06-15-2021, 09:30 AM | #1 |
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So I anti seized my wheel and stud...
I used the copper stuff on the studs ( I did the conversion... Hand threaded then torqued to 27 ft lbs) and the back of the wheel/hub plate... I didn't think it made that much of a difference but obviously after doing some research after someone told me that messes with torque spec, I realized the mistake. I torqued to 105, and noticed minimal rounding on the stud threads near where end of the lug would be inside the seat (m14x 1.25) when I removed the wheel to wipe off the copper anti seize.
I've since removed as much of the anti seize on the studs, lugs and hub face and everything looked clean but with the residue still in the lug threads, I torqued to 95 ft lbs. I want to hit it again with more brake cleaner and make sure the surfaces are 100% anti seize residue free but I don't want to keep stressing the stud or hub threads Question is: how bad is it or am I just making this a bigger deal than it really is?? I'm neurotic when it comes to this kind of stuff Last edited by NewF82m4; 06-15-2021 at 10:18 AM.. |
06-15-2021, 10:21 AM | #2 | |
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You didnt do any damage... You dont want to over torque the lug nuts because it might shear the studs when things get hot and expand. You dont normally get the parts hot enough on the street, its more of a concern for track ppl. The red loctite is used because sometimes when you are backing out the lug nuts, it can also back out the stud from the hub if there is no loctite used. |
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06-15-2021, 10:34 AM | #3 | |
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All the install videos for the studs said the same thing Apply loctite (blue, medium strength, but comes in a little red tube) to the short part that goes inside the hub ✓ Turn by hand all the way ✓ Torque stud to hub at 25-30 ft lbs✓ ... I did 27 so it's right in between Install wheel... Anti seize only applied the to stud and mating surface area (which has been wiped off recently) Where the lugs are used... I'll post a pick when I'm at a computer.. can't do it off my phone Last edited by NewF82m4; 06-16-2021 at 01:33 PM.. |
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06-15-2021, 10:44 AM | #4 |
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Red 271 is made for wheel studs and is normally supplied with wheel stud kits. It has holding power and heat resistance designed for wheel studs.
If the manufacturer provided the blue loctite and also recommended 25-30lbs i guess you should follow their instructions. If this is not a major brand or well known manufacturer, I would not follow their instructions. For one thing, blue loctite is usually weaker and doesnt have heat resistance. 25-30lbs is a lot of torque for the studs and might be very hard to remove when that time comes... Using red 271 and torquing to 15lbs, gives me problems removing old studs using double nut method. Now i use a light drop of 271 where it coats maybe 3 threads. |
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06-15-2021, 10:47 AM | #5 | |
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06-15-2021, 11:04 AM | #6 |
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Maybe it's just me, but I have never used anti-seize on lugs, and I've always been OK.
I don't think I've ever gotten my car back from a shop where they used it either. I have used anti-sieze in a laboratory environment when working with fasteners that get to extreme temperatures, for example, screws that are used to fasten parts onto a threaded metal block that is directly heated to several hundred degrees C. I have seen a few threads around here though discussing it, I just don't think it is needed, and it adds confusion to what torque to use. To get more accurate torque for your lugs, I highly recommend project kics lugs, they have a conical washer that spins freely where the lug mates against the wheel. This allows the threaded part of the lug to move against the threaded stud, without dragging against the conical bore at the mating surface of the wheel, (most lugs drag like this). The result is more accurate torque applied to the actual threaded component of the lug, and less torque being hidden in dragging the lug. It also better protects that conical bore of the wheels against damage. They are very sturdy, good looking, just an all around high quality product. |
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06-15-2021, 11:12 AM | #7 | |
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I read about lubed vs non lubed torque spec now... But me not having an engineering background.. just wanted to make sure my lugs don't weld themselves onto the studs. Hence why I've torqued to 95 lbs this time around... I'll check up on it Ina few days with my wrench set to 100 ft lbs see if it clicks right away. |
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06-15-2021, 11:25 AM | #8 |
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No, Project Kics are not aluminum. They are quite over-engineered for the task, which in this case is just what you'd want.
Just as a couple of more examples, just did a quick google check, Permatex and Tire Rack, 2 very reputable sources, say not to use anti-sieze on the lug threads. Of course you will always find people who disagree. For reference I bought them from EAS. No affiliation Project Kics - Iconix R40 Open End Racing Lug Nut Set SKU: PJK003 |
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06-15-2021, 11:44 AM | #9 | |
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As for the lugs.. I like the design, I'll probably pick them up later on when I'll be thinking about tracking... For now I just want to enjoy the car for what it is.. I haven't had a car like m4 (in terms of price or performance) before, which is why I'm getting neurotic about these little nuances |
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06-15-2021, 02:59 PM | #11 | |
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I think for the M12 shank it's like 15 to 20 ft lbs, M14 shank seems to be 25 to 30 ft lbs But like I said, verify with supplier/ manufacturer The 54mm look nice... I don't think I'd run spacers so if I had to change them, it'd be those Last edited by NewF82m4; 06-15-2021 at 03:10 PM.. |
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06-15-2021, 03:32 PM | #12 | |
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06-15-2021, 05:17 PM | #13 |
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Make sure if you use the Red Loctite, use just a drop. Don't use too much because when comes time to remove them, you might need a blow torch. Ask me how I know.
In terms of the Project Kics R40... the nut is steel, but I'm not sure what the conical seat is made of. Honestly though, they are the best nuts available if you like your wheels. Because of that conical seat, there is zero marring on the wheels. AND they come with a wheel lock. I've searched everything in a M14x1.25 and M14x1.5 size nut. None have the features of the PK R40. Believe me, I wish we have more options. |
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06-15-2021, 05:19 PM | #14 | |
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06-16-2021, 09:45 AM | #15 |
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For my wheel studs I was not too precious about install, I did not have a hex bit for my torque wrench so I just cranked down on it and made goodentight with an Allen wrench plus blue loctite. Macht Schnell 75mm and open ended lugs.
I figure it is pretty hard to overtorque these with an Allen wrench Photo shown with no wheel spacer. Looks like mayyyybe you could put a lug with a cap on there. |
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06-16-2021, 01:36 PM | #16 | |
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Eventually I might want a set of wheels and I was looking at the advan gt5 but I think for the money that might be overkill. For the same buck you can 2 pc rotors all round and get a set Apex wheels. |
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06-16-2021, 07:16 PM | #18 | ||
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My heart lies with Rays / volks but I wasn't a huge fan of the exact sizes and offsets they offer for this chassis. |
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06-17-2021, 11:16 AM | #19 |
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Update:
bought motorsport hardware 14.25 to 14.5 thread 78mm length + 12mm spacers I'll be cleaning the wheel backpad and mating surface on the rotor thoroughly Last edited by NewF82m4; 06-18-2021 at 06:20 AM.. |
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06-17-2021, 03:04 PM | #20 |
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Awesome. I have the exact set too that are new in the bag still. I just haven't found any lug nuts to go with it. I keep trying to buy Project Kics R40 in M14 1.5 but they are never in stock and have a 3 month lead time.
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06-17-2021, 03:08 PM | #21 |
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