F80 M3 S55 Single Turbo Build

[McBobby Jr]

Originally Posted by chetrickerman

It sure is thicc. It's a very tight fit, I did notch the hood a little to prevent any rubbing.

What are your thoughts on the EOS single inlet intercooler?

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by McBobby Jr

What are your thoughts on the EOS single inlet intercooler?

I chose the Wagner because they have irrefutable data showing the effectiveness of their intercooler. No one else has done this and therefore I would not recommend any other intercooler

[McBobby Jr]

Originally Posted by Corn Mode

No, my neglegence to check my injector ‘health’ did. Would they have failed this bad running stock maps and petrol? Probably not to this degree. Running E85 pushes the injectors to work way harder and I should’ve swapped or cleaned them more often.

I read your thread, and pushing an E85 tune on stock turbos can somewhat be a gray area regarding stock injectors depending on mileage. Crazy to see that you pushed that many miles on stock injectors. Good luck on your next build, single turbo is the way.

[Sloblk8]

Originally Posted by McBobby Jr

I read your thread, and pushing an E85 tune on stock turbos can somewhat be a gray area regarding stock injectors depending on mileage. Crazy to see that you pushed that many miles on stock injectors. Good luck on your next build, single turbo is the way.

Not meaning to thread hijack but you need to change injectors to run e85 safely?

[slaughter.mode]

Originally Posted by Sloblk8

Not meaning to thread hijack but you need to change injectors to run e85 safely?

Generally, no. But a full E85 aggressive/kill tune will push your injectors to their limits which causes them to wear out faster due running at their maximum duty cycle.

[Sloblk8]

Originally Posted by Corn Mode

Generally, no. But a full E85 aggressive/kill tune will push your injectors to their limits which causes them to wear out faster due running at their maximum duty cycle.

Gotcha. Thanks.

[Joy15779]

Originally Posted by slaughter.mode

What a thread. Thanks chetrickerman for sharing.

I recently blew my motor so I'm getting a new one installed and strongly considering going down the single turbo path as well. I am being offered a killer deal on a BigBoost (BW9280) kit that's hard to pass up making it even more lucrative. I am really hoping you can weigh in on my fueling upgrade shopping list. FYI, this is a daily driver and I'm aiming for 700whp and I don't care to go above that. Simplicity and reliability are paramount. Here's my list:

• Dorch EU5 Fuel Injectors
• Dorch Lift Kit
• PrecisionRaceworks LPFP (may not need this)

I have MHD + the MHD CAN Ethanol Content Analyzer for a previous FlexFuel tune I was running with the twin turbo setup but if I can achieve 700whp with the 9280 + these injectors + lift kit on ACN91 then I'll happily walk away from E85 all together.

Really appreciate any feedback. Cheers.

Hi dear, please read my signature to understand the car. DO NOT go above 700 hp without doing reinforced bearings, carillo piston and ARROW rods as per what I ve done. In this way I went on kratos turbo up to 2 bar with RON 100 standard gasoline.
Now I have 400 liters of MAGIGAS E85, I' m slowly increasing percentage without remapping. Today at 20%, the car flys.
Forget the LPFP it is useless.
Spend money on upgrade cooling system like oil cooler bigger, water and intercooler, I have all Mishimoto

[Joy15779]

HONESTLY GUYS I can't understand why spend money in LPFP.... I purchased it and it is useless

[JustAnothaM4]

Originally Posted by Joy15779

HONESTLY GUYS I can't understand why spend money in LPFP.... I purchased it and it is useless

Please elaborate...

[slaughter.mode]

Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4

Please elaborate...

+1. My LPFP has about 113k on it, regardless it's going to give up eventually. A Stage 3 brushless PR unit seems like a no brainer upgrade. Can't hurt to have more flow capacity to feed the HPFP.

[JustAnothaM4]

Originally Posted by slaughter.mode

+1. My LPFP has about 113k on it, regardless it's going to give up eventually. A Stage 3 brushless PR unit seems like a no brainer upgrade. Can't hurt to have more flow capacity to feed the HPFP.

Exactly...more flow capacity the better! The easy winning combo has already been beaten to death at this point. My 4N Motorsports EFR8474 single turbo M4 GTS is easily putting down 750rwhp on a conservative e50 blend tune via MHD.


Basic Winning Combo Mods:
* SSR 4pin Crank Hub
* Precision Raceworks Stage 3 Brushless LPFP
* Dorch Engineering S55 Lift Kit (HPFP Vacuum Pump)
* Nexsys Motorsport S55 Ignition Coil Upgrade Kit w/ B58 Coils
* EU5 Injectors
* NGK Spark Plugs (e85)
* Wagner Top Mount Intercooler

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by Joy15779

HONESTLY GUYS I can't understand why spend money in LPFP.... I purchased it and it is useless

Maybe because the OEM LPFP runs out of flow at a certain power level, especially on E85

[M3god]

Can one of you guys explain what's the difference with the stage 3 pumps, between the regular and brushless

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by M3god

Can one of you guys explain what's the difference with the stage 3 pumps, between the regular and brushless

The regular pump uses an electric motor with brushes which are not as efficient, don't produce as much torque, and produce more heat, therefore heating the fuel more.

