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      01-07-2020, 11:26 PM   #67
blockdoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEROK View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by blockdoc View Post
Also keep in mind that TIS flags these as ones that need to be replaced each time they are removed, since they are only designed to be torqued once (bolt stretch).

I have no idea how critical this is...but just FYI

I have chosen to replace each time I remove. But I am kind of fanatical like that lol
I really appreciate this level of detail.

Are the bolts #19 in the diagram below (qty 4)? I'm really curious for those that have had the spark plug change done at dealership, whether they listed these as part of the bill of materials let alone actually had them replaced per factory manual.
The picture you posted is not clear to me.


https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_9769

It would mean parts 9,10 and 17

TECHNICALLY, anytime the carbon fiber brace is removed, the bolts are supposed to be replaced also.

Probably overkill. Just throwing it out there. One solution might be FCP Euro and their lifetime replacement.
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      03-05-2020, 03:00 PM   #68
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      03-07-2020, 08:56 PM   #69
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Thank you for the write-up. Just did this job today.

Couple of notes: I used an E10, E12, and E14 sockets, didn't need an E11. The large bolts holding the aluminum brace are 16mm, and the bolts holding the carbon fiber brace were mostly 13mm, with a couple of 10mm thrown in.

I used OEM plugs, gapped to 0.020", and torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

Takes about 2 hours if you're moving quickly. Twice that if you're not.
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      03-17-2020, 09:47 PM   #70
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Super helpful write-up, thanks! Took a quick pic of every bolt removed and tool used, thought it might be helpful to see.
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      04-07-2020, 08:09 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickz80 View Post
Thank you for the write-up. Just did this job today.

Couple of notes: I used an E10, E12, and E14 sockets, didn't need an E11. The large bolts holding the aluminum brace are 16mm, and the bolts holding the carbon fiber brace were mostly 13mm, with a couple of 10mm thrown in.

I used OEM plugs, gapped to 0.020", and torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

Takes about 2 hours if you're moving quickly. Twice that if you're not.
Just curious...I see you gapped to 0.020. Are you stock or tuned?
I'm stock, did mine a week ago gapped to 0.028.
Thx
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      04-10-2020, 08:40 PM   #72
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Has anyone completed there spark plug change and had some oil on the threads? Is it normal or is that the valve cover gasket going?
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      04-10-2020, 08:46 PM   #73
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I should say, I’m not going through oil, no smoke, no misfires, no oil burning smell either.
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      07-17-2020, 07:30 PM   #74
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Thanks for the writeup. I did all this and the car ran great for a week and then all of a sudden I got p0056, p0136 and p0141. I cleared codes, reset dme, uninstalled bootmod3 and still wont clear. No idea what's going on. Did i disconnect something and forget to reconnect it? I don't think so. Maybe I have terrible luck and both 02 sensors in the rear went bad?
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      08-02-2020, 06:11 PM   #75
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Can anyone confirm stock gap and what BMW service manual calls for?

When my stock plugs were pulled they were mostly 0.028

The new oem bosch plugs were pre gapped to 0.8mm which is around 0.0315

Another guy in my town said his were 0.022 stock.

If I had bmw dealership do the service..what does the manual call for?
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      08-03-2020, 02:01 AM   #76
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o2 sensors

btw I don't think this was related to the spark plug change. I had both after cat O2 sensors replaced and check engine light is gone. Puzzling
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      09-19-2020, 06:11 PM   #77
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Thank you OP. I replaced my coil packs looking at this and a youtube video. I was able to replace all 6 coil packs without removing aluminum strut brace. Very small space for cylinder #1 though. Perhaps spark plug can do done in such way too if one has a right tool. The weather strip didn't need to be removed either.
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      09-20-2020, 11:01 AM   #78
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Throwing away all these fasteners is garbage...... just drop some 242 loc-tite on them and re-torque
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      09-20-2020, 01:50 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsepower_and_hounds View Post
Throwing away all these fasteners is garbage...... just drop some 242 loc-tite on them and re-torque
That’s not the point of replacing those fasteners.
Most people probably don’t replace them anyway though tbh. I doubt indy’s even replace them as part of the service.
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      09-20-2020, 02:33 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BzsBimmer View Post
That’s not the point of replacing those fasteners.
Most people probably don’t replace them anyway though tbh. I doubt indy’s even replace them as part of the service.
I know its not the point.... just commenting cuz many believe the BMW directions are gospel. I understand the theory behind it but i feel it is overkill. Just my opinion
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      09-22-2020, 08:59 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rantlers View Post
Super helpful write-up, thanks! Took a quick pic of every bolt removed and tool used, thought it might be helpful to see.
Way off subject, but how does that flooring hold up? I have been contemplating doing this.
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      06-27-2021, 09:40 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMD29 View Post
I'm not positive but I think the middle brace bolts in the third picture need to be replaced.
BMW-31106854219 gets replaced 2X.
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      07-27-2021, 08:19 PM   #83
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For those of you that did this, did anyone replace their original aluminum bolts? I looked it up on ecs and the ones for the aluminum + cf strut braces and the ones that hold the charge pipes it's roughly $150 alone. Ngk going for $90. Seems pretty reasonable for a diy as the dealer was asking me $1000 and quote 5 hours labor
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      07-28-2021, 06:58 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddevils7 View Post
For those of you that did this, did anyone replace their original aluminum bolts? I looked it up on ecs and the ones for the aluminum + cf strut braces and the ones that hold the charge pipes it's roughly $150 alone. Ngk going for $90. Seems pretty reasonable for a diy as the dealer was asking me $1000 and quote 5 hours labor
I’ve only replaced those twice in the several times I’ve removed the brace, etc. in the many years I’ve owned this car. Maybe once every 5 times if I had to venture a guess?
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      07-28-2021, 02:03 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BzsBimmer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddevils7 View Post
For those of you that did this, did anyone replace their original aluminum bolts? I looked it up on ecs and the ones for the aluminum + cf strut braces and the ones that hold the charge pipes it's roughly $150 alone. Ngk going for $90. Seems pretty reasonable for a diy as the dealer was asking me $1000 and quote 5 hours labor
I’ve only replaced those twice in the several times I’ve removed the brace, etc. in the many years I’ve owned this car. Maybe once every 5 times if I had to venture a guess?
I don't think the dealer has ever replaced them in the 50k miles I've had now. there's even a black sticker next to the emissions one under the hood that says to replace all aluminum bolts. I'll do it this time when I change the plugs myself
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      09-26-2021, 07:48 PM   #86
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Torque specs. I Need help.
I know the PDF is posted on page 1 or 2, however I can't figure out which bolt should get what torque. Please help. I see 56, 28, and another number. but which gets what?

Last edited by harjot.hans; 09-27-2021 at 12:36 AM..
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      09-28-2021, 08:02 AM   #87
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I've had my CF brace out a hundred times and the aluminum brace a bunch. Never replaced bolts, just re-torque properly without any "extra turn" if the manual wanted it. Here's a pic I found here with most torque specs, CF brace is up top.
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      09-28-2021, 12:59 PM   #88
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Thank you @topjimmy for the torques!!! Big time reply!
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