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      01-13-2020, 10:08 PM   #1
hC1001
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Diy request: differential bushings.

Hi, im looking for a diy to replace my diff bushings. Ive read the tis and it seems to outline these steps(going off memory, might not be exact):
-Remove exhaust.
-Remove heat shield.
-Remove support brace.
-Driveshaft needs to be disconnected from the diff and supported.
-Passenger rear axle shaft needs to be removed.
-Driverside rear axle shaft needs to be disconnected from the diff and supported out of the way.
-Drop subframe ~30mm using longer bmw bolts.
-Unbolt diff and remove.
-Change diff bushings.

I plan to go with powerflex bushings for ease of install. Are there any shortcuts to my list? Do i really need the special tool to remove the rear axle shafts? Will two flat heads on opposite sides be able to remove the axles from the diff?

Thanks for any help or tips.
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      02-24-2020, 03:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Hi, im looking for a diy to replace my diff bushings. Ive read the tis and it seems to outline these steps(going off memory, might not be exact):
-Remove exhaust.
-Remove heat shield.
-Remove support brace.
-Driveshaft needs to be disconnected from the diff and supported.
-Passenger rear axle shaft needs to be removed.
-Driverside rear axle shaft needs to be disconnected from the diff and supported out of the way.
-Drop subframe ~30mm using longer bmw bolts.
-Unbolt diff and remove.
-Change diff bushings.

I plan to go with powerflex bushings for ease of install. Are there any shortcuts to my list? Do i really need the special tool to remove the rear axle shafts? Will two flat heads on opposite sides be able to remove the axles from the diff?

Thanks for any help or tips.
ECS just came out with diff bushings and there is a guide on their page.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf
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      02-24-2020, 04:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richf80 View Post
ECS just came out with diff bushings and there is a guide on their page.

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...stallation.pdf
Thanks, ill take a look.
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      02-25-2020, 03:11 PM   #4
hC1001
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They are dropping the entire subframe to swap out the bushings. Not sure if thats easier or not from the BMW instructions, its nice they didnt need to remove the rear axles. I think im gonna try the BMW way of lowering the subframe a little bit but leave the rear axles connected. Hoping there is enough room for me to drill out the rubber bushing and then use a hacksaw or something to cut the bushings metal sleeve. Since the PF bushing is a two piece design, i hope there is enough room to squeeze them in. Dont have to bother using a bushing remover/installer.

Will create a DIY if its successful.
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      02-25-2020, 03:21 PM   #5
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Diff.

DIY + Hacksaw = Doesn't sit well with me. My .02. GL
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      02-25-2020, 03:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobe92 View Post
DIY + Hacksaw = Doesn't sit well with me. My .02. GL


I've done it before with success on other cars. Its to weaken the bushing sleeve so you can hammer a flat head on the sleeve to deform it and make it smaller for extraction. Wont know the best course of action until im in front of it. I think i would be able to support and lower the diff to give some space for a threaded rod to press the bushing out, id prefer that.
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      03-03-2020, 08:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobe92 View Post
DIY + Hacksaw = Doesn't sit well with me. My .02. GL
This is a routine procedure for replacing bushings. Cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw only takes a couple minutes and saves tons of effort trying to press the bushing out. Once it’s cut it generally slides out easily.
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      03-05-2020, 09:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingLow78 View Post
This is a routine procedure for replacing bushings. Cutting the sleeve with a hacksaw only takes a couple minutes and saves tons of effort trying to press the bushing out. Once it’s cut it generally slides out easily.
I think you are on the right path, I am also going to do a similar thing to get mine out !!
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      08-21-2020, 07:06 PM   #9
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update? I'm going to tackle this when the ecs ones are off backorder
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      08-23-2020, 11:14 PM   #10
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It was do-able. You can actually remove the bushing from the metal sleeve. I used a hacksaw blade to make a cut on the sleeve and then used a small flathead screwdriver to bend the sleeve inwards. Its pretty straightforward. The biggest pain in the ass was the front driverside diff bolt. The fuel tank is in the way, so you have to drop the subframe to get clearance.


