02-07-2021, 05:19 PM | #67 |
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02-08-2021, 10:42 AM | #68 |
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I am going to be bleeding them today so I will let you know how I do with the ABS etc - I may try and cycle it if I can.
The coding must control the vacuum to the booster for pedal feel, there is nothing else it could possibly do to change the way the brakes function (unless it’s somehow doing something inside the ABS module but I doubt it) |
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02-08-2021, 10:50 AM | #69 |
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I went through the retrofit last week.
You need to run the ABS/DSC bleed procedure or you will end up with a soft pedal. You can do it via ISTA but I'm sure there are other tools that can initiate the procedure. The coding is also done via ISTA vehicle modification/retrofit. Its forcing me to update my overall iLeval, and I'm not sure of the exact changes made for the retrofit. I'll go through the coding/update this week. I'm interested to see what changes are made and how it relates to braking. |
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02-08-2021, 11:43 AM | #71 |
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I did some research, seems like it is something I can use - however I havent seen much on the bleed procedure even if you get the pump to cycle
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02-08-2021, 12:04 PM | #72 |
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You can install it from the BMW NA Technical Information System (TIS) site(https://www.bmwtis.com/m) which charges you 30 dollars a day or download it from some of the links on this forum. If you get it from BMW you will get the access to the latest iLevel update but be sure to block your system from uploading data to BMW if your car is tuned as it will detect it during the test routine.
There are quite a few really good articles in the coding section on using ISTA. Last edited by irunalot; 02-08-2021 at 12:30 PM.. |
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02-09-2021, 05:02 AM | #73 | |
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Is there any way of doing this without it? |
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02-09-2021, 06:39 AM | #74 |
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I'm trying to find a way to not update everything but so far I have not been given the option to select only the retrofit. I'm going to give it another try this week to see if I can. Maybe someone with more ISTA experience can chime in on how to accomplish the retrofit without updating the other ECUs.
As far as locking the DME I was on the previous iLevel and my DME was not locked. I was able to install BM3 without issue. |
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02-09-2021, 03:56 PM | #75 |
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OK so I got this ISTA thing and figured out how to run the DSC pump so I will do that and bleed today.
For any of those in the know, do I need the ICOM cable thing to simply update the CCB retrofit option? Or can I use an ENET cable? |
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02-10-2021, 02:58 AM | #78 |
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How much time did it take to change just the booster?
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02-10-2021, 10:34 PM | #79 |
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I’d say 3 hours to do the booster - you could probably do it in less once you know the order - I fumbled with it for a while and tried to get it past the ABS which wasted time.
I’d say you should try this order: Take off lines to ABS. Undo 13mm nuts to booster under column and take the pin out from the brake pedal (that clip is a pain) This allows you to tilt it all up a bit Then undo master cylinder lines Unbolt master cylinder itself and take out Take out ABS module Booster out |
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02-13-2021, 11:30 AM | #81 |
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So I've reached out to a bunch of members on this forum, as well as a local guy - and I have had absolutely zero clarity on what is truly needed (everyone has been helpful which is of course appreciated)
So far I've been told the following: -Must have ICOM and ISTA -For F80, all you need is ISTA and an enet cable -Local guy - can use ESYS and an Enet cable. Does anyone know the definitive answer on any of this? Also - second question, for someone that has had the before and after of the coding - what was the specific pedal feel changes you noticed? I am hoping to notice a difference in initial grab, as even moving the car in the garage it almost takes too much pedal pressure for the initial bite ( but when you get into the brakes hard while driving they are there) |
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02-13-2021, 11:56 AM | #82 |
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It can be done through ESYS and ENT I just do not have the knowledge to do so.
So I reached out to kubax86 who did it remotely. If I connect ISTA with an ENET the vehicle management section is greyed out. |
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02-17-2021, 04:10 PM | #83 |
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hi guys,
i did ccb conversion to steel brakes last week. i ended up the with same problem as some of you experienced. The pedal travel is now a few cm and i have less bite than before. Should i change my brake booster too? some people seem to manage running the ccb booster without any issues on steel brakes.... |
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02-23-2021, 11:14 PM | #84 |
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OK so I just re-bled the brakes (again) trying the traditional method with the help of a friend, as well as using the ISTA to trigger the ABS pump.
Although I didnt see any air on any of the bleeds, the pedal is MUCH better now so I'm happy with that. To be clear - i did: All 4 corners again with a friend holding the pedal ( traditional down up method) Then bled them with the same method WHILE i triggered the ABS pump. I was skeptical because of not seeing air, but the pedal is nice and solid, and right at the top. So my advice is to keep going and maybe drive the car, get the ABS to cycle naturally from a lockup, then try another bleed. |
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03-06-2021, 12:38 PM | #85 | |
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When I get round to doing this I'm going to do a DIY for any one else that's thinking of doing it them self's |
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03-21-2021, 08:53 AM | #86 |
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Ok guys i finished the install on the weekend and this is my input.
changing the calipers and discs was pretty much straight forward. swapping the brake booster wasn't as hard as i though it would be, took me about 15 minutes with an impact driver to take the aluminum and carbon strut off and two 10mm bolts for the cover under the steering coulomb + the pin holding the pedal to the booster. then another 20 minutes to loosen all the brake lines from the ABS unit and between the master cylinder and the booster was out. I first had to remove the ABS unit which was held in place with one 10mm bolt and disconnect the wiring, although i made the mistake of not detaching the battery beforehand and as soon as i connected everything up and started the car for the first time i noticed something has gone wrong with the coding of the car and i lost the ability to shot the car off in neutral with two pushes on the start button. now first push stops the engine and the second one instead of shutting the ignition off it starts the engine back up. I’m not too worried about this because I need to get the car coded for the CCB anyway. I switched the master cylinder to the new booster I advise first to disconnect the vacuum line to release the vacuum which will make it much easier to pull out the master cylinder from the booster. And that’s about it install is the exact opposite of dismantling. I actually feel this was a very easy and straight forward job. Next step was to bleed the system and I’m guessing no air got into the ABS pump because I didn’t run the ABS bleeding procedure, but my brake pedal is hard and I don’t have any air in the lines after a simple bleeding. By the way I tried driving the car around before coding and if a get hard on the brakes it will throw a bunch of codes and warnings and emergency lights will turn on so I’m guessing coding is an absolute most. |
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01-11-2022, 12:46 PM | #88 |
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Also BW (who races these cars) CCB to iron says no booster swap
https://www.bimmerworld.com/CCB-to-I...ke-Conversion/ Who swaps to iron to go tracking? |
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