MCS 1WNR or 2WR?

[RSXDC5]

Originally Posted by sly1types

RSXDC5

What do you run your rebound and compression on for the street and track?

Just had a track day today, debuting my new 305/30/19 front 325/30/19 rear Nankang AR-1 setup. Holy cow, it was perfect.

Rebound is 11 front and 11 rear
Compression is 5 front and 4 rear
Using track nitrogen settings

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

Just had a track day today, debuting my new 305/30/19 front 325/30/19 rear Nankang AR-1 setup. Holy cow, it was perfect.

Rebound is 11 front and 11 rear
Compression is 5 front and 4 rear
Using track nitrogen settings

That's a lot of meat, pretty noticeable?

[RSXDC5]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

That's a lot of meat, pretty noticeable?

Super noticeable. Tons of front end grip, tons of rear end grip, felt much better than my previous 305 squared setup. No rubbing either. I will be unmounting my track wheels tomorrow to double check everything, but overall, super happy and put down some great times!

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

Super noticeable. Tons of front end grip, tons of rear end grip, felt much better than my previous 305 squared setup. No rubbing either. I will be unmounting my track wheels tomorrow to double check everything, but overall, super happy and put down some great times!

Wow! What is your offset/width and camber setting?

[RSXDC5]

Originally Posted by sly1types

Wow! What is your offset/width and camber setting?

19x10.5 +15 @ -3.1 camber w/ 305/30/19 Nankang AR-1
19x11.5 +44 @ -2.1 camber w/ 325/30/19 Nankang AR-1

0.07 rear toe in per side. 5in front 60mm spring w/ 0 rate helper on my MCS 2WR, car is not slammed, I need all the usable MCS suspension travel goodness I can get!

[CSM3]

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

19x10.5 +15 @ -3.1 camber w/ 305/30/19 Nankang AR-1
19x11.5 +44 @ -2.1 camber w/ 325/30/19 Nankang AR-1

0.07 rear toe in per side. 5in front 60mm spring w/ 0 rate helper on my MCS 2WR, car is not slammed, I need all the usable MCS suspension travel goodness I can get!

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

19x10.5 +15 @ -3.1 camber w/ 305/30/19 Nankang AR-1
19x11.5 +44 @ -2.1 camber w/ 325/30/19 Nankang AR-1

0.07 rear toe in per side. 5in front 60mm spring w/ 0 rate helper on my MCS 2WR, car is not slammed, I need all the usable MCS suspension travel goodness I can get!

Can we see some pics of your setup!?

[fanatic1]

Originally Posted by RSXDC5

19x10.5 +15 @ -3.1 camber w/ 305/30/19 Nankang AR-1
19x11.5 +44 @ -2.1 camber w/ 325/30/19 Nankang AR-1

0.07 rear toe in per side. 5in front 60mm spring w/ 0 rate helper on my MCS 2WR, car is not slammed, I need all the usable MCS suspension travel goodness I can get!

No spacer in the rear? I had some rubbing with 11” ET44 on 325 DH (tire was too big for 11)

[RSXDC5]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

No spacer in the rear? I had some rubbing with 11" ET44 on 325 DH (tire was too big for 11)

No spacer in the rear & no rubbing. If memory serves, you ran a lot of rear camber (-2.7?), dial that back to -2.1, get a wider wheel and you're golden!

[MR RIZK]

Originally Posted by x.shell

This is what I'm thinking of doing. After more research, it looks like there is no way to avoid disconnecting the front canisters during install — the external reservoirs are too large to fit through the spindle.

That is why I suspect that MCS includes the dry breaks in the kit for the front only. The canister can fit through the spindle but the hose cannot since it is on the side of the can. Shame as the disconnects are not cheap.

[heyyouduh]

kind of a thread jack - OP or mod if this is inappropriate please delete.

