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      04-14-2016, 12:15 PM   #45
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isn't 305 R888 are just too much traction ?
i used to have 245/40/18 on my F30 R888 and it was amazing i never thought it could use more traction.
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      04-14-2016, 12:17 PM   #46
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The F8x has....just a little bit more torque/hp than the F3x
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      04-14-2016, 01:09 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Machiavelli View Post
How come you put weights in the rim?
Is that a thing? I've had r-comps used strictly for autocross and didn't bother balancing, but I would think at higher speeds on track you would want the wheels balanced to prevent excess vibration. My track tires are NT-05s that I plan to use to drive to the track so I would want them balanced anyway, but curious about any advantages of leaving the weights off.
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      04-14-2016, 01:32 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLOSS M
Has anyone tried a full slick R7 etc.... sizes ?
I ran these last time out
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      04-14-2016, 06:49 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive4Fun View Post
I ran these last time out
how did you get the 295 to fit in front? I thought 275 was max? lowered + static neg camber?
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      04-14-2016, 07:02 PM   #50
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5mm spacer to clear spring perch on the JRZ's. -3.7 camber but you could run less and still be ok. I'm not super low tho. Could probably go another 1/2" lower before any rubbing starts.
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      04-14-2016, 07:03 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
how did you get the 295 to fit in front? I thought 275 was max? lowered + static neg camber?
295/30R18

Small aspect ratio on an 18" wheel will yield a rather small overall diameter.
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      04-14-2016, 07:19 PM   #52
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Strut to wheel clearance on driver side was 3mm less than the passenger. I found that a little weird. Yeah the 18's are not as tall and allow you to fit a wider wheel. Btw I only have 4mm clearance without any rubbing. I set the pressure to 35 cold and found a nice even temp across the tire with -3.7camber and 45lbs hot. Tomorrow I'm shooting for 46 front and 45 back tho. Outside of the tire was a little more worn and camber is maxed. Hoping that small bump helps.
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      04-14-2016, 11:43 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracr View Post
Is that a thing? I've had r-comps used strictly for autocross and didn't bother balancing, but I would think at higher speeds on track you would want the wheels balanced to prevent excess vibration. My track tires are NT-05s that I plan to use to drive to the track so I would want them balanced anyway, but curious about any advantages of leaving the weights off.
Just easier to deal with and a luxury of a dedicated track wheel/tire.

I had a dual use setup on a previous car and during a Watkins Glen event I lost the weights in 3 of 4 wheels as the heat generated from braking melted the adhesive. I subsequently put foil tape over the weights but its not very aesthetically pleasing for the street (+1 RICE mod cred?) and its a bitch to get off when you need to rebalance a new tire.

After a couple sessions on track my wheel wells would begin to fill with marbles/melted rubber, so no longer properly balanced anyhow.
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      04-15-2016, 08:40 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkndracr View Post
Is that a thing? I've had r-comps used strictly for autocross and didn't bother balancing, but I would think at higher speeds on track you would want the wheels balanced to prevent excess vibration. My track tires are NT-05s that I plan to use to drive to the track so I would want them balanced anyway, but curious about any advantages of leaving the weights off.
Simply cost savings and avoiding having weights flying around.

My track tires wear down so fast and pick up so much junk that balancing them is pretty much useless.

I am assuming that is why ///Machiavelli was nagging me, because I said that I don't bother balancing my track wheels in another thread, and he spotted the weights on my wheels in this thread.
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Last edited by CanAutM3; 04-23-2016 at 07:43 PM..
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      04-18-2016, 06:59 PM   #55
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So 18x11 rear, what wheels did you put in front? Read the previous posts, does not seem to be mentionned.

Thanks!
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      04-18-2016, 10:56 PM   #56
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18x10 et 25 ec-7
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      04-19-2016, 12:31 AM   #57
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Would the 315/30/18 fit the 18x11 +44 Apex EC-7 (rear)?

305/35/18 or 315/30/18 Nitto NT01?
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      04-19-2016, 05:25 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifebimmer View Post
So 18x11 rear, what wheels did you put in front? Read the previous posts, does not seem to be mentionned.

Thanks!
Same here 18x10ET25 EC-7.
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      04-19-2016, 05:26 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lifebimmer View Post
Would the 315/30/18 fit the 18x11 +44 Apex EC-7 (rear)?

