Anti-dazzle and VLD in 2018 cars?

[fernisatree]

Originally Posted by 88tuning.id

isnt yours also have LCI headlights? what's the point of changing into European version?

i believe there's a setting in FLE module (LCI cars) that stated US/ECE setting for the headlights. i need to check further though.


T

So my version of the headlights do not allow the full operation for GFHB. There is bleed through in portions that should be dark. I am blinding people if i keep the GFHB activated with US spec headlights. I live in Germany and would like to have the correctly working GFHB with my headlights. I have the ability to buy a set of headlights that are a swap and just sell mine to someone in the states that want to upgrade their headlights. This whole thread details the saga of figuring out which headlights will work or not. I think lemetier was on theverge of figuring this out. I tried to message him but his inbox is full.

[88tuning.id]

Originally Posted by fernisatree

So my version of the headlights do not allow the full operation for GFHB. There is bleed through in portions that should be dark. I am blinding people if i keep the GFHB activated with US spec headlights. I live in Germany and would like to have the correctly working GFHB with my headlights. I have the ability to buy a set of headlights that are a swap and just sell mine to someone in the states that want to upgrade their headlights. This whole thread details the saga of figuring out which headlights will work or not. I think lemetier was on theverge of figuring this out. I tried to message him but his inbox is full.

I see. Part number 63118738705 and 63118738706 are also for Adaptive LED, right?


So if your car optioned with Adaptive LED too, the wiring must be plug and play no worries about that.

I think the final step to do on esys is changing the typleschlussel to M3 euro version and VO code both the FLE module.

T

[fernisatree]

Originally Posted by 88tuning.id

I see. Part number 63118738705 and 63118738706 are also for Adaptive LED, right?


So if your car optioned with Adaptive LED too, the wiring must be plug and play no worries about that.

I think the final step to do on esys is changing the typleschlussel to M3 euro version and VO code both the FLE module.

T

Correct those are EU spec adaptive LCI 2 headlight part numbers,63118738707 and 63118738708 are RHD version, and 63118738709 and 63118738710 are DOT NA spec. I hope it is just as simple as swapping but earlier in the thread there are talks of Geo fencing, and FUSI locks which i would believe impossible to work around. I guess the only way to find out is to do it. This will have to wait a couple weeks till i am back in Germany.

[88tuning.id]

Originally Posted by fernisatree

Correct those are EU spec adaptive LCI 2 headlight part numbers,63118738707 and 63118738708 are RHD version, and 63118738709 and 63118738710 are DOT NA spec. I hope it is just as simple as swapping but earlier in the thread there are talks of Geo fencing, and FUSI locks which i would believe impossible to work around. I guess the only way to find out is to do it. This will have to wait a couple weeks till i am back in Germany.

Couldnt agree more, please let us know the update. Interested as well.


T

[fernisatree]

So i got great results with the headlight swap. To everyone reading this that has US spec lights and has this coded, please stop now. You are blinding your fellow drivers on the road. I thought it was working on my US spec lights when I had them programmed and it is a night and day difference with the EU spec lights. I have a breakdown of what headlights you need and pictures of the process i will make a better post when I get into work tomorrow. Also a note of caution I live in Europe with a US spec car so my connected drive does not work. I am curious once I get stateside if this will still work, i hope it does!

[fernisatree]

Having both sets of lights on hand you can see the differences in the circuitry. Also the EU spec does not have that knob on the adjustment mechanism. I guess this is the lock that was previously discussed about. The first picture is the drivers side lower outer circuit board for the EU spec lights. the second picture is the drivers side lower outer circuit board for the US spec lights. You can see the EU spec has more circuits on the circuit board. The next two pictures are the EU spec first and US spec second for the right hand side. These also have a slight difference but not as noticeable as the left hand side. I have also included in the pictures the part number of the headlights that you will need for EU spec left hand drive headlights. I got these remote coded and everything worked fine. Now a word of caution i live in Germany with a US spec car so my connected drive does not work. I can not assure you they will not be geo-fenced with connected drive active in the states. Just to remphasize these headlights are actual glare free and you can see the tunnel clearly unlike the US spec. The whole time driving into work this morning i did not get one flash and you can clearly see the light tunnel avoiding the other cars. Also another thing to note some states require inspections and will fail you for not having amber running lights. I know this to be true in Maryland.

TLDR: The circuits are different on the outer lower boards inside the headlight, and these are the part numbers for EU spec headlights.

[White340]

My 2018 US spec ZCP looks just like your EU circuitry!

Any good post that discusses how to code this or are there just bits and pieces of information spread out?

