Rotors Keep Warping!!! HELP!!

[Racer20]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

The shop I am going to builds Porsche race cars and initially thought the issue was caused by pad deposits. But no matter what I do the vibration doesn't go away. If I drive around for like a week just going super easy on it no change, if I go out and try to re-bed the brakes no change. The vibration will not go away.

If it is deposits I'm not sure why they won't go away, but equally as important I'm not understanding why it is happening. I have had 6 cars in the past and drive exactly the same and have never had this issue. I know people that drive their M3's harder than me and know people that drive their M3's like grandmas and neither group have had this issue.

Either your pads are overheating, your rotors are overheating, or your pads are getting uneven pressure applied.

Sticking caliper pistons, leaking caliper seals, stuck parking brake, accidentally dragging your foot on the brake without realizing it, not fully disengaging the parking brake, etc.

Start looking for clues. Check all four rotor temps after driving the car normally for a few minutes. Are they scorching hot? Are the wheels themselves hot?

Another consideration is that the ESC and understeer mitigation systems use the brakes. Those systems don't always flash the light at you when the activate, and you can't always feel it. If a sensor is doing something odd or you changed something or your driving style screws with those systems, they could be overheating the brakes without you even realizing they are working. I.e., aggressive and sloppy driving can eat brakes even if you never even touch them. This is *much* harder on brakes than properly driving within the limit when using proper threshold braking technique.

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by Racer20

Either your pads are overheating, your rotors are overheating, or your pads are getting uneven pressure applied.

Sticking caliper pistons, leaking caliper seals, stuck parking brake, accidentally dragging your foot on the brake without realizing it, not fully disengaging the parking brake, etc.

Start looking for clues. Check all four rotor temps after driving the car normally for a few minutes. Are they scorching hot? Are the wheels themselves hot?

Another consideration is that the ESC and understeer mitigation systems use the brakes. Those systems don't always flash the light at you when the activate, and you can't always feel it. If a sensor is doing something odd or you changed something or your driving style screws with those systems, they could be overheating the brakes without you even realizing they are working. I.e., aggressive and sloppy driving can eat brakes even if you never even touch them. This is *much* harder on brakes than properly driving within the limit when using proper threshold braking technique.

Thank you this is helpful info! I'm just really not pushing the car very hard which is why I'm confused by this. I have driven all of my previous cars in the same fashion and never had any problems. I have a Macan that I drive just as hard and never had a single problem with the brakes.

[MrSmartyPants]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

Thank you this is helpful info! I'm just really not pushing the car very hard which is why I'm confused by this. I have driven all of my previous cars in the same fashion and never had any problems. I have a Macan that I drive just as hard and never had a single problem with the brakes.

He's right, you need to look into other variables.

I've got 47k on original OEM parts with no issues or brake judder of any kind. Predicting another 20-30k before I need to replace (assuming no track events or autox).

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by MrSmartyPants

He's right, you need to look into other variables.

I've got 47k on original OEM parts with no issues or brake judder of any kind. Predicting another 20-30k before I need to replace (assuming no track events or autox).

That's why I posted lol because wanted to look at different variables. All of the feedback has been super helpful and when I bring it back to the shop I plan to share all of it.

[JoshFND]

Mine at 43k are starting the warping process. Went in for a oil change and mentioned to the dealer I have a slight vibration when starting to break.. Fronts are warped even though pads are fine. would it be best to replace with OEM, or is there an alternative?

[Modified_f80]

I am having the same issue as you. only 5k miles. Dealer told me the vibration on steering when braking was from the warped rotors. They replaced it no so long ago and I feel the steering wheel started to vibrate a little. I have not pushed my car since the change. I will check and follow up when I actually feel the vibrations. This really sucks.

As racer20 mentioned it can be numerous things, but for fact I don't drag my foot on the brakes. I don't drive aggressively. Hmm.. driving me crazy

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by Modified_f80

I am having the same issue as you. only 5k miles. Dealer told me the vibration on steering when braking was from the warped rotors. They replaced it no so long ago and I feel the steering wheel started to vibrate a little. I have not pushed my car since the change. I will check and follow up when I actually feel the vibrations. This really sucks.

