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      04-13-2019, 07:18 PM   #89
G4BR13L
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Have you tried updating the car? Looks like it is just a software related issue. When press and holding the volume button on the radio for 30 seconds the iDrive reboots, you donít happen to have installed a phone holder that might be pressing against this button? If not hardware is defect and needs to be replaced.
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      04-13-2019, 07:19 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4BR13L View Post
Have you tried updating the car? Looks like it is just a software related issue. When press and holding the volume button on the radio for 30 seconds the iDrive reboots, you don’t happen to have installed a phone holder that might be pressing against this button?
........I have exactly this. Thank you.
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      04-13-2019, 07:27 PM   #91
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Just hit 32k miles on my 2015 F82 6MT. Absolute tank, but not tempting my horrid luck so I purchased a four year extended warranty. I'm still on factory original warranty and maintenance until late June. I've done zero engine performance mods to the car, the engine is untouched.

I've only had one issue thus far, there was some leaking of water onto the carpet under the driver's side floor mat. Apparently some seal from the engine compartment had become torn, and it was replaced under warranty with no problems since.

I LOVE THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Last edited by NickyC; 04-13-2019 at 07:33 PM..
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      04-14-2019, 10:07 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4BR13L View Post
Have you tried updating the car? Looks like it is just a software related issue. When press and holding the volume button on the radio for 30 seconds the iDrive reboots, you don’t happen to have installed a phone holder that might be pressing against this button? If not hardware is defect and needs to be replaced.
I’ve never done this, doesn’t the car do it itself assuming everything is working properly?

In reference to Pushing the volume control for 30 seconds, under what conditioners will this reset the iDrive? Does the car have to be on or off to be reset or what other conditions do I have to have to proceed with a reset?
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      04-14-2019, 11:35 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortseller View Post
Iíve never done this, doesnít the car do it itself assuming everything is working properly?

In reference to Pushing the volume control for 30 seconds, under what conditioners will this reset the iDrive? Does the car have to be on or off to be reset or what other conditions do I have to have to proceed with a reset?
You donít have to reset because it is the same as leaving the car for 10 minutes. It is just a reboot of iDrive. But I have seen cases where something was pressing this button like a smartphone holder and then the iDrive reboots.
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      04-14-2019, 12:18 PM   #94
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Feeling Screwed

At 23,000 Mi the differential developed a loud whining noise. A dealer close by (because I did not think I could make it another 50 miles to the original purchase dealer) told me that the diff had failed and both the diff and drive shaft must be replaced. So 6 weeks later I get the car back however there were clunking and rattling noises in the drive train. I went to the original purchase dealer who told me that ALL OF THE DIFF MOUNTING BOLTS WERE LOOSE.
The bolts were tightened and I was told there was no damage.
The moral of this story is be very careful where you take you M3 for service/repair.
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      04-14-2019, 12:33 PM   #95
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Quote:
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At 23,000 Mi the differential developed a loud whining noise. A dealer close by (because I did not think I could make it another 50 miles to the original purchase dealer) told me that the diff had failed and both the diff and drive shaft must be replaced. So 6 weeks later I get the car back however there were clunking and rattling noises in the drive train. I went to the original purchase dealer who told me that ALL OF THE DIFF MOUNTING BOLTS WERE LOOSE.
The bolts were tightened and I was told there was no damage.
The moral of this story is be very careful where you take you M3 for service/repair.
Using loctite and the correct torque is crucial here as is using the correct fluid.
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      04-15-2019, 10:40 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Geezer View Post
At 23,000 Mi the differential developed a loud whining noise. A dealer close by (because I did not think I could make it another 50 miles to the original purchase dealer) told me that the diff had failed and both the diff and drive shaft must be replaced. So 6 weeks later I get the car back however there were clunking and rattling noises in the drive train. I went to the original purchase dealer who told me that ALL OF THE DIFF MOUNTING BOLTS WERE LOOSE.
The bolts were tightened and I was told there was no damage.
The moral of this story is be very careful where you take you M3 for service/repair.
Wow
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      04-15-2019, 11:23 PM   #97
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'18 ZCP

20 months, 700 miles per month avg, zero powertrain mods, zero track days... leaking charge cooler replaced under warranty. Check your fluids, gents.