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      08-24-2020, 04:16 AM   #11
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great job hc1001, I will be doing the same soon, thanks!! What brand bushings did you put back in, did they make a difference?
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      08-24-2020, 10:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jballer123 View Post
great job hc1001, I will be doing the same soon, thanks!! What brand bushings did you put back in, did they make a difference?
I went with purple powerflex in the front and rear because it was easier to install. If you go with OEM, i think its possible to press it into the subframe using a threaded rod If you move around the diff a little bit for room.

I actually didnt have any common symptoms associated with a bad rear diff bushing. Only noticed it because it was torn. The new PF bushings feel good. Similar or slightly better to how the car feels new. You can go with the PF black series if you want stiffer.

Just make sure you give slack to the brake lines, ebrake cable, subframe ground cable, etc... when lowering the subframe. My biggest goals were to replace it without removing the rear axles or driveshaft from the diff.

Its strange that the TIS repair instructions dont mention anything about that driverside front diff bolt. I couldnt get to it using the extended repair subframe bolts because the fuel tank is in the way.

Last edited by hC1001; 08-24-2020 at 10:32 AM..
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      08-24-2020, 10:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jballer123 View Post
great job hc1001, I will be doing the same soon, thanks!! What brand bushings did you put back in, did they make a difference?
I went with purple powerflex in the front and rear because it was easier to install. If you go with OEM, i think its possible to press it into the subframe using a threaded rod If you move around the diff a little bit for room.

I actually didnt have any common symptoms associated with a bad rear diff bushing. Only noticed it because it was torn. The new PF bushings feel good. Similar or slightly better to how the car feels new. You can go with the PF black series if you want stiffer.

Just make sure you give slack to the brake lines, ebrake cable, subframe ground cable, etc... when lowering the subframe. My biggest goals were to replace it without removing the rear axles or driveshaft from the diff.

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      11-08-2020, 09:45 PM   #14
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I just finished this job, and I don’t see why the TIS says to remove either axle. Following the ECS guide method is definitely the way to go. Removing the drive shaft isn’t a huge deal, and it definitely is easier than tiptoeing around it.
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      11-09-2020, 08:43 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djdnav View Post
I just finished this job, and I don’t see why the TIS says to remove either axle. Following the ECS guide method is definitely the way to go. Removing the drive shaft isn’t a huge deal, and it definitely is easier than tiptoeing around it.
Nice job. Do you have a lift? I dont think it would be easy if you dont have a lift. I did mine on jackstands in my driveway.

In the TIS, they want you to remove the differential from the carrier first before replacing the bushings and you cant remove it with the axles still attached.
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      11-10-2020, 12:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Nice job. Do you have a lift? I dont think it would be easy if you dont have a lift. I did mine on jackstands in my driveway.

In the TIS, they want you to remove the differential from the carrier first before replacing the bushings and you cant remove it with the axles still attached.
No, I did it by myself, on the floor of my garage. I used 4 (very thick) zip ties to hold each axle to the subframe, unbolted the front and rear mount, and rotated the diff to make the room needed to work in the rear bushings.
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      11-10-2020, 04:00 PM   #17
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How many miles are people replacing these things at? Seems like a Pita problem to have to deal with.
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      11-11-2020, 01:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White340 View Post
How many miles are people replacing these things at? Seems like a Pita problem to have to deal with.


My car is at 34k and the bushing looked like this. As far as how much of a PITA, I'd say it's slightly easier than replacing the clutch. It's a lot of the same prep work, but R&R of the rear sub frame is easier than the transmission.
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      11-11-2020, 02:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djdnav View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by White340 View Post
How many miles are people replacing these things at? Seems like a Pita problem to have to deal with.


