M4 Audio Upgrade

[sparkymarky]

My car is mineral white. I have a white cross member with two large cutouts in it.

Above that is some sound deadening and above that it the black 'parcel shelf' (it felt like plastic to me not wood?)

So, if i've got this right, you cut the existing two large holes in the cross member metal beneath the black shelf....then mounted them to the underside of the black shelf (the black shelf that you can see if you were sat in the rear seats.....and cut away enough of that black shelf in a circle so that if you were sat in the rear seats you could peer over the rear headrests and see the face of the subs mounted below the black shelf, firing upwards towards the rear window?


I'm in the uk.......

[sparkymarky]

My car is mineral white. I have a white cross member with two large cutouts in it.

Above that is some sound deadening and above that it the black 'parcel shelf' (it felt like plastic to me not wood?)

So, if i've got this right, you cut the existing two large holes in the cross member metal beneath the black shelf....then mounted them to the underside of the black shelf (the black shelf that you can see if you were sat in the rear seats.....and cut away enough of that black shelf in a circle so that if you were sat in the rear seats you could peer over the rear headrests and see the face of the subs mounted below the black shelf, firing upwards towards the rear window?


I'm in the uk.......

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by sparkymarky

My car is mineral white. I have a white cross member with two large cutouts in it.

Above that is some sound deadening and above that it the black 'parcel shelf' (it felt like plastic to me not wood?)

So, if i've got this right, you cut the existing two large holes in the cross member metal beneath the black shelf....then mounted them to the underside of the black shelf (the black shelf that you can see if you were sat in the rear seats.....and cut away enough of that black shelf in a circle so that if you were sat in the rear seats you could peer over the rear headrests and see the face of the subs mounted below the black shelf, firing upwards towards the rear window?


I'm in the uk.......

No no! The subwoofer 'assembly' consists of the 2 dyn subs mounted to a ~3-inch thick panel of wood (the baffle). This entire contraption is bolted to the underside of the rear deck (the white metal part you see from the trunk). There has to be an airtight seal between the metal rear deck and the baffle. You want to separate the airspace in front of the driver from the airspace behind the driver as best you can. The metal rear deck is opened up a bit to allow more free air movement inside the cabin. The black plastic (parcel shelf) would benefit from some modification to allow better airflow. I drilled holes to make it a speaker cover grille, and covered the entire parcel shelf with black grill cloth to match the interior. If you're familiar with home speaker design, you want the cabinet to be as inert as possible, which is why the baffle is so thick.

[Kevin @ Integral Audio]

Originally Posted by mtr3s

How does this compare with BavSound and BimmerTech? I currently have HK and thinking about upgrades.

What RocketBoots did is an entirely different universe than Bavsound or Bimmertech, and that's WITHOUT counting that neither of them offer a subwoofer, or an amplifier for HK-equipped vehicles. If you aren't interested in doing all the work that RocketBoots did and you have high expectations, in my own humble (and biased opinion) the only two options you should be considering are our SoundstageDSP™ Ultra and Musicar. Especially if you are starting with the HK.

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

Bavsound + BimmerTech should be a nice upgrade over the stock HK. The system I installed is in a whole other league. But it also costs a lot more, and required more effort to install.

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

The total cost is a bit difficult to accurately say, since I did the install myself. All of the adapters and baffle were custom made to be plug/play by Don, but still required a good amount of labor. I'd say if you were going to have a shop do everything, it'd be in the range of a full Akra Evo

mtr3s Please give us a look. We have put an insane amount of time into putting together the best possible system - no compromises on sound quality or appearance while keeping it plug and play, at significantly less than the cost of a full Akra Evo

https://integralaudio.com/soundstagedsp-ultra.html

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

I thought I'd share my M4 audio upgrade. The car is amazing; the audio, not so much. The realism, clarity, warmth, impact, etc etc were just not there. And the soundstage was at the level of your crotch. I sought to remedy those shortcomings. Having done a number of systems over the years, I like working on BMW's audio. I thought about going crazy and doing some custom fabrication, but laziness got the better of me.

Most of these modern cars require the use of the factory head unit because so much is integrated with other functions. The M4 is no exception. I replaced the factory speakers and amp for a fully active 4-way system.

