BMW M3 and M4 Lease Rates (36 months)

[OneRib]

Originally Posted by Mav007

Thank you very much for the reply. I'm on the 46th page of this topic. Great , Great ,Great Info & kudos to all. I shall be posting my big Q after i finish reading all 65 tonight. My only little disappointment is to learn that Bay area dealers although handful are not ready to Budge with MSRP at all & MF too. i dealt with Irvine & Alexander BMW for quite sometime but need to anchor someone in SF/BAY Area. Has anyone experienced Inland California dealers( Fresno,Modesto,Bakersfield etc )? Cheers

You may find Bay area dealers are more willing to deal now that the car has been out a year. Still there is a lot of money in the area and they may have no trouble selling at MSRP.

Also check out the leasing sticky thread as well. It will go into great detail about leasing terms and benefits.

[MatthewDavid]

Originally Posted by Mav007

Thank you very much for the reply. I'm on the 46th page of this topic. Great , Great ,Great Info & kudos to all. I shall be posting my big Q after i finish reading all 65 tonight. My only little disappointment is to learn that Bay area dealers although handful are not ready to Budge with MSRP at all & MF too. i dealt with Irvine & Alexander BMW for quite sometime but need to anchor someone in SF/BAY Area. Has anyone experienced Inland California dealers( Fresno,Modesto,Bakersfield etc )? Cheers

Oh you're in the Bay Area too?I'm in SF! I've talked to literally (well almost) every dealer in California. There has been only one holding tight to sticker, BMW SF. However, every dealer I've talked to when confronted with buy rate (base money factor) is willing to concede. There's no reason you cannot get at leasing $2k off sticker from every dealer. If there car is over $80k, push for more because those are harder to move and their flooring costs are higher. Niello by the way did an instant $2,200 off sticker offer when I inquired. Rusnak did a little more on my first inquiry. Steve Thomas seems to be the forum go to, but I wanted to order and at the time they didn't have an allocation. Download Leasematic by a guy on this forum on the App Store, too. Message me directly if you want to exchange dealer tips or have questions about my experiences with any dealers in NorCal.

[Mav007]

Originally Posted by OneRib

There are multiple negotiating strategies I have seen discussed by members. The biggest keys are being knowledgeable about the vehicle you are purchasing, knowing how the manufacturer prices the vehicle, and looking beyond your local dealers.

You can ask dealers for their best quote or give them an offer. This can be done in person, on the phone, or email. I prefer email because you don't spend as much time and it gives the dealer a chance to respond, not react.

Whether you give a number or request one, make sure you know the price and configuration of the vehicle you want. Knowing the MSRP and invoice price shows you did some research. Your offer should be clear what it includes or doesn't include (fees/incentives). This keeps you offers uniform.
Same for receiving offers, just make sure they format it in the same way.

You also want to decide what's most important to you. A good relationship with a local dealer, a low stress experience, working with a CA who is responsive and knowledgeable, or getting the best "out the door price".

Great Points OneRib as usual. I certainly want good price "Out the door". Mostly these sales people don't care to call back post sale regardless how long you've been a loyal customer to check how is everything with you or car etc etc ,so why should I care how good or smooth of relationship I have with him/her. I think i'm pretty sure What I want now after reading whole 65 pages & a decent idea what to look for while negotiating the price. Thank you once again.

[Mav007]

Originally Posted by MatthewDavid

Oh you're in the Bay Area too?I'm in SF! I've talked to literally (well almost) every dealer in California. There has been only one holding tight to sticker, BMW SF. However, every dealer I've talked to when confronted with buy rate (base money factor) is willing to concede. There's no reason you cannot get at leasing $2k off sticker from every dealer. If there car is over $80k, push for more because those are harder to move and their flooring costs are higher. Niello by the way did an instant $2,200 off sticker offer when I inquired. Rusnak did a little more on my first inquiry. Steve Thomas seems to be the forum go to, but I wanted to order and at the time they didn't have an allocation. Download Leasematic by a guy on this forum on the App Store, too. Message me directly if you want to exchange dealer tips or have questions about my experiences with any dealers in NorCal.

