Driver side vs Passenger lopsided fitment?

[s55jesus]

So not sure what would cause this but passenger side front + rear looks like it has more camber than the drivers side, causing the wheels to look off on the passenger side.

However, camber adjustments are the exact same and I took it to 3 different alignment shops to verify. Last shop told me the subframe might have shifted? Is that even a thing? Would appreciate it if anyone can chime in. 0 accidents btw.

[attkspec]

I noticed the same on my car, however all alignment specs are matched side to side. My theory is that it maybe has to do with corner balancing from the factory but I've not been able to confirm.

[s55jesus]

Originally Posted by yufai

I noticed the same on my car, however all alignment specs are matched side to side. My theory is that it maybe has to do with corner balancing from the factory but I've not been able to confirm.

Car has been corner balanced already as well on KW Clubsport 3 ways.

[peekeesh]

Originally Posted by s55jesus

So not sure what would cause this but passenger side front + rear looks like it has more camber than the drivers side, causing the wheels to look off on the passenger side.

However, camber adjustments are the exact same and I took it to 3 different alignment shops to verify. Last shop told me the subframe might have shifted? Is that even a thing? Would appreciate it if anyone can chime in. 0 accidents btw.

Hey bud, did you figure this out?

The rear of my car has somewhat similar issue. The camber is set to -1.8 both sides and the driver side pokes out a little more. You can tell the difference when you eyeball it. It's like the passenger side has more negative camber. The tire rubs on the driver side while the passenger side doesn't.

I was under the car this morning and have loosen all the rear subframe bolts and the bolts/nuts that hold the aluminum brackets that attach to the frame and subframe. I was able to shift the subframe to the right (passenger side). I haven't finished tightening everything as I need to go to work but I'm hoping that takes care of the issue.

no accidents on the car but I did lower the rear subframe like 3 mos ago to replace the diff bushings.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by attkspec

I noticed the same on my car, however all alignment specs are matched side to side. My theory is that it maybe has to do with corner balancing from the factory but I've not been able to confirm.

Cars do not come corner balanced from the factory. To corner balance you need springs with adjustable height; e.g., you need something like the MPHAS with front and rear threaded mounts

Originally Posted by peekeesh

Hey bud, did you figure this out?

The rear of my car has somewhat similar issue. The camber is set to -1.8 both sides and the driver side pokes out a little more. You can tell the difference when you eyeball it. It's like the passenger side has more negative camber. The tire rubs on the driver side while the passenger side doesn't.

I was under the car this morning and have loosen all the rear subframe bolts and the bolts/nuts that hold the aluminum brackets that attach to the frame and subframe. I was able to shift the subframe to the right (passenger side). I haven't finished tightening everything as I need to go to work but I'm hoping that takes care of the issue.

no accidents on the car but I did lower the rear subframe like 3 mos ago to replace the diff bushings.

There should be practically no play in the subframe. However, there are several manufacturing tolerances that stack up, such as the subframe suspension pickup points, suspension arm lengths and bushing radial offsets, quarter panel manufacturing, quarter panel to chassis welds, hub and rotor mounting surfaces, wheel pad to face/rim, etc., that results in the wheel/tire to quarter panel visual lateral offset. If you look at the chassis repair tolerances on frame, body and suspension you’re taking about 0.0x” to 0.xx” deltas. The differences you’re seeing is not an issue unless your subframe was somehow damaged in a severe accident.

[peekeesh]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Cars do not come corner balanced from the factory. To corner balance you need springs with adjustable height; e.g., you need something like the MPHAS with front and rear threaded mounts




There should be practically no play in the subframe. However, there are several manufacturing tolerances that stack up, such as the subframe suspension pickup points, suspension arm lengths and bushing radial offsets, quarter panel manufacturing, quarter panel to chassis welds, hub and rotor mounting surfaces, wheel pad to face/rim, etc., that results in the wheel/tire to quarter panel visual lateral offset. If you look at the chassis repair tolerances on frame, body and suspension you’re taking about 0.0x” to 0.xx” deltas. The differences you’re seeing is not an issue unless your subframe was somehow damaged in a severe accident.

There's a few mm of play. If you loosen all 4 bolts that hold the rear subframe and loosen the aluminum bracket, you will be able to move the rear subframe by a few mms. maybe max 2mms left/right.

The car hasn't been in any accident. But I think this happened when I loosened the rear subframe to install the rear diff bushings. And when I bolted it back up, it probably moved a little bit to the left.

Anyway, I've fixed my issue. I had to push the subframe all the way to the right and tighten all bolts. They're even now. re-checked alignment and it's still within range.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by peekeesh

There's a few mm of play. If you loosen all 4 bolts that hold the rear subframe and loosen the aluminum bracket, you will be able to move the rear subframe by a few mms. maybe max 2mms left/right.

The car hasn't been in any accident. But I think this happened when I loosened the rear subframe to install the rear diff bushings. And when I bolted it back up, it probably moved a little bit to the left.

Anyway, I've fixed my issue. I had to push the subframe all the way to the right and tighten all bolts. They're even now. re-checked alignment and it's still within range.

Yes, i said practically no play. Wasn’t expecting you to say < 80 mil. Yeah, that’s a significant shift

So you’re saying you can visually see a 0.0787” difference between sides, especially when you can’t see the two sides simultaneously? In my industry we need to use optical cameras to measure an 80 mil variation in large structures yet you can visually see it.

[peekeesh]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

Yes, i said practically no play. Wasn’t expecting you to say < 80 mil. Yeah, that’s a significant shift

So you’re saying you can visually see a 0.0787” difference between sides, especially when you can’t see the two sides simultaneously? In my industry we need to use optical cameras to measure an 80 mil variation in large structures yet you can visually see it.

When I was running 666 wheels, it was not noticeable. But after I changed wheels, it became very obvious. wheel/tire spec is on the aggressive side. 19x11 38 with 305/30 tires.

with -1.8 camber on both sides, the tire sticks out and rubs on the rear driver side while it doesn't rub at all and looks pushed in on the rear passenger side. Should've taken before and after pics.

edit: there's probably more than 2mm play, maybe about 5mm. I'll measure. I did mark it before I moved the subframe.