Bare minimum changes necessary for tracking F8x

[jmg]

Originally Posted by nicknaz

Was everyone ok?

That’s pretty bad for that to happen in beginner group (which usually has in car instructor these days).

I won’t bother naming the group but it’s a thing to consider when going to spend your track dollars

So far I've only had an in-car instructor for beginner groups at a POC event, which I fully took advantage of. Apex provided one free of charge for all experience levels, but it wasn't required. Even the SCCA didn't have one, and some organizers charge extra for it.

The last HPDE I went to a few weeks ago should have intervened when someone in the beginner group was HONKING constantly to get point by and was very aggressive all day. He was revving his engine and peeling out on the front straight coming out of the last turn that he always took too fast. He ended up blowing his engine on that same turn trying to correct all the speed he lost.
We all shook our heads as he went half a lap bellowing smoke and potentially spilling oil on half the track. Good thing it was the last run of the day, he could have ruined it for everyone. We all packed up and left as the tow truck arrived. He got no sympathy. No one waited for him or offered extra help. Normally people are very helpful to fellow drivers at the track, but he pissed everyone off.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by dth656

To clarify, this incident did NOT take place at an HOD event, but another track day organizer.

I have attended quite a few HOD events in CA, and they are very quick to address potential issues.

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...dsf-com-212390

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by jmg

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events...dsf-com-212390

Sunday - $225 / Monday - $225

So it's a cheap track day like track night america in which uneducated/inexperienced (or experienced but immature) drivers raise hell in every group?

[fackamato]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

Sunday - $225 / Monday - $225

So it's a cheap track day like track night america in which uneducated/inexperienced (or experienced but immature) drivers raise hell in every group?

My experience with Track Night in America here in WA has been nothing but excellent, FWIW. I've run in the novice and intermediate groups, no "raising hell" here that I've seen.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by fackamato

My experience with Track Night in America here in WA has been nothing but excellent, FWIW. I've run in the novice and intermediate groups, no "raising hell" here that I've seen.

Cool! I've heard quite a few complaints about their event here at PIR, and hence I didn't want to try them and don't have my personal experience with them.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

Cool! I've heard quite a few complaints about their event here at PIR, and hence I didn't want to try them and don't have my personal experience with them.

I've only attended one of their events and had a great time with no drama. The real test is when someone decides they are Tom Cruise and brakes are for only for slowing down.

[AustinTrkJunkie]

Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron

I was just about to let it go and then I see this post..

Are you out of your mind? And why does treadwear labeling even matter these days? Didn't that argument already get beat to death in the AutoX world?

https://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/v...c.php?id=35154

Rules, oh those silly rules...Hoosier- 40 tire wear, NT01 - 100, RE71 - 200.

And see section 2 of the rules for an even more explicit breakdown on tire wear and types...

So yes, there is some relevance to it, even today.

I haven't raced Lemon's in several years, but we we tried a variety of tires and eventually landed on NT05's which - even though were over the 190 limit - performed better and lasted longer than others we sampled

So to your point, as you get higher in numbers, there is less difference. Especially when you get between say 200 and 300 tire wear.

But if you're really going to say that the 40 tire wear rating/labeling on a Hoosier R6 is not relevant to how sticky it is compared to the RE71, we need to talk about a bridge I wanna sell you in NJ!

[OhioRiderAaron]

Originally Posted by AustinTrkJunkie

https://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/v...c.php?id=35154

Rules, oh those silly rules...Hoosier- 40 tire wear, NT01 - 100, RE71 - 200.

And see section 2 of the rules for an even more explicit breakdown on tire wear and types...

So yes, there is some relevance to it, even today.

I haven't raced Lemon's in several years, but we we tried a variety of tires and eventually landed on NT05's which - even though were over the 190 limit - performed better and lasted longer than others we sampled

So to your point, as you get higher in numbers, there is less difference. Especially when you get between say 200 and 300 tire wear.

But if you're really going to say that the 40 tire wear rating/labeling on a Hoosier R6 is not relevant to how sticky it is compared to the RE71, we need to talk about a bridge I wanna sell you in NJ!

Sorry I didnt specify, I meant the NT01 and/vs the RE71/newer 200tw tires. The NT01 is nothing special these days, and I stand by my comments regarding it vs some of the true street tires that are even available from the factory with some OEM's (see Camaro). Either way agree to disagree on the Nittos. Friendly banter is good for the forum lol

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by AustinTrkJunkie

https://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/v...c.php?id=35154

Rules, oh those silly rules...Hoosier- 40 tire wear, NT01 - 100, RE71 - 200.

And see section 2 of the rules for an even more explicit breakdown on tire wear and types...

So yes, there is some relevance to it, even today.

I haven't raced Lemon's in several years, but we we tried a variety of tires and eventually landed on NT05's which - even though were over the 190 limit - performed better and lasted longer than others we sampled

So to your point, as you get higher in numbers, there is less difference. Especially when you get between say 200 and 300 tire wear.

But if you're really going to say that the 40 tire wear rating/labeling on a Hoosier R6 is not relevant to how sticky it is compared to the RE71, we need to talk about a bridge I wanna sell you in NJ!

Tread wear is a decent general indicator of the potential grip of a tire (i.e. a 60 has a good chance of gripping more than a 300), but it is far from being accurate for direct comparisons.

