Pagid RS29 brake pads: clunking noise when changing between drive and reverse.

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by Lojs

Yes.
Having said that I am not sure if any competitor pads fulfill this criteria. Only thing I heard is that the RSL29 compound mates well with stock pads' layer.

I didn't have an issue going back and forth between stock and RLS1. It would have only been an issue if you melted them and glazed the rotors with them. But to do that on the RSL1 would really mean you're overworking your hardware. Also don't run track pads below 3mm. If you're starting the track day on used pads you should kind of have an idea where you'll be wear wise. I always leave the last 3mm and just drive home. I won't go for an extra session once I get to that point. If I'm at 5-6mm I may start on them, but I'll change them out at the break. I won't try to do a whole day on them.

[ZAGA_M3]

Originally Posted by MasterP

MDM can activate braking at individual wheels when you're not applying brakes yourself. Nannies on will contribute to brake wear. It's mostly to the rears though. There's some activity in front but if the MDM is braking your front so much that's an issue stop what you're doing and grab an instructor ASAP.

yea i am not at that stage to worry abt instructor..i was just curious if with MDM will it ruin those pads or what!!
i understand it might wear bit more than usual but yea

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by MasterP

I didn't have an issue going back and forth between stock and RLS1. It would have only been an issue if you melted them and glazed the rotors with them. But to do that on the RSL1 would really mean you're overworking your hardware. Also don't run track pads below 3mm. If you're starting the track day on used pads you should kind of have an idea where you'll be wear wise. I always leave the last 3mm and just drive home. I won't go for an extra session once I get to that point. If I'm at 5-6mm I may start on them, but I'll change them out at the break. I won't try to do a whole day on them.

Agreed. My threshold gauge is the backing plate thickness (~4mm). If the pad material is thinner than the backing plate, time to swap.

When my outer left front RS29 disintegrated, it had over 5-6mm left on it before the session.

[Lojs]

Gents, it was my second day on those pads, with something like 500km easy street driving in between.
The pads visually had at least 8-9mm at the start of the day.
By the afternoon my tires heated up properly (r888r) and I also dialed in the pressure right, so the grip was really good. I started hitting good lap times consistently, eventually breaking my personal best.
At the end of the second very fast session the pedal suddenly got soft and there was hardly any friction in the pads. I was lucky it happened in a safe place. I cooled down and went into the pits only to find my backing plates squeezed against the rotors. With zero pad material in between.

I am running Pure turbos, so it might be just too much power on a heavy car for those brakes. Without proper cooling even the RSL29s could not keep up.
If I need to buy a new set of pads for every track day this becomes a prohibitively expensive car to track.

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by Lojs

Gents, it was my second day on those pads, with something like 500km easy street driving in between.
The pads visually had at least 8-9mm at the start of the day.
By the afternoon my tires heated up properly (r888r) and I also dialed in the pressure right, so the grip was really good. I started hitting good lap times consistently, eventually breaking my personal best.
At the end of the second very fast session the pedal suddenly got soft and there was hardly any friction in the pads. I was lucky it happened in a safe place. I cooled down and went into the pits only to find my backing plates squeezed against the rotors. With zero pad material in between.

I am running Pure turbos, so it might be just too much power on a heavy car for those brakes. Without proper cooling even the RSL29s could not keep up.
If I need to buy a new set of pads for every track day this becomes a prohibitively expensive car to track.

I'm looking at your super dark calipers and guessing you track a lot and get your brakes to a pretty high temp

Have you checked your caliper seals? A sticking or dragging piston can increase wear significantly.

[Lojs]

Originally Posted by MasterP

I'm looking at your super dark calipers and guessing you track a lot and get your brakes to a pretty high temp

Have you checked your caliper seals? A sticking or dragging piston can increase wear significantly.

Do you mean seals (as the ones that are inside, visible only by removing the pistons) or the dust boots that are on the outside? The later I have already replaced once, but they look like crap again. I might need to get those fancy purple high temp ones. The former ones I never checked, maybe it is also time.

