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      10-09-2022, 09:02 AM   #67
Blackeyeii
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Stocking up to do this on my own clunkzilla

Wow thanks everyone for this post, it has been super informative. My 2016 F80 has become a bit of a clunkzilla during hard driving, and sure enough my rear diff bushing has a good size crack in it. (need to inspect fronts today)

Just collecting everything I think I need for this, can you please take a quick look and see if I am missing anything? I also had some open questions about procedure/tools if you could answer, I would appreciate it.

Parts/Tools Needed: (thanks for previous posts with all of this, just summarizing so I don't miss something
=================================================
4X repair screws M12x1.5x115 (part number: 07 14 7 426 660)
4X washers 37x2.5 (part number: 31 33 6 776 760)
1X E-Torx Double Box End Racheting Wrench Set
4X (recommended)Replacement subframe bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-9-33302284642
4X (recommended)Replacement Drive Shaft Bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475
4X (recommended)Replacement Drive shaft nuts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563
1X Transmission Jack (https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-61232.html) ( .. looks like I need one of those (I have floor jacks/bottle jacks, lots of jack stands etc already)
1X Bushing removal tool (see question below)https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
1X Powerflex Rear (street) rear bushing : https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...-2894#attr=679
1X Powerflex Rear (street) front bushing kit for F80 : https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...1792#attr=2173


Parts/Tools questions:
Do you need this diff busing removal tool? (It looks like the autozone kit might work but that seems to be done with the bushing bracket totally removed...)
I read about some fat zip ties to attach the rear axles to the subframe do I need those?
I have 1/2 and 3/8 sockets but I only have swivles in 3/8, do I need a 1/2inch swivel
I have a fairly large set of end wrenches/sockets etc, just looking for anything special, that I might need.


Procedural questions:
Do I need a four wheel alignment after I perform this? Maybe just because the subframe removal and install can shift some small amount. (my guess)
Do I need to replace the front differential support bushings, if only my rear has a crack? (or are most of you doing that just because you are in there already?)
This feels like a really good time to upgrade my factory mid pipe, and it looks like if I do that I might be able to leave my rear mufflers attached (as they will be cut from stock mid pipe). Did anyone with a non-stock midpipe just remove the midpipe? (it may just be pain to deal with a dangling rear section... not sure)

Thank you all in advance!
Russ

Last edited by Blackeyeii; 10-09-2022 at 09:28 AM..
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      10-14-2022, 01:22 PM   #68
marauder1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackeyeii View Post
Wow thanks everyone for this post, it has been super informative. My 2016 F80 has become a bit of a clunkzilla during hard driving, and sure enough my rear diff bushing has a good size crack in it. (need to inspect fronts today)

Just collecting everything I think I need for this, can you please take a quick look and see if I am missing anything? I also had some open questions about procedure/tools if you could answer, I would appreciate it.

Parts/Tools Needed: (thanks for previous posts with all of this, just summarizing so I don't miss something
=================================================
4X repair screws M12x1.5x115 (part number: 07 14 7 426 660)
4X washers 37x2.5 (part number: 31 33 6 776 760)
1X E-Torx Double Box End Racheting Wrench Set
4X (recommended)Replacement subframe bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-9-33302284642
4X (recommended)Replacement Drive Shaft Bolts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...s3-26117527475
4X (recommended)Replacement Drive shaft nuts: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ut-26127536563
1X Transmission Jack (https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-61232.html) ( .. looks like I need one of those (I have floor jacks/bottle jacks, lots of jack stands etc already)
1X Bushing removal tool (see question below)https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../024979sch01a/
1X Powerflex Rear (street) rear bushing : https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...-2894#attr=679
1X Powerflex Rear (street) front bushing kit for F80 : https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...1792#attr=2173


Parts/Tools questions:
Do you need this diff busing removal tool? (It looks like the autozone kit might work but that seems to be done with the bushing bracket totally removed...)
I read about some fat zip ties to attach the rear axles to the subframe do I need those?
I have 1/2 and 3/8 sockets but I only have swivles in 3/8, do I need a 1/2inch swivel
I have a fairly large set of end wrenches/sockets etc, just looking for anything special, that I might need.