The factory signal in the trunk was tapped using a Technic harness. This gave RCA outs, which fed a Helix P SIX MK2 DSP/Amp. The Helix fit snugly into the OEM amp location.

The Helix is a 6 chan amp which outputs 120 RMS x 6, and has an RCA line level out, to feed signal to another amp, thus giving 8 fully processed channels. The Helix powered the front tweeters, mids, and underseat midbass.
The factory wiring was used for the tweeters, which were PHD AF1.cTW. They dropped in to the factory sail panels nicely, and have a polished aluminum housing which can be seen through the grill.

A new set of wires were run into the doors for the midranges, which were PHD Studio Mids. With a simple adapter, the mids drop right in. They are the perfect depth.

For the underseats, the Jehnert XE200 midbass was used. Once again, with the provided custom spacer, they drop right in.

Sub-bass duty was handled by a pair of Dynaudio MW182 woofers/subwoofers mounted to the rear deck in an IB configuration using a custom baffle, and powered by two bridged channels of a Mosconi AS100.4 amp.

All of the signal processing was handled by the P SIX: Tuning, setting the crossovers, slopes, phase, time alignment, EQ. The Helix P SIX is an amazing unit. It's a Class D amp that sounds as good or better than Class A/B; I had to hear it to believe it. And it's a powerhouse to boot!

I don't like untidy wires hanging around, so I routed a USB extension under the iDrive center trim to the cupholder area, drilled a small hole in between the cupholders, and made a USB outlet to connect my phone.

Overall, this is the best system I've done. It has a certain level of realism and pulls off the trick of making the confined space of the cabin seem larger. Transparent and detailed without any harshness or fatigue. The soundstage is solidly at the edge of the windshield/powerdome, can get wider than the A-pillars and as high as the rear view mirror. Everything sounds like it's coming from in front of you, and has impact. The Dynaudio's could be considered a woofer, not a subwoofer, by most, but they hit hard and deep enough that they function as subwoofers for me. I do not prefer the kind of bass you hear a block a way. The Dyns are tight, fast, accurate, especially in the IB configuration. The Jehnert midbasses are wonderful. They handle the critical lower midrange/midbass with accuracy and speed, play high enough to blend well with the midrange and low enough to blend with the subwoofer. IMO, they're the best underseat solution to date. The PHD midrange and tweeter are excellent; very natural and detailed without harshness or fatigue. The drivers and amp have a great synergy; they match well together. The system sounds very different than stock. And last but not least, a huge thanks goes out to Don Amann of Unexpected Creations for providing me with awesome gear, service, and advice. If you're looking to upgrade your audio, he's the best.

Hey!

Great equipment and Excellent write up!

I saw no mention of it, and I don't know what level of HK ("688" ?) sound you had in your car
at stock but, did you not need to run an in line "MOST" ("SDMI25") convertor in your wiring?

What about your instrument panels Center - Mid & Tweet?

You pretty much indicate that all you had was:

* The "Technispnp" Harness (Which one?) &
* The Helix 6 Channel Amp.

Also, I don't understand why you drilled a hole in your cupholder tray to run a USB connection
("... for your iPhone") and what does this have to do with this set up?!?

After all this time, are the PHD's still holding up and well recommended? If so, I will definitely
go with these instead of the Focal ES100K's or Audison K4E's I was considering.

Why was it necessary to re-wire (14 or 12?) the Mid's.? Were capacitors included?

Mine (F83) has the HK - 688 and I am planning to upgrade with
* A "Helix V-8 DSPMK2" &
* Audisons or Earthquakes ( - which I've read are the better choice)
for the Underseats.

I am not sure if I could power all, including the front Center, without having to add a separate
monoblock (for the Audisons or Earthquakes).

Please advise.


Cheers!

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

Hey!

Great equipment and Excellent write up!

I saw no mention of it, and I don't know what level of HK ("688" ?) sound you had in your car
at stock but, did you not need to run an in line "MOST" ("SDMI25") convertor in your wiring?

Thanks!

I ordered mine without the HK; just the 'HiFi'. With this spec, it didn't use the MOST bus, and so there was no need for a converter. It sent out an analog signal. I knew I was going to upgrade the audio, so I saved myself some $$.

What about your instrument panels Center - Mid & Tweet?

I disconnected the center. It just muddies up soundstage, imaging, richness, etc. All things audiophile.