Thank you . I pretty much figured SF will be a tough nut to crack. Will be shooting out emails to many pretty soon. Can i PM you so tha you could give me details whom to contact in and around bay area. I recently moved here from SoCal. Irvine was a great but my sales guy moved out of BMW and is now with Exotic European cars .

[MatthewDavid]

sure

Originally Posted by Mav007

Thank you . I pretty much figured SF will be a tough nut to crack. Will be shooting out emails to many pretty soon. Can i PM you so tha you could give me details whom to contact in and around bay area. I recently moved here from SoCal. Irvine was a great but my sales guy moved out of BMW and is now with Exotic European cars .

[TonyTone]

Been following this thread since we ordered the M3 from Fort Lauderdale BMW and see the residuals going up. The car should be arriving next week. What kind of numbers should I be looking for? MF and will they actually discount from the sticker?

[XRAVE]

Originally Posted by TonyTone

Been following this thread since we ordered the M3 from Fort Lauderdale BMW and see the residuals going up. The car should be arriving next week. What kind of numbers should I be looking for? MF and will they actually discount from the sticker?

You should have had the discount before you ordered

[Trips]

I've locked in for March numbers, so my numbers are good until the end of May. If for some reason the car arrives after my lock in period expires, would I be able to purchase the car earlier to ensure I get the better numbers?

[jasnh]

Originally Posted by Trips

I've locked in for March numbers, so my numbers are good until the end of May. If for some reason the car arrives after my lock in period expires, would I be able to purchase the car earlier to ensure I get the better numbers?

I am in the same boat. I ordered on March 11 with an April allocation. My car was supposed to be finished production this week but has been delayed until week 21 (3rd week of May). I asked my CA last week about this and he told me that I am locked in for March numbers no matter when the car comes in. They are not going to penalize me because of a delay on BMWs' part...AND if the numbers are better once the car comes in (probably June) I can take advantage of those. I asked him to confirm this and he did so with his manager and the finance manager.

Talk to your CA and see what he says.

[saxon]

Originally Posted by jasnh

I am in the same boat. I ordered on March 11 with an April allocation. My car was supposed to be finished production this week but has been delayed until week 21 (3rd week of May). I asked my CA last week about this and he told me that I am locked in for March numbers no matter when the car comes in. They are not going to penalize me because of a delay on BMWs' part...AND if the numbers are better once the car comes in (probably June) I can take advantage of those. I asked him to confirm this and he did so with his manager and the finance manager.

Talk to your CA and see what he says.

My CA doesn't believe this is true, my car just got pushed back until June

[jasnh]

Originally Posted by saxon

My CA doesn't believe this is true, my car just got pushed back until June

I didn't believe it either and I kept mentioning the 60 day "rule"...but he was insistent....afterwards, he talked to his manager and the finance guy and called me back to confirm. Worse case is I can use what he said to renegotiate the selling price of the car and make up for any higher residual to make my deal relatively the same.

I've worked with this dealer and CA before, I'm not worried....His words "You're not going to be penalized because BMW has delayed production of your vehicle"

[snovi]

Originally Posted by Trips

I've locked in for March numbers, so my numbers are good until the end of May. If for some reason the car arrives after my lock in period expires, would I be able to purchase the car earlier to ensure I get the better numbers?

Similar to what jasnh said, you should be fine, just contact your CA.

My CA has assured me it won't be an issue (ordered mid-March, expecting a mid/late-June delivery), as he recently had another client whose individual order came some 3+ months after their 60-day rate lock was supposed to expire. All they have to do is reach out to BMWFS to approve the rate lock extension, which they almost always do.

[OneRib]

Originally Posted by jasnh

I didn't believe it either and I kept mentioning the 60 day "rule"...but he was insistent....afterwards, he talked to his manager and the finance guy and called me back to confirm. Worse case is I can use what he said to renegotiate the selling price of the car and make up for any higher residual to make my deal relatively the same.