[fernisatree]

Originally Posted by White340

My 2018 US spec ZCP looks just like your EU circuitry!

Any good post that discusses how to code this or are there just bits and pieces of information spread out?

There is a cheat sheet floating around in one of these posts. Honestly i would find one of the remote coders to help you out. I would recommend Alex @ alpinemotorsports But you must also know that there is still a lockout installed on the US spec lights. I do not know how to remove those.

[White340]

Originally Posted by fernisatree

There is a cheat sheet floating around in one of these posts. Honestly i would find one of the remote coders to help you out. I would recommend Alex @ alpinemotorsports But you must also know that there is still a lockout installed on the US spec lights. I do not know how to remove those.

Where is the knob in your picture? I will see if mine has it too.

Also since I don't have the car In front of me, could you tell me whether the pet number is at the top of the headlight or does it need to be removed to see it?

Thanks man!

[fernisatree]

Originally Posted by White340

Where is the knob in your picture? I will see if mine has it too.

Also since I don't have the car In front of me, could you tell me whether the pet number is at the top of the headlight or does it need to be removed to see it?

Thanks man!

If you open the hood you will see the part number on top and the knob is right next to it. It is white plastic, if you look at my pictures you can see there is no knob there but an hex head adjustment screw.

[White340]

Originally Posted by fernisatree

If you open the hood you will see the part number on top and the knob is right next to it. It is white plastic, if you look at my pictures you can see there is no knob there but an hex head adjustment screw.

Ok thanks I will check on Saturday

[PaulM]

From what I can see on my headlights, it's the white cap that covers the hex socket on the adjustment knob.
lemetier mentioned that there's a special tool that's required to remove the caps (some form of tamperproof mechanism). Apparently Canadian dealers should theoretically have access to the tool and be able to code the GFHB function as a retrofit package (my headlight seem to have the same circuitry as the European ones in the pictures above). The problem is that my local dealer doesn't seem to know about it, and they don't appear to be very interested in looking into it it seems.

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by fernisatree

Having both sets of lights on hand you can see the differences in the circuitry. Also the EU spec does not have that knob on the adjustment mechanism. I guess this is the lock that was previously discussed about. The first picture is the drivers side lower outer circuit board for the EU spec lights. the second picture is the drivers side lower outer circuit board for the US spec lights. You can see the EU spec has more circuits on the circuit board. The next two pictures are the EU spec first and US spec second for the right hand side. These also have a slight difference but not as noticeable as the left hand side. I have also included in the pictures the part number of the headlights that you will need for EU spec left hand drive headlights. I got these remote coded and everything worked fine. Now a word of caution i live in Germany with a US spec car so my connected drive does not work. I can not assure you they will not be geo-fenced with connected drive active in the states. Just to remphasize these headlights are actual glare free and you can see the tunnel clearly unlike the US spec. The whole time driving into work this morning i did not get one flash and you can clearly see the light tunnel avoiding the other cars. Also another thing to note some states require inspections and will fail you for not having amber running lights. I know this to be true in Maryland.

TLDR: The circuits are different on the outer lower boards inside the headlight, and these are the part numbers for EU spec headlights.

This is good news! Thank you for posting and giving us USDM owners a glimmer of hope. I have questions!

- How did you find the correct part number for these lights? I looked on RealOEM and didn’t find the numbers shown on your headlight stickers.

- Was it a simple matter to swap over the electronics modules, or did you have to purchase new ones?

- You’re stating that the new lights don’t have amber markers, correct?

- Where did you purchase the lights, and can you give us a ballpark cost?

- How hard was the swap? It looks like the bumper cover needs to come off if I’m reading TIS correctly.

[fernisatree]

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

This is good news! Thank you for posting and giving us USDM owners a glimmer of hope. I have questions!

- How did you find the correct part number for these lights? I looked on RealOEM and didn’t find the numbers shown on your headlight stickers.

- Was it a simple matter to swap over the electronics modules, or did you have to purchase new ones?

- You’re stating that the new lights don’t have amber markers, correct?

- Where did you purchase the lights, and can you give us a ballpark cost?

- How hard was the swap? It looks like the bumper cover needs to come off if I’m reading TIS correctly.

- I searched hours, if not days for this information. Between surfing ebay.de and the local German classifieds i finally found a picture with these part numbers and just kept searching. I also have the updated RHD part numbers as well. All the part numbers are in sequential order starting with the EU parts then UK then US.

- The headlights i purchased came with all the modules, I have been told you could use your US spec modules on these. But i was also told these headlights have glare free operation. Most headlights I have seen for sale come with all the modules installed.

