Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[ALCOBENDAS]

Originally Posted by edycol

IMO not worth money. It is definitely step up from Liqui Moly. But, and this is purely my observation, I read some reports of issues with quality control.
It definitely looks like stout package. However, question is: what are you getting compared to equally or better products from Castrol, Shell, Motul, Mobil1 etc.?

Thanks for answering, so your choice for people who do sports (I had big turbos) but without a circuit would be 0w40 from Castrol? some specific version of the Castrol 0w40 or the normal one?

In Europe they are telling us that Ravenol is the best option .. I am using it with an additive called Xenum VRX 500 .. I don't know if you can say something about this?

Thanks

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Does anyone else get anxiety reading these forums?

Can one of the oil gods put me at ease by affirming my plan to use euro edge 0w40 during winters and redline 5w30 from April to Nov which includes 15-20 track days and some casual weekend drives? In the northeast.

After how many track days should I be changing oil?

thanks.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Does anyone else get anxiety reading these forums?

Can one of the oil gods put me at ease by affirming my plan to use euro edge 0w40 during winters and redline 5w30 from April to Nov which includes 15-20 track days and some casual weekend drives? In the northeast.

After how many track days should I be changing oil?

thanks.

So 15-20 track days?
You can go Motul 5W40 Sport. Change at 3k, do UOA but tell Blackstone to do TBN and TAN measurement.
Redline 5W40 is good option too for that many track days.
You can also do Castrol 0W40 for 3k. Do UOA, same measurements, and compare two oils.
15-20 days is already in my vocabulary enough track days to justify more specific oils.
You can even try Motul 300V.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by ALCOBENDAS

Thanks for answering, so your choice for people who do sports (I had big turbos) but without a circuit would be 0w40 from Castrol? some specific version of the Castrol 0w40 or the normal one?

In Europe they are telling us that Ravenol is the best option .. I am using it with an additive called Xenum VRX 500 .. I don't know if you can say something about this?

Thanks

Europe has that specific 0W40 called Sport or something? On paper it is same as regular, but probably has more specific additives.
Now, Europe is different. Ravenol makes sense as price difference between Ravenol and other oils is not that high. But here, it is hard to justify that oil when Castrol, Mobil1, Pennzoil (Shell) are $40 cheaper for 5qt jug.
I would though go 5W40 instead of 0W40. Since Ravenol has both grades available with same base stocks, you was less spread between XW and XX. That means more shear stability.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by edycol

So 15-20 track days?
You can go Motul 5W40 Sport. Change at 3k, do UOA but tell Blackstone to do TBN and TAN measurement.
Redline 5W40 is good option too for that many track days.
You can also do Castrol 0W40 for 3k. Do UOA, same measurements, and compare two oils.
15-20 days is already in my vocabulary enough track days to justify more specific oils.
You can even try Motul 300V.

What about RedLine 0W40 year round for him? This way he's not mixing stocks and additives going back and forth…and FCP Euro let's him change it frequently for almost free.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by aswy6

So if i live in Austin and track like 3-4 times per year. Is it Castrol 0w-40 or motul 5w-40?

Thank you

Castrol.
After you change oil, do UOA and tell them to measure TBN and TAN. You will know exactly where you at. Post it here so others can see.
Ambient temperatures are not issue. Altitude is!
Running any car in Austin in July is less stressful on engine than running it here in CO at HPR at 5,000ft altitude in April!
I ran my N52 with Castrol 0W40 here at HPR at 102f temperature for 1 1/2hrs straight. I do have oil cooler from an55 which is overkill for this engine, but still this altitude and that temperature is as worse as it gets.
In 2020 I ran that same engine without oil cooler at 95f. Had Mobil1 0W40 in it. I hit 293f engine temperature when it cut out. Several times. It ran so hot that my OFHG that was leaking resealed itself for two months.
Engine didn't lose drop of iil and I ran it for 5k.
These oils are tough stuff.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Are they developing a more stout version of their euro blend to be more in line with their premium blends?