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      04-16-2019, 10:25 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEROK View Post
'18 ZCP

20 months, 700 miles per month avg, zero powertrain mods, zero track days... leaking charge cooler replaced under warranty. Check your fluids, gents.

Quote:
Originally Posted by THEROK View Post
'18 ZCP

20 months, 700 miles per month avg, zero powertrain mods, zero track days... leaking charge cooler replaced under warranty. Check your fluids, gents.

[img]https://image.ibb.co/cf0gD6/file-1.jpg[/img]
That could've turned into a real disaster. Did you catch the leak?


I've got a MY18 with a cracked mpe @6k miles, spun crank hub @12k miles and broken windshield wiper @13k miles. Really hesitant on buying it after the lease now
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      04-17-2019, 12:06 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddevils7 View Post
That could've turned into a real disaster. Did you catch the leak?
Sorry about your issues, man. Nothing gnaws my craw more than an unreliable vehicle. Hopefully no mas bs.

I checked the charge cooler level for the first time about a year into ownership. I randomly ran into the charge cooler leak thread.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1570544

It was at the bottom couple of rungs on the yellow marker which is within spec. Topped it off, and after a drive, it was clear the charge cooler was losing coolant.

Color me lucky.
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      04-17-2019, 12:40 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEROK View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddevils7 View Post
That could've turned into a real disaster. Did you catch the leak?
Sorry about your issues, man. Nothing gnaws my craw more than an unreliable vehicle. Hopefully no mas bs.

I checked the charge cooler level for the first time about a year into ownership. I randomly ran into the charge cooler leak thread.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1570544

It was at the bottom couple of rungs on the yellow marker which is within spec. Topped it off, and after a drive, it was clear the charge cooler was losing coolant.

Color me lucky.
it's all good everything fixed under warranty. I'm just hoping crank hub issue doesn't come back since it's a 2 week repair. luckily they had the intercooler opened up so they should've noticed any leaks on my car but with the track record so far I'll have to keep any eye on it
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      04-30-2019, 03:02 PM   #101
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41k Miles on my 2017 ZCP. BMC Filters & AA Mid-pipe done @ 4k Miles. Everything else stock. Ordered new, took delivery with 3 miles.

- Active Sound Module replaced @ 1,200 Miles
- H/K AMP replaced @ 1,200 Miles
- Break in Service @ 1,200 Miles
- 2nd Service done @ 9,683 Miles
- Replaced both rear brakes shields replaced with updated parts @ 9,683 Miles
- Felt tape applied to center console for rattle @ 9,683 Miles
- Replaced all door seals with updated part @ 9,683 Miles due to squeaking
- (1) Rear tire replaced due to nail, covered under W/T Warranty @ 17,093 Miles
- 3rd Service done @ 19,205 Miles
- (1) Rear tire replaced due to nail, covered under W/T Warranty @ 25,017 Miles
- 4th Service done @ 28,717 Miles + Spark Plugs
- Applied teflon tape to all 4 door seals @ 28,717 Miles
- Wastegate adjustment due to rattle, found to be out of spec @ 28,717 Miles
- Excessive play found in front left suspension causing a clunk, replaced left thrust arm and left tension strut @ 28,717 Miles
- Steering wheel replaced due to leather cracking @ 28,717
- 5th service done @ 38,792 Miles
- Replaced entire leather seat cover, driver side due to cracking @ 38,792 Miles
- Replaced Driver and Passenger seat "M" Logo due to cracking @ 38,792
Miles
- Replaced both front wheel bearing due to noise @ 38,792 Miles
- Replaced entire front left suspension, strut & spring etc due to clunking coming back @ 38,792 Miles
- Performed wheel alignment @ 38,792 Miles

All is well now @ 41k Miles.

Out of pocket cost to date is $290. (Service #5)

I have Geico MBI that will kick in @ 50k - will update at a later date

Last edited by krotondo; 04-30-2019 at 04:30 PM..
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      09-16-2019, 12:55 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickyC View Post
Just hit 32k miles on my 2015 F82 6MT. Absolute tank, but not tempting my horrid luck so I purchased a four year extended warranty. I'm still on factory original warranty and maintenance until late June. I've done zero engine performance mods to the car, the engine is untouched.