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron

Sorry I didnt specify, I meant the NT01 and/vs the RE71/newer 200tw tires. The NT01 is nothing special these days, and I stand by my comments regarding it vs some of the true street tires that are even available from the factory with some OEM's (see Camaro). Either way agree to disagree on the Nittos. Friendly banter is good for the forum lol

Have you tried 40tw toyo RR? They are pretty durable on my SM. Last year did 10 weekends (several were 3 days weekends with open test on friday) with 2 drivers sharing, and a 2 hour enduro and it’s still not yet corded.

After the initial fall off, it’s consistent to the cords.

If there’s some street tire and track tire switching, I would go Re71r for street or wet track and RR for dry. Heavily biased as that’s what goes on the trailer for me.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by nicknaz

Have you tried 40tw toyo RR? They are pretty durable on my SM. Last year did 10 weekends (several were 3 days weekends with open test on friday) with 2 drivers sharing, and a 2 hour enduro and it’s still not yet corded.

After the initial fall off, it’s consistent to the cords.

If there’s some street tire and track tire switching, I would go Re71r for street or wet track and RR for dry. Heavily biased as that’s what goes on the trailer for me.

hmm.. maybe I should get the RR for Miata and just drive that to track like I do with NT-01 on M4? I just got BFG g-force comp-2 a/s for my miata after driving the old street tires into cord/bald and these are pretty damn grippy in rain! I will miss all the daily siding fun in rain with the worn tires though.

[AustinTrkJunkie]

Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron

Sorry I didnt specify, I meant the NT01 and/vs the RE71/newer 200tw tires. The NT01 is nothing special these days, and I stand by my comments regarding it vs some of the true street tires that are even available from the factory with some OEM's (see Camaro). Either way agree to disagree on the Nittos. Friendly banter is good for the forum lol

I will agree with that, just wanted to point out that - in some places - those ratings still have relevance...even if it is only in $500 shit-can racing

Off to prep my car for COTA this weekend, instructing a M4 GTS, should be fun!

[OhioRiderAaron]

Originally Posted by AustinTrkJunkie

I will agree with that, just wanted to point out that - in some places - those ratings still have relevance...even if it is only in $500 shit-can racing

Off to prep my car for COTA this weekend, instructing a M4 GTS, should be fun!

So the repave is already done? Oh must be the Chin event. Let us know how it goes!

[AustinTrkJunkie]

Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron

So the repave is already done? Oh must be the Chin event. Let us know how it goes!

Some pics from a buddy on the Rennlist forum:

https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...l#post16343712

[Kev608]

Originally Posted by nicknaz

Have you tried 40tw toyo RR? They are pretty durable on my SM. Last year did 10 weekends (several were 3 days weekends with open test on friday) with 2 drivers sharing, and a 2 hour enduro and it’s still not yet corded.

After the initial fall off, it’s consistent to the cords.

If there’s some street tire and track tire switching, I would go Re71r for street or wet track and RR for dry. Heavily biased as that’s what goes on the trailer for me.

I have Toyo RR. Have not driven on them yet, but they feel light-years ahead of the NT-01, RE71R, etc. I do not expect them to last long, but am sure they will keep me glued to the track.

[nicknaz]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

hmm.. maybe I should get the RR for Miata and just drive that to track like I do with NT-01 on M4? I just got BFG g-force comp-2 a/s for my miata after driving the old street tires into cord/bald and these are pretty damn grippy in rain! I will miss all the daily siding fun in rain with the worn tires though.

I would not recommend using RR on the streets. It’s a competition tire with 2 small bands of “tread” and 40tw.

Use the toyo RA1 if you want to street drive on an (old tech) R tire.

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by nicknaz

I would not recommend using RR on the streets. It’s a competition tire with 2 small bands of “tread” and 40tw.

Use the toyo RA1 if you want to street drive on an (old tech) R tire.

Not even for a short track day only commute when dry? You know we can't fit even one tire in the trunk...

[fackamato]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

Not even for a short track day only commute when dry? You know we can't fit even one tire in the trunk...

I can fit 4 wheels, jack, stands and tools no problem in the M3

edit: This was about a Miata, my post is irrelevant!

[OhioRiderAaron]

Originally Posted by MyFragileHalogen

Not even for a short track day only commute when dry? You know we can't fit even one tire in the trunk...

Dry commute to the track? You'll be fine.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by fackamato

I can fit 4 wheels, jack, stands and tools no problem in the M3

Same here, although I don't bother with jack stands. You can safely jack up one side to swap both wheels/tires since you're not going under the car. I always take off the back tire first and stick it under the car in the middle, just in case the jack were to fail, although that's never happened to me.

I've also done this once when I had to swap brake pads at the track.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

Same here, although I don't bother with jack stands. You can safely jack up one side to swap both wheels/tires since you're not going under the car. I always take off the back tire first and stick it under the car in the middle, just in case the jack were to fail, although that's never happened to me.

I've also done this once when I had to swap brake pads at the track.

Instead of using a jack pad adapter, has anyone swapped out those jack point rectangles for something flat?

[MyFragileHalogen]

Originally Posted by fackamato

I can fit 4 wheels, jack, stands and tools no problem in the M3

We were talking about Miata. (image: not my car, but it's exactly like this)

Speaking of our F8X, I am also lazy to carry track tires. It seems quite involving trying to cram in that 305 tires into back seat on my M4.
Thinking about just driving them to Shelton this year but concern is will there be any significant wear on the front inner side of tires during that 300mi round trip.