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      06-09-2021, 05:52 PM   #1
BoostinLI
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Unhappy Coilover ping,pop, and stuck steering wheel!?

Hey guys. Recently purchased some TC Kline coilovers (single adjustable front version) with camber plates and had them install 2 days ago. First day I got the car after the long wait, the shop said to hold off on the alignment to allow the suspension to "settle" which I never heard of and was told to wait two days. I came back the next day because the right coil felt like it was literally coming loose and popped,banged and pinged with every turn I made.. Mechanic said the top bolt needed to be torqued down and put loctite on it for good measure. Car felt a bit better not as much chatter.

Today I came in for the alignment, the mechanic used his own specs, despite the alignment sheet coming with the suspension. He backs the car out of the shop, it creeks and pings, mechanic and other employees state it just needs to break in the camber plate bearing as it may be too stiff new. So I drive off thinking it's "normal," do a U turn, it pops/pings, and now the wheel is out of alignment pulling only to the left. I pull over and rotate the wheel full right then center and it's fixed??? I'm so exhausted at this point I go home, not sure what to do, they don't know what to do I'm sure, so I will visit another shop tomorrow. in the mean time, hoping I can get some feed back on the situation.

One thing I noticed, is the rubber bushing from the oem setup wasn't reused. Not sure if it is need or if their is supposed to be a substitute and can that be the reason for all the noise and wheel getting stuck?

Thank you
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      06-09-2021, 06:07 PM   #2
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You need a new shop. Try to find one that specializes in at least European cars if you can't find a BMW shop near by
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      06-09-2021, 06:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldsteelrain View Post
You need a new shop. Try to find one that specializes in at least European cars if you can't find a BMW shop near by
Thats already in order, but I'm looking for information on what could be the cause of these particular problems, as to pass on to the next shop to expedite repairs.
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      06-09-2021, 07:32 PM   #4
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The part about it needing to settle a bit is true but nothing extreme like your case.
Many things could be wrong here but all lead to a bad install/something broken.
I know I said find someone better but maybe go back to the shop and demand to talk to a manager or owner and press for them to fix the issue.
Otherwise you'll end up paying twice and maybe more in case the first shop broke something during the initial install.
If you need some reputable shops there is at least two in NJ (Bimmerclinic and AUTOcouture) that work on BMW's and can help you out but that should be your last option. Can't recommend anyone in NYC
Maybe someone else can
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      06-09-2021, 10:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post
Hey guys. Recently purchased some TC Kline coilovers (single adjustable front version) with camber plates and had them install 2 days ago. First day I got the car after the long wait, the shop said to hold off on the alignment to allow the suspension to "settle" which I never heard of and was told to wait two days. I came back the next day because the right coil felt like it was literally coming loose and popped,banged and pinged with every turn I made.. Mechanic said the top bolt needed to be torqued down and put loctite on it for good measure. Car felt a bit better not as much chatter.

Today I came in for the alignment, the mechanic used his own specs, despite the alignment sheet coming with the suspension. He backs the car out of the shop, it creeks and pings, mechanic and other employees state it just needs to break in the camber plate bearing as it may be too stiff new. So I drive off thinking it's "normal," do a U turn, it pops/pings, and now the wheel is out of alignment pulling only to the left. I pull over and rotate the wheel full right then center and it's fixed??? I'm so exhausted at this point I go home, not sure what to do, they don't know what to do I'm sure, so I will visit another shop tomorrow. in the mean time, hoping I can get some feed back on the situation.

One thing I noticed, is the rubber bushing from the oem setup wasn't reused. Not sure if it is need or if their is supposed to be a substitute and can that be the reason for all the noise and wheel getting stuck?

Thank you
I don't think anyone can help with confidence without visual notes on your set up. There are too many variables from parts,installation-error, and your description. For example, you said you don't think they transferred the rubber bushing to the TC Klines. What rubber bushing? There are no rubber bushings that need to be removed or replaced when installing coilovers.

But I do agree with others. Go to a shop that knows how to work on aftermarket parts for BMWs. Coilovers are not difficult to install on this car. It's literally all straight forward mechanical removal of nuts and bolts and an extra jack to remove/replace rear springs.
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      06-10-2021, 11:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
I don't think anyone can help with confidence without visual notes on your set up. There are too many variables from parts,installation-error, and your description. For example, you said you don't think they transferred the rubber bushing to the TC Klines. What rubber bushing? There are no rubber bushings that need to be removed or replaced when installing coilovers.