You pretty much indicate that all you had was:

* The "Technispnp" Harness (Which one?) &
* The Helix 6 Channel Amp.

The PnP Harness was the 'HiFi' harness. I got it from Technic before he had his website up, so I'm not sure as to the model number. The Helix P-Six was used to do all the processing, and power my front stage: The tweets, mids, and underseat midbass. I used a separate Mosconi amp to power the Dynaudio subs in back.

Also, I don't understand why you drilled a hole in your cupholder tray to run a USB connection
("... for your iPhone") and what does this have to do with this set up?!?

I didn't get the Executive Package, so I didn't have a USB outlet in the front. My only USB outlet was the one in the armrest. Previously, the USB wire would be sticking out of the armrest, and dangling in the car. I suppose this has nothing to do directly with my audio system, except that it was cable management of my source.

After all this time, are the PHD's still holding up and well recommended? If so, I will definitely
go with these instead of the Focal ES100K's or Audison K4E's I was considering.

I still love the PHD's. They are excellent. They do require a little bit of tuning to get them to perform optimally in the car, but most any drivers do.

Why was it necessary to re-wire (14 or 12?) the Mid's.? Were capacitors included?

I was running my system completely active, so I needed another set of wires to power the mids. I used the existing factory wire to power the tweets. In hindsight, I probably wouldn't do this again, since the tweet and mid are so close together, and can be processed by the DSP as one channel. But also, I didn't want to have a crossover (capacitor) in the door card (to reduce weight, ). I believe I used 14 gauge wire. If you have a mid/tweet unit, with a crossover, there is no need to run another set of wires into the doors. Also, it's a PITA.

Mine (F83) has the HK - 688 and I am planning to upgrade with
* A "Helix V-8 DSPMK2" &
* Audisons or Earthquakes ( - which I've read are the better choice)
for the Underseats.

I am not sure if I could power all, including the front Center, without having to add a separate
monoblock (for the Audisons or Earthquakes).

Please advise.


Cheers!

My recommendation would be to get the Helix P-Six. While the V8 seems like a wonderful unit, the P-Six has more power where it counts, uses slightly different amplifier technology, has different DAC's (all of which I'd guess are slightly higher end). You really only need 4 of the channels: Two for the mids/tweets in the doors, and 2 for the underseats. If you wanted to add a subwoofer, you have 2 more channels. I'd disconnect the center channel and the rear speakers; they will just make things sound worse. But everybody has their own tastes, and you may want some rear speakers for fill or passengers. My car rarely had front passengers, let alone ones in the rear. Good luck with your project!

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by Kevin @ Integral Audio

What RocketBoots did is an entirely different universe than Bavsound or Bimmertech, and that's WITHOUT counting that neither of them offer a subwoofer, or an amplifier for HK-equipped vehicles. If you aren't interested in doing all the work that RocketBoots did and you have high expectations, in my own humble (and biased opinion) the only two options you should be considering are our SoundstageDSP™ Ultra and Musicar. Especially if you are starting with the HK.

That looks like a very nice package, and truly Plug-Play, unlike some others. It's nice to see more players in this market.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

Thanks!

… I didn't get the Executive Package, so I didn't have a USB outlet in the front. My only USB outlet was the one in the armrest. Previously, the USB wire would be sticking out of the armrest, and dangling in the car. I suppose this has nothing to do directly with my audio system, except that it was cable management of my source.

… I still love the PHD's. They are excellent. They do require a little bit of tuning to get them to perform optimally in the car, but most any drivers do.

I was running my system completely active, so I needed another set of wires to power the mids. I used the existing factory wire to power the tweets. In hindsight, I probably wouldn't do this again, since the tweet and mid are so close together, and can be processed by the DSP as one channel. But also, I didn't want to have a crossover (capacitor) in the door card (to reduce weight, ). I believe I used 14 gauge wire. If you have a mid/tweet unit, with a crossover, there is no need to run another set of wires into the doors. Also, it's a PITA.

My recommendation would be to get the Helix P-Six. While the V8 seems like a wonderful unit, the P-Six has more power where it counts, uses slightly different amplifier technology, has different DAC's (all of which I'd guess are slightly higher end). You really only need 4 of the channels: Two for the mids/tweets in the doors, and 2 for the underseats. If you wanted to add a subwoofer, you have 2 more channels. I'd disconnect the center channel and the rear speakers; they will just make things sound worse. But everybody has their own tastes, and you may want some rear speakers for fill or passengers. My car was rarely had front passengers, let alone ones in the rear. Good luck with your project!