The discoloration of the calipers is a known widespread issue. I do 5-6 track days a year and had the car for exactly 3 years now. Mine were darkening quite slowly until I recently missed a turn and slid out into the gravel resulting in an instant stop on a hot lap (needed assistance to get out eventually). With no cool down that fried the paint quite badly.

[MasterP]

Originally Posted by Lojs

Do you mean seals (as the ones that are inside, visible only by removing the pistons) or the dust boots that are on the outside? The later I have already replaced once, but they look like crap again. I might need to get those fancy purple high temp ones. The former ones I never checked, maybe it is also time.

The discoloration of the calipers is a known widespread issue. I do 5-6 track days a year and had the car for exactly 3 years now. Mine were darkening quite slowly until I recently missed a turn and slid out into the gravel resulting in an instant stop on a hot lap (needed assistance to get out eventually). With no cool down that fried the paint quite badly.

The inner seals.

[Kbueno]

Originally Posted by MasterP

MDM can activate braking at individual wheels when you're not applying brakes yourself. Nannies on will contribute to brake wear. It's mostly to the rears though. There's some activity in front but if the MDM is braking your front so much that's an issue stop what you're doing and grab an instructor ASAP.

This...I will also add MDM on our cars are overly intrusive, to the point where it brakes to try and save you when it doesn't need to. Most likely this is your culprit, not the pads.

[Lojs]

Originally Posted by Kbueno

This...I will also add MDM on our cars are overly intrusive, to the point where it brakes to try and save you when it doesn't need to. Most likely this is your culprit, not the pads.

It was a question by someone else. As I stated above, I run with nannies fully off.

[lemetier]

Originally Posted by Lojs

I will be putting back stock pads over the weekend and will inspect the rotors again and report.

What was the result? I'm fairly certain of what is going on in your situation and would be happy to discuss privately (PM me for my contact info if you're interested). Without confirmation I don't think it's appropriate to mention openly in a tread.

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Agreed. My threshold gauge is the backing plate thickness (~4mm). If the pad material is thinner than the backing plate, time to swap.

When my outer left front RS29 disintegrated, it had over 5-6mm left on it before the session.

Just under 6mm front and 5mm rear for the RSL29 is it. These were the ones you ran on the street for a while too correct? You have my phone number, so feel free to text me with a time and I can elaborate on what I know to have been the cause of this on cases ive physically witnessed.

Originally Posted by Kbueno

This...I will also add MDM on our cars are overly intrusive, to the point where it brakes to try and save you when it doesn't need to. Most likely this is your culprit, not the pads.

It's not so much as being overly intrusive, it's that under certain conditions, the corrective inputs applied by the car and driver simultaneously end up multiplying and create an unusual condition.

Originally Posted by Lojs

It was a question by someone else. As I stated above, I run with nannies fully off.

They're never fully off.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by lemetier

Just under 6mm front and 5mm rear for the RSL29 is it. These were the ones you ran on the street for a while too correct? You have my phone number, so feel free to text me with a time and I can elaborate on what I know to have been the cause of this on cases ive physically witnessed.

No, 5~6mm for the front pads, the rears were almost new. This front set of RSL29 actually saw less street use than all my previous RS29.

[FLOSS M]

Kinda off topic.... I have been using the RS29 for 15 track days and have had the same pad slap noises, forward and reverse as well as vibration over bumps. I swap pads at the track from OEM to RS29 back to OEMfor this reason. I recently tried the Ferodo DS1.11 - as a comparison to the RS29 - more initial bite and a more consistent pedal feel through out the entire session.

[GMWNashville]

Originally Posted by FLOSS M

Kinda off topic.... I have been using the RS29 for 15 track days and have had the same pad slap noises, forward and reverse as well as vibration over bumps. I swap pads at the track from OEM to RS29 back to OEMfor this reason. I recently tried the Ferodo DS1.11 - as a comparison to the RS29 - more initial bite and a more consistent pedal feel through out the entire session.

how did they do for the clicking noise? The RS29's work great but the noises over bumps and things while driving-specifically the rear- is fairly annoying on a car with no rear seat!

[FLOSS M]

same backing plate and size as RS29 .... I would expect the same noises but I don't drive on the street with the track pads