I have a dual duty M3 (street tires, no aero, realistically 6 events a year), deciding between 1wnr and 2wnr. price difference not big so leaning towards 2wnr. eventually will move onto stickier tires/more hardcore build once I retire this car as a daily in a few years, so having dual adjustability would be nice. Have a couple of questions:

1.Bimmerworld recommends 600/900 lbs/in rates, that seems a little high for my use, no?
2. Any comments on the linear valving of the 1wnr vs the more digressive of the 2wnr?
3. Coding adaptive suspension out seems cheapest/cleanest, but seems like may raise issues if car is taken to dealership, anyone have had issues with this? if an EDC module is the way to go, any difference between the diff ones (kw, ohlins etc)?

TIA

[sly1types]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

kind of a thread jack - OP or mod if this is inappropriate please delete.

I have a dual duty M3 (street tires, no aero, realistically 6 events a year), deciding between 1wnr and 2wnr. price difference not big so leaning towards 2wnr. eventually will move onto stickier tires/more hardcore build once I retire this car as a daily in a few years, so having dual adjustability would be nice. Have a couple of questions:

1.Bimmerworld recommends 600/900 lbs/in rates, that seems a little high for my use, no?
2. Any comments on the linear valving of the 1wnr vs the more digressive of the 2wnr?
3. Coding adaptive suspension out seems cheapest/cleanest, but seems like may raise issues if car is taken to dealership, anyone have had issues with this? if an EDC module is the way to go, any difference between the diff ones (kw, ohlins etc)?

TIA

I would do the 2 ways, you can actually feel every click on the track. I run 700/600 (rear coil over) and when I turn the compression down to 2 and rebound is 7 is pretty compliant on the street. It’s not a daily but I drive it on the street a decent amount.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

kind of a thread jack - OP or mod if this is inappropriate please delete.

I have a dual duty M3 (street tires, no aero, realistically 6 events a year), deciding between 1wnr and 2wnr. price difference not big so leaning towards 2wnr. eventually will move onto stickier tires/more hardcore build once I retire this car as a daily in a few years, so having dual adjustability would be nice. Have a couple of questions:

1.Bimmerworld recommends 600/900 lbs/in rates, that seems a little high for my use, no?
2. Any comments on the linear valving of the 1wnr vs the more digressive of the 2wnr?
3. Coding adaptive suspension out seems cheapest/cleanest, but seems like may raise issues if car is taken to dealership, anyone have had issues with this? if an EDC module is the way to go, any difference between the diff ones (kw, ohlins etc)?

TIA

I like those spring rates. It is definitely biased to performance, but I have heard that MCS dampers are paired very nicely with stiff springs. Another plus is that you probably won't ever bottom out with those spring rates. If you're still hesitant, you can pair the front 600 with a 175 or 200 tender spring. This will give you more of a "progressive" type spring.

My opinion on the 1WNR vs 2WNR.... Keep in mind that the NR dampers have all of the mechanisms packed into the shock body, so the 2WNR will have less piston travel due to the space needed for the second adjustment. This doesn't really matter if you keep the ride height at a reasonable level.

Now if you can muster up the funds to go to 3WR, I can't recommend this enough. The ability to adjust low-speed/hi-speed compression and have the extra travel of the remote canisters is such a luxury; especially for street use. I would rather skip out on wheels in order to upgrade to a 3-way. But going remote canisters does take more commitment in installation and other "tools".

One more thing to keep in mind... they say you "can" technically upgrade the 1WNR to a 3WR later on if you wanted (can't upgrade with the 2WNR). But you should get a quote on how much that would cost. Some say it's not even worth doing from a cost perspective. So while it's nice to have that option, it's kind of pointless.

Lastly, I totally understand how most people don't want to fuss with more adjustment options so a 1-way adjustable coilover is very popular; I'd even say it makes sense for most people. But if you really want to dial in your damping, then a 1-way just won't cut it. Also, damper adjustment isn't some sort of dark magic; it's pretty easy to understand how all the adjustments work and how they translate to your car in the real world.

Hope this has helped. Good luck.

[heyyouduh]

Originally Posted by x.shell

I like those spring rates. It is definitely biased to performance, but I have heard that MCS dampers are paired very nicely with stiff springs. Another plus is that you probably won't ever bottom out with those spring rates. If you're still hesitant, you can pair the front 600 with a 175 or 200 tender spring. This will give you more of a "progressive" type spring.