Hey!

Thank you for your excellent and comprehensive response!

Since I do have the "HK - "688", I guess I will need the "SDMI25"

I wish I would've seen your post long ago! You didn't need to drill onto your cup holder tray.
Considering all the money you spent on your upgrade, you just could've purchased that
Center (under Dash) Console cover with the USB connection. You simply plug that into the
back of your head unit with special (VW/Audi-USB) cable from ebay.

Ok., So I'm going to have:

Oh! You're correct. The "P6" is of slightly Better("Burr/Brown" < THD) Quality!

2 Channels -> Front Doors Mid's. & Tweets "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit**
2 Channels -> Rear Side Panels Mid's. & Tweets - Stock HK ("fill") -
1 Channel --> Center Instrument Panel Mid & Tweet - Stock HK (fill - also)
1 Channel --> "BiAmp Cables" (Run in parallel) Underseat ("Earthquake") Sub's.

Does this sound Correct/Doable ?


Cheers!


** Where can I purchase these - outside of Italia? No one seems to sell them in the U.S..

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

Hey!

Thank you for your excellent and comprehensive response!

Since I do have the "HK - "688", I guess I will need the "SDMI25"

I wish I would've seen your post long ago! You didn't need to drill onto your cup holder tray.
Considering all the money you spent on your upgrade, you just could've purchased that
Center (under Dash) Console cover with the USB connection. You simply plug that into the
back of your head unit with special (VW/Audi-USB) cable from ebay.

Ok., So I'm going to have:

Oh! You're correct. The "P6" is of slightly Better("Burr/Brown" < THD) Quality!

2 Channels -> Front Doors Mid's. & Tweets "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit**
2 Channels -> Rear Side Panels Mid's. & Tweets - Stock HK ("fill") -
1 Channel --> Center Instrument Panel Mid & Tweet - Stock HK (fill - also)
1 Channel --> "BiAmp Cables" (Run in parallel) Underseat ("Earthquake") Sub's.

Does this sound Correct/Doable ?


Cheers!


** Where can I purchase these - outside of Italia? No one seems to sell them in the U.S..

You do NOT want your underseat woofers run from a single channel. They're midbass drivers and should be assigned accordingly.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

You do NOT want your underseat woofers run from a single channel. They're midbass drivers and should be assigned accordingly.

Ok., I don't want to have actual separate (box) woofers.

I've seen that some drive woofers through monoblock single channel (4 0hms --> 2 ohms Parallel - dedicated) Amps.

So how should I drive/wire the ("Earthquakes" - Which, I believe aren't mid basses) underseats?


Again... ""!!



Cheers!

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

Ok., I don't want to have actual separate (box) woofers.

I've seen that some drive woofers through monoblock single channel (4 0hms --> 2 ohms Parallel - dedicated) Amps.

So how should I drive/wire the ("Earthquakes" - Which, I believe aren't mid basses) underseats?


Again... ""!!



Cheers!

With or without a dedicated sub and regardless of which drivers they are they're still doing midbass duty (despite the earthquakes not being very good at it).

Just because people do something doesn't make it correct. Keep them separated- left and right, as they should be.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

With or without a dedicated sub and regardless of which drivers they are they're still doing midbass duty (despite the earthquakes not being very good at it).

Just because people do something doesn't make it correct. Keep them separated- left and right, as they should be.

Ok., Thanks!

I'm new to this so, that's why I'm researching & asking questions all over the corresponding forums/threads.

As I'm presuming fill means something sonically, doesn't the ("Helix") DSP allow the capability to tune and
assign/distribute the proper frequencies to each channel?

If I'm wrong here, please suggest the proper connections - hopefully for 6 channels.

Would you recommend other speakers for the underseats? "Jehnerts" are true mid-basses and "Audisons"
also, don't have the same frequency response.


Cheers!

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

Ok., Thanks!

I'm new to this so, that's why I'm researching & asking questions all over the corresponding forums/threads.

As I'm presuming fill means something sonically, doesn't the ("Helix") DSP allow the capability to tune and
assign/distribute the proper frequencies to each channel?