As racer20 mentioned it can be numerous things, but for fact I don't drag my foot on the brakes. I don't drive aggressively. Hmm.. driving me crazy

Yup. Please let me know if you hear anything new on a solution

[MannyM5]

Just got my car back from my race shop and my Rotors are confirmed warped... again.
They were brand new with ferodo ds2500's and 2 light DE's on them. I never stayed out longer than 15min per session, DSC always fully off, I am specifically easy on the brakes and always cool them down properly. My shop inspected the caliper pistons and they are all in perfect condition. 30k miles on my car.

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by MannyM5

Just got my car back from my race shop and my Rotors are confirmed warped... again.
They were brand new with ferodo ds2500's and 2 light DE's on them. I never stayed out longer than 15min per session, I am specifically easy on the brakes and always cool them down properly. My shop inspected the caliper pistons and they are all in perfect condition. 30k miles on my car.

Thanks for keeping the forum updated! So they are just going to replace with no other solution?

[michaelalex17]

I know a couple people said it might be driving technique, but the most recent time mine warped was during stop and go traffic.

[MannyM5]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

Thanks for keeping the forum updated! So they are just going to replace with no other solution?

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

I know a couple people said it might be driving technique, but the most recent time mine warped was during stop and go traffic.

Yes I had new rotors put on with stock pads and will likely stop tracking this car. I may sell the car next season and go back to a p-car.. we'll see.

I am pretty confident it is not my driving technique either. I an an experienced racer and instructor and am very familiar with managing brakes.

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by MannyM5

Yes I had new rotors put on with stock pads and will likely stop tracking this car. I may sell the car next season and go back to a p-car.. we'll see.

I am pretty confident it is not my driving technique either. I an an experienced racer and instructor and am very familiar with managing brakes.

Damn that sucks. Keep me posted if it happens again. I am thinking of selling too, can't enjoy the car if constantly worried about driving it.

[Spun Crankhub]

Bummer you’re dealing with this. Ive only had my car 6 months, so I cant contribute to the conversation, but now going to keep an eye on my brake consumption.

[3MOS]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

Getting probably like 500 miles on a set.

This stands out to me and makes me think it is either your bedding process being more intense than intended (i.e., creating uneven pad deposits, perhaps minor but that build up over time) or a mechanical issue. I'm guessing traction control isn't at fault since your rear brakes aren't having the same issue.

I saw you used DS2500s as well - I've never used them, but I believe they have similar mu/heat tolerance to the stock pads, so maybe not as telling as you might think.

For what it's worth, in normal everyday driving for me it took over a thousand miles before my trackday pad deposits were no longer causing brake judder. It was really irritating for that 1,000+ miles but it confirmed that my rotors were not the issue.

From what I recall from another thread, clearing pad deposits requires lots of (relatively) cold brake pad applications while avoiding putting enough heat into the pads/rotors to simply smear the deposits around or build them up even further.

Good luck!

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by 3MOS

This stands out to me and makes me think it is either your bedding process being more intense than intended (i.e., creating uneven pad deposits, perhaps minor but that build up over time) or a mechanical issue. I'm guessing traction control isn't at fault since your rear brakes aren't having the same issue.

I saw you used DS2500s as well - I've never used them, but I believe they have similar mu/heat tolerance to the stock pads, so maybe not as telling as you might think.

For what it's worth, in normal everyday driving for me it took over a thousand miles before my trackday pad deposits were no longer causing brake judder. It was really irritating for that 1,000+ miles but it confirmed that my rotors were not the issue.

From what I recall from another thread, clearing pad deposits requires lots of (relatively) cold brake pad applications while avoiding putting enough heat into the pads/rotors to simply smear the deposits around or build them up even further.

Good luck!

Thank you! Of my 4 sets of rotors only 2 have been warped using the Ferrado pads, the first two were using OEM pads. It's probably more like 1k miles per set. I have tried bedding and I have tried taking it easy, either way after like 1k miles or so I start getting vibration. I have no vibration immediately following the bedding procedure.

The problem seems to happen after coming to a full stop after driving somewhat hard maybe like at 6/10. Nothing crazy, but that seems to be when I notice the vibration begins each time. There is no visible pad imprint on the rotors but that seems to be when it begins. No matter how I drive it will not go away. Have tried re bedding, have tried driving around town, etc nothing makes the vibration go away.