My car is at 34k and the bushing looked like this. As far as how much of a PITA, I'd say it's slightly easier than replacing the clutch. It's a lot of the same prep work, but R&R of the rear sub frame is easier than the transmission.
Thanks. Both are beyond my means anyway! Will have to make sure service checks this out before the warranty expires if I buy my car out.
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      03-23-2021, 09:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
I went with purple powerflex in the front and rear because it was easier to install. If you go with OEM, i think its possible to press it into the subframe using a threaded rod If you move around the diff a little bit for room.

I actually didnt have any common symptoms associated with a bad rear diff bushing. Only noticed it because it was torn. The new PF bushings feel good. Similar or slightly better to how the car feels new. You can go with the PF black series if you want stiffer.

Just make sure you give slack to the brake lines, ebrake cable, subframe ground cable, etc... when lowering the subframe. My biggest goals were to replace it without removing the rear axles or driveshaft from the diff.

Its strange that the TIS repair instructions dont mention anything about that driverside front diff bolt. I couldnt get to it using the extended repair subframe bolts because the fuel tank is in the way.
Where do you get the extended subframe repair bolts? I assume they significantly longer(hence the name) so you can lower the frame with it still connected to the car?

How'd you remove the bushings? I heard BMW have a diff bushing removal tool, just haven't found it that says it fits the F80.
Did you unbolt the driveshaft?
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      03-23-2021, 10:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
Where do you get the extended subframe repair bolts? I assume they significantly longer(hence the name) so you can lower the frame with it still connected to the car?

How'd you remove the bushings? I heard BMW have a diff bushing removal tool, just haven't found it that says it fits the F80.
Did you unbolt the driveshaft?
From the repair manual:
"The rear axle support must be lowered to disassemble and install the rear axle differential.

In order to prevent lowering of the rear axle support beyond the specified dimension, the originally installed screws of the rear axle support must be replaced by repair screws M12x1.5x115 (part number: 07 14 7 426 660).

It is essential to fit the repair screws M12x1.5x115 with washers 37x2.5 (part number: 31 33 6 776 760)."
I still had to lower the driverside even more because one of the front diff bracket bolts is blocked by the fuel tank. The repair bolts arent necessary but it helped suspend the subframe.

Post 10 for diff bushing removal. Used a hacksaw blade to cut the sleeve. The rubber part of the bushing is removable from the sleeve once you make space for it.

I only unbolted the driveshaft from the guibo. Left it connected at the differential input shaft. Just hang the driveshaft with a ziptie to the chassis. Theres special procedures to installing it and there are some people who had a clunk develop after disconnecting it from the input shaft. I wanted to avoid disconnecting it from the diff input shaft and its possible to complete the work with it connected. I also dont have any clunks after the repair.
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      03-23-2021, 11:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
From the repair manual:
"The rear axle support must be lowered to disassemble and install the rear axle differential.

In order to prevent lowering of the rear axle support beyond the specified dimension, the originally installed screws of the rear axle support must be replaced by repair screws M12x1.5x115 (part number: 07 14 7 426 660).

It is essential to fit the repair screws M12x1.5x115 with washers 37x2.5 (part number: 31 33 6 776 760)."
I still had to lower the driverside even more because one of the front diff bracket bolts is blocked by the fuel tank. The repair bolts arent necessary but it helped suspend the subframe.

Post 10 for diff bushing removal. Used a hacksaw blade to cut the sleeve. The rubber part of the bushing is removable from the sleeve once you make space for it.

I only unbolted the driveshaft from the guibo. Left it connected at the differential input shaft. Just hang the driveshaft with a ziptie to the chassis. Theres special procedures to installing it and there are some people who had a clunk develop after disconnecting it from the input shaft. I wanted to avoid disconnecting it from the diff input shaft and its possible to complete the work with it connected. I also dont have any clunks after the repair.
Awesome thanks for the info. Sounds like it wasn't to bad. So you can leave the axles and everything connected which makes life easier.
I was going to get the press tool, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
I haven't had great luck in the past cutting bushings out.

What repair manual are you referencing? Is there an online copy of it?
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