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      10-07-2017, 08:08 PM   #221
bms5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboulfad View Post
Ok cool! I just finished with my bro soldering and wiring, set the output to 13.7V, now it's been connected to the car. It's been now 20mn that I have it connected, and the voltage dropped slightly from 13.45 to 13.41 under load, ignition on, fan on, radio, lights, ... If I switch off most of the stuff but keep ignition on, voltage goes back 13.45!

So not sure what's going on, the PSU is meant to maintain constant voltage... Ok just unplugged the PSU and am monitoring voltage under load, and it's dropping to 13.3V, so PSU seems to maintain a steady voltage but varying under load, weird... Here's a pic with Anderson connector.
Hi Aboulfad, I've just built a dual setup like yours but am wondering what the part number for the Anderson connector is. I've tried searching online but don't see a 2 into 1 connector like you've used. Also, what gauge of wire did you use? (Hi from the west coast!)
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      10-07-2017, 08:31 PM   #222
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@bms5 , I bought them from my local electronic parts store. You can buy them online from many places. https://www.andersonpower.com/us/

Or you can use any other quick connect w the proper amperage.

I think I used AWG4.
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      11-20-2017, 06:05 PM   #223
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I happen to have a Mean Well RSP-2000-24 21-28V, 68A continuous power supply to drive my RC helicopter battery charger. It's always worked flawlessly for that purpose.

To repurpose it for coding and programming my e92 M3 I'd obviously need to step the voltage down by 12V. Any recommendations for a suitable DC/DC converter?

I'm not familiar with where to source such a thing, and for ones with continuous output ratings of 45+ Amps, my initial searching is only turning up options that cost hundreds of dollars. For that I could just buy an RSP-2000-12, which has a 90A rating, and can be adjusted up to 14V.

Last edited by ibrandt; 11-20-2017 at 06:14 PM.. Reason: Corrected current values for 115VAC in.
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      04-13-2018, 05:02 AM   #224
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I have a original PSU from BMW factory. It is a programmable DEUTRONIC DBL 430 with supports 70amps.

Because its programmable i can adjust the charging voltage and so on. What is the right value, for flashing the vehicle ?

Next week my car will be flashed remotly, and the guy said a PSU is not needed, but i want to lad the car to prevent failures during the flashing process. So my question is:

1. do I have to fasten the seatbelt while flashing (when i coded the car i had to fasten the seatbelt to prevent the car from going to sleep after 20min)

2. what is the right voltage value for the PSU to charge the Lithium battery in my M4


Thank you guys
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      04-14-2018, 05:31 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F82_Bavaria View Post
1. do I have to fasten the seatbelt while flashing (when i coded the car i had to fasten the seatbelt to prevent the car from going to sleep after 20min)
2. what is the right voltage value for the PSU to charge the Lithium battery in my M4
1. Yes
2. Any voltage > 13V, 13.6 is what I choose based on the ISTA doc and my own notes which you can find in this thread
3. Adjust and go in maintenance mode while flashing, or whatever it's called to operate your "charger" in PSU mode
Attached Images
 
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      04-16-2018, 02:56 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboulfad View Post
1. Yes
2. Any voltage > 13V, 13.6 is what I choose based on the ISTA doc and my own notes which you can find in this thread
3. Adjust and go in maintenance mode while flashing, or whatever it's called to operate your "charger" in PSU mode
Thank you very much. Now i am save
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      07-18-2018, 10:32 PM   #227
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I made mine like yours. So, how to connect this to my car?

Such a dumb question but.....
How to connect this PSU to the car?
Directly connect Positive(+) to positive(+) on battery and negative(-) to negative(-) on battery?
One more thing.
Isn't this make over charge the battery if I connect long time?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SO...mjqib19ZdP-hFR

Last edited by hanadul; 07-20-2018 at 11:00 AM.. Reason: upload picture
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      07-20-2018, 11:20 AM   #228
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Explanation of my project following TERAHERTZ!

First of all, Thanks you for your information TERAHERTZ!
Please follow TERAHERTZ's info and read below for little more tip.

Here's my explanation about my project following TERAHERTZ's info.

It will cost $55-60 if you buy Jump cable and 2 PSUs only.
It will cost $75-80 if you buy all of below except soldering iron & tools with a lot of left over.
It will take about 2-5 hours to complete this project depending on your skill (I took 4 hours ).

1. 2 of HP PSUs ($35-45 on Ebay)
2. 6 gauge 25ft long Battery Jump Cable
($13-16 on Amazon, it can handle 101 Amp, 4.11mm. 4 Awg is too thick to solder
& pay a lot more when you buy matched quick connectors)
3. 5-10 Arduino Jumper Wires
($5 for 100 pcs on Amazon, female to female. Cut 3 wires into 1/2 and make it 10 total)
4. 2 Trailer Quick Connectors (2 of 6 Agw = $6-8, 2 of 4 Agw = $15-20 on Amazon)
5. 2 1k Potentiometers (10 for $5, 50 for $10 on Amazon)
6. Some Shrink tubes (300 for $5-8 on Amazon or electrical tape)
7. Soldering Iron with accessory (if you don't have it, ......I don't know)
8. Some small tools (small screw drivers, pin set, utility knife, wire cutter...)