I've worked with this dealer and CA before, I'm not worried....His words "You're not going to be penalized because BMW has delayed production of your vehicle"

Originally Posted by snovi

Similar to what jasnh said, you should be fine, just contact your CA.

My CA has assured me it won't be an issue (ordered mid-March, expecting a mid/late-June delivery), as he recently had another client whose individual order came some 3+ months after their 60-day rate lock was supposed to expire. All they have to do is reach out to BMWFS to approve the rate lock extension, which they almost always do.

This is possible as long as BMWFS agrees (which they will). Even in the odd situation that they don't. The dealer could lower the negotiated price to make the numbers work.

[Mav007]

Friends,
Let me being by thanking all of you here. I'm writing this to let you know what i would ideally like to lease for 36 months.
1st Choice - M4 Convertible (Metallic White) With SO extended leather int & some options which on the BMW build your own costs to $86500
2nd Choice- M3 Alpine or Metallic White with same int & options costs about $76000.
I have been leasing with BMW for few years from 3series to 650i M6 750i but never ever paid attention to the details that i learnt here.
MatthewDavid mentioned that BMWSF will not budge on the MSRP but some have offered 3k off the MSRP to start with.
Now the situation at my end is that the current lease of my 335 ends sometime in Nov with atleast 10k-15k UN-USED miles for sure. I have following Q's for all the esteemed people here:
1.Should i take advantage of the Pull ahead program? I plan to stay with BMW & lease only.
2.Does BMWFS pay or adjust the UN-USED miles as cash down? If yes how much/mile rate?
3.How much Worth of MSDs should i deposit to bring the MF down to .00081(If someone can tell me how to go about it step by step shall be indebted ) for M4 & M3 respectively?
4.Looking at the sales & Quota allocated i've seen that M3 have been selling like hot cakes compared to M4. Should I wait till my lease ends for a HARDER NEGOTIATION since the car would be already 1.5 years into the market ?
5.Instead of 15k/yr mileage I think i shall opt for 12k/yr (higher Residual) & if need be purchase miles.
6.The base price difference b/w M3 & M4 convertible is about 10k (200$ per month). What do you guys think my monthly payments be come to for these two respectively? Ball park figure should do.
7. Can i count the MSDs as downpayment along with whatever i get for the un-used miles or thats me being silly? Some people in Georgia have got 10k off MSRP whats the Max that California dealers can give(5-7%??????).
8.Pls suggest what should be my best approach. Internet sales people or over the phone.
Thank you all once again. Look fwd to your inputs/suggestions.

[OneRib]

Mav007
Whoa, that is a mountain of info you are trying to get. I'll do the best that I can.
First, let me say this. The M4 vert will be easier to obtain until 2016 models roll out because of limited M3 allocations. Dealers have some ability to change an M4 slot to M3, but I don't know if they can always do this.

Now on to the questions
1- Yes, I would take advantage of the pull ahead program if you want the car as quickly as possible. It's a difficult question to answer, but one advantage of the program is it gives you more leverage and flexibility because you will not be pressed for time as you might be if your current lease were running out. As a counter argument, I will say that many times BMWFS will extend leases if need be or you could drive a beater for a time while you look or wait for the M car to arrive.

2- Yes BMW will reimburse you for unused miles, but the rate is extremely low and won't amount to much. Only in the setting of pre-purchased miles are you reimbursed in any significant way. This is why many advocate not leasing extra miles young are unlikely to use.

3- There is no way to know this because its dependent on the current MF. Right now you need 7 MSDs to get to 0.00080 (down from 0.00129). You can't do more than 7 MSDs and if the money factor is raised or you do ED (which raises MF by 0.0003) you won't be able to get to 0.00081. I would get that number out of your head and just remember to get the lowest rate (aka buy rate) that BMWFS has when you order. Then decide if you want to get the MSDs. If you are going to purchase MSDs, always try to max out with 7 as that gives you the biggest benefit and buying less still exposes you to all the shortcomings for a small amount of savings.
MSDs are calculated by running the numbers through at the reduced MF (depending on how many MSDs you want to buy) then rounding up to the nearest $50 mark. Then that number is multiplied by the number of MSDs desired.
My first post on this thread goes over this
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1084623

4- For an M3 you may have to wait. Deals can be better at the end of the year, but November is a little too early to get end of the year deals. The main advantage to waiting is more dealers should have allocations and the LCI would have occurred. Again, if you really want the car I don't see a huge advantage to waiting that long.