But I do agree with others. Go to a shop that knows how to work on aftermarket parts for BMWs. Coilovers are not difficult to install on this car. It's literally all straight forward mechanical removal of nuts and bolts and an extra jack to remove/replace rear springs.
Yeah, I've always worked under the hood, never touched the suspension. After watching some diy videos, it seemed straight forward enough, but wayyy to hot lately here in New York. Going to a shop now
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      06-11-2021, 08:13 AM   #7
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I wonder if the coilover was set with the correct spring preload? You said it has camber plates..... some use just a thin upper rubber shim
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      06-14-2021, 05:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds View Post
I wonder if the coilover was set with the correct spring preload? You said it has camber plates..... some use just a thin upper rubber shim
Are you referring to thrust sheets? I've been reading about them, but I'm not sure how they're installed. Is it by a press? Completely clueless.
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      06-14-2021, 06:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post
Are you referring to thrust sheets? I've been reading about them, but I'm not sure how they're installed. Is it by a press? Completely clueless.
Nope they are just literally sheets in ring shape that are flat to help prevent spring bind and noises (albeit there are different types/styles) - however, coilover noises can come from so many different things that taking it to a shop that has experience with F8X chassis is likely your best bet. There's just too many possibilities, not that we don't want to help but to help you expedite matters it's just much easier to have someone that has your car on a lift to diagnose and test drive after.
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      06-16-2021, 04:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
Nope they are just literally sheets in ring shape that are flat to help prevent spring bind and noises (albeit there are different types/styles) - however, coilover noises can come from so many different things that taking it to a shop that has experience with F8X chassis is likely your best bet. There's just too many possibilities, not that we don't want to help but to help you expedite matters it's just much easier to have someone that has your car on a lift to diagnose and test drive after.
So I actually took images and sent it to the manufacturer and sure enough it was installed wrong 😞. Going back for my refund and finding another shop.
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      06-16-2021, 04:11 PM   #11
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      06-16-2021, 05:24 PM   #12
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Judging by your pics, the ride height is set too low such that at full droop your spring is completely unloaded and not touching the lower perch. That would definitely cause a lot of noise. Not necessarily mis-installed though (but the shop should've checked for this). The fix is for you to raise the lower spring perch till you have some preload on the spring.
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      06-16-2021, 05:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post

There's all kinds of weird things going on in your pics. Why are your springs hovering off the lower perch? Is it "stuck" to the top perch? Speaking of the top perch... I've never seen anything that like. It looks melted or made of rubber/polyurethane. What is it made of? Why is the Koni sticker on the back side of the shock? Is the shock seated properly into the spindle? Lastly, does the shock have a sleeve/adapter that fits into the spindle? I can't tell.

If that top perch is made of something other than metal, then it will just "squish" upwards into the camber plate when the car is on the ground. The F80 being a McPherson strut, it will have a hard time rotating if there is a rubber/urethane top spring perch.


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      06-16-2021, 06:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Judging by your pics, the ride height is set too low such that at full droop your spring is completely unloaded and not touching the lower perch. That would definitely cause a lot of noise. Not necessarily mis-installed though (but the shop should've checked for this). The fix is for you to raise the lower spring perch till you have some preload on the spring.
Yeah, when I took off the wheels to look, when I hit the spring it goes left and right, making the clanking noise that I've been hearing.
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      06-16-2021, 06:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
There's all kinds of weird things going on in your pics. Why are your springs hovering off the lower perch? Is it "stuck" to the top perch? Speaking of the top perch... I've never seen anything that like. It looks melted or made of rubber/polyurethane. What is it made of? Why is the Koni sticker on the back side of the shock? Is the shock seated properly into the spindle? Lastly, does the shock have a sleeve/adapter that fits into the spindle? I can't tell.

If that top perch is made of something other than metal, then it will just "squish" upwards into the camber plate when the car is on the ground. The F80 being a McPherson strut, it will have a hard time rotating if there is a rubber/urethane top spring perch.

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Looks like that is what the kit comes with, that polyutherne piece based off the image. when I saw the spring floating and "clanking" I knew something was definitely not done right. Should the koni sign be pointed forward? I will be going in with a these questions on Friday. Worse experience with my car for something that was supposed to be simple.
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      06-16-2021, 06:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post

Looks like that is what the kit comes with, that polyutherne piece based off the image. when I saw the spring floating and "clanking" I knew something was definitely not done right. Should the koni sign be pointed forward? I will be going in with a these questions on Friday. Worse experience with my car for something that was supposed to be simple.
Jesus Christ. It looks like they used the rubber/poly bushing from the rear spring seat as the front top hat.
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      06-16-2021, 06:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
Jesus Christ. It looks like they used the rubber/poly bushing from the rear spring seat as the front top hat.
What other issues can this cause? Smh
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      06-16-2021, 07:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
Jesus Christ. It looks like they used the rubber/poly bushing from the rear spring seat as the front top hat.
What other issues can this cause? Smh
If I were you, I'd stop driving the car. Do you have the proper aluminum top hat in your possession?