Soldering is most difficult work for me.
Put soldering paste/flux on wires and contacts on PSUs so make it easy to soak solders.
Put shrink tubes on the wire before soldering.
Spend 5 minutes and watch Youtube "how to solder wires"

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E-...ms9rA8vnHOUwdH




Last edited by hanadul; 07-20-2018 at 11:28 AM.. Reason: upload picture
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      07-24-2018, 10:06 PM   #229
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Figured I'd share my build. I didn't really like the idea of soldering connectors to the hot swap board, so I decided to go a slightly different route. It's not the fanciest looking thing, but I removed the hot swap board and used jumpers on the ribbon cable inside the unit. I added a potentiometer with a knob to the front of the PSU for voltage adjustment and then the power wires go to terminal blocks that I added to the top.



https://ibb.co/eoNH8o



https://ibb.co/eFTkuT



https://ibb.co/dw4rZT



https://ibb.co/bzhBZT



https://ibb.co/e5Ruoo
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      07-24-2018, 10:19 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanadul View Post
Such a dumb question but.....
How to connect this PSU to the car?
Directly connect Positive(+) to positive(+) on battery and negative(-) to negative(-) on battery?
One more thing.
Isn't this make over charge the battery if I connect long time?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SO...mjqib19ZdP-hFR
Don't hook up directly to the battery, hook it to the smart posts under the hood. It only outputs 13.8V maximum, which is similar to alternator voltage so I don't think there's a risk of overcharging.

As far as leaving it hooked up a long time... I would only use this for flashing computers and coding, I would not use it as a normal battery charger. Although I don't think it would hurt anything, if your battery was very low it's possible this would rapid charge your battery which may not be good for the life of the battery.
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      07-25-2018, 02:29 PM   #231
hanadul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Don't hook up directly to the battery, hook it to the smart posts under the hood. It only outputs 13.8V maximum, which is similar to alternator voltage so I don't think there's a risk of overcharging.

As far as leaving it hooked up a long time... I would only use this for flashing computers and coding, I would not use it as a normal battery charger. Although I don't think it would hurt anything, if your battery was very low it's possible this would rapid charge your battery which may not be good for the life of the battery.
Thank you.
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      11-06-2018, 04:34 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre26 View Post
I just bought two of ones for 4 Euros + shipping (20 E) ...
Going to connect them in // (13V-90A)
I saw on others threads that in this way NO need to isolate the negative DC part of the second unit.
They are each one linked with the Body unit AND the AC ground (verified with a multimeter).
About the moded Voltage on output, they told that they linked the 2 sensors (Pin7 and 9) with a calibrated resistance that works in // with the factory one inside used by the unit, I also put the correspondence:
1.8K ......... 13.8V
2.1K ......... 13.6V
2.3K ......... 13.5V
2.7K ......... 13.35V
3.3K ......... 13.2V
3.9K ......... 13.1V
4.7K ......... 13.0V
10K .......... 12.7V
I will verify after I received the Pins sockets, I took those from BMW, Réf = 1252 1 436 649 instead of unmounts the whole thing for what I want to have.
I think first try classic thread (Pin3 and 9)and both are running, before the new one and if the output doesn't look sufficient.
Aboulfad told about that he would try but didn't give the results.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1#post22805472
Was it any update on this gents?

I have tried to follow this build and when I'm using the 3 and 9 pins I can regulate the voltage without any problem, but when I'm trying to sense the power (pins 7 and 9) my voltage is only 12.2-12.8, but I have no load connected.

Any one tried that and confirmed it could work on in real?
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      01-10-2019, 05:48 PM   #233
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Thanks to the pioneers of this PSU for investigating, testing and sharing the infos to make others able to DIY this unit.

Want to start a single unit along the given DIY manual.

Questions which came up:
  • Are there female or male Arduino Jumper Wires needed?
  • Which gauge and which length is best for the PSU cables connecting to the battery posts in the engine bay?
  • Which pins have to be used to attach a on/off switch?
  • Reading through the whole thread made me a little confused about where the POT now has to be placed - are the pins 3 and 9 to use or the pins 7 and 9?

Thanks for clarifiying
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      01-10-2019, 06:46 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psedog View Post
Just finished building my power supply. This is a DPS-1200FB which requires you to remove a POT and solder in some resistors in its place. 12.8VDC is the most you can get without modding it. I used 3 470? and 1 270? resistors to get the voltage up to 13.45VDC. I'm going to use some spare 4AWG cable I have leftover from old sub systems to hook it up.