- Correct the new modules do not have the amber side markers. This could be a problem when you PCS back to the states. I know I'm going to have problems registering in Maryland but I'll cross that bridge when i get there. Florida you should have no problems. Other states no idea.

- I purchased the lights from a guy that bought a huge lot. I think he has one brand new set left. I had to drive three hours one way to get them. I have seen plenty of sets on the local classifieds here in Germany the prices range from 2000-3000 euro for a complete set with all the modules. I know he has a lot of RHD drive sets still available.

- The swap was easy the bumper comes off relatively easy i used a DIY on here. The hard part was making the gaps line up with the body. Also you will have to get these coded to work. I worked with Alex at alpinemotorsports to get the coding done.

If you ever make a trip up here to Ramstein area or go to the ring send me a PM I can point you in the right direction if you want a set.

[noone]

Originally Posted by PaulM

From what I can see on my headlights, it's the white cap that covers the hex socket on the adjustment knob.
lemetier mentioned that there's a special tool that's required to remove the caps (some form of tamperproof mechanism). Apparently Canadian dealers should theoretically have access to the tool and be able to code the GFHB function as a retrofit package (my headlight seem to have the same circuitry as the European ones in the pictures above). The problem is that my local dealer doesn't seem to know about it, and they don't appear to be very interested in looking into it it seems.

Any recent developments on this? Has anyone pursued trying to remove these white caps by popping them off? What exactly is the cap preventing?

[PaulM]

After lots of fruitless searching on the web for that special tool from BMW and trying to have it retrofitted by my dealership (apparently they legally can't retrofit Canadian cars that were produced before a certain date even though the regulations changed before car production), I decided to see if I can remove those things on my own.

Turns out they are just regular dumb caps, easily taken off with a set of thin tweezers. I tried to look around the headlight to see if there are other pins or lock-looking pieces, but I couldn't see any. Maybe lemetier or Almaretto have more info on where the physical locks are located on the headlights?

[stealth70mde]

Originally Posted by PaulM

After lots of fruitless searching on the web for that special tool from BMW and trying to have it retrofitted by my dealership (apparently they legally can't retrofit Canadian cars that were produced before a certain date even though the regulations changed before car production), I decided to see if I can remove those things on my own.

Turns out they are just regular dumb caps, easily taken off with a set of thin tweezers. I tried to look around the headlight to see if there are other pins or lock-looking pieces, but I couldn't see any. Maybe lemetier or Almaretto have more info on where the physical locks are located on the headlights?

The plugs should only be for the horizontal adjustment as described here:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ght/1VndFShsVm

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ght/1VndDVWaSD

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ght/1VndRDFuly

Yours look different than in the schematics...

[PaulM]

Thank you for those schematics.
You're right, my headlights don't seem to have that tamper-proof plug.
What I'm wondering is if those plugs have any impact on the anti-glare functionality. It would seem that the main function is to prevent people from adjusting the headlight direction as it only prevents you from getting a hex tool to turn the d'ajustement screw.

On the BMW Canada website there's a page that mentions anti-glare retrofit (only for 5 series) with an estimated work duration of 60 min. That would mean that if there is anything to be modified physically on the headlights, it must be easily accessible. More likely that it's just a software retrofit (as long as the headlights have the correct number of LEDs).

Paul

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by PaulM

After lots of fruitless searching on the web for that special tool from BMW and trying to have it retrofitted by my dealership (apparently they legally can't retrofit Canadian cars that were produced before a certain date even though the regulations changed before car production), I decided to see if I can remove those things on my own.

Turns out they are just regular dumb caps, easily taken off with a set of thin tweezers. I tried to look around the headlight to see if there are other pins or lock-looking pieces, but I couldn't see any. Maybe lemetier or Almaretto have more info on where the physical locks are located on the headlights?

Have you tried coding the VLD and AGHB? Because they seem to be working fine on my 2019 M4cs after I coded them without having to do any physical changes.

[noone]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Have you tried coding the VLD and AGHB? Because they seem to be working fine on my 2019 M4cs after I coded them without having to do any physical changes.

Would you mind posting exactly what you changed? I would like to try it out on my 2018 M3 which I assume has the same lights as your 2019 M4. Thx!

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by noone

Would you mind posting exactly what you changed? I would like to try it out on my 2018 M3 which I assume has the same lights as your 2019 M4. Thx!

It might not be the case. Cars in the US seem to have different headlight hardware with missing LED arrays and different circuitry.

[noone]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

It might not be the case. Cars in the US seem to have different headlight hardware with missing LED arrays and different circuitry.

Would you mind posting pics of your headlight undersides with the part numbers stickers?