Mo Reviews
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Today's Posts

Go Back   BMW M3 and BMW M4 Forum > BMW F80 M3 / F82 M4 Technical Topics > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      08-08-2022, 09:17 PM   #1
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Last week I put a full set of EBC RedStuff pads on to gave them a try. I was tired of the constant filth put down by the stock Textar pads, and was hoping for a little better bite during street use. I had allowed a couple days of city stop-and-go for their break in coating to wear off, and did not do a bedding process. I was going to Mpact roll racing at Pocono on Sunday. That would bed them in, and add a minor track scenario test session. Overall I am impressed!

Their abrasive "Brake In" coating did a great job of removing previous brake bedding (blue tint) from my rotors, and polished them up nice and shiny. Brake bite was extra hard while the coating was working, which lasted about two days, and I heard maybe one tiny squeak.

Driving around town and to the race event I noticed good firm bite, but nothing too firm or hard. I heard no noise and felt no vibration. Up at Pocono we did 1/3mi rolls topping out about 160MPH and coming up to Turn 1. On my first run I bedded in the brakes well using a series of hard 4sec pulses, and stopping power started firm and faded a little around the sixth pulse. I was paying attention to the turn and watching for fade, so I didn't see what speed I dropped to. On subsequent runs using basic brake pulsing (2sec pumps) by foot gave me good stopping power with no fade, bringing me down from 160 to 80 quickly.

Now for the "stupid test" to see where fade happens…no brake pulsing…just hold the brake and let 'em heat (they're ceramic pads). At the end of a 160 run I just kept the brakes applied hard for like 6-8sec, and there was the fade. I still had stopping power but the change was obvious. After a sec or two off-brake the stopping power came back up. These are definitely not track pads for any sort of competition, but they'll get you around for fun.

Again, for street, highway or rolls these things rock!


And after the day of racing, the next morning I noticed only a light gray dust, not the normal thick brown coating that Tex"Tar" leaves. The gray dust washed right off with a hose spray of water. You can't beat that.
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 4
      08-08-2022, 11:50 PM   #2
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Glad to see another happy EBC user…
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 06:32 AM   #3
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Glad to see another happy EBC user…
Yellows or Blues?
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 1
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 09:03 AM   #4
therealkenc
Captain
therealkenc's Avatar
United_States
1001
Rep
786
Posts

Drives: Oxide Grey iX M60
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Francisco

iTrader: (2)

Cool report, thanks 😎

Would you say they'd hold up nicely to hard canyon/twisties driving (nothing beyond 100 mph)?

I'm thinking of replacing my brakes in about 10k miles or so (even though idrive shows more than 100k miles of life - I've heard that those aren't accurate?) and thanks to hellokitty I'm looking at the Yellowstuffs. My main goals are less brake dust and no less braking performance than OEM. The Yellowstuffs seem to meet the 2nd goal, while they generate light grey dust as opposed to the brown/grey OEM dust, so they are probably a decent fit for my needs. I'm wondering if the Redstuffs would be a downgrade from OEM on braking performance?
Appreciate 2
TopJimmy5449.50
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 10:26 AM   #5
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
Glad to see another happy EBC user…
Yellows or Blues?
Yellows are good for less dust and daily driving street use, blue is good for higher endurance high temp runs like long canyon runs.
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 10:27 AM   #6
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
Cool report, thanks 😎

Would you say they'd hold up nicely to hard canyon/twisties driving (nothing beyond 100 mph)?

I'm thinking of replacing my brakes in about 10k miles or so (even though idrive shows more than 100k miles of life - I've heard that those aren't accurate?) and thanks to hellokitty I'm looking at the Yellowstuffs. My main goals are less brake dust and no less braking performance than OEM. The Yellowstuffs seem to meet the 2nd goal, while they generate light grey dust as opposed to the brown/grey OEM dust, so they are probably a decent fit for my needs. I'm wondering if the Redstuffs would be a downgrade from OEM on braking performance?
Redstuff is R90 approved so it should be in the same league as OEM with much less dust. Jimmy can chime in on how he thinks the red compares. I've only ran yellow and blue.
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 2
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 10:42 AM   #7
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
Cool report, thanks 😎

Would you say they'd hold up nicely to hard canyon/twisties driving (nothing beyond 100 mph)?