If I'm wrong here, please suggest the proper connections - hopefully for 6 channels.

Would you recommend other speakers for the underseats? "Jehnerts" are true mid-basses and "Audisons"
also, don't have the same frequency response.


Cheers!

Nothing sonic about it, 'fill' is just your rears playing and 'filling' the cabin.. from the rear. The DSP itself is quite robust and can do a lot but no DSP, from any company or category of use can take a single channel and create 2 channels of left/right separation. Proper frequencies, sure. For each channel, yes. You are only using one channel though therefore there is no 'each' in this case, your midbass drivers would play as one, unified source. When the media pans left/right your midbass drivers would not. Delay, phase, level, localization would all be common from both drivers. There is no cure or solution for this when only using one channel. You need two.

With 6 channels and active, leave the rears alone and you're fine. Quasi-active with passives or even caps on the tweeters then you can utilize the rears, passively.

There is nothing that you can put under the seats that would be a true subbass setup but even if you could it would be at the sacrifice of having a good midbass. Jehnerts will easily play into the 40hz range and do it well, barring any potential abuse or shoddy media.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

Nothing sonic about it, 'fill' is just your rears playing and 'filling' the cabin.. from the rear. The DSP itself is quite robust and can do a lot but no DSP, from any company or category of use can take a single channel and create 2 channels of left/right separation. Proper frequencies, sure. For each channel, yes. You are only using one channel though therefore there is no 'each' in this case, your midbass drivers would play as one, unified source. When the media pans left/right your midbass drivers would not. Delay, phase, level, localization would all be common from both drivers. There is no cure or solution for this when only using one channel. You need two.

With 6 channels and active, leave the rears alone and you're fine. Quasi-active with passives or even caps on the tweeters then you can utilize the rears, passively.

There is nothing that you can put under the seats that would be a true subbass setup but even if you could it would be at the sacrifice of having a good midbass. Jehnerts will easily play into the 40hz range and do it well, barring any potential abuse or shoddy media.

So, there is no frequency range that would be considered the "Fill" range

Ok., got ya!

After this, "quasi.... active, ...caps"?!?

Please show me a connection / wire flow - Such as:

* DSP/Amp.: "Helix P6 DSP MK2"
> 2 Channels -> Front Doors Mid's. & Tweets "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> 2 Channels -> Rear Side Panels Mid's. & Tweets - 2nd "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> ---> ---> ---> Center Instrument Panel Mid & Tweet - Stock HK ("Passive")
> 2 Channels -> Underseat ("Earthquakes" or "Audisons") Sub's.

Would this work?


Thanks again!



P.S.: From another forum... Did you used to be a "PHD" reseller??

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

So, there is no frequency range that would be considered the "Fill" range

Ok., got ya!

After this, "quasi.... active, ...caps"?!?

Please show me a connection / wire flow - Such as:

* DSP/Amp.: "Helix P6 DSP MK2"
> 2 Channels -> Front Doors Mid's. & Tweets "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> 2 Channels -> Rear Side Panels Mid's. & Tweets - 2nd "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> ---> ---> ---> Center Instrument Panel Mid & Tweet - Stock HK ("Passive")
> 2 Channels -> Underseat ("Earthquakes" or "Audisons") Sub's.

Would this work?


Thanks again!



P.S.: From another forum... Did you used to be a "PHD" reseller??

Yes, that would work just fine, with exception to the center channel- there is nothing to power it. No, the factory HK amplifier would not work since it would be removed and replaced by whichever MOST interface/DAC is ultimately used.

Yes, I was the US national sales manager/representative as well as national distributor.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

Yes, that would work just fine, with exception to the center channel- there is nothing to power it. No, the factory HK amplifier would not work since it would be removed and replaced by whichever MOST interface/DAC is ultimately used.

Yes, I was the US national sales manager/representative as well as national distributor.

So, who sells these today? I can't find them anywhere in the U.S. Have you got access to any N.O.S. ??

Ok., So I would need at least 7 channels to power that center channel!

If I were to have to get another amp. , I guess it would be best to use that (2 Channel) second Amp.,
to power the Sub's., correct?


Cheers!

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

So, who sells these today? I can't find them anywhere in the U.S. Have you got access to any N.O.S. ??

Ok., So I would need at least 7 channels to power that center channel!

