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      08-20-2021, 03:08 PM   #199
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my oil change is due very soon,, I'm currently using oil from the dealership 0w-40, is there a equivalent as someone mentioned BMW does not make oil. I rather purchase the oil and filter and do it myself.
N/S55 can use oils that don't have LL01 approval.
Castrol 0W40 would be my go to if 0W40 is imperative.
Thanks for the quick reply, I don't use my car in the colder months because of summer tires. Is it safe to use the 5w-40 Castile edge?
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      08-20-2021, 06:30 PM   #200
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
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Originally Posted by PhatLyfe View Post
my oil change is due very soon,, I'm currently using oil from the dealership 0w-40, is there a equivalent as someone mentioned BMW does not make oil. I rather purchase the oil and filter and do it myself.
N/S55 can use oils that don't have LL01 approval.
Castrol 0W40 would be my go to if 0W40 is imperative.
Thanks for the quick reply, I don't use my car in the colder months because of summer tires. Is it safe to use the 5w-40 Castile edge?
Of course. But Castrol Edge 5W40 is step down. If you want LL01 go Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40. Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40 is also better than Edge 5W40.
Really good LL01 oil is Motul 5W40 X-Cess GEN2. That would be my first option if LL01 is imperative.
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      08-20-2021, 06:48 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
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Originally Posted by edycol View Post
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Originally Posted by PhatLyfe View Post
my oil change is due very soon,, I'm currently using oil from the dealership 0w-40, is there a equivalent as someone mentioned BMW does not make oil. I rather purchase the oil and filter and do it myself.
N/S55 can use oils that don't have LL01 approval.
Castrol 0W40 would be my go to if 0W40 is imperative.
Thanks for the quick reply, I don't use my car in the colder months because of summer tires. Is it safe to use the 5w-40 Castile edge?
Of course. But Castrol Edge 5W40 is step down. If you want LL01 go Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40. Valvoline European Vehicle 5W40 is also better than Edge 5W40.
Really good LL01 oil is Motul 5W40 X-Cess GEN2. That would be my first option if LL01 is imperative.
Thanks , I'll look for that kit
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      08-24-2021, 07:32 AM   #202
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Been spending a lot more time on Bobistheoilguy forums…

If anyone is looking for an overkill niche oil, High Performance Lubricants just released their passenger car motor oil line. I wouldn't advise on running it unless you are catless since the additives are over the top. We are talking 900ppm moly and close to 4000 calcium over the top with TBN of 13.5 lol… with that said, based on specs alone, it pretty much blows Redline and 300V out of the water since this oil seems to do well up to 15-20k drain intervals.

Here is the BITOG link if anyone is curious.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...series.344421/
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      08-24-2021, 11:44 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Been spending a lot more time on Bobistheoilguy forums…

If anyone is looking for an overkill niche oil, High Performance Lubricants just released their passenger car motor oil line. I wouldn't advise on running it unless you are catless since the additives are over the top. We are talking 900ppm moly and close to 4000 calcium over the top with TBN of 13.5 lol… with that said, based on specs alone, it pretty much blows Redline and 300V out of the water since this oil seems to do well up to 15-20k drain intervals.