Procedural questions:
Do I need a four wheel alignment after I perform this? Maybe just because the subframe removal and install can shift some small amount. (my guess)
Do I need to replace the front differential support bushings, if only my rear has a crack? (or are most of you doing that just because you are in there already?)
This feels like a really good time to upgrade my factory mid pipe, and it looks like if I do that I might be able to leave my rear mufflers attached (as they will be cut from stock mid pipe). Did anyone with a non-stock midpipe just remove the midpipe? (it may just be pain to deal with a dangling rear section... not sure)

Thank you all in advance!
Russ
I'll answer everything in the order it was posted.
Parts/Tools Answers
The E-Torx wrench is helpful for one of the subframe bolts, but isn't needed if you wnated to save some money. I've used them elsewhere though so I like them. Like on the oil filter housing assembly.
The ECS bushing removal tool, won't work on the rear bushing, the bushing is too big. There is a seperate cup and press from BMW you need. I tried an autozone kit, and it was also too small. I ended up using the largest one they had which ripped the center part of the bushing out, then used a hacksaw to cut the metal ring on the bushing still in the subframe.
The parts for the bmw press should be: 83302361902 83302361908 then use the rod and washer from the ECS kit
No need to pull the axles, so no need for zip ties to told them. Use zip ties to hold the brake calipers to the LCA
I didn't use any Swivel sockets
Only unique would be the T60, T55 sockets you need. If you're on a lift of anykind, before you jack the car up there is a bolt right behind the rear lift point, its a T60, remove that before putting the car up. For me the lift blocked access to it.

Procedural Ansers:
I got an alignment afterwards because the following week, I also had my front subframe out for crank hub. My alignment was barely off, so I'd say you don't need one.
Most of us do the front bushings as we're in there
You'll want the rear muffler off, it'll just get in the way.
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      10-16-2022, 05:33 AM   #69
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Thanks, ill take a look.
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      10-20-2022, 10:07 PM   #70
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Thanks

Thanks! I have everything on order parts wise, and have already got the email saying some things are delayed... (normal bmw part issues)

I went ahead and treated myself to a new AA mid pipe that I will put in when I am doing all this.

I will let the post know how it turns out.
Between tools and parts I have about $900 in this already, but I will have the tools after.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
I'll answer everything in the order it was posted.
Parts/Tools Answers
The E-Torx wrench is helpful for one of the subframe bolts, but isn't needed if you wnated to save some money. I've used them elsewhere though so I like them. Like on the oil filter housing assembly.
The ECS bushing removal tool, won't work on the rear bushing, the bushing is too big. There is a seperate cup and press from BMW you need. I tried an autozone kit, and it was also too small. I ended up using the largest one they had which ripped the center part of the bushing out, then used a hacksaw to cut the metal ring on the bushing still in the subframe.
The parts for the bmw press should be: 83302361902 83302361908 then use the rod and washer from the ECS kit
No need to pull the axles, so no need for zip ties to told them. Use zip ties to hold the brake calipers to the LCA
I didn't use any Swivel sockets
Only unique would be the T60, T55 sockets you need. If you're on a lift of anykind, before you jack the car up there is a bolt right behind the rear lift point, its a T60, remove that before putting the car up. For me the lift blocked access to it.

Procedural Ansers:
I got an alignment afterwards because the following week, I also had my front subframe out for crank hub. My alignment was barely off, so I'd say you don't need one.
Most of us do the front bushings as we're in there
You'll want the rear muffler off, it'll just get in the way.
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      10-23-2022, 09:34 AM   #71
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Shops in my area were wanting $1200-1500 for the job.
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      10-30-2022, 05:20 PM   #72
Blackeyeii
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$12-$1500 isn't horrible if you start to add up all the tools/parts/time on this one.

If my local BMW shop had actually returned any of my emails I would have gone that route, but I am in it now.

I have all the parts now (as of an hour ago), except for three bits. (that most people wouldn't need)
2 X downpipe to midpipe gaskets which I just ordered. (‎18307851168R) - because I am swapping in a new midpipe...
1 X Turner motorsports rear shifter bushing (because I am in there already)

Car is up on the quickJacks and I have removed the factory exhaust for now, and will start the rest of this work this next weekend.

wish me luck!



P.S. Anyone know where to get the genuine BMW transmission fluid for the F80? ECS tuning finally cancelled my order for the fluid since it was on never-ending backorder.
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      10-30-2022, 10:06 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackeyeii View Post
$12-$1500 isn't horrible if you start to add up all the tools/parts/time on this one.

If my local BMW shop had actually returned any of my emails I would have gone that route, but I am in it now.

