BMS Stage 1 Same As Stock

[hdubf80]

Originally Posted by gassian

Awesome where you getting your exhaust installed at?

Supreme. They couldn't do it today hopefully they can squeeze me in tomorrow. The code guy flaked on me today too. Might hit up EAS to see what they can do.

[ZAGA_M3]

Originally Posted by hdubf80

Supreme. They couldn't do it today hopefully they can squeeze me in tomorrow. The code guy flaked on me today too. Might hit up EAS to see what they can do.

I coded plenty parameters on mine and friends 328i.
I will pm u to ask u on exhaust

[hdubf80]

Originally Posted by gassian

I coded plenty parameters on mine and friends 328i.
I will pm u to ask u on exhaust

Sounds good.

[Irishsig]

Originally Posted by ShlemonboostedM

Disconnecting is easy now connecting will make you want to burn your car down ..took me like 40 mins to connect that damn thing ..

After install I completely agree. I had the same damn experience.
In order to plug in the MAP sensor I had to go prone on the engine block...after 30 min I found it was the only way to articulate my hand to barely plug in the MAP sensor.
Even though for me it might be only once every year for service I don't want to deal with the uninstall/reinstall.
I'm probably going to do the 40 mile drive to the mod friendly dealership.

[ecf34]

Originally Posted by Irishsig

After install I completely agree. I had the same damn experience.
In order to plug in the MAP sensor I had to go prone on the engine block...after 30 min I found it was the only way to articulate my hand to barely plug in the MAP sensor.
Even though for me it might be only once every year for service I don't want to deal with the uninstall/reinstall.
I'm probably going to do the 40 mile drive to the mod friendly dealership.

Same, install took me 90 minutes because I wanted to make sure the wires wouldn't touch anything and that the box is held securely in place. If I have to tip the tech $20 that's okay as long as I don't have to reinstall the tune again

[Irishsig]

I'm thinking it may be a good investment to buy some extra long angled forceps to assist with plugging in the MAP plug.
Or at least getting it in the right position so you can just put it in with your finger tips

[JoeyBananas]

Originally Posted by Irishsig

I'm thinking it may be a good investment to buy some extra long angled forceps to assist with plugging in the MAP plug.
Or at least getting it in the right position so you can just put it in with your finger tips

Will a really long flathead help?

(Sorry, don't have the car yet not familiar with the engine bay, lol)

[jm600rr]

Originally Posted by turbomcgee

OK... Thought I'd add some data to the conversation.

I too have the BMS stage 1, and it adds serious power...but there are a few tricks to it.

1. if its cold out and/or you live very close to sea level like myself the +4 setting might be too much for you and cause a hesitation from 6500rpm+ this is the car misfiring. - I had to turn mine down to 2.5psi when it was colder out <50*. Now that its 70*+ our my car loves the +4 psi setting. - every car is different

2. I ran the stage 1 at a standing half mile event and trapped 150mph with an ET of 18.7, so yea the stage one kicks ass. The elevation there was 2000 feet and DA that day was 2800. I did find that shifting at 7000-7200rpm was faster then running it out to 7500rpm.

3. if you think the stage 1 if going to make your 0-60 times faster you are wrong, dont be upset if they are a little slower. Alll stage one does is add 4psi to whatever the factory boost command was, and that torque will destroy your rear tires, even with pedal modulation you will not get better 0-60 times on street tires.

4. If it is under 60 degrees out, or your tires are cold the car will cut throttle when you try a roll with DSC or MDM on, its just too much torque and it will make you car seem slower hence why a stock car could keep up or beat you. - I even found that what felt like a perfect run with MDM on was still not as fast as DSC off.

Shutting DSC off 100% on a highway roll would be ideal, if you are comfortable driving out of a little wiggle of the tail you will be fine... but be aware I have had the tail come out completely on the 2-3 shift, but this platform for the most part is easy to handle, assuming you didnt come from a 105hp CRX.

I've played with settings as low as 2psi and have some Vbox data on some of those settings below.

Overall stage 1 does work and works very well... you can feel the torque gains right from 2500rpm+
People have been doing this trick for years by using resistors on the map sensor wires, that method was ghetto but worked and the BMS solution has a lot more R&D involved in it, I haven’t cracked the box open but I’m sure its using a similar concept and altering the Tmap and Map sensor voltage.

hope this helps anyone who’s is looking at the BMS stage 1 - for $379 you wont find a bigger gain.