Here is the BITOG link if anyone is curious.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...series.344421/
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
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      08-24-2021, 12:07 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
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      08-24-2021, 12:49 PM   #205
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Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Good point forgot about that.
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      08-25-2021, 07:50 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
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      08-25-2021, 09:03 AM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
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      08-25-2021, 09:11 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
So, several things.
BMW recommends LL01 too, not just LL01 FE. Mpg is reason, but not primary one. Extremely high TBN oils don't match well to direct injection engines. Turbos especially like lower SAPS oil. Anywhere where there is a lot of heat, oils with lower sulfated ash and phosphorus are better. Also, bcs. VANOS, and, yes OCI, BMW likes oils that have oxidation in check.
Today it is hard to find oils with extreme TBN outside of truly racing stuff. And even then, TBN is questionable bcs. turbos etc. Motul 300V is not particularly high on TBN. Also, what kind of additives? Problem is that additives for track, racing purposes are different than those for street use.
But think about this, by far highest TBN of available oils have Mobil1 0W40 FS, 5W40 FS and 5W50 FS. If you want super greasy package, doesn't get better than that.
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      08-25-2021, 03:50 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
So, several things.
BMW recommends LL01 too, not just LL01 FE. Mpg is reason, but not primary one. Extremely high TBN oils don't match well to direct injection engines. Turbos especially like lower SAPS oil. Anywhere where there is a lot of heat, oils with lower sulfated ash and phosphorus are better. Also, bcs. VANOS, and, yes OCI, BMW likes oils that have oxidation in check.
Today it is hard to find oils with extreme TBN outside of truly racing stuff. And even then, TBN is questionable bcs. turbos etc. Motul 300V is not particularly high on TBN. Also, what kind of additives? Problem is that additives for track, racing purposes are different than those for street use.
But think about this, by far highest TBN of available oils have Mobil1 0W40 FS, 5W40 FS and 5W50 FS. If you want super greasy package, doesn't get better than that.
Wasn't the original purpose of low saps (eg LL-04) to keep OPF/DPF happy? How would running a low saps oil help if you don't have cats, OPFs or DPFs? Just genuinely curious.

The other argument for low saps is lower carbon deposits, but I think the jury is still out on that since there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of research done.

Most oils are still full to mid saps aside from LL-04 due to the reason above, no?
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      08-25-2021, 05:05 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
So, several things.
BMW recommends LL01 too, not just LL01 FE. Mpg is reason, but not primary one. Extremely high TBN oils don't match well to direct injection engines. Turbos especially like lower SAPS oil. Anywhere where there is a lot of heat, oils with lower sulfated ash and phosphorus are better. Also, bcs. VANOS, and, yes OCI, BMW likes oils that have oxidation in check.
Today it is hard to find oils with extreme TBN outside of truly racing stuff. And even then, TBN is questionable bcs. turbos etc. Motul 300V is not particularly high on TBN. Also, what kind of additives? Problem is that additives for track, racing purposes are different than those for street use.
But think about this, by far highest TBN of available oils have Mobil1 0W40 FS, 5W40 FS and 5W50 FS. If you want super greasy package, doesn't get better than that.
Wasn't the original purpose of low saps (eg LL-04) to keep OPF/DPF happy? How would running a low saps oil help if you don't have cats, OPFs or DPFs? Just genuinely curious.

The other argument for low saps is lower carbon deposits, but I think the jury is still out on that since there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of research done.

Most oils are still full to mid saps aside from LL-04 due to the reason above, no?
So in Europe manufacturers use lower SAPS oils in gasoline engines since 2009. Lower SAPS usually have higher flash point as well as less engine deposits. Original purpose is to increase longevity of DPF and now GPF, but there is more to it.
However, my point here is that approved oils are that for a reason. Mpg is just one of the variables and not even most important one. When oil approvals were introduced in Europe in mid 90's there were no mpg requirements, but performance requirements. Reason was to offer consumers guide to correct oils. Also, for oil companies (I worked on this) it was cheap to get approval once oil is developed. BMW and others didn't/don't charge a lot (approximately $5,000) for approval as it is in their interest to offer drivers guidelines to right oil.
That is why I always ask those who claim that these oils without approval are "better," why then those blenders don't send them for approvals.
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      08-25-2021, 10:37 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
So, several things.
BMW recommends LL01 too, not just LL01 FE. Mpg is reason, but not primary one. Extremely high TBN oils don't match well to direct injection engines. Turbos especially like lower SAPS oil. Anywhere where there is a lot of heat, oils with lower sulfated ash and phosphorus are better. Also, bcs. VANOS, and, yes OCI, BMW likes oils that have oxidation in check.
Today it is hard to find oils with extreme TBN outside of truly racing stuff. And even then, TBN is questionable bcs. turbos etc. Motul 300V is not particularly high on TBN. Also, what kind of additives? Problem is that additives for track, racing purposes are different than those for street use.
But think about this, by far highest TBN of available oils have Mobil1 0W40 FS, 5W40 FS and 5W50 FS. If you want super greasy package, doesn't get better than that.
Wasn't the original purpose of low saps (eg LL-04) to keep OPF/DPF happy? How would running a low saps oil help if you don't have cats, OPFs or DPFs? Just genuinely curious.

