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      08-24-2018, 07:42 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humpday View Post
Hey guys. What's a reasonable cost for labor in installing camber plates, including alignment? Over $1000 sounds a little high (actually a lot high).
Yeah, that's high. I paid $450 or $90/hr for my JRZ Pro install ( Dampers, springs, camber plates, securing external disconnects etc) and another $250 for an alignment and corner balance.
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      08-25-2018, 01:56 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by jdherman View Post
Check out my alignment and corner balancing numbers here.

I use these settings all the time, both street and track and am happy with the results.
Thanks for this.

Do you find you get even tyre wear?
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      04-16-2019, 07:41 AM   #47
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i apologize for polluting the thread, but i'm kinda lost in all this. This weekend i'm going to both Spa & Nordschleife and i have no clue how to setup the alignment. Currently it is as my dealership set it up. I've done some track days on a small track nearby with this setup and it was ok'ish (i have no comparison). I'd like to get somewhere nearby the compromise between road and track setup - by that i mean it should still be driveable on the streets and have more or less even tyre wear, but also maybe use the suspension potential a little bit more. The suspension is KW V4 - in M4 GTS config (rebound, low speed compression, high speed compression) for road/Nordschleife. Also did nordschleife before with stock suspension and stock alignment - it was slow but no body shop appointments were required afterwards.

Can someone please correct me if i'm wrong below?
i want even tyre wear so the camber should be max -2 degrees on any wheel. I was thinking front -2, rear -1.5. But then again GTS has more camber in the rear than in the front, based on settings in this thread people rather do the opposite.
Front toe should be close to 0 (but someone wrote it's not that great for street).
Rear toe - here's where i don't get it. i know it should be positive. The car has slightly bigger tyre than in the specs on the rear axle (285/35R19).

Do you have any suggestions on where to begin my "adventure" with alignment settings? I'm looking for something slightly more track oriented, but still some kind of safe baseline from which i could move towards more 'spirited driving' settings.

I get it's more or less hit & miss and up to personal preference/skills, but maybe there are some universal rules to follow. I googled it, but what i've found doesn't seem to match with people's settings in this thread.
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      04-16-2019, 10:02 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyrunner86 View Post
i apologize for polluting the thread, but i'm kinda lost in all this. This weekend i'm going to both Spa & Nordschleife and i have no clue how to setup the alignment. Currently it is as my dealership set it up. I've done some track days on a small track nearby with this setup and it was ok'ish (i have no comparison). I'd like to get somewhere nearby the compromise between road and track setup - by that i mean it should still be driveable on the streets and have more or less even tyre wear, but also maybe use the suspension potential a little bit more. The suspension is KW V4 - in M4 GTS config (rebound, low speed compression, high speed compression) for road/Nordschleife. Also did nordschleife before with stock suspension and stock alignment - it was slow but no body shop appointments were required afterwards.

Can someone please correct me if i'm wrong below?
i want even tyre wear so the camber should be max -2 degrees on any wheel. I was thinking front -2, rear -1.5. But then again GTS has more camber in the rear than in the front, based on settings in this thread people rather do the opposite.
Front toe should be close to 0 (but someone wrote it's not that great for street).
Rear toe - here's where i don't get it. i know it should be positive. The car has slightly bigger tyre than in the specs on the rear axle (285/35R19).

Do you have any suggestions on where to begin my "adventure" with alignment settings? I'm looking for something slightly more track oriented, but still some kind of safe baseline from which i could move towards more 'spirited driving' settings.

I get it's more or less hit & miss and up to personal preference/skills, but maybe there are some universal rules to follow. I googled it, but what i've found doesn't seem to match with people's settings in this thread.
Start here:

-2.6deg front camber
-1.8-2.0 rear camber

0deg front toe (total)
0.1-0.2deg rear toe (total)

This is a perfectly acceptable street/track setup. If you want more track oriented go higher on the camber, if you want stock-like go with less camber. This setup is fine for tire wear on the street but will still wear the outer edge of tires before the inside (not quite balanced inside to outside). The toe allows for no craziness on the freeways but still feels good at 145mph going hard into a brake zone.
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      04-24-2019, 03:04 AM   #49
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What are the 4 corner weights you guys are referencing? In not familiar :
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      04-24-2019, 08:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezzracer View Post
What are the 4 corner weights you guys are referencing? In not familiar :
They're talking about aftermarket coilovers that have height adjustment. You set the car on scales and try to get a fairly even weight distribution, ideally with the driver weight factored in.

Not relevant with the factory or other non adjustable suspension.
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      04-24-2019, 10:48 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Start here:

-2.6deg front camber
-1.8-2.0 rear camber

0deg front toe (total)
0.1-0.2deg rear toe (total)

This is a perfectly acceptable street/track setup. If you want more track oriented go higher on the camber, if you want stock-like go with less camber. This setup is fine for tire wear on the street but will still wear the outer edge of tires before the inside (not quite balanced inside to outside). The toe allows for no craziness on the freeways but still feels good at 145mph going hard into a brake zone.
+1

On my stock car, adding that little bit of additional positive rear toe (ie rear toe in) was very helpful.