[EricVR4]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

Thank you! Of my 4 sets of rotors only 2 have been warped using the Ferrado pads, the first two were using OEM pads. It's probably more like 1k miles per set. I have tried bedding and I have tried taking it easy, either way after like 1k miles or so I start getting vibration. I have no vibration immediately following the bedding procedure.

The problem seems to happen after coming to a full stop after driving somewhat hard maybe like at 6/10. Nothing crazy, but that seems to be when I notice the vibration begins each time. There is no visible pad imprint on the rotors but that seems to be when it begins. No matter how I drive it will not go away. Have tried re bedding, have tried driving around town, etc nothing makes the vibration go away.

Bumping an old thread, did this ever get figured out with your car?

I picked my car up back in September with 17k miles and after around 1k miles the brakes started shuddering under braking (I've never tracked it and don't drive it hard). Luckily I have a maintenance plan so they swapped the front rotors and pads because the fronts were warped. It was good for around 1k miles then the issue repeated itself. So they swapped the fronts again because the rotors had warped a second time. This time I've made it around 1,700 miles but the vibration is starting to come back again, so I'm making an appointment for this Friday.

It usually only happens with speeds above 40mph. It's getting really old though, and I'm sure eventually BMW will say it's on me to fix despite having the maintenance plan. Trying to avoid that.

[michaelalex17]

Unfortunately not and my rotors are currently warped but haven't dealt with it since car has been in storage all winter. Please let me know what your dealer says when you bring it!

[stevehifi]

dont run the stock pads. they are so soft they gunk up the caliper pistons/seals and create uneven pad force. ive had a couple times where the caliper seized while braking hard.running at the track makes it even worse.
Also make sure you properly bed in the brakes after you install a new set of rotorz/pads. Ten runs up to 60mph-0mph minimum.
im running stoptech pads with castrol SRF, SS lines, no issues.

[whitstap]

Rotors don’t warp it’s uneven pad deposits usually caused by overheating street pads at the track, pad incompatibility (fairly uncommon it’s when you use different pads on the same rotors), or not properly bedding-in street pads if they’ve never seen high heat (track) and you have to make an emergency stop... I will say I tracked my f80 on stock pads and they got uneven wear resulting in bad vibrations that eventually cleaned themselves up and went away after a week or so of normal daily driving... I’ve had good luck switching b/w hawk dtc70 race pads and stock pads on the same rotors w/out any incompatibility issues or vibrations but I have seen issues with Pagid RS29’s before... certain race pads (hawk blue for example) are good for cleaning up rotors that have deposits when used at low temps and slow speeds - when doing this you will start to hear them squeal again as the previous layer is cleaned off and as they become smooth again the squeal becomes constant - hope this helps good luck

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by michaelalex17

The curse of the 2015 Yas Marina Blue strikes again!

The only other thing that has an effect on rotor runout is the wheel hub bearing. Have you checked that for runout too?

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by whitstap

Rotors don’t warp it’s uneven pad deposits usually caused by overheating street pads at the track, pad incompatibility (fairly uncommon it’s when you use different pads on the same rotors), or not properly bedding-in street pads if they’ve never seen high heat (track) and you have to make an emergency stop... I will say I tracked my f80 on stock pads and they got uneven wear resulting in bad vibrations that eventually cleaned themselves up and went away after a week or so of normal daily driving... I’ve had good luck switching b/w hawk dtc70 race pads and stock pads on the same rotors w/out any incompatibility issues or vibrations but I have seen issues with Pagid RS29’s before... certain race pads (hawk blue for example) are good for cleaning up rotors that have deposits when used at low temps and slow speeds - when doing this you will start to hear them squeal again as the previous layer is cleaned off and as they become smooth again the squeal becomes constant - hope this helps good luck

I have been told that it could be pad deposits, but the thing is no matter how much driving I do the vibration doesn't go away. Whether I try re bedding or driving normal for like two weeks, the steering wheel continues to vibrate under braking until I replace the rotors and pads again.

[michaelalex17]

Originally Posted by hC1001

The only other thing that has an effect on rotor runout is the wheel hub bearing. Have you checked that for runout too?

Was told the hub runout is normal but will check this again, maybe I should just order new hubs regardless?

This the right part?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...i/31207857506/