The other argument for low saps is lower carbon deposits, but I think the jury is still out on that since there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of research done.

Most oils are still full to mid saps aside from LL-04 due to the reason above, no?
So in Europe manufacturers use lower SAPS oils in gasoline engines since 2009. Lower SAPS usually have higher flash point as well as less engine deposits. Original purpose is to increase longevity of DPF and now GPF, but there is more to it.
However, my point here is that approved oils are that for a reason. Mpg is just one of the variables and not even most important one. When oil approvals were introduced in Europe in mid 90's there were no mpg requirements, but performance requirements. Reason was to offer consumers guide to correct oils. Also, for oil companies (I worked on this) it was cheap to get approval once oil is developed. BMW and others didn't/don't charge a lot (approximately $5,000) for approval as it is in their interest to offer drivers guidelines to right oil.
That is why I always ask those who claim that these oils without approval are "better," why then those blenders don't send them for approvals.
I read that the new LL-01 spec has a test for timing chain wear which is why certain oils that formerly had LL-01 certification dropped off like Mobil 1 and Castrol… could that be why we don't have as many options with LL-01 these days?

I can't imagine companies like Mobil wouldn't want to get their stuff certified so it meets Porsche MB and BMW… people say it's cost but I think there has to be more than that. You said 5k for certification but that's really pennies for a multinational oil company. What else could it be?
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      08-26-2021, 01:23 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edycol View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesGames View Post
I can't find the cost on their website. Seeing as there are no formal approvals and just recommendations, I personally will have a hard time choosing this over what is available for cheap and proven. Any idea what the cost is? I assume it would be motul 300v / redline costs at the least. But interested in the data / UOA when available regardless! thanks for sharing.
https://www.advlubrication.com/colle...ive-lubricants

These oils will not meet OEM approvals because the additive content and base stock are formulated with performance in mind rather than being restricted by OEM/API specifications.
Sure, but there are reasons for those restrictions.
Considering my car recommends LL01FE, I'd say the primary reason is fuel economy… lol.

With that said, I'm fully aware of the reasoning behind OEM approvals. However, I've ran Ester/boutique motor oils in BMWs for 100k+ miles with no I'll effects and none of them burn oil or have any abnormal wear based on UOAs.

These types of oils are not for everybody, rather they are for the minority who have special areas of needs in an oil. If you don't know what these needs are, then LL-01 will suit just fine.

The reason why I'm chasing these types of oils with crazy high TBN is because I'm running flex fuel and pushing my turbos to the limit on Cary Jordan's FF multimap.

I need an oil that has extreme resistance to shearing and oxidation while on ethanol as this creates major issues due to fuel dilution and would prematurely wear down your off the shelf motor oil.
So, several things.
BMW recommends LL01 too, not just LL01 FE. Mpg is reason, but not primary one. Extremely high TBN oils don't match well to direct injection engines. Turbos especially like lower SAPS oil. Anywhere where there is a lot of heat, oils with lower sulfated ash and phosphorus are better. Also, bcs. VANOS, and, yes OCI, BMW likes oils that have oxidation in check.
Today it is hard to find oils with extreme TBN outside of truly racing stuff. And even then, TBN is questionable bcs. turbos etc. Motul 300V is not particularly high on TBN. Also, what kind of additives? Problem is that additives for track, racing purposes are different than those for street use.
But think about this, by far highest TBN of available oils have Mobil1 0W40 FS, 5W40 FS and 5W50 FS. If you want super greasy package, doesn't get better than that.
Wasn't the original purpose of low saps (eg LL-04) to keep OPF/DPF happy? How would running a low saps oil help if you don't have cats, OPFs or DPFs? Just genuinely curious.