My car came from factory with almost zero rear toe and adding the toe in helped with stability on corner exit
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      04-27-2019, 11:21 PM   #52
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-3.2 fronts
-1.7 rear
Ohlins RT coilovers
Nitto 305 rear and 275 front on Apex 18" wheels
GC camber plates
Had the car corner balanced

Absolutely love this setup
Next I will installing sway bars either Dinan or AFE

Chris
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      08-26-2019, 09:23 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tooth View Post
-3.2 fronts
-1.7 rear
Ohlins RT coilovers
Nitto 305 rear and 275 front on Apex 18" wheels
GC camber plates
Had the car corner balanced

Absolutely love this setup
Next I will installing sway bars either Dinan or AFE

Chris
Do you not get ridiculous inside wear with -3.2 front camber?

What are your tire temps after sessions?
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      08-26-2019, 03:09 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
Start here:

-2.6deg front camber
-1.8-2.0 rear camber

0deg front toe (total)
0.1-0.2deg rear toe (total)

This is a perfectly acceptable street/track setup. If you want more track oriented go higher on the camber, if you want stock-like go with less camber. This setup is fine for tire wear on the street but will still wear the outer edge of tires before the inside (not quite balanced inside to outside). The toe allows for no craziness on the freeways but still feels good at 145mph going hard into a brake zone.
+1

Toe eats tires much faster than camber. This is a good 'set and forget' setpoint
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      01-25-2020, 01:31 PM   #55
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Anyone know what the factory camber and toe are for the M3 CS?
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      02-04-2020, 10:46 PM   #56
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Thanks all. Going to leverage some of these settings.

Separately, for those who corner balanced - how much leeway is there in the stock suspension to allow for balancing without preloading sways, etc.? Put another way, with a mild drop should one not even bother corner balancing the car without also having the full set of adjustable end links and adjustable toe links?
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      03-09-2020, 03:19 PM   #57
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Why is everyone so focused on increasing camber only? Isn't anyone increasing caster to avoid wearing out the inside of the tires and get better breaking performance?
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      03-10-2020, 09:48 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by M 4 FUN View Post
Why is everyone so focused on increasing camber only? Isn't anyone increasing caster to avoid wearing out the inside of the tires and get better breaking performance?
You'll have to explain that one to me... I don't see how caster can do that.
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      03-10-2020, 09:49 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmg View Post
Anyone know what the factory camber and toe are for the M3 CS?
Same as all the others.

Only the GTS has different alignment specs.
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      03-25-2020, 03:16 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M 4 FUN View Post
Why is everyone so focused on increasing camber only? Isn't anyone increasing caster to avoid wearing out the inside of the tires and get better breaking performance?
You'll have to explain that one to me... I don't see how caster can do that.
If you understand caster then you understand what he means. Caster provides the ability to run less camber for a bigger contact patch while driving in a straight line but will also increase camber as the wheel turns left or right thru a turn. Caster is something that your average alignment shop probably won't know how to adjust for track duty. That's why if you have the adjustability, it's very important to get it aligned by a ship known for track alignments.
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      03-25-2020, 03:19 AM   #61
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Coming from an E36, -2.3 to -3.0 sounds extremely low. I'm guessing due to weight, the camber is a lot less or is this because the lack of adjustability that Bmw offers with OEM control arms? Anyone know the camber numbers on the GT4 cars?
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      03-25-2020, 05:20 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N3_Gabe View Post
If you understand caster then you understand what he means. Caster provides the ability to run less camber for a bigger contact patch while driving in a straight line but will also increase camber as the wheel turns left or right thru a turn. Caster is something that your average alignment shop probably won't know how to adjust for track duty. That's why if you have the adjustability, it's very important to get it aligned by a ship known for track alignments.
Indeed, I hadn't thought about that. Thanks for the explanation. I didn’t consider that the camber variation due to caster would be that significant.
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      03-25-2020, 07:46 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N3_Gabe View Post
If you understand caster then you understand what he means. Caster provides the ability to run less camber for a bigger contact patch while driving in a straight line but will also increase camber as the wheel turns left or right thru a turn. Caster is something that your average alignment shop probably won't know how to adjust for track duty. That's why if you have the adjustability, it's very important to get it aligned by a ship known for track alignments.
Interesting.... are there any negatives/trade-offs to this kind of caster adjustment?

Thanks for the education -- caster has always been something difficult to wrap my head around.
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      03-25-2020, 07:53 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfritz27 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by N3_Gabe View Post
If you understand caster then you understand what he means. Caster provides the ability to run less camber for a bigger contact patch while driving in a straight line but will also increase camber as the wheel turns left or right thru a turn. Caster is something that your average alignment shop probably won't know how to adjust for track duty. That's why if you have the adjustability, it's very important to get it aligned by a ship known for track alignments.
Interesting.... are there any negatives/trade-offs to this kind of caster adjustment?

Thanks for the education -- caster has always been something difficult to wrap my head around.
To be honest, I'm not an alignment guru and I'm also barely beginning to gain the knowledge myself so I am not sure. I just know what I've said is the basic idea behind wanting to adjust your caster angle.
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      03-26-2020, 08:15 AM   #65
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I didnt know there was camber plates with caster adjustment as well. My TCKline ones just had camber and caster change incorporated into the same movement of the strut. It provided quite a big improvement to caster if I remember correctly.
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      03-26-2020, 08:24 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioRiderAaron View Post
I didnt know there was camber plates with caster adjustment as well. My TCKline ones just had camber and caster change incorporated into the same movement of the strut. It provided quite a big improvement to caster if I remember correctly.
To make it simple, side-to-side movement of the top bearing changes camber, front-aft movement of the top bearing alter caster. If you plates only have a linear adjustability, it depends how that line is lined up. The GC camber plates have dual independent adjustability.

What is your caster setting?
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