Tracked M4/Big Break Kit?

[1zhp]

Hello,

I have a 2016 M4, tracked it a few weeks ago and my rotors glazed. I just had them replaced with OEM rotors. I'll have to check what pads are on them. Anyway, kinda new to tracking BMW's. How do I know if I have a BBK? Did bmw make an OEM BBK?

Also, is it pretty safe to track the oem m4 rotors? I'd rather not glaze them again. What is the best way to bed them in and also prevent glazing/cracking (other than simply not tracking)?

Thanks!

[ABenLauda]

If the dealership replaced them, it's surely OEM rotors and pads. OEM isn't BBK. OEM pads are shit for tracking and they leave uneven deposits on the rotors. Most dealerships will see this and say you warped your rotors and need replacement.

For tracking, put some track pads on, have fresh Castrol SRF and OEM rotors should hold up fine. Braking on track should take care of the bedding too.

[jmg]

BBK is a relative term. The M3/4 brakes are fairly decent upgrades from the 3 series and it's safe to track with OEM rotors. Are you sure they were glazed? What happened?

OEM pads, however, will not handle heavy track use without a lot of cool down and temperature maintenance. They will fade after just a session if you are overdriving the car. I wouldn't doubt that you experienced a lot of fade that day.

Before you dump a lot of money on a BBK, just get some high temp brake fluid like Motul 660 or Castrol SRF and a set of track pads. Which track pad to get is a whole other discussion, but I've been using PFC 08 with great results. Little to no fade, plenty of stopping power, safe for street driving cold, but very noisy. Works will with my setup of 200tw DOT tires (RE71R). If you go slicks you might want something a little more aggressive. Any sticky DOT street tire though, it's perfect.

Another thing to think about is if you are leaving DSC on. This tends to heat up the brakes more since the DSC is using individual wheel braking to correct stability.

[SYT_Shadow]

Pfc08 is a good pad option for track use

BMW did not make an oem bbk.

I suggest you start with pads and take it from there. The oem brake system is pretty decent, but if you have lots of track experience you are likely to need a bbk. I use the Alcon-Bimmerworld kit and it's fantastic, but very track oriented

You will also want to install camber plates

[McLaren720s]

Is PFC08 okay for street use or will they eat the rotors? I assume they will be noisy as well

Also, where are they available to buy?

[Suds]

I’ve been driving PFC08’s on the street and track, but I’ve gotten 2500+ track miles on a couple of sets. They are on my 2019 M4, just don’t look people in the eyes when your slowing to a stop, because they squeal worse than a dump truck.

Your rotors will will split and crack if you are driving hard before they get thin.

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Is PFC08 okay for street use or will they eat the rotors? I assume they will be noisy as well

Also, where are they available to buy?

[1zhp]

Originally Posted by jmg

BBK is a relative term. The M3/4 brakes are fairly decent upgrades from the 3 series and it's safe to track with OEM rotors. Are you sure they were glazed? What happened?

OEM pads, however, will not handle heavy track use without a lot of cool down and temperature maintenance. They will fade after just a session if you are overdriving the car. I wouldn't doubt that you experienced a lot of fade that day.

Before you dump a lot of money on a BBK, just get some high temp brake fluid like Motul 660 or Castrol SRF and a set of track pads. Which track pad to get is a whole other discussion, but I've been using PFC 08 with great results. Little to no fade, plenty of stopping power, safe for street driving cold, but very noisy. Works will with my setup of 200tw DOT tires (RE71R). If you go slicks you might want something a little more aggressive. Any sticky DOT street tire though, it's perfect.

Another thing to think about is if you are leaving DSC on. This tends to heat up the brakes more since the DSC is using individual wheel braking to correct stability.

So i've tracked before, my dad is into it and has a weissach gt3rs which all of my track days were on. It was my first time tracking my M4, and apparently tall 4 corners glazed. I will admit I did zero cooldown laps - going at about 90% then immediately hitting the paddock and putting it in park. Big mistake. It was also on full OEM setup. Next time i'll just get some track-focused pads. My main concern is that I keep my rotors in good shape. I paid $3,100 for rotors, pads (not oem but not necessarily track-focused), motul fluid, and an oil change. I definitely cannot afford that every time I go out lol.

[1zhp]

Originally Posted by ABenChod

If the dealership replaced them, it's surely OEM rotors and pads. OEM isn't BBK. OEM pads are shit for tracking and they leave uneven deposits on the rotors. Most dealerships will see this and say you warped your rotors and need replacement.

For tracking, put some track pads on, have fresh Castrol SRF and OEM rotors should hold up fine. Braking on track should take care of the bedding too.

Good to know, thanks. Brake fluid is motul and pads are not oem but not track focused.My main concern is keeping my rotors in good shape. Next time i'll go slotted. Is there a way to maintain them while at the track? I.e., clean out the drill holes? Other than doing cooldown laps of course.

[1zhp]

Originally Posted by jmg

BBK is a relative term. The M3/4 brakes are fairly decent upgrades from the 3 series and it's safe to track with OEM rotors. Are you sure they were glazed? What happened?