The other argument for low saps is lower carbon deposits, but I think the jury is still out on that since there doesn't seem to be a whole lot of research done.

Most oils are still full to mid saps aside from LL-04 due to the reason above, no?
So in Europe manufacturers use lower SAPS oils in gasoline engines since 2009. Lower SAPS usually have higher flash point as well as less engine deposits. Original purpose is to increase longevity of DPF and now GPF, but there is more to it.
However, my point here is that approved oils are that for a reason. Mpg is just one of the variables and not even most important one. When oil approvals were introduced in Europe in mid 90's there were no mpg requirements, but performance requirements. Reason was to offer consumers guide to correct oils. Also, for oil companies (I worked on this) it was cheap to get approval once oil is developed. BMW and others didn't/don't charge a lot (approximately $5,000) for approval as it is in their interest to offer drivers guidelines to right oil.
That is why I always ask those who claim that these oils without approval are "better," why then those blenders don't send them for approvals.
I read that the new LL-01 spec has a test for timing chain wear which is why certain oils that formerly had LL-01 certification dropped off like Mobil 1 and Castrol… could that be why we don't have as many options with LL-01 these days?

I can't imagine companies like Mobil wouldn't want to get their stuff certified so it meets Porsche MB and BMW… people say it's cost but I think there has to be more than that. You said 5k for certification but that's really pennies for a multinational oil company. What else could it be?
It is oxidation.
There is timing chain test specific to N20/26 engines. Basically timing guides on those engines and many other that are problematic, don't react very well to high levels of Zinc. New API SP approval has limit of 800ppm of Zinc bcs. that reason.
But, oxidation is huge thing. BMW already had most stringent oxidation requirements in industry. In 2018 they bumped from really tough to ridiculous. That eliminated pretty much all oils containing esters (any amount) or those with higher viscosity improvers. No 0W30 or 0W40 oils that have HTHS above 3.5 can meet this oxidation requirements. But, in older engines (N55 etc.) it is irrelevant. In newer engines (B generation) I would stick to LL01 or LL04, but in older, anything MB229.5 or MB229.51/52 (which is comprehensively more stringent than LL01, or MB229.51/52 than LL04) will cut it.
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      09-25-2021, 12:28 PM   #213
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Just switched from Castrol Edge 0W-40 to Motul Xcess Gen 2 5W-40 - immediate impressions are smoother startup sequence and idle. I switched cause my S55 sounded noisier and lopey-er since running Edge 0W-40. It’s still by no means a quiet motor, but the valve train seems a bit quieter and smoother now. Will report back on further impressions as I drive thru the next 5k OCI.
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      09-25-2021, 07:44 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RugbyBro View Post
Just switched from Castrol Edge 0W-40 to Motul Xcess Gen 2 5W-40 - immediate impressions are smoother startup sequence and idle. I switched cause my S55 sounded noisier and lopey-er since running Edge 0W-40. It's still by no means a quiet motor, but the valve train seems a bit quieter and smoother now. Will report back on further impressions as I drive thru the next 5k OCI.
Additives. Some additives will not suppress noise that much. Mobil1is the worst, but returns excellent UOA.
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      09-28-2021, 12:48 PM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RugbyBro View Post
Just switched from Castrol Edge 0W-40 to Motul Xcess Gen 2 5W-40 - immediate impressions are smoother startup sequence and idle. I switched cause my S55 sounded noisier and lopey-er since running Edge 0W-40. It’s still by no means a quiet motor, but the valve train seems a bit quieter and smoother now. Will report back on further impressions as I drive thru the next 5k OCI.
Can't say I felt the same way - I've used OE BMW 5w30 / 0w30, Castrol 0w30 / 0w40, and now Ravenol 0w40 and all 3 brands I've noticed no difference. I do have some Motul 5w40 Gen 2 as well which I will use possibly on the next run, will see how that goes and report back if I notice anything.
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      09-30-2021, 05:39 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RugbyBro View Post
Just switched from Castrol Edge 0W-40 to Motul Xcess Gen 2 5W-40 - immediate impressions are smoother startup sequence and idle. I switched cause my S55 sounded noisier and lopey-er since running Edge 0W-40. It’s still by no means a quiet motor, but the valve train seems a bit quieter and smoother now. Will report back on further impressions as I drive thru the next 5k OCI.
I just switched my S55/M3 and my N55/335i to Motul 5W40 too and I'll be sampling both after 5,000 miles.
FWIW.... my N55 loved Molygen 5W40...as reported from its latest Blackstone report.
The engine has had 13 oil changes with LM 5W40 with 67,000 miles of daily driving.
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      10-06-2021, 09:40 AM   #217
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I just use 0W40 (MY 2016 ) and replace it whenever the car tells me (10K miles or 12 months). Obviously this doesn't apply if someone tracking their car but for everyone else I just think there is no need to stray away from that and waste time and money on shorter oil change intervals.