So the reason why they developing some new stuff is that one guy that has almost 400hp on VW 1.8T (170hp stock) complained about shearing of oils. So Dave from HPL decided to try specific formula just for him to see what happens.
It is basically experiment. That guy with VW has regular HPL Euro stuff now and will do UOA after track season starts. So we will see. I might try it too. It is still fairly new stuff to know.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

What about RedLine 0W40 year round for him? This way he's not mixing stocks and additives going back and forth…and FCP Euro let's him change it frequently for almost free.

Good point.
But, I would go Redline 5W30 in winter, 5W40 on track and 5k OCI in winter at MAX!
Unless we are talking starting engine below-35, 5WXX will be sufficient, especially Redline with ester base stocks.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

thanks, guys. On this Blackstone card, I only see a box to check for a TBN. Do I request the TAN (?) in the comments section?

Whatever happened to Quakerstate and ball bearings. anyone?

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by edycol

Castrol.
After you change oil, do UOA and tell them to measure TBN and TAN. You will know exactly where you at. Post it here so others can see.
Ambient temperatures are not issue. Altitude is!
Running any car in Austin in July is less stressful on engine than running it here in CO at HPR at 5,000ft altitude in April!
I ran my N52 with Castrol 0W40 here at HPR at 102f temperature for 1 1/2hrs straight. I do have oil cooler from an55 which is overkill for this engine, but still this altitude and that temperature is as worse as it gets.
In 2020 I ran that same engine without oil cooler at 95f. Had Mobil1 0W40 in it. I hit 293f engine temperature when it cut out. Several times. It ran so hot that my OFHG that was leaking resealed itself for two months.
Engine didn't lose drop of iil and I ran it for 5k.
These oils are tough stuff.

Thanks a lot! I will also do blackstone to my current LM 5w-40 after i change it soon. So basically Castrol 0w-40 is the best oil for street and less than 8 track days per year? But above 8 track days per year, motul 5w-40 might be a better option? Did i sum it up correctly? I hate that i used to run Castrol 0w-40 the whole time until shop told me LM is better

[edycol]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Thanks a lot! I will also do blackstone to my current LM 5w-40 after i change it soon. So basically Castrol 0w-40 is the best oil for street and less than 8 track days per year? But above 8 track days per year, motul 5w-40 might be a better option? Did i sum it up correctly? I hate that i used to run Castrol 0w-40 the whole time until shop told me LM is better

When it comes to your exploitation of vehicle, we are talking "user specific " territory.
I would run 5 track days on Castrol 0W40, do UOA, then 5 track days on Motul Sport, do UOA, and 5 track days on Redline, do UOA.
Compare data and see where you at.
But don't forget golden rule of lubrication: as thin as possible, as thick as necessary.
You want as thin as possible (less heat, less performance loss) but oil temperatures determine how thick (higher HTHS, more heat dissipation capacity).
What are your oil temperatures on track?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

thanks, guys. On this Blackstone card, I only see a box to check for a TBN. Do I request the TAN (?) in the comments section?

Whatever happened to Quakerstate and ball bearings. anyone?

Additional comments!
Just put: please do TAN.

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by edycol

When it comes to your exploitation of vehicle, we are talking "user specific " territory.
I would run 5 track days on Castrol 0W40, do UOA, then 5 track days on Motul Sport, do UOA, and 5 track days on Redline, do UOA.
Compare data and see where you at.
But don't forget golden rule of lubrication: as thin as possible, as thick as necessary.
You want as thin as possible (less heat, less performance loss) but oil temperatures determine how thick (higher HTHS, more heat dissipation capacity).
What are your oil temperatures on track?

On LM oil they are same as on street. Does not really go above. But i also dont track in the summer

[edycol]

Originally Posted by aswy6

On LM oil they are same as on street. Does not really go above. But i also dont track in the summer

If oil temperature is same as on the street when you track it, IMO stick to XW40 Castrol or Motul Sport 5W40.
Now, Redline 5W40 is thick and HTHS is 4.5 (higher than Mobil1 5W50 and same as Mobil1 15W50). Not sure that is necessary, you could actually run Redline 5W30 and be absolutely fine considering HTHS is same as Castrol 0W40.
But again, I would do UOA and compared data. It will be interesting to see and serve to others as point of reference.