5- Get the least amount of miles you realistically think you will lose. BMWFS makes it easy to buy miles any time before lease end. If you purchase more than 120 days from lease end, you will have the option of paying for the miles in increments. Within 120 days it must be in a lump sum form. Miles are at a discounted rate of $0.16/mile. More details can be found in the above mentioned link. But it basically you can make it simple and buy the excess miles you need the day before lease end at $0.16
You already have a lease where you started with too many miles and a lower than necessary residual.

6- Use a lease calculator such as leasematic (iPhone app) or this formula below. Too many variables based on the deal you would get for an M3 vs M4 to tell you the monthly payment difference. Also the residual is different for these two vehicles.

If the residual value is "R" ; R = MSRP x Residual (%)
The Capital cost (sales price) is "C"
Money Factor is "MF"
Down payment is "D"
Lease term is "N" ; number of months (ie 36 or 39)
Monthly depreciation fee "MD" = (C-D-R)/N
Monthly lease fee "ML" = MF * (C-D+R)
Then the monthly lease payment= MD +ML + tax
Drive off : The upfront money including all other fees ( bank fee , acquisition fee, license fee, etc) + first month payment

7- MSDs are part of the down payment they just reduce your MF and you get them back at the end of the lease. No way to know the max discount, but as a general rule 5% is about the best you will get in CA.

8- Internet salesman or email is your best bet. Don't waste time on the phone. It just turns into a song and dance about come down to the dealer to get a price. Also by corresponding via email. There is a written paper trail to the agreed upon deal. The phone turns into a he said she said debate if things go awry.

Hope this gets you the info you were looking for.

[danniexi]

would like someone's opinion on this deal. first time lease here.

MSRP: 76875
Cap: 72987
MF: .00081 (after max 7 MSD)
Residual: 49968.75 (65% for April)

Tax/fees/etc/first month up front around $4K.

comes out to around 739/month for 10,000mi/36 months.

its the last allocation and the dealer is hesitant to budge the cap cost. its hard to find any other dealer either to negotiate (no one has come close) or don't have an allocation.

thoughts? tbh, not sure if i want to wait until this fall/winter. much rather have the car for the summer.

[Whttiger25]

Originally Posted by danniexi

would like someone's opinion on this deal. first time lease here.

MSRP: 76875
Cap: 72987
MF: .00081 (after max 7 MSD)
Residual: 49968.75 (65% for April)

Tax/fees/etc/first month up front around $4K.

comes out to around 739/month for 10,000mi/36 months.

its the last allocation and the dealer is hesitant to budge the cap cost. its hard to find any other dealer either to negotiate (no one has come close) or don't have an allocation.

thoughts? tbh, not sure if i want to wait until this fall/winter. much rather have the car for the summer.

From what I've read 5% off MSRP is pretty much what you want to aim for so sounds like you are good...7% would be overly hopeful

[saxon]

Originally Posted by Whttiger25

From what I've read 5% off MSRP is pretty much what you want to aim for so sounds like you are good...7% would be overly hopeful

Right now with the allocations any discount is a good discount

[Mav007]

Originally Posted by OneRib

Mav007
Whoa, that is a mountain of info you are trying to get. I'll do the best that I can.
First, let me say this. The M4 vert will be easier to obtain until 2016 models roll out because of limited M3 allocations. Dealers have some ability to change an M4 slot to M3, but I don't know if they can always do this.

Now on to the questions
1- Yes, I would take advantage of the pull ahead program if you want the car as quickly as possible. It's a difficult question to answer, but one advantage of the program is it gives you more leverage and flexibility because you will not be pressed for time as you might be if your current lease were running out. As a counter argument, I will say that many times BMWFS will extend leases if need be or you could drive a beater for a time while you look or wait for the M car to arrive.