OEM pads, however, will not handle heavy track use without a lot of cool down and temperature maintenance. They will fade after just a session if you are overdriving the car. I wouldn't doubt that you experienced a lot of fade that day.

Before you dump a lot of money on a BBK, just get some high temp brake fluid like Motul 660 or Castrol SRF and a set of track pads. Which track pad to get is a whole other discussion, but I've been using PFC 08 with great results. Little to no fade, plenty of stopping power, safe for street driving cold, but very noisy. Works will with my setup of 200tw DOT tires (RE71R). If you go slicks you might want something a little more aggressive. Any sticky DOT street tire though, it's perfect.

Another thing to think about is if you are leaving DSC on. This tends to heat up the brakes more since the DSC is using individual wheel braking to correct stability.

I know there are a few threads about driver settings - what settings would you recommend? I have the dct transmission. I went full sport mode, shift setting #2 (out of 3) and DSC on. Im fairly experienced, but want to stay out of the sand and gravel. Thanks!

[Jockey]

DSC is going to eat your brakes alive since it uses a lot of brake input to keep the car planted. MDM is less so but still going to be using the brakes to keep the car pointed in the right direction.


You don't need slotted rotors. The stock rotors are fine but you need proper track pads.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by 1zhp

I know there are a few threads about driver settings - what settings would you recommend? I have the dct transmission. I went full sport mode, shift setting #2 (out of 3) and DSC on. Im fairly experienced, but want to stay out of the sand and gravel. Thanks!

I started in MDM mode but soon went full DSC off under the logic of not relying on the nannies to save me, instead learning the limits by finding those limits in a safe environment. I go back to MDM when it's my first time on a new track or if the conditions are bad.

As far as the other settings I use sport for drivetrain for smoother power delivery, comfort steering which feels the most natural, sport plus for the suspension, 2 bars on the DCT for smoother shifting, but I leave it in manual.

[ABenLauda]

Originally Posted by 1zhp

Good to know, thanks. Brake fluid is motul and pads are not oem but not track focused.My main concern is keeping my rotors in good shape. Next time i'll go slotted. Is there a way to maintain them while at the track? I.e., clean out the drill holes? Other than doing cooldown laps of course.

SRF is better than Motul. Track pads are a must! Don't brake conservatively on track thinking you'll prolong rotor life (ruins the fun and you'll be slower). Cool down the brakes before diving into the pits. Cleaning out the clogged holes will help. Rotors are a consumable anyways (after tires and pads).

[maddmatth]

Originally Posted by 1zhp

I will admit I did zero cooldown laps - going at about 90% then immediately hitting the paddock and putting it in park. Big mistake

Yep.

Also try to roll it to a stop after the session without using brakes. I slowly roll it into the pit, put it into neutral by flicking the DCT stick left, and when it stops or comes close to a stop I turn off the engine to put it in park.

If you use the brakes to stop it while they're hot, you can imprint the rotors which causes vibration. Think I made this mistake on my first trackday and had to get the front rotors machined to get rid of it.
I knew not to, but out of habit I used the brakes once or twice

Obviously, adjust the technique as appropriate for a manual

I know there are a few threads about driver settings - what settings would you recommend? I have the dct transmission. I went full sport mode, shift setting #2 (out of 3) and DSC on. Im fairly experienced, but want to stay out of the sand and gravel. Thanks!

That'll come down to preference. No throttle mode is really any faster than the other, it's just a different mapping curve. Use the one that you feel gives you best modulation.

Personally I use this
Throttle: Sport
Suspension: Sport+ (drop to Sport for a bumpy track. eg I hear Sport is best for the Nordschleife, if you ever end up there)
Steering: Sport (totally preference, it's just steering weight)
DCT: S3 (drop to S2 if you find it wants to throw you into a slide on gear changes, or lift throttle a tad when up-shifting mid corner)
DSC: MDM

I use MDM on track as it's required for my track insurance. Euro MDM as I'm in New Zealand.
It's not totally fool-proof. I entered a corner too fast, went a bit sideways so my left wheels went into the dirt, and it threw me into a 180 spin across the track and into the dirt on the opposite side at about 100kph/60mph... didn't break anything though

[icegrill]

Originally Posted by 1zhp

So i've tracked before, my dad is into it and has a weissach gt3rs which all of my track days were on. It was my first time tracking my M4, and apparently tall 4 corners glazed. I will admit I did zero cooldown laps - going at about 90% then immediately hitting the paddock and putting it in park. Big mistake. It was also on full OEM setup. Next time i'll just get some track-focused pads. My main concern is that I keep my rotors in good shape. I paid $3,100 for rotors, pads (not oem but not necessarily track-focused), motul fluid, and an oil change. I definitely cannot afford that every time I go out lol.

Have your dad pay for a new brake set up.

[horsepower_and_hounds]

Don't most switch to either a aftermarket oversized kit or the M2C set up that it similar to the F80/82 CCB size?