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      11-02-2014, 09:19 PM   #1
KASM3
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Can someone do a brake change DIY?

Standard and CCB?
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      11-02-2014, 09:24 PM   #2
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Do you mean the brake pads or the entire brake system?
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      11-05-2014, 07:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthal
Do you mean the brake pads or the entire brake system?
Brake pads!
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      11-05-2014, 07:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASM3 View Post
Brake pads!
Simple...
  1. Jack up car and remove wheel
  2. Use a nail punch and hammer to knock out the two pins in the brake caliper. These pins are on on the outside of the caliper away from the rotor and hold the pads in place.
  3. Remove the pins and the metal retaining clip
  4. Push the pads away from the rotor to push the pistons back into the caliper
  5. Slide the pads out and unclip the brake wear sensor
  6. Reattach the sensor to the new pads
  7. Slide new pads back in
  8. Re-install pins and metal retaining clip
  9. Ensure pins are fully seated using a hammer... careful not to hit the caliper itself
  10. Reinstall wheel
  11. Done!

I would take pics but that isn't practical right now as I'm not actually changing the pads again any time soon but it is SUPER easy. I can do the entire car before a track event in under 40 minutes. Examine the calipers and when you see the pins it is completely self explanatory and really, really easy.
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      11-05-2014, 10:13 PM   #5
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^What he said.

Here is a DIY for Brembo brakes that are similar to ours. Brake pad spreader is not really necessary, just squeeze hard by hand and be patient.

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/408448-post1.html
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      11-06-2014, 08:33 AM   #6
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I'll be changing my pads again in about a week or so and will try to get some pics. What gthal said and optionally 6) You can just zip tie the wear sensors out of the way if you're temporarily use track pads.

This is for steels of course. If you've paid $9K for CCB I sure hope you don't have to change brake pads for a track day.
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      11-12-2014, 06:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gthal
Quote:
Originally Posted by KASM3 View Post
Brake pads!
Simple...
  1. Jack up car and remove wheel
  2. Use a nail punch and hammer to knock out the two pins in the brake caliper. These pins are on on the outside of the caliper away from the rotor and hold the pads in place.
  3. Remove the pins and the metal retaining clip
  4. Push the pads away from the rotor to push the pistons back into the caliper
  5. Slide the pads out and unclip the brake wear sensor
  6. Reattach the sensor to the new pads
  7. Slide new pads back in
  8. Re-install pins and metal retaining clip
  9. Ensure pins are fully seated using a hammer... careful not to hit the caliper itself
  10. Reinstall wheel
  11. Done!

I would take pics but that isn't practical right now as I'm not actually changing the pads again any time soon but it is SUPER easy. I can do the entire car before a track event in under 40 minutes. Examine the calipers and when you see the pins it is completely self explanatory and really, really easy.
Thank you for posting. Sounds like a breeze thanks!
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      11-13-2014, 09:47 AM   #8
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Thanks track guys!! Been meaning to change out the pads on a different car (Benz) to reduce dust.
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      04-01-2015, 07:37 PM   #9
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How many liters do you need to do a full system flush?? Anyone have this info? I've searched and it's been impossible for me to find
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      04-02-2015, 01:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3z View Post
How many liters do you need to do a full system flush?? Anyone have this info? I've searched and it's been impossible for me to find
1 bottle is fine...I did my M4 and had a little left over after using only 1.
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      04-02-2015, 02:10 PM   #11
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One quick note: I do not know the standard calipers, but the CCB calipers have to be removed to change the pads, and it is using two aluminum caliper-attachment bolts per caliper, these are one-time use bolts, so you have to replace them too. Do NOT reuse the bolts.
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      04-02-2015, 04:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jewels View Post
1 bottle is fine...I did my M4 and had a little left over after using only 1.
Thanks!
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      05-25-2015, 08:14 PM   #13
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what tool are you using to push the pistons back into the caliper?

do you remove the old pads first? then use a tool to push the pistons in? or do you use the tool to push on the pads which in turn pushes the pistons flush?

i was wondering if there is enough of a gap between the pad and the rotor to slide a spreader tool in...
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      05-26-2015, 01:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude View Post
what tool are you using to push the pistons back into the caliper?

do you remove the old pads first? then use a tool to push the pistons in? or do you use the tool to push on the pads which in turn pushes the pistons flush?

i was wondering if there is enough of a gap between the pad and the rotor to slide a spreader tool in...
You really don't need a spreader tool ...just remove one pad at a time , if it is tight and won't come out use some sideways pressure on it at the top and it should slide out. If you find the new pad too tight just push back the pistons with the old pad inserted side ways or a small correctly placed and sized piece of wood (nothing sharp).
It really was not an issue when I changed mine. If the pistons need to be pushed in just remember there hydraulic and will react slowly to pressure.
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      05-26-2015, 09:32 AM   #15
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Here's one with pics. Was useful for me

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1116901
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      05-26-2015, 09:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chillindrdude View Post
what tool are you using to push the pistons back into the caliper?

do you remove the old pads first? then use a tool to push the pistons in? or do you use the tool to push on the pads which in turn pushes the pistons flush?

i was wondering if there is enough of a gap between the pad and the rotor to slide a spreader tool in...
The pistons are easy to push back in just using your fingers.
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      05-26-2015, 11:34 AM   #17
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I use a Lisle 29100 Spreader and crack open the reservoir. Under $40 tool on amazon. Well worth it if you change pads frequently.
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      05-26-2015, 12:15 PM   #18
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Pad Change

Quote:
Originally Posted by KASM3 View Post
Standard and CCB?

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1116901
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      05-26-2015, 02:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by nolfM6 View Post


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      05-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaynardZed View Post
This is for steels of course. If you've paid $9K for CCB I sure hope you don't have to change brake pads for a track day.
haha... another unnecessary comment about Carbon Ceramic Brakes from a NON MCCB owner lmao
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      05-26-2015, 07:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post


LOL whoops
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      06-05-2015, 08:48 AM   #22
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Just be sure to get an alignment after you are done. Prevents headache down the line.
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