2- Yes BMW will reimburse you for unused miles, but the rate is extremely low and won't amount to much. Only in the setting of pre-purchased miles are you reimbursed in any significant way. This is why many advocate not leasing extra miles young are unlikely to use.

3- There is no way to know this because its dependent on the current MF. Right now you need 7 MSDs to get to 0.00080 (down from 0.00129). You can't do more than 7 MSDs and if the money factor is raised or you do ED (which raises MF by 0.0003) you won't be able to get to 0.00081. I would get that number out of your head and just remember to get the lowest rate (aka buy rate) that BMWFS has when you order. Then decide if you want to get the MSDs. If you are going to purchase MSDs, always try to max out with 7 as that gives you the biggest benefit and buying less still exposes you to all the shortcomings for a small amount of savings.
MSDs are calculated by running the numbers through at the reduced MF (depending on how many MSDs you want to buy) then rounding up to the nearest $50 mark. Then that number is multiplied by the number of MSDs desired.
My first post on this thread goes over this
http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1084623

4- For an M3 you may have to wait. Deals can be better at the end of the year, but November is a little too early to get end of the year deals. The main advantage to waiting is more dealers should have allocations and the LCI would have occurred. Again, if you really want the car I don't see a huge advantage to waiting that long.

5- Get the least amount of miles you realistically think you will lose. BMWFS makes it easy to buy miles any time before lease end. If you purchase more than 120 days from lease end, you will have the option of paying for the miles in increments. Within 120 days it must be in a lump sum form. Miles are at a discounted rate of $0.16/mile. More details can be found in the above mentioned link. But it basically you can make it simple and buy the excess miles you need the day before lease end at $0.16
You already have a lease where you started with too many miles and a lower than necessary residual.

6- Use a lease calculator such as leasematic (iPhone app) or this formula below. Too many variables based on the deal you would get for an M3 vs M4 to tell you the monthly payment difference. Also the residual is different for these two vehicles.

If the residual value is "R" ; R = MSRP x Residual (%)
The Capital cost (sales price) is "C"
Money Factor is "MF"
Down payment is "D"
Lease term is "N" ; number of months (ie 36 or 39)
Monthly depreciation fee "MD" = (C-D-R)/N
Monthly lease fee "ML" = MF * (C-D+R)
Then the monthly lease payment= MD +ML + tax
Drive off : The upfront money including all other fees ( bank fee , acquisition fee, license fee, etc) + first month payment

7- MSDs are part of the down payment they just reduce your MF and you get them back at the end of the lease. No way to know the max discount, but as a general rule 5% is about the best you will get in CA.

8- Internet salesman or email is your best bet. Don't waste time on the phone. It just turns into a song and dance about come down to the dealer to get a price. Also by corresponding via email. There is a written paper trail to the agreed upon deal. The phone turns into a he said she said debate if things go awry.

Hope this gets you the info you were looking for.

OneRib,
I can't thank you ( with folded hands) Sir for taking out the time & writing back. Much appreciated. I have now the picture and how to go about it.
Will shoot emails & see whats in the plate to offer. Want to keep my M4 Verti payment @ 900 $.
Hope I'm able to help/guide some M3/M4 lease enthusiast one day.

[boss2k]

When will the lease rates and residuals be available for 2016's?

[04cobra]

Where are you guys seeing the residual is 65% for an M3 for 36 months? My dealer is saying its 62% and he even looked it up in the system. I said, its 62% for the M4 but M3 is 65% and he is not seeing it.

Is there something I can point him too?

[jasnh]

Originally Posted by 04cobra

Where are you guys seeing the residual is 65% for an M3 for 36 months? My dealer is saying its 62% and he even looked it up in the system. I said, its 62% for the M4 but M3 is 65% and he is not seeing it.

Is there something I can point him too?

Posted by GOLFFRR on page 59 of this thread...

April rates 36month

M3
15k 62%
12k 64%
10k 65%

M4 Coupe and Vert
15k 59%
12k 61%
10k 62%

MF .0013 US
MF .0016 ED