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      03-31-2025, 10:45 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by b_w. View Post
Have the pan off. lots of chunks of gasket, sealant etc. Also some chunks of harder stuff. All the big pieces you see are the sealant. its soft and squishy. Wish I saved that oil filter to compare to this but it does seem like material is coming off somewhere.

I am having one of those moments where I am thinking, now that I am here now what?

Game plan is to temporarily reinstall the exhaust cam and timing components so I can rotate the motor and pop some of the caps off. If anyone can weight in on this I believe I would risk valve and piston contact, the intake cam is still installed but timing chain removed, if I turn it over out of timing.

I believe the oil pump has to come off to find the bearing codes but will maybe wait to see how a few of the further back bearings look first.

I dont have any assembly lube. Will wheel bearing grease be ok for turning the motor over by hand on the exhaust cam? ... quick google tells me wheel bearing grease is a bad idea!
valve and piston contact is not a big deal if you're turning it over by hand

Use either oil or assembly lube. This is the assembly lube I use on S54/S65 rod bearing jobs. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-RED8...0&sr=8-16&th=1
At some point my brother and I will do a S55 rod bearing DIY! But not this season
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      03-31-2025, 11:40 PM   #112
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Here are the rod bearings. Let me know what you think. Pics didnt load in the order I added them so not necessarily in order. I started at #6 and moved up. Havent pulled the oil pump yet to check #1. Will do that tomorrow. Was able to pull my bearing codes rrrrrr so will chat with the Bimmerworld guys tomorrow on getting new ones ordered.

















Last edited by b_w.; 03-31-2025 at 11:47 PM..
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      04-01-2025, 08:12 AM   #113
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They don't look great, that's for sure. Maybe this winter we do a DIY for these on GTS1.

What are you doing about your cams? The marring on the mating surfaces make me think you need a new head.
This will be an increasingly common problem on these cars and I hope someone develops an aftermarket solution. On top of it, only one of the cams is easily replaceable and the one with premature wear is, of course, the other one.
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      04-01-2025, 11:01 AM   #114
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They don't look great, that's for sure. Maybe this winter we do a DIY for these on GTS1.

What are you doing about your cams? The marring on the mating surfaces make me think you need a new head.
This will be an increasingly common problem on these cars and I hope someone develops an aftermarket solution. On top of it, only one of the cams is easily replaceable and the one with premature wear is, of course, the other one.
I took the cams into my mechanic and he didnt seem overly concerned about the wear. A few other guys looking at them felt the same. I am a bit conflicted on whether to replace the exhaust cam, ledge and maybe the rockers. Its easy to do while I am there and peace of mind. I will double check the mating surface on the head but it didnt look too bad.

Next step is to check the thrust bearing. Still have not found the debris source yet.

Part of me is thinking new rod bearings, replace the exhaust cam and ledge, maybe rockers, slap it back together, beat the piss out of it for the year and look at a built motor next winter.

Last edited by b_w.; 04-01-2025 at 11:13 AM..
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      04-01-2025, 11:51 AM   #115
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Originally Posted by b_w. View Post
I took the cams into my mechanic and he didnt seem overly concerned about the wear. A few other guys looking at them felt the same. I am a bit conflicted on whether to replace the exhaust cam, ledge and maybe the rockers. Its easy to do while I am there and peace of mind. I will double check the mating surface on the head but it didnt look too bad.

Next step is to check the thrust bearing. Still have not found the debris source yet.

Part of me is thinking new rod bearings, replace the exhaust cam and ledge, maybe rockers, slap it back together, beat the piss out of it for the year and look at a built motor next winter.
so the exhaust cam is the one that you can buy new ledges/etc for?

the thing with a built engine is it won't address the cam topic
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      04-01-2025, 12:09 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
so the exhaust cam is the one that you can buy new ledges/etc for?

the thing with a built engine is it won't address the cam topic
that is correct. exhaust cam is the one that can develop the rattle and wear.
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      04-04-2025, 10:15 AM   #117
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Maybe it’s just me but the oil looks really bad. How many moles do you usually do oil changes?
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      04-04-2025, 11:31 AM   #118
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Maybe it’s just me but the oil looks really bad. How many moles do you usually do oil changes?
usually no more than every 5 or 6 track days. As I mentioned above I do spray some water meth for cooling which maybe is degrading it. I also occasionally ran some ethanol. Max content was 45% but usually around 20 - 25%.

I also parked it in the fall and just changed it. Maybe should have parked it with fresh oil in it. It was only started after the oil was changed.