I'm thinking of replacing my brakes in about 10k miles or so (even though idrive shows more than 100k miles of life - I've heard that those aren't accurate?) and thanks to hellokitty I'm looking at the Yellowstuffs. My main goals are less brake dust and no less braking performance than OEM. The Yellowstuffs seem to meet the 2nd goal, while they generate light grey dust as opposed to the brown/grey OEM dust, so they are probably a decent fit for my needs. I'm wondering if the Redstuffs would be a downgrade from OEM on braking performance?
RedStuff feel to be an upgrade in braking performance. I've tried both with some very hard straight line braking…even hard enough to bring the rear around a little on the Textars. The RedStuff kept good braking front and rear on the extra hard stomps. Reds should be really good for some canyon fun, as long as you're not carving like you're going for a time slip.

As for factory wear, the stockers do last about 100K miles of regular wife/mom daily driving. My current F82 had hardly worn the stock pads or rotors after 24K mi (when I switched to EBC). My previous F80 was about 1/3 worn through pads AND rotors after 65K. My BMW mechanic buddy said the stock pads and rotors are supposed to wear down together. Metallic pads eat rotors faster, and ceramic much slower.
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 2
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 11:38 AM   #8
FaRKle!
Brigadier General
4007
Rep
3,535
Posts

Drives: 328d Wagon, M2 Comp, i4 eD35
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bay Area, CA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Reds will be fine for "canyon driving." I've never seen someone canyon drive like they drive on the track with max speed/braking before each corner. I've managed to fade Reds pretty dangerously doing repeated high speed/max brake stops repeatedly over the course of 4mi while doing a hard bed in, but that was a very extreme case and have never come close to that in fun driving.

I'm at 62,000mi on my Reds right now, plenty of life left.
__________________
-328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links)
-My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information

Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
Appreciate 4
      08-09-2022, 12:00 PM   #9
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Reds will be fine for "canyon driving." I've never seen someone canyon drive like they drive on the track with max speed/braking before each corner. I've managed to fade Reds pretty dangerously doing repeated high speed/max brake stops repeatedly over the course of 4mi while doing a hard bed in, but that was a very extreme case and have never come close to that in fun driving.

I'm at 62,000mi on my Reds right now, plenty of life left.
I managed to fade yellows in the canyons, but this was at night and by myself driving a bit like a loon lol
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 2
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 12:53 PM   #10
therealkenc
Captain
therealkenc's Avatar
United_States
1001
Rep
786
Posts

Drives: Oxide Grey iX M60
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Francisco

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
Cool report, thanks 😎

Would you say they'd hold up nicely to hard canyon/twisties driving (nothing beyond 100 mph)?

I'm thinking of replacing my brakes in about 10k miles or so (even though idrive shows more than 100k miles of life - I've heard that those aren't accurate?) and thanks to hellokitty I'm looking at the Yellowstuffs. My main goals are less brake dust and no less braking performance than OEM. The Yellowstuffs seem to meet the 2nd goal, while they generate light grey dust as opposed to the brown/grey OEM dust, so they are probably a decent fit for my needs. I'm wondering if the Redstuffs would be a downgrade from OEM on braking performance?
RedStuff feel to be an upgrade in braking performance. I've tried both with some very hard straight line braking…even hard enough to bring the rear around a little on the Textars. The RedStuff kept good braking front and rear on the extra hard stomps. Reds should be really good for some canyon fun, as long as you're not carving like you're going for a time slip.

As for factory wear, the stockers do last about 100K miles of regular wife/mom daily driving. My current F82 had hardly worn the stock pads or rotors after 24K mi (when I switched to EBC). My previous F80 was about 1/3 worn through pads AND rotors after 65K. My BMW mechanic buddy said the stock pads and rotors are supposed to wear down together. Metallic pads eat rotors faster, and ceramic much slower.
Hm, if the Reds actually provide better braking performance than the OEMs, then it's a no-brainer for me! The OEMs pretty much provide all the braking power I need on the street, freeway, and backroads/canyons.

I'm at 57k miles on my stock pads, and idrive is still telling me that I have 119k miles left on the rear pads (makes me a 'lil suspicious of it). Can't remember what the front pads life is but it's in the region of high 10ks, so maybe total life of 100k miles is about right. I wish I needn't replace the rotors but a lip seems to have formed, so I should probably do them together with the brake pads.
Appreciate 2
TopJimmy5449.50
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 01:08 PM   #11
therealkenc
Captain
therealkenc's Avatar
United_States
1001
Rep
786
Posts

Drives: Oxide Grey iX M60
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Francisco

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Reds will be fine for "canyon driving." I've never seen someone canyon drive like they drive on the track with max speed/braking before each corner. I've managed to fade Reds pretty dangerously doing repeated high speed/max brake stops repeatedly over the course of 4mi while doing a hard bed in, but that was a very extreme case and have never come close to that in fun driving.