I've only had one issue thus far, there was some leaking of water onto the carpet under the driver's side floor mat. Apparently some seal from the engine compartment had become torn, and it was replaced under warranty with no problems since.

I LOVE THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stunning car! What color are those brake calipers? I have a yas marina M4 as well and plan on going with a similar color.
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      09-16-2019, 01:21 AM   #103
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Quote:
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Stunning car! What color are those brake calipers? I have a yas marina M4 as well and plan on going with a similar color.
Thanks man! I asked them for Porsche Mint Green, which I'm not sure was captured exactly 100% but I'm happy with it.

Here's another pic in the sun, they really glow. I wanted something different than the normal black/red/yellow/silver so I think it worked. Good luck!

Nice choice on the best color for the car btw.

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      09-16-2019, 05:58 AM   #104
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5 years and 1 month old, 65k miles, daily driven.

My perspective is this: Not a single issue that is the car's fault, ever.

If I was being really persnickety I'd say:

1. My windshield sprayer pump stopped working due to the filter clogging, which apparently is common when using RainX. Bleh.

2. My M logos on seats have mild crazing in their surface. Bleh.

I get in it, properly warm it up, and then enjoy it immensely within the limits of public roadways. And it's been a delight to own.
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      09-16-2019, 10:35 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeFromPA View Post
5 years and 1 month old, 65k miles, daily driven.

My perspective is this: Not a single issue that is the car's fault, ever.

If I was being really persnickety I'd say:

1. My windshield sprayer pump stopped working due to the filter clogging, which apparently is common when using RainX. Bleh.

2. My M logos on seats have mild crazing in their surface. Bleh.

I get in it, properly warm it up, and then enjoy it immensely within the limits of public roadways. And it's been a delight to own.
45,000 miles

Had my AC evaporator reset...

Phenomenal M3!

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      09-16-2019, 10:39 PM   #106
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I haven't had any issues whatsoever during the two years that I owned my '15 YMB ///M4 and the three years that I've owned my '17 Nardo Gray ///M4.
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      09-16-2019, 11:43 PM   #107
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So far I have 62k miles. Problems I felt were radio not working. Only happen once when it was hot outside. And ac didn't work once or twice. Found out I can press the auto button. Or get it fix for cheap.
Had an alignment n lower my psi setting. So far car doesn't go right on highway, as much.
Saw a puddle on my driveway. It only happen on a hill. I think it's ac condensation. Just found out today as it happened again.
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      09-17-2019, 06:08 AM   #108
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My15. 33800 miles, I just had the ccv system fail. It had a loud whistling sound coming from the engine at idle. When I removed the oil fill cap I felt a huge vacuum going into the engine, and the noise stopped. Same issue with the n55 engines. A rubber diaphragm built into the valve cover degrades over time. The whistling was air trying to get past the rear main seal. Happened Saturday and dropped the car off at bmw. the car is still there. I have a warranty with Carmax, so see what happens today or tomorrow.
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      09-18-2019, 07:58 AM   #109
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2015 m4, purchasers with 26,400 miles in November of 2018.

Currently at 43,xxx and now issues.

Car has been BM3 stage 2 for about 8k mikes, lowered and daily driven.

Next up will be spark plugs and brakes. Services so far have been new brake fluid and diff fluid flush/fill
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      09-18-2019, 10:43 AM   #110
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I have a 2016 non-ZCP M4 that I bought in December of 2018.

I bought it used so I'm the second owner and it had 25k miles at the time of purchase. Right now I have about 41k miles on it. Unfortunately, my car got the intercooler leak on it. It was leaking through the top mount intercooler though (attached pic)

I really dislike dealerships, so I ended up upgrading to the CSF one and getting that installed from a local shop plus I don't think warranty would have covered it. However, the cost of the CSF top mount intercooler is anything but cheap, I personally think it's a bit overpriced but oh well. I went with the CSF because I never want this issue to happen again.

Outside of the intercooler, my M performance exhaust had a small cracked which I'm getting fixed soon. With that said, this is my daily driver and I love the car, probably more and more each day that I drive it. I have a stage 1 tune through Alex from Alpine and I've had that one for a few months now and no issues. So it has been reliable but not as lucky as some of the other guys here that have had 0 issues.
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