10-07-2017, 08:08 PM | #221 | |
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10-07-2017, 08:31 PM | #222 |
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@bms5 , I bought them from my local electronic parts store. You can buy them online from many places. https://www.andersonpower.com/us/
Or you can use any other quick connect w the proper amperage. I think I used AWG4. |
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11-20-2017, 06:05 PM | #223 |
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I happen to have a Mean Well RSP-2000-24 21-28V, 68A continuous power supply to drive my RC helicopter battery charger. It's always worked flawlessly for that purpose.
To repurpose it for coding and programming my e92 M3 I'd obviously need to step the voltage down by 12V. Any recommendations for a suitable DC/DC converter? I'm not familiar with where to source such a thing, and for ones with continuous output ratings of 45+ Amps, my initial searching is only turning up options that cost hundreds of dollars. For that I could just buy an RSP-2000-12, which has a 90A rating, and can be adjusted up to 14V. Last edited by ibrandt; 11-20-2017 at 06:14 PM.. Reason: Corrected current values for 115VAC in. |
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04-13-2018, 05:02 AM | #224 |
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I have a original PSU from BMW factory. It is a programmable DEUTRONIC DBL 430 with supports 70amps.
Because its programmable i can adjust the charging voltage and so on. What is the right value, for flashing the vehicle ? Next week my car will be flashed remotly, and the guy said a PSU is not needed, but i want to lad the car to prevent failures during the flashing process. So my question is: 1. do I have to fasten the seatbelt while flashing (when i coded the car i had to fasten the seatbelt to prevent the car from going to sleep after 20min) 2. what is the right voltage value for the PSU to charge the Lithium battery in my M4 Thank you guys |
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04-14-2018, 05:31 AM | #225 | |
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2. Any voltage > 13V, 13.6 is what I choose based on the ISTA doc and my own notes which you can find in this thread 3. Adjust and go in maintenance mode while flashing, or whatever it's called to operate your "charger" in PSU mode |
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04-16-2018, 02:56 AM | #226 |
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Thank you very much. Now i am save
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07-18-2018, 10:32 PM | #227 |
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I made mine like yours. So, how to connect this to my car?
Such a dumb question but.....
How to connect this PSU to the car? Directly connect Positive(+) to positive(+) on battery and negative(-) to negative(-) on battery? One more thing. Isn't this make over charge the battery if I connect long time? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SO...mjqib19ZdP-hFR Last edited by hanadul; 07-20-2018 at 11:00 AM.. Reason: upload picture |
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07-20-2018, 11:20 AM | #228 |
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Explanation of my project following TERAHERTZ!
First of all, Thanks you for your information TERAHERTZ!
Please follow TERAHERTZ's info and read below for little more tip. Here's my explanation about my project following TERAHERTZ's info. It will cost $55-60 if you buy Jump cable and 2 PSUs only. It will cost $75-80 if you buy all of below except soldering iron & tools with a lot of left over. It will take about 2-5 hours to complete this project depending on your skill (I took 4 hours ). 1. 2 of HP PSUs ($35-45 on Ebay) 2. 6 gauge 25ft long Battery Jump Cable ($13-16 on Amazon, it can handle 101 Amp, 4.11mm. 4 Awg is too thick to solder & pay a lot more when you buy matched quick connectors) 3. 5-10 Arduino Jumper Wires ($5 for 100 pcs on Amazon, female to female. Cut 3 wires into 1/2 and make it 10 total) 4. 2 Trailer Quick Connectors (2 of 6 Agw = $6-8, 2 of 4 Agw = $15-20 on Amazon) 5. 2 1k Potentiometers (10 for $5, 50 for $10 on Amazon) 6. Some Shrink tubes (300 for $5-8 on Amazon or electrical tape) 7. Soldering Iron with accessory (if you don't have it, ......I don't know) 8. Some small tools (small screw drivers, pin set, utility knife, wire cutter...) Soldering is most difficult work for me. Put soldering paste/flux on wires and contacts on PSUs so make it easy to soak solders. Put shrink tubes on the wire before soldering. Spend 5 minutes and watch Youtube "how to solder wires" https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E-...ms9rA8vnHOUwdH Last edited by hanadul; 07-20-2018 at 11:28 AM.. Reason: upload picture |
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07-24-2018, 10:06 PM | #229 |
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Figured I'd share my build. I didn't really like the idea of soldering connectors to the hot swap board, so I decided to go a slightly different route. It's not the fanciest looking thing, but I removed the hot swap board and used jumpers on the ribbon cable inside the unit. I added a potentiometer with a knob to the front of the PSU for voltage adjustment and then the power wires go to terminal blocks that I added to the top.
https://ibb.co/eoNH8o https://ibb.co/eFTkuT https://ibb.co/dw4rZT https://ibb.co/bzhBZT https://ibb.co/e5Ruoo |
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07-24-2018, 10:19 PM | #230 | |
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As far as leaving it hooked up a long time... I would only use this for flashing computers and coding, I would not use it as a normal battery charger. Although I don't think it would hurt anything, if your battery was very low it's possible this would rapid charge your battery which may not be good for the life of the battery. |
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07-25-2018, 02:29 PM | #231 | |
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11-06-2018, 04:34 AM | #232 | |
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I have tried to follow this build and when I'm using the 3 and 9 pins I can regulate the voltage without any problem, but when I'm trying to sense the power (pins 7 and 9) my voltage is only 12.2-12.8, but I have no load connected. Any one tried that and confirmed it could work on in real? |
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01-10-2019, 05:48 PM | #233 |
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Thanks to the pioneers of this PSU for investigating, testing and sharing the infos to make others able to DIY this unit.
Want to start a single unit along the given DIY manual. Questions which came up:
Thanks for clarifiying |
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01-10-2019, 06:46 PM | #234 | |
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looked into the DPS 1200FB as well. Can you explain a little more what you excatly modded? Thx |
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03-25-2019, 09:28 PM | #235 |
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I just did this build with the PSUs suggested in the OP. Adjusted then to 13.6V and then rigged them up to be in parallel. But as soon as I connect it to the posts under the hood, the voltage drops to 12.9V (reading on a Fluke MM at the boot terminals), and ISTA-P is quiting complaining that the voltage is below 13V (Treminal 15/30 are reading around 12V-11.9V) any suggestiongs? I am using 10G cables and quick disconnects at the PSUs.
thanks Last edited by pavjayt; 03-25-2019 at 10:43 PM.. |
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05-12-2019, 12:33 PM | #236 | |
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Did you get this resolved? I've just ordered two of the same PSUs from eBay 5 minutes ago before seeing your message |
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02-19-2020, 09:28 PM | #237 | |
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Thanks for these photos, I noticed that you used a potentiometer on each unit, separately. I've already built a functioning unit from one of the suggested PSU but am considering adding a second in the hopes of adding stability At the same time, I want to add an onboard Volt/Amp meter as well as variable potentiometer. Old thread, I know. Wonder what your thoughts are on this? |
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02-23-2020, 06:14 AM | #238 | |
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I have a build of Dell JD200 or Dell KD175 units, 1600w and 120A continius amps Google them for some reviews and how easy and popular they are. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...wer-supply-mod |
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02-23-2020, 10:17 PM | #239 | |
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It would be nice to use what I already have though, if I could. I do have another of these PSU after buying 2 when I first set this up last year. I noticed that it seems a bit unstable from time to time. Although it's been stable enough to program with no issue, I would like it to be more solid for my own peace of mind. I'll look into those though, thanks for the suggestion. |
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03-06-2020, 01:32 PM | #241 |
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03-10-2020, 12:38 PM | #242 | |
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