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by edycol

If oil temperature is same as on the street when you track it, IMO stick to XW40 Castrol or Motul Sport 5W40.
Now, Redline 5W40 is thick and HTHS is 4.5 (higher than Mobil1 5W50 and same as Mobil1 15W50). Not sure that is necessary, you could actually run Redline 5W30 and be absolutely fine considering HTHS is same as Castrol 0W40.
But again, I would do UOA and compared data. It will be interesting to see and serve to others as point of reference.

Sounds good will do! But between Castrol 0-40 and motul 5-40 you would recommend to go with the Castrol right?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Sounds good will do! But between Castrol 0-40 and motul 5-40 you would recommend to go with the Castrol right?

At those temperatures I would go Castrol.

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by edycol

At those temperatures I would go Castrol.

Perfect! Thanks a lot for your input! Going to change my LM to Castrol in about 2 months. Also fun fact, since going with LM 5w-40 i sometimes get lifter clunking sound on a cold start. But after i go to the track it goes away for about 2 weeks but then comes back occasionally. In this case, do you recommend doing LM Engine Flush thing when doing my next oil change?

[edycol]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Perfect! Thanks a lot for your input! Going to change my LM to Castrol in about 2 months. Also fun fact, since going with LM 5w-40 i sometimes get lifter clunking sound on a cold start. But after i go to the track it goes away for about 2 weeks but then comes back occasionally. In this case, do you recommend doing LM Engine Flush thing when doing my next oil change?

No flushes at all!
Just change oil.
I had lifter tick on VW Passat 1.8T using Castrol 5W40. Switched to 0W30 Castrol and problem solved. It is degradation of oil. LM is Group III oil (same like Castrol 5W40). 0W40 is more shear stable (theoretically 5W40 should be more shear stable. That is where base stocks come to play and type of polymers) and while it is approved for all important approvals, there is good oil and then really good oil.
Also, sometimes type of additives contribute to noise. Mobil1 is notorious for "loud" engines. But, do UOA and they always perform excellent.

[edycol]

Also, if worried about deposits in an engine. Run Mobil1 0W40 for one OCI. Nothing cleans engine like that oil. Reason is that it has so much additives that actually it is IMO too much fir DI engines (MB, Porsche think it is fine). Nothing is as greasy on market as that oil. Instead of engine flush just run that if you are worried about deposits.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by edycol

Also, if worried about deposits in an engine. Run Mobil1 0W40 for one OCI. Nothing cleans engine like that oil. Reason is that it has so much additives that actually it is IMO too much fir DI engines (MB, Porsche think it is fine). Nothing is as greasy on market as that oil. Instead of engine flush just run that if you are worried about deposits.

+1. This is the oil I run on the family cars (Lexus/Honda). Very very good oil for port injected cars and it cleans cleans cleans

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by edycol

Good point.
But, I would go Redline 5W30 in winter, 5W40 on track and 5k OCI in winter at MAX!
Unless we are talking starting engine below-35, 5WXX will be sufficient, especially Redline with ester base stocks.

Man you are getting inundated with questions! Thanks for providing so much feedback here

I had read that Redline 5w-40 has a different base stock than 0w-40. The question here would really be what are the downsides of running the 0w-40? I think it's pertinent because a few people here use FCP as their oil source, hence the adoption of LM by many.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by RugbyBro

Man you are getting inundated with questions! Thanks for providing so much feedback here

I had read that Redline 5w-40 has a different base stock than 0w-40. The question here would really be what are the downsides of running the 0w-40? I think it's pertinent because a few people here use FCP as their oil source, hence the adoption of LM by many.

So Redline 0W40 compared to 5W40 will have bit lighter base, but it is still ester based, so yeah it is pretty much same.
The reason why I said 5W30 is KV100. If you are starting engine at extremely low temperatures, like below -20 or -30, yes 0WXX is always way to go.
But, once you start engine, thicker oil needs more time to thin out to appropriate levels.
5W30 is thinner at let's say 0 degrees once engine is started. It is thinner at KV40. So engine will have "easier" warm up phase on 5W30 than 0W40 which is really thick 40 grade.
Yes, FCP is very popular. I get a lot of stuff from them. I personally would go Pentosin route in that case, not LM route.