07-19-2017, 01:33 PM | #1 |
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ESS Silicon Charge Pipe Install - DIY
About three weeks ago going down the 101 in Woodland Hills, the temp showed 108F. Going slowly in traffic, I downshifted and changed lanes. When I went to press the gas moderately, I heard/felt a pop, and the car just didn't go like normal. Then I got a drivetrain malfunction - continue driving possible. Whenever I hit the gas, there was just this whoosh of air you could hear in the cabin coming from under the hood. So, I knew right away what that was.
I hadn't been truly impressed with any of the charge pipe options out there until I saw the ESS: http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1397769 I ordered these up and installed the other night. Fairly straight forward, with a couple small wrinkles as I will describe. Thanks to BMS for posting their charge pipe install guide online. It makes things a lot easier, as the ESS comes with parts only - no install guide. http://burgertuning.com/instructions...pe_Install.pdf Here's the ESS Kit: Start by removing the engine cover and the upper sills, so you can access all of the bolts to remove the brace. Remove the passenger side airbox. First remove the MAF sensor and carefully get it out of the way. I put a ziplock over it. NOTE: While I was doing this, I took the opportunity to remove the charcoal filter (long overdue), and so I also removed the driver side box and charcoal filter. Next, remove the turbo inlet coupler, and then the intake pipe (note the bolt holding the intake pipe). After these are out of the way, you can access the charge pipe bolts. Remove the old charge pipes and then you are ready to begin the new install. (Don't forget to remove the rubber o-rings and install into new inlet couplers) Here are the old and new side-byside: So, when it came time to begin the install, I went to bolt the turbo inlet coupler from the new CP's, and WHAAAAAAA???? No bolts in the kit. (Refer back to first photo) The kit had everything perfectly sealed up in there, but no bolts. So... it's 7:40PM at this point... I just started the job around 6:30... I'm pissed - I want to finish this up! Race to the hardware store that closes at 8 and long story short, I find the bolts. Coincidentally, it is a size M6... Starting with the rear pipe, my plan was to install the coupler to the pipe, and then the coupler to the turbo. The problem with that is that the pipe is too thick to allow this. The bolt won't line up straight with the turbo flange. So I had to loosen the clamp and pull the pipe up a bit. For the front pipe, I just installed the inlet coupler first, and then the pipe. This was a much better way IMO. New pipes on: These pipes are thicker than stock, so it makes the install a slight bit more challenging, but overall it is not too bad. They look great and I think are my favorite CP option out there. But ESS: Don't forget the fucking bolts next time!!! Car runs like a dream. Getting the charcoals out is a definite boost to airflow too. .
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2016 AY M4 : SB Full Leather : HRE P104 20" x 9.5" Front / 11.5" Rear : Pirelli PZero Nero GT 255/30/20 Front / 305/25/20 Rear : CCBs : KW v3's : Active Autowerke Full Exhaust & DPs : ESS Silicon Charge Pipes : VF HEX Stage 2 : VF TCU : Status Gruppe Rear Diffuser : M-Perf Side Blades : M-Perf Front Lip : Reus Audio System : Painted Side Reflectors : Black Grill Surrounds : Black Side Markers
Last edited by M4RAUDR; 07-21-2017 at 04:31 PM.. |
07-19-2017, 04:13 PM | #2 |
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I had the same problem with the missing M6 bolts
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07-19-2017, 07:04 PM | #4 |
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07-20-2017, 03:13 PM | #7 |
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Congrats OP and thank you for the DIY
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04-13-2018, 07:51 PM | #9 |
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if I remember right, it's just a matching silicone coupling for the boost pipe on the other side. I didn't use it.
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04-17-2018, 08:31 AM | #11 |
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I have them on my 2015 M4, easy install, look purposeful, well thought out design, especially the new and longer engine cover stud to raise the right rear of the cover to give it the clearance needed to fit over the bigger silicone hoses. Well done!
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04-17-2018, 12:36 PM | #12 | |
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The silicone (5 layer) doesn't swell much, if at all during dyno sessions. Also a much easier install than aluminum with little to no variances for a perfect fit.
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04-25-2018, 07:42 AM | #13 |
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Would you recommend this install for a non-modded F82? I have a 2015 and have been trying to figure out if I really need to change charge pipes, when do the stock ones usually blow?
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04-25-2018, 09:29 AM | #14 | |
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Stock tune, you're perfectly fine. |
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04-25-2018, 09:36 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
.
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2016 AY M4 : SB Full Leather : HRE P104 20" x 9.5" Front / 11.5" Rear : Pirelli PZero Nero GT 255/30/20 Front / 305/25/20 Rear : CCBs : KW v3's : Active Autowerke Full Exhaust & DPs : ESS Silicon Charge Pipes : VF HEX Stage 2 : VF TCU : Status Gruppe Rear Diffuser : M-Perf Side Blades : M-Perf Front Lip : Reus Audio System : Painted Side Reflectors : Black Grill Surrounds : Black Side Markers
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04-25-2018, 11:05 AM | #16 | |
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If you have no plans to mod, let the dealer/warranty handle it. Otherwise, no harm in being extra careful.
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04-25-2018, 11:30 AM | #17 |
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04-25-2018, 11:43 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
S55 Intake Charge Pipe Failure http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1113212
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05-20-2018, 01:19 AM | #21 | |
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Have fun with the install. .
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2016 AY M4 : SB Full Leather : HRE P104 20" x 9.5" Front / 11.5" Rear : Pirelli PZero Nero GT 255/30/20 Front / 305/25/20 Rear : CCBs : KW v3's : Active Autowerke Full Exhaust & DPs : ESS Silicon Charge Pipes : VF HEX Stage 2 : VF TCU : Status Gruppe Rear Diffuser : M-Perf Side Blades : M-Perf Front Lip : Reus Audio System : Painted Side Reflectors : Black Grill Surrounds : Black Side Markers
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