BMW already did their homework and I just follow what's in the book. I do the same on all my other vehicles nowadays, I just follow whatever the booklet says. Doing 5K oil change on syntetic oil is just unnecessary and not good for the environment or your pocket. Also I've been there researching countless days on what's the best oil. Nowadays modern engines will last fine just by following the car's maintenance reminders, it's the rest of the car will fall apart first before the engine gives up because of oil related issue. There are dozens of studies where they've run vehicles on a stand for hundreds of thousands of miles and finding minimal wear and tear after a teardown.
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      10-06-2021, 09:06 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by XsltAnalyst View Post
I just use 0W40 (MY 2016 ) and replace it whenever the car tells me (10K miles or 12 months). Obviously this doesn't apply if someone tracking their car but for everyone else I just think there is no need to stray away from that and waste time and money on shorter oil change intervals.

BMW already did their homework and I just follow what's in the book. I do the same on all my other vehicles nowadays, I just follow whatever the booklet says. Doing 5K oil change on syntetic oil is just unnecessary and not good for the environment or your pocket. Also I've been there researching countless days on what's the best oil. Nowadays modern engines will last fine just by following the car's maintenance reminders, it's the rest of the car will fall apart first before the engine gives up because of oil related issue. There are dozens of studies where they've run vehicles on a stand for hundreds of thousands of miles and finding minimal wear and tear after a teardown.
Spoken like, not a car guy
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      10-06-2021, 11:48 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XsltAnalyst View Post
I just use 0W40 (MY 2016 ) and replace it whenever the car tells me (10K miles or 12 months). Obviously this doesn't apply if someone tracking their car but for everyone else I just think there is no need to stray away from that and waste time and money on shorter oil change intervals.

BMW already did their homework and I just follow what's in the book. I do the same on all my other vehicles nowadays, I just follow whatever the booklet says. Doing 5K oil change on syntetic oil is just unnecessary and not good for the environment or your pocket. Also I've been there researching countless days on what's the best oil. Nowadays modern engines will last fine just by following the car's maintenance reminders, it's the rest of the car will fall apart first before the engine gives up because of oil related issue. There are dozens of studies where they've run vehicles on a stand for hundreds of thousands of miles and finding minimal wear and tear after a teardown.
Lots of valid points, but driving conditions matter too.

If you are stock, doing 70% highway miles, and your engine gets to operating temperature on every drive, then yes, I think 10k makes sense.

However if you are tuned, running on corn, doing tons of short trips and sitting in stop and go traffic all day, that will kill an oil rather quickly.

Most prudent thing to do would be an oil analysis at 5k. Most likely, they'll tell you you can go an extra 2,500 miles with no issues
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