My opinion on the 1WNR vs 2WNR.... Keep in mind that the NR dampers have all of the mechanisms packed into the shock body, so the 2WNR will have less piston travel due to the space needed for the second adjustment. This doesn't really matter if you keep the ride height at a reasonable level.

Now if you can muster up the funds to go to 3WR, I can't recommend this enough. The ability to adjust low-speed/hi-speed compression and have the extra travel of the remote canisters is such a luxury; especially for street use. I would rather skip out on wheels in order to upgrade to a 3-way. But going remote canisters does take more commitment in installation and other "tools".

One more thing to keep in mind... they say you "can" technically upgrade the 1WNR to a 3WR later on if you wanted (can't upgrade with the 2WNR). But you should get a quote on how much that would cost. Some say it's not even worth doing from a cost perspective. So while it's nice to have that option, it's kind of pointless.

Lastly, I totally understand how most people don't want to fuss with more adjustment options so a 1-way adjustable coilover is very popular; I'd even say it makes sense for most people. But if you really want to dial in your damping, then a 1-way just won't cut it. Also, damper adjustment isn't some sort of dark magic; it's pretty easy to understand how all the adjustments work and how they translate to your car in the real world.

Hope this has helped. Good luck.

Thanks. I've spent the past few weeks reading this forum and many of your posts. Those are the rates BimmerWorld recommended, I was more concerned about higher rates being too much for street tires.

Originally I was going to go 1WNR but was told by BimmerWorld the upgrade costs to a multi adjustable remote set up in the future isn't really cheap and that I'd be better off selling the used 1WNR and buying new.

I'm leaning towards 2WNR, not planning to lower much, probably set at the recommended height. Cost wise it is only <$1000 more than 1WNR, whereas the difference between the 2WNR and 2WR is around $2000.

IIRC you have or are using JRZs or was that another member? I was also considering the JRZ RS 2 sport version which is around the same ballpark as price as the MCS 1wnr/2wnr, and AST 5200s (monotube, inverse strut) as they came recommended by PSi whom I've dealt with before and find to be knowledgeable. Likely end up going MCS as they're local and everything based stateside and seem to be the most popular currently.

Thanks again.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

Thanks. I've spent the past few weeks reading this forum and many of your posts. Those are the rates BimmerWorld recommended, I was more concerned about higher rates being too much for street tires.

Originally I was going to go 1WNR but was told by BimmerWorld the upgrade costs to a multi adjustable remote set up in the future isn't really cheap and that I'd be better off selling the used 1WNR and buying new.

I'm leaning towards 2WNR, not planning to lower much, probably set at the recommended height. Cost wise it is only <$1000 more than 1WNR, whereas the difference between the 2WNR and 2WR is around $2000.

IIRC you have or are using JRZs or was that another member? I was also considering the JRZ RS 2 sport version which is around the same ballpark as price as the MCS 1wnr/2wnr, and AST 5200s (monotube, inverse strut) as they came recommended by PSi whom I've dealt with before and find to be knowledgeable. Likely end up going MCS as they're local and everything based stateside and seem to be the most popular currently.

Thanks again.

Yep. I'm on JRZs. I started this thread with the same questions as you. After starting this thread and getting information from Bimmerworld and other members here, I ended up going with JRZ RS Pro 3-way instead. It just made more sense for me since I could reuse a lot of components from my previous RS2 kit. The support for the JRZ kit was also very good.

[heyyouduh]

Originally Posted by x.shell

Yep. I'm on JRZs. I started this thread with the same questions as you. After starting this thread and getting information from Bimmerworld and other members here, I ended up going with JRZ RS Pro 3-way instead. It just made more sense for me since I could reuse a lot of components from my previous RS2 kit.

oh yea, all these threads are starting to run together now lol.

I want to give them a try as well, but I've been conditioned to think twin tube as inferior and seems like MCS has more supporters at the moment.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

oh yea, all these threads are starting to run together now lol.

I want to give them a try as well, but I've been conditioned to think twin tube as inferior and seems like MCS has more supporters at the moment.