You have a basic knowledge of mechanics. The top of the spring isn't seated properly. The rubber seat is all that's keeping the spring from contacting your camber plates and marring it up. Even so, when you turn the wheels, the spring is getting "caught" on the rubber and twisting out of shape. Possibly coming in contact with the shock piston shaft and even putting undue lateral pressure on the piston shaft. There's a lot that could go wrong. There's no real precedent for "what could go wrong" because that is the most incompetent suspension install I've ever seen on this forum.

If you have the correct top hat, install it yourself. It's quite easy to do. If you don't, contact TC Kline, get the right one. If you don't want to do the install yourself, tow it to a proper shop. Don't let the previous shop even touch the car.
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      06-16-2021, 08:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
Jesus Christ. It looks like they used the rubber/poly bushing from the rear spring seat as the front top hat.
So, pretty much the front and rear suspension setup needs to be dropped and the rubber/poly bushing from the front goes to the back and vice versa?
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      06-16-2021, 08:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
If I were you, I'd stop driving the car. Do you have the proper aluminum top hat in your possession?

You have a basic knowledge of mechanics. The top of the spring isn't seated properly. The rubber seat is all that's keeping the spring from contacting your camber plates and marring it up. Even so, when you turn the wheels, the spring is getting "caught" on the rubber and twisting out of shape. Possibly coming in contact with the shock piston shaft and even putting undue lateral pressure on the piston shaft. There's a lot that could go wrong. There's no real precedent for "what could go wrong" because that is the most incompetent suspension install I've ever seen on this forum.

If you have the correct top hat, install it yourself. It's quite easy to do. If you don't, contact TC Kline, get the right one. If you don't want to do the install yourself, tow it to a proper shop. Don't let the previous shop even touch the car.
I checked the boxes and I didn't find any top hat. If I'm understanding correctly, the top hats for the fronts are possibly installed in the rear incorrectly?
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      06-16-2021, 09:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarlcase View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
If I were you, I'd stop driving the car. Do you have the proper aluminum top hat in your possession?

You have a basic knowledge of mechanics. The top of the spring isn't seated properly. The rubber seat is all that's keeping the spring from contacting your camber plates and marring it up. Even so, when you turn the wheels, the spring is getting "caught" on the rubber and twisting out of shape. Possibly coming in contact with the shock piston shaft and even putting undue lateral pressure on the piston shaft. There's a lot that could go wrong. There's no real precedent for "what could go wrong" because that is the most incompetent suspension install I've ever seen on this forum.

If you have the correct top hat, install it yourself. It's quite easy to do. If you don't, contact TC Kline, get the right one. If you don't want to do the install yourself, tow it to a proper shop. Don't let the previous shop even touch the car.
I checked the boxes and I didn't find any top hat. If I'm understanding correctly, the top hats for the fronts are possibly installed in the rear incorrectly?
I don't know man. You didn't post anything regarding the rear. That being said, it's near impossible to make the front top hat work for the rear. You'd have to deliberately cut things up to do something as dumb as that.
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      06-19-2021, 09:40 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
If I were you, I'd stop driving the car. Do you have the proper aluminum top hat in your possession?

You have a basic knowledge of mechanics. The top of the spring isn't seated properly. The rubber seat is all that's keeping the spring from contacting your camber plates and marring it up. Even so, when you turn the wheels, the spring is getting "caught" on the rubber and twisting out of shape. Possibly coming in contact with the shock piston shaft and even putting undue lateral pressure on the piston shaft. There's a lot that could go wrong. There's no real precedent for "what could go wrong" because that is the most incompetent suspension install I've ever seen on this forum.

If you have the correct top hat, install it yourself. It's quite easy to do. If you don't, contact TC Kline, get the right one. If you don't want to do the install yourself, tow it to a proper shop. Don't let the previous shop even touch the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by x.shell View Post
I don't know man. You didn't post anything regarding the rear. That being said, it's near impossible to make the front top hat work for the rear. You'd have to deliberately cut things up to do something as dumb as that.
Hey man, just want to thank you for all of your help! So I took it to another shop and they within a few minutes spotted the problem and some type of bearing on the camber plate was installed upside down causing the horrible noise but grinding on the top hat. They've literally did everything completely wrong, regret I didn't just do it myself.

As for the TC Kline coilovers = freaking amazing! Still have to fine tune it, but man they're solid.
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