I'm at 62,000mi on my Reds right now, plenty of life left.
I probably need to get some lessons on proper canyon/backroad driving, but for now I usually push to the max speed that the length of road allows in between corners, though I don't think I've gone beyond 100mph and I'm more often accelerating/decelerating to and from 20-80mph, between 2nd-5th gear. My runs tend to last 12-15 miles per stretch, so that's 24-30 miles round-trip. Hopefully the Reds will hold up to this sort of driving haha
Appreciate 2
TopJimmy5449.50
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 01:26 PM   #12
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

therealkenc
If FaRKle! is running these we've got another good sign. That's like Yoda nodding at your light saber.

If you're just zipping to the next curve but not braking late and hard, and the Textars held up, then Reds should be perfect. If you were digging hard into every curve for long twisty runs, then I'd pick a more track-ish pad.

As for the lip on the rotors, EBC are the exact same shape as Textar so you can skip it. The new pads sat in the stock-made grooves perfectly.
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 4
FaRKle!4006.50
spidy512491.50
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 01:35 PM   #13
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I managed to fade yellows in the canyons, but this was at night and by myself driving a bit like a loon lol
But when you faded Yellows you were really pushing the carved corners on long twisties, right? Our buddy above wants zippy "canyon driving" but isn't ripping the curves like someone carving a canyon (maintain high revs, DSC off, feeling for traction slip, looking for marbles).
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 2
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 01:39 PM   #14
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellokitty View Post
I managed to fade yellows in the canyons, but this was at night and by myself driving a bit like a loon lol
But when you faded Yellows you were really pushing the carved corners on long twisties, right? Our buddy above wants zippy "canyon driving" but isn't ripping the curves like someone carving a canyon (maintain high revs, DSC off, feeling for traction slip, looking for marbles).
Yeah the stretch of canyon was 12 miles so definitely hooning it for a long period of time.
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 01:45 PM   #15
FaRKle!
Brigadier General
4007
Rep
3,535
Posts

Drives: 328d Wagon, M2 Comp, i4 eD35
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Bay Area, CA

iTrader: (4)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
I probably need to get some lessons on proper canyon/backroad driving, but for now I usually push to the max speed that the length of road allows in between corners, though I don't think I've gone beyond 100mph and I'm more often accelerating/decelerating to and from 20-80mph, between 2nd-5th gear. My runs tend to last 12-15 miles per stretch, so that's 24-30 miles round-trip. Hopefully the Reds will hold up to this sort of driving haha
In track driving we're threshold braking all of the braking zones (unless just a light drag is required to just settle/stabilize the car). Reds won't hold up to that if your threshold braking zones are within 1/4mi of each other.

My guess is you're nowhere near that though since you mentioned going between 2-5th gear and only up to about 80mph, since 3rd gear alone will get you above 100. I imagine having time to build up to 5th gear means your braking zones are far enough apart for reds on your drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
therealkenc
If you're just zipping to the next curve but not braking late and hard, and the Textars held up, then Reds should be perfect. If you were digging hard into every curve for long twisty runs, then I'd pick a more track-ish pad.
Completely agree.
__________________
-328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links)
-My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information

Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
Appreciate 4
TopJimmy5449.50
hellokitty2894.00
      08-09-2022, 03:36 PM   #16
therealkenc
Captain
therealkenc's Avatar
United_States
1001
Rep
786
Posts

Drives: Oxide Grey iX M60
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Francisco

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
therealkenc
If FaRKle! is running these we've got another good sign. That's like Yoda nodding at your light saber.

If you're just zipping to the next curve but not braking late and hard, and the Textars held up, then Reds should be perfect. If you were digging hard into every curve for long twisty runs, then I'd pick a more track-ish pad.

As for the lip on the rotors, EBC are the exact same shape as Textar so you can skip it. The new pads sat in the stock-made grooves perfectly.
I think I should go with the Reds, then. Awesome tip re: the rotors too, thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
But when you faded Yellows you were really pushing the carved corners on long twisties, right? Our buddy above wants zippy "canyon driving" but isn't ripping the curves like someone carving a canyon (maintain high revs, DSC off, feeling for traction slip, looking for marbles).
I'm an ignoramus - what's looking for marbles in this context? Is that the same as traction slip?

