP, CS, GTS)
I feel as though this car is closer in feel to the GTS than the regular.
The difference I felt is likened to when I went from my 440i to the reg. M4.
It really feels like a scaled down super car and I can understand how it has the same Nurburgring laptime as a Ferrari 458.

I don't know about scaled down supercar, but the CS is a really good car.

458 is also 10 years old and not known to be a great performer.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

The TPMS measures the air tempersture inside the tire while a pyrometer measures the actual tread temperature. A pyrometer is therefore much more accurate. It can also be used to measure temperature variations across the tread width for accurate fine tuning of pressure and alignment settings.

Yeah I figured. If going by the TPMS, what do you see is the optimal operating temp? How much does that vary from let's say the outer most area of the tire tread?

I guess what I'm wondering is, what's a good ballpark with TPMS and is it usually hotter of cooler than the actual tread temp at a given location?