Bimmerworld GT-More

[SYT_Shadow]

Looks daily-driveable to me!! sweet!!

[MaX PL]

Shadow,

Do you run your MCS on the CS divorced or coilover rear?
If coilover, what spring rate F/R have you experimented with and now settled on?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

Shadow,

Do you run your MCS on the CS divorced or coilover rear?
If coilover, what spring rate F/R have you experimented with and now settled on?

I've run both in the CS, but for the past two seasons the full coilover. The rear is eye to eye and way stronger than the E9X gen, I see no issues with the setup.

I run the BW recommended 800/700

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

@SYT_Shadow
why do you say this would be insane?

[RugbyBro]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

@SYT_Shadow
why do you say this would be insane?

Let’s just say SYT_Shadow likes to party

[MaX PL]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I've run both in the CS, but for the past two seasons the full coilover. The rear is eye to eye and way stronger than the E9X gen, I see no issues with the setup.

I run the BW recommended 800/700

Thanks. I've been doing some research into this and see that BW recommends 600/900, that you ran 800/1200, and that now you've settled on 800/700.

Why did you drop from the 800/1200?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by MaX PL

Thanks. I've been doing some research into this and see that BW recommends 600/900, that you ran 800/1200, and that now you've settled on 800/700.

Why did you drop from the 800/1200?

550/800 or so is a dual duty setup
600/900 is more serious
700/1000 is the next step
800/1200 is their max streetable, off the shelf fitment

Setups 1, 2, 3, 4 are all divorced. The equivalent of 800/1200 is roughly 800/700 in full coilover

[MaX PL]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

550/800 or so is a dual duty setup
600/900 is more serious
700/1000 is the next step
800/1200 is their max streetable, off the shelf fitment

Setups 1, 2, 3, 4 are all divorced. The equivalent of 800/1200 is roughly 800/700 in full coilover

Great thanks for the info.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

@SYT_Shadow
why do you say this would be insane?

Because the Bimmerworld package doesn't go on a dual duty car. Limited steering is an almost insurmountable PITA for a street driven, street parked car. That's before talking about all the solid bushings in the SPL-style arms that are part of the package which cannot be driven in salt etc.

The GTMore project is not for dual duty cars, or for cars that have significant others etc in them. It's building a M4 GT4+ out of your M. This isn't something that should be taken lightly.
Even simple mods like a race worthy BBK or suspension subtract daily-driveability from the car. The GTMore project is that, x10.

I'd bet money that if you call Bimmerworld and say 'take my money', then explain your car is parked in Manhattan and your wife/gf/kids get into the car for regular transportation, they will steer you clear of the setup.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

My goal is to make my passengers so miserable that my wife allows me buy a dedicated daily driver.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

My goal is to make my passengers so miserable that my wife allows me buy a dedicated daily driver.

#lifegoals

[fanatic1]

BW set me up with 700/1000 divorced on MCS 1W and absolutely loved it!

[stevehifi]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Because the Bimmerworld package doesn't go on a dual duty car. Limited steering is an almost insurmountable PITA for a street driven, street parked car. That's before talking about all the solid bushings in the SPL-style arms that are part of the package which cannot be driven in salt etc.

The GTMore project is not for dual duty cars, or for cars that have significant others etc in them. It's building a M4 GT4+ out of your M. This isn't something that should be taken lightly.
Even simple mods like a race worthy BBK or suspension subtract daily-driveability from the car. The GTMore project is that, x10.

I'd bet money that if you call Bimmerworld and say 'take my money', then explain your car is parked in Manhattan and your wife/gf/kids get into the car for regular transportation, they will steer you clear of the setup.

^THIS

Speaking from my own experience because I too run ~700lbs/in on all four corners (true coilover) and i've tried many different spring rates and setups.

Once you go up to that kind of rate in the rear and add BBK and a bunch of spherical bushings all over the place you're in dedicated track car territory that barely works on the street. You'll have all kinds of weird noises coming from the suspension and brakes that may or may not drive you and your passengers crazy.
Then you start to add wider wheel/tires sizes in the front with wider track and then it's a wrestling match with the steering.