I have all the parts now (as of an hour ago), except for three bits. (that most people wouldn't need)
2 X downpipe to midpipe gaskets which I just ordered. (‎18307851168R) - because I am swapping in a new midpipe...
1 X Turner motorsports rear shifter bushing (because I am in there already)

Car is up on the quickJacks and I have removed the factory exhaust for now, and will start the rest of this work this next weekend.

wish me luck!



P.S. Anyone know where to get the genuine BMW transmission fluid for the F80? ECS tuning finally cancelled my order for the fluid since it was on never-ending backorder.
Go with Motul DCTF for the manual transmission fluid on FCPEuro
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      01-04-2023, 02:08 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marauder1 View Post
I'll answer everything in the order it was posted.
Parts/Tools Answers
The E-Torx wrench is helpful for one of the subframe bolts, but isn't needed if you wnated to save some money. I've used them elsewhere though so I like them. Like on the oil filter housing assembly.
The ECS bushing removal tool, won't work on the rear bushing, the bushing is too big. There is a seperate cup and press from BMW you need. I tried an autozone kit, and it was also too small. I ended up using the largest one they had which ripped the center part of the bushing out, then used a hacksaw to cut the metal ring on the bushing still in the subframe.
The parts for the bmw press should be: 83302361902 83302361908 then use the rod and washer from the ECS kit
No need to pull the axles, so no need for zip ties to told them. Use zip ties to hold the brake calipers to the LCA
I didn't use any Swivel sockets
Only unique would be the T60, T55 sockets you need. If you're on a lift of anykind, before you jack the car up there is a bolt right behind the rear lift point, its a T60, remove that before putting the car up. For me the lift blocked access to it.

Procedural Ansers:
I got an alignment afterwards because the following week, I also had my front subframe out for crank hub. My alignment was barely off, so I'd say you don't need one.
Most of us do the front bushings as we're in there
You'll want the rear muffler off, it'll just get in the way.
One guy was also saying you need a 21mm Allen and 16mm Allen? Is that correct?
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      01-04-2023, 02:14 PM   #75
marauder1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thicsilverf30 View Post
One guy was also saying you need a 21mm Allen and 16mm Allen? Is that correct?
Can’t think of anywhere you’d need a21mm or 16mm Allen. Don’t think those bolt sizes are used by bmw.
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      01-07-2023, 07:49 AM   #76
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Can anyone list the size and length of all the bolts needed for the differential bushing install?

4 subframe bolts - M12 1.5 x 60(?)mm
4 diff bolts - M12 1.5 x 80(?)mm
6 guibo bolts - M12 1.5 x 60(?)mm
1 - M14 1.5 x 85mm


I know I’m missing a few. I’m switching everything from galvanized steel over to grade 5 titanium
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      04-01-2023, 08:03 PM   #77
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Just wrapped this up and found this thread helpful. Installed powerflex bushings and the turner dual mount. Nothing tricky , just takes time. Appreciate all the info. Used the opportunity to install a gtmore sway bar too.
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      09-09-2023, 02:21 PM   #78
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Hello,

My rear diff bushing also cracked, I want to replace only this one, the front bushings look ok.

If I use the service repair bolts for the subframe, there is enough room to install a new Powerflex bushing? That's to say, do I mandatory need to remove the front bolts of the diff if I don't expect to replace the front bushings?

Thanks !
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      09-20-2023, 05:32 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jagus View Post
Hello,

My rear diff bushing also cracked, I want to replace only this one, the front bushings look ok.

If I use the service repair bolts for the subframe, there is enough room to install a new Powerflex bushing? That's to say, do I mandatory need to remove the front bolts of the diff if I don't expect to replace the front bushings?

Thanks !
Its been a while but i think you will still need to remove the front bolts so you can move the diff around. Otherwise the diff will be tight to the rear bushing if the front bolts are still mounted.
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      09-21-2023, 12:34 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hC1001 View Post
Its been a while but i think you will still need to remove the front bolts so you can move the diff around. Otherwise the diff will be tight to the rear bushing if the front bolts are still mounted.
Thank you very much!!
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      10-19-2023, 10:57 AM   #81
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Thanks for all the info guys. I will be just replacing the rear bushing with the powerflex purple.

My only worry is getting my rusty bolts off the downpipe to midpipe lol
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      11-18-2023, 03:08 PM   #82
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Anybody ever done the dual mount bracket with PF bushings and left the front bushings alone?
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