First HPDE in F82 - Checklist Help

[su_root]

Did a few events/weekends in the E92 M3 that had mods but my F82 is fully stock at the moment. I have a few events planned in my head but a lot of those plans will depend how things go at first event. You guys helped me make changes in the E92 back then so I felt I would post my thoughts again and listen for some recommendations on prepping the F82 for track events to make sure I have a good time and don't damage the car.

F82 Specs as she sits:
-6MT
-Continental Tyres(255R19/275R19)
-CCB
-NON-EDC Suspension
-M Aero Parts(Lip+Splitters+Spoiler)

Goals for first event:
-Learn the limits and learn car control of this platform
-Don't damage anything
-Learn the 6MT(last M3 was DCT)

So here are My thoughts on each subject:

Tyres:
Not much I can do here except watch the PSI and adjust after each session accordingly. Don't want to purchase tyres for first event. I figure anything I buy will be an 'upgrade' so I rather learn the limits as factory spec.

Brakes:
-Fluid: Flush with SRF or similar?
-Pads: Measure thickness after event and keep at 50%+ to keep the CCB rotors happy.

Suspension:
-Nothing to adjust here?

Drive Settings:
Here is an area I have questions on.

-What Engine and Steering settings should I consider?

-DSC/MDM: full on or mid or full off? How to correctly set each setting?

Thanks for reading!

[Doctor///M]

Saw a similar thread here:

Definitive YOUR 1st hand Tracking Set Up, and Experience http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1130884

[afadeev]

Originally Posted by su_root

Did a few events/weekends in the E92 M3 that had mods but my F82 is fully stock at the moment. I have a few events planned in my head but a lot of those plans will depend how things go at first event.

So here are My thoughts on each subject:
Tyres:
Brakes:
Suspension:
Drive Settings:
-What Engine and Steering settings should I consider?
-DSC/MDM: full on or mid or full off? How to correctly set each setting?

Tires, brakes, suspension - need NOTHING for the first event.
Don't let the internet and mods get in the way of your first DE. You will learn way more by doing, then you ever will be reading.

Settings: Sport+ everything, MDM (for the first event, full OFF when ready - you will know when yourself!).

a

[DaEagle]

I had my first track day in my M3 a couple of weeks ago so thought I'd post my experiences because they're a little different. I've previously tracked a 2013 Boxster S so I have some experience.

Firstly, I had an amazing time. This car is fast! I setup with Euro MDM and flushed my brake system before I went (I used brembo fluid as I didn't trust the OEM fluid). The car handled well. I think there was a little brake fade, not much and the rear end is a little unstable on hard braking (I've heard adjusting the alignment can help with this).

Onto the bad parts. During the sessions the car was fine. However, about halfway home (presumably after the brakes had fully cooled off), the car started vibrating badly when braking above 30mph (even light braking). I thought maybe it was uneven wear on the brakes so I did a few hard braking cycles to re-bed the brakes. It seemed to help a little but then reverted after a short period of time.

I took the car into BMW Bellevue. They took a look at it and determined the rotors were warped (what I expected). On top of that, BMW North America refused to cover it under warranty. Luckily BMW Bellevue covered it out of 'good will'. I will be contacting BMW NA shortly and expressing my disappointment of the fact that they wouldn't cover it and that it happened in the first place. This is a car that's marketed towards track use and occasional usage shouldn't cause these sorts of problems.

Now I'm stuck with a dilemma. What should I do before my next track session. I was already planning on using Pagrid pads. However, now I need to do something about the rotors. I'm thinking of either trying RacingBrake pads and/or the Revozport cooling ducts. I'd rather not spend $10k overhalling the whole system with Brembo's for the occasional track day. Thoughts?

[Reach]

If you really did warp rotors from track heat, it was either from dragging the brakes too long in your braking zones, or MDM's constant interference, or both. OEM pads weren't helping you there either, causing longer braking (less force than a track pad). I'm not seeing a lot of complaints about warped rotors here in the track forum, and I haven't experienced it myself. I'd suggest doing a track weekend on your new factory rotor setup with DSC fully OFF first. Learn to control the car and trust yourself with it. Also, if the car isn't wiggly when braking hard on your long straights, then you're not braking hard enough!

The Pagid RS29 pads have been a proven good product, so I would switch to them. I don't know what fluid you used but I will presume you chose something up to the task. I use simple old ATE Typ 200 (cheap yellow stuff) and it has worked fine.

I may do brake cooling / ducting one day, but I haven't needed it yet. Once July rolls around I may change my tune on that.

[DaEagle]

Thanks for the tips. I suspect I was definitely braking hard enough (at least when I was on my own. It's a little harder when in traffic). The car was definitely wiggly when braking hard on long straights! My instructor was actually surprised at how quickly the car was stopping on the OEM brakes.

You may have a point on the DSC. I don't think it was doing much apart from entry onto the main straight where it was flashing a little as I was putting the power down (which is interesting because I didn't think I was giving it too much throttle).

I was going to Pagid RS29's anyway for my next session. I'm thinking I might do the front ducts at the same time. They're not that expensive and I'm thinking it will probably help a bunch. Whilst the dealer replaced all 4 rotors, I'd be surprised if the rears were worked hard enough to warp them.

