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      08-03-2016, 01:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwalk View Post
Your car looks great! I'd be very interested how that square setup works on track...I guess steering must be a bit special with 10 in front...isn't there too much understeering then?
I would like to know this as well! How does the rear behave with a 265? Thanks OP.
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      08-03-2016, 06:08 PM   #24
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I'm hoping to get down to the track for at least two full days at then end of next week. I'll report back on the new setup after that.

BTW - How is it that MORE rubber in the front (wider tires) would induce MORE understeer? What am I missing?
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      08-03-2016, 07:15 PM   #25
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Love the setup!
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      08-03-2016, 07:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hwalk View Post
Your car looks great! I'd be very interested how that square setup works on track...I guess steering must be a bit special with 10 in front...isn't there too much understeering then?
I also started out as the OP with a 10" wide square setup (albeit in 18" size) to be able to balance tire wear through better rotations. That formula worked great for me on my E9X so I decided to stick with it on me F8X. Installing a wider front tire actuall REDUCES understeer.

The problem with this setup is that the S55 has so much low end torque, that I could not put all th power down coming out of corners. I had to be quite patient with the throttle. While the setup worked decently well, I could not take full advantage of the S55 explosive power. I've since switched to a staggered setup with 11" wide rear tires. This combo is fantastic.
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      08-03-2016, 08:03 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
I also started out as the OP with a 10" wide square setup (albeit in 18" size) to be able to balance tire wear through better rotations. That formula worked great for me on my E9X so I decided to stick with it on me F8X. Installing a wider front tire actuall REDUCES understeer.

The problem with this setup is that the S55 has so much low end torque, that I could not put all th power down coming out of corners. I had to be quite patient with the throttle. While the setup worked decently well, I could not take full advantage of the S55 explosive power. I've since switched to a staggered setup with 11" wide rear tires. This combo is fantastic.
Is there that much more rear grip with a 305 wide NT01 in comparison to a 275? I would think there is not be a big difference in ultimate levels of grip but mostly a change in the car's characteristics at the limit, no?
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      08-03-2016, 10:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YMB_M3 View Post
Is there that much more rear grip with a 305 wide NT01 in comparison to a 275? I would think there is not be a big difference in ultimate levels of grip but mostly a change in the car's characteristics at the limit, no?
The difference in grip can certainly be felt since the car is driven "at the limit" on track . I can get on the power much sooner with the 305.
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      08-04-2016, 12:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3
Quote:
Originally Posted by YMB_M3 View Post
Is there that much more rear grip with a 305 wide NT01 in comparison to a 275? I would think there is not be a big difference in ultimate levels of grip but mostly a change in the car's characteristics at the limit, no?
The difference in grip can certainly be felt since the car is driven "at the limit" on track . I can get on the power much sooner with the 305.
What wheels/tires are you running now?
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      08-04-2016, 02:32 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by BitchinManWheels View Post
What wheels/tires are you running now?
Sorry OP, I don't want to as this is a 19" wheel thread.

Apex EC-7 18x10ET25 and 18x11ET44 (I kept the same front wheels).
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      08-04-2016, 12:54 PM   #31
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Thanks for sharing your experiences guys! I'll plan to get 19 inch OZ HLT Ultraleggera in 9 and 10 inch and will put on PSC2 with 265 front and 295 rear. I'll have to choose a set up with TÜV approval as I have to drive to the tracks with the M4. Great Thread, and thanks again!
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      08-15-2016, 02:46 PM   #32
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[UPDATE]

I went down to the track for a couple of days at the end of last week. Square setup is great. Wheels work well and I still really like the PSC2's. -2.7 degrees of camber now with 10 inch wide wheels all around. Car handles really well and I just completed a full "X" rotation when I got back from the track to balance wear (for next time).

Turned in my best lap time on the south track, but that could be related to any number of changes: camber, wheels/tires, more track time, or a combination of all...

19x10 square setup is a win... Especially if it helps cut my track tire costs in half... Glad I made this change...
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      08-22-2016, 03:00 PM   #33
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What tire pressures for a square setup would you guys recommend? 36 psi hot F&R?

Last edited by elmerzasty; 08-22-2016 at 03:09 PM..
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      08-26-2016, 01:21 PM   #34
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36-37 hot is what I'm running right now. ...and the the fronts are obviously hotter than the rears. Starting at about 30 front and 32 rear cold seems to get there pretty closely in the current ambient. I haven't started messing with those values yet...
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      09-06-2016, 02:29 PM   #35
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off topic but how are your rotors? how many miles have you tracked on them?
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      09-06-2016, 05:06 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanAutM3 View Post
Sorry OP, I don't want to as this is a 19" wheel thread.