The brushless pump is more efficient, produces more torque, flows more for its given size, and heats the fuel less. The OEM pump is also brushless, so going from brushless to brushless allows you to still use the EKP to control the fuel pump rather than a aftermarket controller/relay.

[chetrickerman]

Updated post #3, new fuel system coming soon

[Idfkman]

Originally Posted by chetrickerman

Updated post #3, new fuel system coming soon

Love this build and thread, Chet. The details been super helpful as I plan my single turbo build.

Question for you, with regards to retaining the oem wastegate actuator, are you able to control boost and DI fueling completely using the OE systems and DME through EcuTek/MHD/BM3 or are you running some form of a alternative boost controller or Reflex?

I’m trying to figure out the easiest and safest way to run a single turbo without the complexity of a reflex+ or PI.

Plans as of now are:
EFR IWG Single Turbo (TBD on which kit)
EU5’s
Lift Kit
PR Brushless LPFP
BM3 w/ BM3 Flex kit
Mishimoto cooling

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by Idfkman

Love this build and thread, Chet. The details been super helpful as I plan my single turbo build.

Question for you, with regards to retaining the oem wastegate actuator, are you able to control boost and DI fueling completely using the OE systems and DME through EcuTek/MHD/BM3 or are you running some form of a alternative boost controller or Reflex?

I’m trying to figure out the easiest and safest way to run a single turbo without the complexity of a reflex+ or PI.

Plans as of now are:
EFR IWG Single Turbo (TBD on which kit)
EU5’s
Lift Kit
PR Brushless LPFP
BM3 w/ BM3 Flex kit
Mishimoto cooling

Thank you! I am not using any external controllers except for meth injection and an aftermarket Wideband O2 sensor. All fueling and boost control is handled by the DME, tuned by me with ECUTek.

Updated post coming soon.

[chetrickerman]

Updated post #3, will post it here as well
9-20-23
It turns out the culprit was low quality heat shrink, and the fact that ethanol eats solder over time. When I originally installed this fuel pump, I used standard heat shrink, and soldered the wires together. Over the course of 5 years of running only E85, ethanol was able to get into the joint and eventually it got to the point where the wires were just sitting on top of each other. The EKP detected a voltage plausibility error with the pump, and shut the car off, luckily the car was in my garage warming up.


I cut off the OEM filter from the hanger top hat, used a 4 wire bulkhead fitting from STM, along with their -8 to 5/16" barb bulkhead fitting to pass through the hanger top hat. Inside the tank, I used 5/16" nylon corrugated hose, with stainless fuel injection clamps, with an anodized aluminum Y-fitting to split between the feed to the top hat and the fuel pressure regulator (which cracks open at 90 psi).


I then used 3/8 SAE30R10 rubber hose to attach a Radium Venturi Jet pump to help draw fuel from the other larger side to help avoid fuel surge. Another measure I used to help avoid fuel surge was adding a Holley Hydramat as the fuel pump inlet "filter". It does filter (15 micron) pretty well, but it has a unique ability through surface tension, is able to keep a steady fuel supply to the pump even if only one corner of the hydramat is submerged.
So far I have gone all the way down to less than 20 miles of estimated range and fuel pressure is steady. As you can see, the hydramat is pretty large and reaches pretty much all the way from the front to the rear of the tank, again, helping aid fuel pick up



To ensure this issue does not happen again, I used tin coated butt connectors, and crimped the connections, ensuring a solid and reliable voltage supply. I also used Raychem DR-25 heat shrink this time. I removed the fuel pump wires from the OEM connector, and crimped Deutsch DTP 4 pin connectors, which each pin can handle 25 amps.


This ID F750 fuel filter is extremely nice, really well made, and is of solid construction. I was also able to use the OEM low fuel pressure sensor with the sensor block. I then used a -8 to dual -6 Y-fitting to split between the two pumps. Here you can see the difference between the size of the OEM tubing and the new -6 fittings. I double checked that all fittings were tight, and fired it up. The fuel pressure is more stable than ever, and the car is driving smoother as a result.

[E92inSG]

nice! just a couple questions as I'm also planning to do this.

did you mount the new radium venturi to the stock hanger? or is it just left dangling?

Also, what connections did you use to connect the Hydramat to the bottom of the pot?

[chetrickerman]

Originally Posted by E92inSG

nice! just a couple questions as I'm also planning to do this.

did you mount the new radium venturi to the stock hanger? or is it just left dangling?

Also, what connections did you use to connect the Hydramat to the bottom of the pot?

The radium venturi is resting on the floor of the tank. I didn't connect the hydramat to the bottom of the hanger. The hydramat is secured to the fuel pump inlet and rests on the fuel tank floor. I cut out a significant amount of the bottom of the hanger in the shape of the hydramat that way the fuel tank level sensor still works properly, and fuel can still fill in the cup.