Last edited by b_w.; 04-04-2025 at 01:22 PM..
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      04-04-2025, 01:50 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b_w. View Post
usually no more than every 5 or 6 track days. As I mentioned above I do spray some water meth for cooling which maybe is degrading it. I also occasionally ran some ethanol. Max content was 45% but usually around 20 - 25%.

I also parked it in the fall and just changed it. Maybe should have parked it with fresh oil in it. It was only started after the oil was changed.

I don’t track my car but I change my oil twice a year and it’s never that bad. If I did track it, I would change after every track day.
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      04-04-2025, 04:00 PM   #120
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I don’t track my car but I change my oil twice a year and it’s never that bad. If I did track it, I would change after every track day.
i think you will find most guys dont do that. every handful of sessions is more common. i am running red line which is supposed to be top quality. I will probably run something cheaper like Castrol or Penzoil 5-40 and change it after each day to start and see if it cleans up.
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      04-06-2025, 08:25 PM   #121
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While I wait for motor parts I started working on a few other projects. At some point last year I bought carbon door cards that I never got around to installing. Stripped the rear doors and the rest of the back seat and trunk. Not sure how much weight I saved but i bet it's close to 30 lbs. Will weigh it eventually.

Will retain window functionality in the rear but won't install any controls in the back. Once i sort out the rears will do the front. Will maintain all controls similar to the team Schirmer f80.

Once I have my Drexler diff in I believe I can pull the ghas module. Thought I read somewhere on the forum that the amp is in the driver side rear well. Without any speakers won't need that either!













Also had a nipple welded on my intake so I can get some vacuum on the crank case again. Who knows if that contributed to some of my oil problems...

Last edited by b_w.; 04-07-2025 at 12:25 AM..
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      04-07-2025, 08:07 PM   #122
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      04-10-2025, 10:49 PM   #123
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Passenger rear door done



Driver rear. Think I drilled through the automatic lock wires so will have some repair to do


Last edited by b_w.; 04-10-2025 at 11:54 PM..
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      04-12-2025, 11:46 AM   #124
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Now that the rear door cards are done I am having 2nd thoughts on the front. Have the cards pulled and speaker removed from the door but not really talking a lot of weight savings. The rear is cleaned up rather than a stripped door but the front is still mostly in tact. What do you guys think? I kept the front portion of the headliner to give it a semi complete look.





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      04-12-2025, 03:04 PM   #125
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Rear seat weight reduction...about 45 lbs. Front door cards are about 6 lbs each so may reconsider....



Last edited by b_w.; 04-12-2025 at 03:12 PM..
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      04-15-2025, 11:20 PM   #126
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Door cards are all done. Happy with how they turned out and some weight saved. Only thing I could have done better was shift the driver door control further back. Can't adjust the mirrors with the door closed All in pulled about 55 lbs out between the insulation, door cards and other useless shit. Combined with the carbon seats, carbon roof, AC delete, and carbon hood interested to see where this will be.nsone weight will go back in with the cage in the back.





A few shots of the gtr hood. Will get this fitted and painted once it's rolling again . First order of bearings and oil pan parts arrive from bimmerworld tomorrow so hope to have the bottom end buttoned up over the long weekend.


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      04-19-2025, 08:59 PM   #127
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Rod bearings are done. Went with the wpc treated OEM bearings and BMW bolts. Went back together nicely. All bearings clearances at about 0.038mm with plastic gauge so in spec. Had to get a new angle torque wrench for the oil pan because my 1/2 inch would not start reading at the 8nm starting point. Got it all buttoned up.

Replaced the lower steering shaft because I mangled it getting the rack off. Cleaned up the rack which was a bit beat up but everything mated up nicely with some anti seize.

Will get the subframe in, motor sitting back on its own weight and will hopefully start in a day or two when my cam parts come in. Way easier pinning the flywheel when the subframe isn't in the way!




online find duplicates
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      04-30-2025, 12:12 AM   #128
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Gtr hood in process . My front intake messes bumper fitment up a bit. 4n designed it with hood pins and the oem latches push the intake pipe lower which pushes the bumper down a bit.Will clean it up once it's back and get it raised up. Think it will look good. It's a motorsport part so needs some cleanup.










how to remove duplicates

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      05-02-2025, 01:11 AM   #129
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Oh yeah!

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      05-06-2025, 01:14 PM   #130
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      05-06-2025, 09:00 PM   #131
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A few more shots. Can see the intake interference so hopefully get the bumper up higher and in line with the hood. Fit was pretty good although needed a lot of prep work.






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      05-07-2025, 12:09 AM   #132
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