Apex EC-7 18x10ET25 and 18x11ET44 (I kept the same front wheels).
I'm planning on going with that wheel setup as well, but Apex is currently out of stock on the 18"x11" rear wheels. Which tires/sizes are you running with that wheel setup?
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      09-06-2016, 05:23 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by dumpm3 View Post
off topic but how are your rotors? how many miles have you tracked on them?
I'm not really counting "Track Miles" but after recently weighing the front left rotor it looks like I'm about 70% done on the fronts. (My Front Left sees the heaviest use at my home track). I have done about 7 full track days and I work the car pretty hard. Each track day consists of 5-6 25 full on sessions at 25 minutes each... (I've already been through a set of pads on the fronts after 4 days).

Hope this helps...
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      09-06-2016, 05:24 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD ///M4 View Post
I'm planning on going with that wheel setup as well, but Apex is currently out of stock on the 18"x11" rear wheels. Which tires/sizes are you running with that wheel setup?
Did you READ the first post?
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      09-06-2016, 06:46 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanevery View Post
I'm not really counting "Track Miles" but after recently weighing the front left rotor it looks like I'm about 70% done on the fronts. (My Front Left sees the heaviest use at my home track). I have done about 7 full track days and I work the car pretty hard. Each track day consists of 5-6 25 full on sessions at 25 minutes each... (I've already been through a set of pads on the fronts after 4 days).

Hope this helps...
thanks for sharing. sucks to here these rotors won't last long if being tracked. how about the ware indicator? how is that looking at 70% done haha.
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      09-07-2016, 12:24 PM   #40
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The wear indicators still have some life in them. That's why I wanted to pull one of the rotors off and weigh it. I chose the one which I expect would have the most wear...

Its not a secret that the CCB Rotors will wear much more quickly if you are actually "using" them. On the street, they will likely last the lifetime of the vehicle but at track temps they will start to "burn out" as they are used. (I actually once melted a lead wheel weight from the heat radiated by one of my CCB rotors...)

...anyway, the deciding factor is if you think the added cost is worth the extra performance. If steel (iron) and CCB were the same cost, there would be no debate. In my experience, the CCB's bite earlier, ramp up more linearly, never fade, don't scream like a banshee, and always respond predictably. They are also significantly lighter and don't produce iron brake dust. (The carbon dust just rinses off or blows off on its own)

I like 'em. Once I figure out how often they will have to be replaced, then I can make a more informed decision if I think they are worth the added expense. Of course, that's also a pretty subjective consideration...
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      09-07-2016, 02:15 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanevery View Post
The wear indicators still have some life in them. That's why I wanted to pull one of the rotors off and weigh it. I chose the one which I expect would have the most wear...

Its not a secret that the CCB Rotors will wear much more quickly if you are actually "using" them. On the street, they will likely last the lifetime of the vehicle but at track temps they will start to "burn out" as they are used. (I actually once melted a lead wheel weight from the heat radiated by one of my CCB rotors...)

...anyway, the deciding factor is if you think the added cost is worth the extra performance. If steel (iron) and CCB were the same cost, there would be no debate. In my experience, the CCB's bite earlier, ramp up more linearly, never fade, don't scream like a banshee, and always respond predictably. They are also significantly lighter and don't produce iron brake dust. (The carbon dust just rinses off or blows off on its own)

I like 'em. Once I figure out how often they will have to be replaced, then I can make a more informed decision if I think they are worth the added expense. Of course, that's also a pretty subjective consideration...

appreciate the detailed response bro. I bought my M4 with CCB second hand and i know the previous owner tracked the car couple times prior. May be ill get them weigh to see how much life is left before i take it on the track.
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      09-07-2016, 05:41 PM   #42
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If you are going to track your car then you probably want to get one of the fronts weighed to see where you're at... If you are not going to track the car, then you can probably rest easy if the wear indicators still show some life...

$0.02
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      09-07-2016, 07:17 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanevery View Post
If you are going to track your car then you probably want to get one of the fronts weighed to see where you're at... If you are not going to track the car, then you can probably rest easy if the wear indicators still show some life...

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will do! as for weighing the rotor, is there a specific scale i need to use?
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      09-08-2016, 10:54 AM   #44
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The min weight in grams is printed on each rotor. You would need a scale accurate to at least 1 gram (or .01 ounces if you are OK doing the conversion)...
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