10-15-2019, 01:46 AM | #1 |
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DIY Rogue Monoball F8X
Tools needed for this job are:
8mm socket for wheel liner T30 socket for removal of 1 bolt holding cooler Zip ties to keep cooler out of the way while removing long bolt 18mm socket and extension to get bolt from frame side of thrust arm 21mm and T40 sockets for removal of nut at bottom of knuckle(21mm wrench for installation of the nut) Hydraulic press or my preference of a bushing tool from FCP Euro Grease for installation of monoball Remove wheel Remove wheel liner Remove T30 bolt from cooler Lift cooler up out of two rubber grommets at bottom of cooler Zip tie cooler to something high in the wheel well, being mindful of not kinking any of the rubber hoses Remove 18mm bolt from frame Remove the 21mm nut at the bottom of the knuckle. It will likely come off without the use of the T40, but likely will be needed along with your wrench to install. Remove thrust arm from vehicle Press out oe bushing Pre grease side of monoball and inside top edge of thrust arm Press on Monoball with large side facing out Install body side 18mm bolt first and tighten to 81 ft/lbs Install arm into knuckle Put closed end of wrench on nut, then T40 on your ratchet and turn the ratchet counter clockwise, which will thread nut onto thrust arm, tighten to 60 ft/lbs Re-install wheel liner Re-install wheel |
10-15-2019, 04:04 PM | #4 |
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Gotta support the community! This forum has helped me on many jobs
I could not agree more. According to FCP Euro this press was not for the F8X, so I considered going to my local shop, but when they quoted me $175 for pressing off the old bush, and installing the monoball if I drop off my thrust arms I decided to take my chances with buying the Press tool. Sure glad I did! |
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10-23-2019, 03:23 PM | #5 |
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I’ve write up
What is your feedback with respect to NVH after the install? I have the fall line units and it was, far and away, the noisiest upgrade I’ve made to my car. It seems to be noisier inside the cabin than out. I’ve even considered taking them out because of it. |
10-23-2019, 07:47 PM | #6 | |
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Maybe talk to Ben at Rogue and have him hook you up to convince you to change over to the dark side. haha |
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10-23-2019, 07:57 PM | #7 | |
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Last edited by M2C AW; 10-23-2019 at 08:28 PM.. |
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10-23-2019, 08:07 PM | #8 |
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The only bolt I ever replace is oil drain plug, haha. I re used all hardware on this job, and am having no noise issues. If I develop any, I would consider springing for a new $12+ bolt.
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10-24-2019, 05:21 PM | #11 | |
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In my estimation doing the monoball is just a small part of tuning your suspension, but regardless of how small a contribution I will always do it to any car I know will be doing any track time at all. Not the most scientific review, but just my anecdotal experience. |
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10-24-2019, 05:22 PM | #12 |
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Dropped that puppy at the post office this morning. Looking like a Saturday delivery at the latest. Safe bet would be to get those arms off your car Friday night or Saturday morning and wait for your carrier to get that thing into your hands.
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10-27-2019, 09:06 AM | #13 | |
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thanks |
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10-27-2019, 09:24 AM | #14 | |
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10-27-2019, 12:52 PM | #15 |
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Nice write up... fwiw I had the rogue monoballs on my e90 and then went with the fall line’s on my f80 as they were available sooner. Put almost 60k miles on the fall lines and from the beginning I noticed more nvh than I remembered on the e90 w/ the rogues, and it only increased over time. Only when hitting sharp bumps and turning while stationary, but in both cases they improved steering feel at all speeds while eliminating toe change and allowing the abs to work less while braking and hitting bumps at the limit of traction, def a great mod. Only other thing I can add is that while not absolutely critical, it’s best to torque the bolts for the ftab bushings at rideheight not full droop, I redid this with the fall lines and it eliminated the clicking while turning for a long time until it finally came back after 45k miles and 4 years, I’m assuming from stiction caused by dirt and debris as they don’t have rubber seals, but could be rebuilt with fresh inserts, the fall lines that is.
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11-09-2019, 06:41 AM | #16 |
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02-10-2020, 08:42 AM | #17 |
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For those that DIY’d this...
1). How long did it take you to remove and re-install the arms not counting monoball press out/in time? 2). Did you have to use a pickle fork for the ball joint at the knuckle or did it just pop off easily? |
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02-10-2020, 03:12 PM | #18 | |
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No pickle fork for me, but at the time my car had maybe 23k miles, and I’m also in California where we get minimal rain and no snow. After removing nut from ball joint, and a little wiggle on the knuckle it literally is like fall of the bone ribs. Honestly its a 2/10 difficulty. |
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02-11-2020, 06:24 AM | #19 | |
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02-13-2020, 02:34 PM | #20 | |
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At 13k miles them puppies are gonna fall off! |
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02-14-2020, 07:52 PM | #21 |
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Crap! My ball joints are not coming out of the knuckle. Both sides stuck. I just don’t understand as this car has never seen salt. The nut came right off.
Any suggestions? |
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02-16-2020, 09:57 PM | #22 | |
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You can start with some spray lube onto the ball joint, then let it sit. Then you can hit the arm with a rubber mallet, but whatever you do, do not hit the ball joint itself. You can also thread the nut back on a few threads, and very gently tap the nut with the rubber mallet. |
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