[IMG]http://psedog.com/hostedfiles/BMW/My%20M3/IMG_8700.JPG[/IMG]
Hey psedog,

looked into the DPS 1200FB as well. Can you explain a little more what you excatly modded?

Thx
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      03-25-2019, 09:28 PM   #235
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I just did this build with the PSUs suggested in the OP. Adjusted then to 13.6V and then rigged them up to be in parallel. But as soon as I connect it to the posts under the hood, the voltage drops to 12.9V (reading on a Fluke MM at the boot terminals), and ISTA-P is quiting complaining that the voltage is below 13V (Treminal 15/30 are reading around 12V-11.9V) any suggestiongs? I am using 10G cables and quick disconnects at the PSUs.

thanks

Last edited by pavjayt; 03-25-2019 at 10:43 PM..
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      05-12-2019, 12:33 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavjayt View Post
I just did this build with the PSUs suggested in the OP. Adjusted then to 13.6V and then rigged them up to be in parallel. But as soon as I connect it to the posts under the hood, the voltage drops to 12.9V (reading on a Fluke MM at the boot terminals), and ISTA-P is quiting complaining that the voltage is below 13V (Treminal 15/30 are reading around 12V-11.9V) any suggestiongs? I am using 10G cables and quick disconnects at the PSUs.

thanks

Did you get this resolved? I've just ordered two of the same PSUs from eBay 5 minutes ago before seeing your message
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      02-19-2020, 09:28 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
Figured I'd share my build. I didn't really like the idea of soldering connectors to the hot swap board, so I decided to go a slightly different route. It's not the fanciest looking thing, but I removed the hot swap board and used jumpers on the ribbon cable inside the unit. I added a potentiometer with a knob to the front of the PSU for voltage adjustment and then the power wires go to terminal blocks that I added to the top.



https://ibb.co/eoNH8o



https://ibb.co/eFTkuT



https://ibb.co/dw4rZT



https://ibb.co/bzhBZT



https://ibb.co/e5Ruoo

Thanks for these photos,

I noticed that you used a potentiometer on each unit, separately.
I've already built a functioning unit from one of the suggested PSU but am considering adding a second in the hopes of adding stability
At the same time, I want to add an onboard Volt/Amp meter as well as variable potentiometer.

Old thread, I know.
Wonder what your thoughts are on this?
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      02-23-2020, 06:14 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBC28704 View Post
Thanks for these photos,

I noticed that you used a potentiometer on each unit, separately.
I've already built a functioning unit from one of the suggested PSU but am considering adding a second in the hopes of adding stability
At the same time, I want to add an onboard Volt/Amp meter as well as variable potentiometer.

Old thread, I know.
Wonder what your thoughts are on this?
The original unit he has in this post is actually quite old and since there have developments of much better and stronger units. Rather then joining them in parallel and adding more wiring, you could now have a single unit of 100A + with no problems running at 13.8V smoothly.

I have a build of Dell JD200 or Dell KD175 units, 1600w and 120A continius amps

Google them for some reviews and how easy and popular they are.


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...wer-supply-mod
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      02-23-2020, 10:17 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpro View Post
The original unit he has in this post is actually quite old and since there have developments of much better and stronger units. Rather then joining them in parallel and adding more wiring, you could now have a single unit of 100A + with no problems running at 13.8V smoothly.

I have a build of Dell JD200 or Dell KD175 units, 1600w and 120A continius amps

Google them for some reviews and how easy and popular they are.


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...wer-supply-mod
Makes sense.

It would be nice to use what I already have though, if I could.

I do have another of these PSU after buying 2 when I first set this up last year.

I noticed that it seems a bit unstable from time to time.

Although it's been stable enough to program with no issue, I would like it to be more solid for my own peace of mind.

I'll look into those though, thanks for the suggestion.
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      03-05-2020, 03:53 PM   #240
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There's two metal wires that need to be broken in the original guide. I don't see them in your revision.
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      03-06-2020, 01:32 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railgun View Post
What are they/did they connect to?

Perhaps I can trace back to determine where they are here.
Both ends were soldered into holes on the board. I have no idea, sorry. That step came from the RC forums.
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      03-10-2020, 12:38 PM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railgun View Post
So in my infinite wisdom, I didn't even notice that the two PSUs I'd received are different.

The proper 600PB in fact does have the jumper wires indicated. Though I'm able to control the voltage without cutting those. As I'm not an engineer, no idea what those wires are and whether they're required. I'd not seen anything in some of the YT vids suggestion it was required unless it's a current thing.

The model that didn't have said jumpers was:

PS-3601-1C. Though nothing has been done to that, it does NOT turn on after jumping the requisite pins.
Breaking those jumper wires is isolating a ground. I don't actually know if it's needed or not. I remember someone saying it wasn't. I did it because the rc forums said so.
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