If you want a fast fun street car with occasional track use this is definitely the wrong thread to read

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by fanatic1

BW set me up with 700/1000 divorced on MCS 1W and absolutely loved it!

You can't go wrong with that setup. Fantastic and maintains lots of civility

[mcvaughan]

Maybe I'm getting too old but my street setup on my MCS 2WNR is 1C 1R 😆. Track is a different story. 😁

BTW on BW setup with 550F 450R CO rear setup.

[silverbackf8x]

Dual Duty: Street/Track

MCS 2WR Rear Coilover
^ setup by Racewerkz in Burbank, CA
60mm Swift Springs F&R
13kg front
11kg rear
Vorshlag Camber Plates
- SPL arms throughout … last are the inner and outer lower control arm subframe and knuckle bushings to swap to Millway and SPL.

Street Settings:
Front & Rear R:8 C: 4
Nitrogen: 130/120
* IMHO: Rides smoother and less jarring than OE non-EDC suspension

Track Settings:
Front: R:12-16 C:6-8
Rear: R:12-14 C: 6-8
Nitrogen: F: 190 R: 160

* Rides smooth, stiffer than most would like but I didn’t want anything softer. I have old man back as well, but I also don’t mind a bucket seat in a daily as long as it’s on a slider. Might go up on spring rate up front but need to maximize everything else to see if I really want/need that.

- Installing Front Adjustable 30mm Sway Bar & possibly swapping to a ZCP/CS rear OE sway bar with Polyflex bushings but need to see how the car behaves after the front sway bar swap. Don’t want to play with the rear anymore than once since it’s a pain to get to.

[aswy6]

Interesting… so they swapped all fluids with Redline. I wanted to ask if one of my local shops can use Redline for my oil diff fluid and they said that Redline is bad for the OEM eDiff. Also advised against Redline Engine oil and said to use Liqui moly 5w-40 instead.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by mcvaughan

Maybe I'm getting too old but my street setup on my MCS 2WNR is 1C 1R 😆. Track is a different story. 😁

BTW on BW setup with 550F 450R CO rear setup.

My street setup on the 3W MCS is highspeed comp 0, lowspeed comp 0, rebound at track setting

Works really well!

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Interesting… so they swapped all fluids with Redline. I wanted to ask if one of my local shops can use Redline for my oil diff fluid and they said that Redline is bad for the OEM eDiff. Also advised against Redline Engine oil and said to use Liqui moly 5w-40 instead.

When it comes to oils and fluids everyone has an 'opinion' of what works and what doesn't.

In the case of Bimmerworld, they are likely the largest operator of M4 GT4s and their 'opinion' on fluids is backed by what they use in their race cars. That carries some weight, at least with me

[aswy6]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

When it comes to oils and fluids everyone has an 'opinion' of what works and what doesn't.

In the case of Bimmerworld, they are likely the largest operator of M4 GT4s and their 'opinion' on fluids is backed by what they use in their race cars. That carries some weight, at least with me

The argument of the shop was that eDiff only works with stock fluid. They told me redline fluid in OEM diff will hurt it. They also said if i were to have some racing diff like in GT4 then yeah Redline will work well

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by aswy6

The argument of the shop was that eDiff only works with stock fluid. They told me redline fluid in OEM diff will hurt it. They also said if i were to have some racing diff like in GT4 then yeah Redline will work well

I've always been told the same thing regarding oem diffs and trannys: only OEM fluids.

With the DCT, I use redline as the M4 GT4 DCT and the regular M one is the same.

With the diff, based on their feedback here I'll start running redline in my ediff

I've been running redline oils for a while

[bimmerboyE92]

Originally Posted by aswy6

The argument of the shop was that eDiff only works with stock fluid. They told me redline fluid in OEM diff will hurt it. They also said if i were to have some racing diff like in GT4 then yeah Redline will work well

BMW argues that you must run 0w30 LL-04 in the engine until the car tells you to change it. And nobody listens!

Run the redline in diff and track hard!