Yeah the RS2 is twin tube design. The RS Pros are mono tube. It was one of the deciding factors for upgrading.

[rborane]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

kind of a thread jack - OP or mod if this is inappropriate please delete.

I have a dual duty M3 (street tires, no aero, realistically 6 events a year), deciding between 1wnr and 2wnr. price difference not big so leaning towards 2wnr. eventually will move onto stickier tires/more hardcore build once I retire this car as a daily in a few years, so having dual adjustability would be nice. Have a couple of questions:

1.Bimmerworld recommends 600/900 lbs/in rates, that seems a little high for my use, no?
2. Any comments on the linear valving of the 1wnr vs the more digressive of the 2wnr?
3. Coding adaptive suspension out seems cheapest/cleanest, but seems like may raise issues if car is taken to dealership, anyone have had issues with this? if an EDC module is the way to go, any difference between the diff ones (kw, ohlins etc)?

TIA

That's exactly what I run. 1WNR with 6" 600lb front Eibach spring & hyperco helper, and 8" 900lb rear Eibach (divorced) with the ground control rear weight jacks.

The ride isn't overly stiff at all and is the perfect mix for a dual duty car. Getting it corner balanced and aligned (-2.2F / -1.7R) made a big difference as well.

I may convert to true rear coilover eventually, but Bimmerworld recommended the 1WNR divorced for my use and simplicity. Cant recommend it enough.

[heyyouduh]

Originally Posted by rborane

That's exactly what I run. 1WNR with 6" 600lb front Eibach spring & hyperco helper, and 8" 900lb rear Eibach (divorced) with the ground control rear weight jacks.

The ride isn't overly stiff at all and is the perfect mix for a dual duty car. Getting it corner balanced and aligned (-2.2F / -1.7R) made a big difference as well.

I may convert to true rear coilover eventually, but Bimmerworld recommended the 1WNR divorced for my use and simplicity. Cant recommend it enough.

Good to know re the spring rates. Can you compare it to stock in terms of ride quality? And did you get a code out or edc delete module (if you had adaptive)? Assuming you went through BW, did you get the front upper control arm bearing upgrade as well?

I vacillate between 1wnr and 2wnr... I know I don't NEED separate compression and rebound adjustment but there's not a big price difference. On the other hand in the future I want to leave the option open to potentially upgrade from 1wnr to 2w remotes although it seems like the upgrade isnt necessarily cheaper than selling the entire set up and buying a new set up.

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

Good to know re the spring rates. Can you compare it to stock in terms of ride quality? And did you get a code out or edc delete module (if you had adaptive)? Assuming you went through BW, did you get the front upper control arm bearing upgrade as well?

I vacillate between 1wnr and 2wnr... I know I don't NEED separate compression and rebound adjustment but there's not a big price difference. On the other hand in the future I want to leave the option open to potentially upgrade from 1wnr to 2w remotes although it seems like the upgrade isnt necessarily cheaper than selling the entire set up and buying a new set up.

I had a friend who started with 1w and after seeing my 2w perform in front of him, he prepped his setup to sell so he can fully upgrade to a 2w.

[heyyouduh]

Originally Posted by x.shell

Yeah the RS2 is twin tube design. The RS Pros are mono tube. It was one of the deciding factors for upgrading.

how were the RS2s on track? Seems like major complaint is the noise issues, did you encounter any fade in performance throughout a 20 min session?

t=

[heyyouduh]

Originally Posted by sc_tr0jan_m3

I had a friend who started with 1w and after seeing my 2w perform in front of him, he prepped his setup to sell so he can fully upgrade to a 2w.

do you have the remote 2 ways or non remote? what spring rates? I'll occasionally drive babies around so a little concerned about 600/900# rates

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by heyyouduh

do you have the remote 2 ways or non remote? what spring rates? I'll occasionally drive babies around so a little concerned about 600/900# rates

600/900 is perfectly fine with MCS. I'm running 800/1200 on both track cars and have no issues driving 500 miles. With lowered compression they feel nice and soft, even floaty.