Vbox verified logs 60-100mph (60-130mph logs aren’t easy to pull off in my area) - Both runs were done with DSC off and on 93 octane.

A stock DCT M4 would run about 4.8-4.9 seconds

Stage 1 set on +4psi 60-100mph in 3.85 seconds



Stage 1 set on +2.5psi 60-100mph in 4.17 seconds

That's pretty interesting. Was having the exact issue as you have listed on #1. I removed the tune like a month ago since It was going in for service and MPE install this week. I was getting misfire issues around 6500+ RPM. I live by the coast but it doesn't really get that cold. I will put it back in this weekend and try it again.

Thanks!

[Irishsig]

Originally Posted by JoeyBananas

Will a really long flathead help?

(Sorry, don't have the car yet not familiar with the engine bay, lol)

That's what I used, but it still will take some time and a lot of patience.
The tough part is getting your hand in deep enough to reach the map sensor in order to line it up before you plug it in.
With my average size hands I could reach it, but only with the tips pf my fingers.
Manipulating it around with just your fingertips in a tight space is very difficult.
I'm thinking forceps would go a long way to help lining it up.

[JoeyBananas]

Originally Posted by Irishsig

That's what I used, but it still will take some time and a lot of patience.
The tough part is getting your hand in deep enough to reach the map sensor in order to line it up before you plug it in.
With my average size hands I could reach it, but only with the tips pf my fingers.
Manipulating it around with just your fingertips in a tight space is very difficult.
I'm thinking forceps would go a long way to help lining it up.

Thanks! Might have to go buy some. "Pay for tools not labor" right?

[///F80M3]

Here's the video of one run. I know its very quick run but my dashcam messed up the files on the other runs so I can't put it together. As you u can see he stays right next me the whole time until I braked. Even the longer runs on empty road ended with the same results.

[JoeyBananas]

Odd............. I guess it's not doing anything or your buddies car is a freak

[ShlemonboostedM]

I can tell a pretty noticeable difference between stock and map 1 .. Specially from a roll it pulls like freight train

[///F80M3]

Originally Posted by JoeyBananas

Odd............. I guess it's not doing anything or your buddies car is a freak

Lol yea I just wanted to pull a little but as u can see we were side by side with no one pulling ahead.

[///F80M3]

Originally Posted by ShlemonboostedM

I can tell a pretty noticeable difference between stock and map 1 .. Specially from a roll it pulls like freight train

It felt faster for me but when my friend drove it he didn't notice difference.

[EALm4]

For those struggling with the MAP and TMAP sensors. Dont use a flat head or any angled pliers. Use a right angle pick as shown below. You should be able to pop these off in under a minute or two. Take the time to actually look at where the clip is and slide the pick under it. Dont just go and try to attack it with something like a flat head expecting to pry it up immediately.

[Irishsig]

Originally Posted by EALm4

For those struggling with the MAP and TMAP sensors. Dont use a flat head or any angled pliers. Use a right angle pick as shown below. You should be able to pop these off in under a minute or two. Take the time to actually look at where the clip is and slide the pick under it. Dont just go and try to attack it with something like a flat head expecting to pry it up immediately.

Unplugging it isn't the issue. As stated earlier the real PITA is aligning it and re-plugging the MAP sensor back in.

FYI for anyone else having issues I just ordered some $8 locking angled forceps from amazon.
I'll test em' out next week to see if it saves any time and get back to you all.

[CosmosMpower]

Waiting for his buddy to post a thread about how he secretly installed a JB4 and is laughing his butt off at this thread

[M_DRlVER]

Installed mine today. Only other performance mod is filters. DEFINITELY pulls harder now. I thought the front end was going to leave the ground at 80mph. Install took me 30-40 minutes.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by M_DRlVER

Installed mine today. Only other performance mod is filters. DEFINITELY pulls harder now. I thought the front end was going to leave the ground at 80mph. Install took me 30-40 minutes.

Awesome!!

Im assuming you got the Jb4 right ? (40 minutes is a really long time for a stage 1)

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by M_DRlVER

Installed mine today. Only other performance mod is filters. DEFINITELY pulls harder now. I thought the front end was going to leave the ground at 80mph. Install took me 30-40 minutes.

LOL.. Need a BIG shopping cart like spoiler to keep her planted

Mike

[ZKing1208]

Originally Posted by CosmosMpower

Waiting for his buddy to post a thread about how he secretly installed a JB4 and is laughing his butt off at this thread

Lmao