[afadeev]

Originally Posted by DaEagle

Now I'm stuck with a dilemma. What should I do before my next track session. I was already planning on using Pagrid pads. However, now I need to do something about the rotors. I'm thinking of either trying RacingBrake pads and/or the Revozport cooling ducts. I'd rather not spend $10k overhalling the whole system with Brembo's for the occasional track day. Thoughts?

Pagid RS29's with stock rotors work perfectly well for repeated 140->3rd gear and 100->3rd gear braking zones, lap after lap after lap.

The challenge with stock pads is that they will overheat if you go fast enough (and so will the stock PSS tires!), which will extend your brake distances. If you are not paying attention to slow down for a few laps to cool the brakes, you may be tempted to stomp on the brakes sooner, which will overheat them more and can lead to either warping the rotors, or applying uneven pad deposits onto them (resulting in similar vibration).

Start by going with RS29's.
Then pay attention to the brakes, and if your track can overwhelm even Pagids (Road America?), then slow down to cool them off, or install brake ducts.

a

[nicknaz]

Hi OP, I think you can just go for it, and eventually get DSC OFF when you are ready. I personally use euro MDM when learning a new track or if its wet

[Candide13]

Originally Posted by DaEagle

I had my first track day in my M3 a couple of weeks ago so thought I'd post my experiences because they're a little different. I've previously tracked a 2013 Boxster S so I have some experience.

Firstly, I had an amazing time. This car is fast! I setup with Euro MDM and flushed my brake system before I went (I used brembo fluid as I didn't trust the OEM fluid). The car handled well. I think there was a little brake fade, not much and the rear end is a little unstable on hard braking (I've heard adjusting the alignment can help with this).

Onto the bad parts. During the sessions the car was fine. However, about halfway home (presumably after the brakes had fully cooled off), the car started vibrating badly when braking above 30mph (even light braking). I thought maybe it was uneven wear on the brakes so I did a few hard braking cycles to re-bed the brakes. It seemed to help a little but then reverted after a short period of time.

I took the car into BMW Bellevue. They took a look at it and determined the rotors were warped (what I expected). On top of that, BMW North America refused to cover it under warranty. Luckily BMW Bellevue covered it out of 'good will'. I will be contacting BMW NA shortly and expressing my disappointment of the fact that they wouldn't cover it and that it happened in the first place. This is a car that's marketed towards track use and occasional usage shouldn't cause these sorts of problems.

Now I'm stuck with a dilemma. What should I do before my next track session. I was already planning on using Pagrid pads. However, now I need to do something about the rotors. I'm thinking of either trying RacingBrake pads and/or the Revozport cooling ducts. I'd rather not spend $10k overhalling the whole system with Brembo's for the occasional track day. Thoughts?

It is very unlikely that you warped the rotors, much more likely cause is pad deposits on the rotors from the OEM pads. Hard to diagnose, because it won't be visible by eye and superficially will produce measurements like a warped rotor if you use a micrometer.

Hard braking a few times with OEM pads will not clear those deposits; it either takes hundreds of miles of normal use or braking with cold racing pads to clean the rotors. Happens all the time with these cars..

[MasterP]

Just because the car is marketed as being track capable doesn't mean they should cover damage or wear on the track - particularly on consumables. Track wear is owner influence. You take it to the track you take on all the risks and wear.

CCB's you won't get a lot of deposits or worry about warped rotors. Iron brakes forget it. Stock pads inadequate. Even at noob levels smearing, melting, or deposits are going to happen.

The least that should be done would be to flush out that OEM DOT4. It's not suitable for track work either, particularly with CCB's as they have a higher heat threshold.

Take a Torque wrench, and a tire gauge - preferably with the ability to bleed out air.

[Degobar]

Hi everyone,
I’m new here, writing from Switzerland.
I tracked my F82 M4 with steel brakes 5 times now, and I’d like to share my experience.
Before my first track day I installed Pagid RS, replaced stock brake lines with steel ones, and changed brake fluid with Castrol SRF (I think). Stock MPSS tyres.
Depending on the track, brakes performance went from “no problem” to “can’t handle more than one fast lap” (the latter happened in Monza, a very, very fast race track which is just too demanding for my current brakes setup).
On my previous cars I also used Pagid RS, and they were ok. On the M4, for some reason I’m less happy, they just don’t have the byte I was expecting.

I’m now thinking about installing Revozport brakes cooling ducts, but I still can’t figure out whether they can be installed without the M Performance front lip or not.

Cheers

[wkndracr]

I finally got my F82 on track at Pocono last weekend. Pagid RS29 and Ate type200 with Nitto NT-05 275/295 worked well for me. Being new to the car and this particular track, I cheated and left it in sport and let the car do the Rev matching to take one variable out of the equation. As an intermediate level driver, I planned on using MDM mode (US spec) but was surprised to actually hear my brakes squealing even before I hit the brake pedal as I lifted to enter the infield from the oval. I figured I had no choice but to go full off, and was pleasantly surprised and how easy the car was to control. I still left MDM on until the tires and brakes got up to temp at the start of each session. I didn't really have any issues with the car getting out of shape with everything off, although I've been told by instructors in the past that my inputs are pretty smooth, so I guess that helps. I did get the tail to kick out slightly coming out of a tight right hander a few times (3rd gear), but it was very gradual and easily corrected with steady throttle and some countersteer. The car has way more capability than I do, but wasn't a handful by any means, even after tracking a Miata the past few years, where mashing the go pedal is pretty uneventful.

[M3 Number 86]

You need this lol