305/35/18 or 315/30/18 Nitto NT01?
Apex successfully trial fitted both sizes for the R888.
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      04-19-2016, 10:32 AM   #60
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Thanks for the info
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      04-21-2016, 03:10 PM   #61
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It seems most are going for the 305/35/18 tire choice on the ec-7 11" wheels. I just ordered these wheels and am trying to decide what size NT01's to go with. What are the benefits of going with 305/35/18 over the 315/30/18? Thanks.
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      04-21-2016, 03:37 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander85 View Post
It seems most are going for the 305/35/18 tire choice on the ec-7 11" wheels. I just ordered these wheels and am trying to decide what size NT01's to go with. What are the benefits of going with 305/35/18 over the 315/30/18? Thanks.
I can tell you why I've chosen 305/35 with 275/40. They have similar diameters so the car's electronics won't throw hissy fits , and they maintain a reasonable level of stagger between front and rear.

My car is stock power-wise, and I didn't want too much tire at the rear compared to the front. With NT01, I believe the next size "down" from 305 or 315 is 275, and I thought 275/315 would have too much grip at the rear compared to the front.

It's nice though that they make the 275 in both 35 and 40 profile, meaning you can put a 275 front with either 305 or 315 rear. (There is almost 1" difference in diameters between 305 and 315 so you have to match the front diameter as well).
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      04-21-2016, 03:38 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xander85 View Post
It seems most are going for the 305/35/18 tire choice on the ec-7 11" wheels. I just ordered these wheels and am trying to decide what size NT01's to go with. What are the benefits of going with 305/35/18 over the 315/30/18? Thanks.
A better balance of rolling diameters. A 275-305/35R18 combo keeps things relatively closer to stock
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      04-21-2016, 03:46 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
I can tell you why I've chosen 305/35 with 275/40. They have similar diameters so the car's electronics won't throw hissy fits , and they maintain a reasonable level of stagger between front and rear.

My car is stock power-wise, and I didn't want too much tire at the rear compared to the front. With NT01, I believe the next size "down" from 305 or 315 is 275, and I thought 275/315 would have too much grip at the rear compared to the front.

It's nice though that they make the 275 in both 35 and 40 profile, meaning you can put a 275 front with either 305 or 315 rear. (There is almost 1" difference in diameters between 305 and 315 so you have to match the front diameter as well).
As I posted above, it is the 275/35-305/35 combo that keeps things the closest to stock. With a 275/40 in front, you are reversing the diameter stagger with a larger tire in front. The 315/30 is just too small IMO. For reference, tire diameters for 18" wheels:

255/40 PSS 26.0"
275/40 PSS 26.7"
275/35 NT01 25.6"
275/40 NT01 26.7"
305/35 NT01 26.4"
315/30 NT01 25.4"
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      04-22-2016, 10:27 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLOSS M View Post
I tried out the 18x11 et44 with 305/35 R888 this past Sunday. Very stable and good grip. Very slight rub on passenger fender liner, drivers side no rubbing. My car isn't lowered and has factory EDC, non comp package - I ran with sport plus for suspension setting.
I'm running the same setup, and I, too, liked the R888s the first weekend out.

The 2nd weekend, not so much. The fronts were already heat cycled out, and I battled horrific understeer all weekend. I was down 4s/lap by Sunday afternoon, and 3 of the 4 were corded at that point, anyway.

I'll admit I probably made it worse by driving to & from the event on the R888s, but I've done that before with those tires on my dedicated track car with no issues. I guess the stock setup on the F80 just works the fronts so hard, that heat cycling is a much bigger issue.

Still, that's $1K+ for a set of tires that gave me one good weekend and one lousy one. I will try something else next. (NT01, I guess. Not much to choose from if I want to stay in the ballpark of 305/35 in the back)
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      04-22-2016, 10:38 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tchiers View Post
I'm running the same setup, and I, too, liked the R888s the first weekend out.

The 2nd weekend, not so much. The fronts were already heat cycled out, and I battled horrific understeer all weekend. I was down 4s/lap by Sunday afternoon, and 3 of the 4 were corded at that point, anyway.

I'll admit I probably made it worse by driving to & from the event on the R888s, but I've done that before with those tires on my dedicated track car with no issues. I guess the stock setup on the F80 just works the fronts so hard, that heat cycling is a much bigger issue.

Still, that's $1K+ for a set of tires that gave me one good weekend and one lousy one. I will try something else next. (NT01, I guess. Not much to choose from if I want to stay in the ballpark of 305/35 in the back)
I love the NT01 because they are practically immune to heat cycling. They might not be as grippy as fresh R888, but at least they maintain their grip throughout their life. In fact, I managed to do many of my "fastest laps" with cord showing on my NT01s .
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