If I were to have to get another amp. , I guess it would be best to use that (2 Channel) second Amp.,
to power the Sub's., correct?


Cheers!

I do not, sorry. Where in the US are you located ? While they were great performers they are also far from an end all, be all solution.

I would honestly set aside the focus of the center channel feeling of necessity, it's really not, at all. Aside from that you would also need the same or very similar driver(s) for it to even begin making it worth it.

If you really feel that strongly about rears and center channel then perhaps you should also consider the UP 7DSP.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

I do not, sorry. Where in the US are you located ? While they were great performers they are also far from an end all, be all solution.

I would honestly set aside the focus of the center channel feeling of necessity, it's really not, at all. Aside from that you would also need the same or very similar driver(s) for it to even begin making it worth it.

If you really feel that strongly about rears and center channel then perhaps you should also consider the UP 7DSP.

The "Match" (Audiotec-Fischer)?

The OP left out/omitted his Dash speakers.

Knowing that they're there, I just can't! [Edit.]

I'll stick with the Helix P6.

What's a good (& Not too expensive) 2 Channel (Bass) Amp. recommendation??

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

The "Match" (Audiotec-Fischer)?

The OP left out/omitted his Dash speakers.

Knowing that they're there, I just can't! [Edit.]

I'll stick with the Helix P6.

What's a good (& Not too expensive) 2 Channel (Bass) Amp. recommendation??

Because he knew they were not needed and they were not worth the trouble to do. Most would also agree.

I'm really sorry but leaving questions unanswered and going against just about every bit of solid advice I'm really not sure how I can help you here.

[Trevorstein]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

I'm really sorry but leaving questions unanswered and going against just about every bit of solid advice I'm really not sure how I can help you here.

I've appreciated all of the advice given And, I 'm definitely going to 2 Channel the Subs!

The only Info., that I can think of, that have not responded to is... "FL."!!

I posted this solution -

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

* DSP/Amp.: "Helix P6 DSP MK2" [Edit:] ---> "SDMI25" --->
> 2 Channels -> Front Doors Mid's. & Tweets "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> 2 Channels -> Rear Side Panels Mid's. & Tweets - 2nd "PHD - Studio 4.1 Pro" Kit
> ---> ---> ---> Center Instrument Panel Mid & Tweet - Stock HK ("Passive")
> 2 Channels -> Underseat ("Earthquakes" or "Audisons") Sub's.

And you responded by pointing out (not in an affirmative manner to omitting it) that I was leaving the Center Channel unamplified -
[Bad, for leaving it out!]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

Yes, that would work just fine, with exception to the center channel- there is nothing to power it. No, the factory HK amplifier would not work since it would be removed and replaced by whichever MOST interface/DAC is ultimately used.

This, together with what you just responded (in reference to the Center Channel) -
[It is Good to leave out!]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

Because he knew they were not needed and they were not worth the trouble to do. Most would also agree.

… has me even more confused... again!



Cheers!

[6spdcoupe]

Originally Posted by Trevorstein

I've appreciated all of the advice given And, I 'm definitely going to 2 Channel the Subs!

The only Info., that I can think of, that have not responded to is... "FL."!!

I posted this solution -



And you responded by pointing out (not in an affirmative manner to omitting it) that I was leaving the Center Channel unamplified -
[Bad, for leaving it out!]



This, together with what you just responded (in reference to the Center Channel) -
[It is Good to leave out!]


… has me even more confused... again!



Cheers!

Where is the confusion from ? Just because there are several speakers in a vehicle does not mean that every orifice needs to be filled with aftermarket. This is rarely the case and more often than not also cost prohibitive.

As a shop owner and 'sales man' there is no upside to me telling some to Not purchase something. Quite the opposite actually since it results in less sales which is counterproductive in a sales based business. That being said I have no motive or gain but providing that same advice here.

[Encanto]

Originally Posted by 6spdcoupe

Where is the confusion from ? Just because there are several speakers in a vehicle does not mean that every orifice needs to be filled with aftermarket. This is rarely the case and more often than not also cost prohibitive.

As a shop owner and 'sales man' there is no upside to me telling some to Not purchase something. Quite the opposite actually since it results in less sales which is counterproductive in a sales based business. That being said I have no motive or gain but providing that same advice here.

You are wasting your time.