And maybe I don't know what canyon "carving" actually is, but I do try to brake as late as I can before the corners, though I'm sure I do so in a highly uneducated fashion. I really need to go to driving/track school and get up to speed on these things.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
In track driving we're threshold braking all of the braking zones (unless just a light drag is required to just settle/stabilize the car). Reds won't hold up to that if your threshold braking zones are within 1/4mi of each other.

My guess is you're nowhere near that though since you mentioned going between 2-5th gear and only up to about 80mph, since 3rd gear alone will get you above 100. I imagine having time to build up to 5th gear means your braking zones are far enough apart for reds on your drive.
Thanks for elaborating. I brake as late as I can, but that's probably before the car's threshold, so I'd say I don't do a whole lot of threshold braking. I switch up to 5th gear just to be conservative, but yes I think the sections where I get close to 100mph tend to be pretty long stretches of little to no braking.

You guys are awesome for sharing your wealth of knowledge
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 04:51 PM   #17
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
I'm an ignoramus - what's looking for marbles in this context?
Marbles are pebbles or grit on the roadway that typically get pushed to the sides as people drive. If you go a little wide taking a corner and "get into the marbles" you slide sideways.
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 3
      08-09-2022, 05:38 PM   #18
therealkenc
Captain
therealkenc's Avatar
United_States
1001
Rep
786
Posts

Drives: Oxide Grey iX M60
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: San Francisco

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealkenc View Post
I'm an ignoramus - what's looking for marbles in this context?
Marbles are pebbles or grit on the roadway that typically get pushed to the sides as people drive. If you go a little wide taking a corner and "get into the marbles" you slide sideways.
Lol ok no marble hunting here. Gracias, again!
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 06:08 PM   #19
Jockey
Brigadier General
Jockey's Avatar
3445
Rep
4,981
Posts

Drives: 992 C4S
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Park City, UT

iTrader: (1)

Well you've got my attention.

I went on a spirited canyon drive this weekend and while the OEMs held up fine, the dust is just out of control. Finally pushed me over the edge.

What is the proper part number for the Redstuff?
Appreciate 1
TopJimmy5449.50
      08-09-2022, 06:40 PM   #20
TopJimmy
Major General
TopJimmy's Avatar
United_States
5450
Rep
5,143
Posts

Drives: 2023 M3 Comp xDrive
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Chester County, PA

iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jockey View Post
Well you've got my attention.

I went on a spirited canyon drive this weekend and while the OEMs held up fine, the dust is just out of control. Finally pushed me over the edge.

What is the proper part number for the Redstuff?
DP32130C front pair
DP32133C rear pair
Attached Images
 
__________________
'18 F80 Base 6MT | '19 F82 Exec DCT | '18 F82 Comp Exec DCT | '23 G80cx
Appreciate 4
hellokitty2894.00
Jockey3445.00
JAI///M3528.00
      08-10-2022, 12:15 AM   #21
hellokitty
Brigadier General
hellokitty's Avatar
United_States
2894
Rep
3,726
Posts

Drives: '17 M3 ZCP DCT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern California

iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TopJimmy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jockey View Post
Well you've got my attention.

I went on a spirited canyon drive this weekend and while the OEMs held up fine, the dust is just out of control. Finally pushed me over the edge.

What is the proper part number for the Redstuff?
DP32130C front pair
DP32133C rear pair
I see the R90 approval on the label so these should be no worse than OEM based on that alone
__________________
2017 F80 M3 ZCP / AA GESI DPs / Akrapovic Evo / BBS FI-R 19" / Bend Calibration ECUTEK Flex Fuel | Bilstein B16 DDC + CS EDC / BMC Filters / BMS OCC / CSF HE / ESS CP / Nitto NT555R2 / PD Crank Hub / SPL Suspension / Uniden R7 / Wagner Top Mount IC

2021 Mini GP3 / BMC Filters / BM3 / Cary Jordan E30 / Wagner IC / Remus Race
Appreciate 1
      09-05-2022, 08:27 PM   #22
bmwgvsc
Private First Class
7
Rep
105
Posts

Drives: BMW M4
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Upstate SC

iTrader: (0)

Quick question… anyone have a suggestion on where to purchase yellow stuff pads for ‘15 F83? Also I’m assuming pads are the same for coupe as they are for vert without ceramic option?
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:13 PM.




f80post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST