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      06-30-2023, 08:57 AM   #67
Theruleslawyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3R1CS0 View Post
That’s crazy! You managed to fit 295/35/18 on stock suspension.

I’m also looking to run that tire size but on a 11” rim just like Assist’s M4. I’m on Ohlins R&T and I have full suite SPL arms.

Knowing that you have experience fitting that size you think I can fit 18x11 +34 (with spacers of course) with 295/35/18 in the front?
The biggest issue with Ohlins is they have reduced inner clearance. My track wheels that cleared no problem on stock EDC needed a 6mm spacer to rotate free, which means closer to 10 with deflection in mind. I have 275/35/18 re71rs with a 12mm spacer up front on ohlins at -3 and they dont rub, but there is also very little extra room. I need to talk to 3dm about getting some shorter front springs so I can move the perches up if I want to run a wider tire I think. Rear isn't a problem. If I have time this weekend I can try and mount my rears up front. That would be 295/35/18 et44 11" but with a spacer, 32 effective.
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      06-30-2023, 09:41 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer View Post
The biggest issue with Ohlins is they have reduced inner clearance. My track wheels that cleared no problem on stock EDC needed a 6mm spacer to rotate free, which means closer to 10 with deflection in mind. I have 275/35/18 re71rs with a 12mm spacer up front on ohlins at -3 and they dont rub, but there is also very little extra room. I need to talk to 3dm about getting some shorter front springs so I can move the perches up if I want to run a wider tire I think. Rear isn't a problem. If I have time this weekend I can try and mount my rears up front. That would be 295/35/18 et44 11" but with a spacer, 32 effective.
That worries me… OP is running 10.5 and +13 effective after accounting for the 12mm spacer. I’m hoping that despite the .5 inch wider wheel it would still be possible since it’s still a 295/35. However, this is all imaginary since I have no idea how tight we’re actually talking about. Nonetheless, I still appreciate it if you’re able to grasp an idea of whether you think this is possible or not. I also forgot to mention that I have camber plates if that matters.
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      06-30-2023, 12:33 PM   #69
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Is there that big of an advantage going to 295/35 squared vs the more common and shorter 295/30 squared? This is what I'm running now. I suppose going to 35 profile in rear can help with longitudinal grip. Any other reasons?
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      06-30-2023, 01:22 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heyyouduh View Post
Is there that big of an advantage going to 295/35 squared vs the more common and shorter 295/30 squared? This is what I'm running now. I suppose going to 35 profile in rear can help with longitudinal grip. Any other reasons?
Mostly the speedo is more accurate. Using a taller tire avoids shifting in autocross. A 30 series tire would be much more likely to need a shift to 3rd, particularly on a dct. On a hpde only tire....meh.
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      06-30-2023, 01:38 PM   #71
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Thanks for sharing, will be following your build as it progresses.
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      06-30-2023, 01:44 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3R1CS0 View Post
That’s crazy! You managed to fit 295/35/18 on stock suspension.

I’m also looking to run that tire size but on a 11” rim just like Assist’s M4. I’m on Ohlins R&T and I have full suite SPL arms.

Knowing that you have experience fitting that size you think I can fit 18x11 +34 (with spacers of course) with 295/35/18 in the front?
You’d need a big spacer and a lot of camber. But yes it could work if you have patience to figure it out lol
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      06-30-2023, 01:46 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heyyouduh View Post
Is there that big of an advantage going to 295/35 squared vs the more common and shorter 295/30 squared? This is what I'm running now. I suppose going to 35 profile in rear can help with longitudinal grip. Any other reasons?
I honestly did it for looks. I hate the look of bicycle tires on cars
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      06-30-2023, 01:50 PM   #74
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Just bought some kw clubsports 3 way from a member here. Supposedly Bimmerworld suggested that my stock suspension was last culprit for my braking issues. As I’m over driving the car with all the weight.

Can’t wait to install these
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      07-01-2023, 02:26 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jlaflo View Post
Just bought some kw clubsports 3 way from a member here. Supposedly Bimmerworld suggested that my stock suspension was last culprit for my braking issues. As I’m over driving the car with all the weight.

Can’t wait to install these
Please post updates on how your wheels and tires fit with these
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      07-01-2023, 12:24 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jlaflo View Post
Just bought some kw clubsports 3 way from a member here. Supposedly Bimmerworld suggested that my stock suspension was last culprit for my braking issues. As I’m over driving the car with all the weight.

Can’t wait to install these
I have the same coilovers and run 315/30 in the front. There is no noticeable rubbing but a small amount does occur as there's some paint worn in the wheel arch lining. We had to cut out some of the wheel arch lining, utilise Millway camber plates instead of the KW top mounts and adjustable drop links. It performs great on track. It also limits the amount the car can be lowered. You can see my build thread for pictures.
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      07-19-2023, 08:45 AM   #77
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FOR BRAKES:

There's an inherent issue with the stock 4 piston calipers, the rotor is too thin and there is not enough thermal mass to absorb the heat from a track session, it peaks quick and then all the heat goes to the fluid and pad. Why did BMW make the rotor only 30mm thick is questionable but there a solution! I spoke with the guys at Paragon Braking about the issue (and suggested the thermal mass issue) and they are now going to make a heavier rotor for more thermal capacity. You can mention my name, Mitch from bimmerpost (you can ask for Godfrey at Paragon), they should know what you're talking about if not say you want the 72 vane rotor. Add some castrol SRF and now the weakest link should be either your pad or the dust seal, I suggest titanium shims to help insulate some of the heat transfer and also add some thermal mass. Pads are way more important than people think, you shed heat in the form of dust! Heat is the enemy! These F8x are amazing cars, the brakes are the weak point it's time we fix it without a BBK!
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      07-19-2023, 01:44 PM   #78
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Good stuff mitch32 Like the solution and must give that a try.

Then I think seats for me are next. Need to get something to better hold my arse in-place.
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      07-19-2023, 03:17 PM   #79
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Interested to hear how it performs. Without a dimension change how are they adding substantial mass? Filling in the vane are seems like it would compromise cooling. Better performing vanes seems like it would be perferred over a heavier rotor in stock size. I thought that was how girodiscs worked.
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      07-19-2023, 03:29 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer View Post
Interested to hear how it performs. Without a dimension change how are they adding substantial mass? Filling in the vane are seems like it would compromise cooling. Better performing vanes seems like it would be perferred over a heavier rotor in stock size. I thought that was how girodiscs worked.
The girodisc rotor is 32mm, so slightly thicker than OEM yet they probably weight less. Curious to hear about how this new 034 rotor stacks up.
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      07-19-2023, 03:33 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch32 View Post
FOR BRAKES:

There's an inherent issue with the stock 4 piston calipers, the rotor is too thin and there is not enough thermal mass to absorb the heat from a track session, it peaks quick and then all the heat goes to the fluid and pad. Why did BMW make the rotor only 30mm thick is questionable but there a solution! I spoke with the guys at Paragon Braking about the issue (and suggested the thermal mass issue) and they are now going to make a heavier rotor for more thermal capacity. You can mention my name, Mitch from bimmerpost (you can ask for Godfrey at Paragon), they should know what you're talking about if not say you want the 72 vane rotor. Add some castrol SRF and now the weakest link should be either your pad or the dust seal, I suggest titanium shims to help insulate some of the heat transfer and also add some thermal mass. Pads are way more important than people think, you shed heat in the form of dust! Heat is the enemy! These F8x are amazing cars, the brakes are the weak point it's time we fix it without a BBK!

Fyi - Racing Brake sells stainless steel pistons and high temps boots and seals for the blue OEM brakes. With upgraded rotors and Ti shims it's a great set-up. You'll want to remove the dust/splash shields too for added air flow.

https://racingbrake.com/bb-43bsp/
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      07-19-2023, 03:51 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer View Post
Interested to hear how it performs. Without a dimension change how are they adding substantial mass? Filling in the vane are seems like it would compromise cooling. Better performing vanes seems like it would be perferred over a heavier rotor in stock size. I thought that was how girodiscs worked.
Yes in the vanes, adding more vanes. It’s best to do it with thickness if you can but in this case there’s limited room. Adding mass though the vanes will add thermal mass which is what this car needs.
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      08-27-2023, 09:30 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3R1CS0 View Post
Please post updates on how your wheels and tires fit with these

The 295/35 didn’t fit with the kw cs.

I had a 12 spacer on a 10.5 +25 wheel before.

I had to run a 5mill slip on to get clearance. So it’s effectively 10.5 +7 to clear the spring

I ordered a 18mm spacer just for a little more clearance.

The car sits really low
In the front now. Need to dial in the height. With these coils. Don’t want to destory my lip again
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      08-27-2023, 04:38 PM   #84
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Just read your entire build thread man, nice job so far. Lots of good info here, so thank you! Looking forward to the progression!
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      08-28-2023, 09:08 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jlaflo View Post
The 295/35 didn’t fit with the kw cs.

I had a 12 spacer on a 10.5 +25 wheel before.

I had to run a 5mill slip on to get clearance. So it’s effectively 10.5 +7 to clear the spring

I ordered a 18mm spacer just for a little more clearance.

The car sits really low
In the front now. Need to dial in the height. With these coils. Don’t want to destory my lip again
That seems like an odd offset for these cars. What is your outer clearance like?
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      08-28-2023, 09:17 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theruleslawyer View Post
That seems like an odd offset for these cars. What is your outer clearance like?
It is a odd offset. But 0 rubbing on the outer fender.

I’ll be down sizing to 275/35 again because tire rack doesn’t have 295/35 re71rs in stock. So there will be even mkre clearance
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      09-04-2023, 10:59 AM   #87
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So turns out the kw clubsports I bought from a member here were blown in the front. Pretty annoying cause he stopped responding to me. Sprayed shock juice all over my fender liner at the track and wheel.

Managed to get a 2 seconds faster pb at HMS

Cars brakes finally feel good as well. Using the pfc 11.


Homestead Speedway 1:38:41
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      09-04-2023, 11:25 AM   #88
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That's a bummer man. Similar thing happened to me when I bought some used motons that were "just rebuilt" but blew a rear shock within 50miles. The seller couldn't believe it!

I will never buy used suspension components again.
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