Project Focal JL Audio full install in a 2016 BMW F30/F80 Harmon Kardon OEM

[335icandy]

Project Focal JL Audio full install in a 2016 BMW F30/F80 Harmon Kardon OEM

Like the title says, here's what I am planning and hoping for experts in the forum to help out with planning and advice from your experience. I was okay with the Harman Kardon OEM audio up until now. It's always been a weak spot for my ears and musical preferences. I listen to everything and have a long standing informed history in the home audiophile world. Dabbled in car audio when I was younger but out of the loop now.



I currently have:

Bass section:

1. JL Audio 10W7 in the redeye JL high output box. (Plan for custom sealed enclosure to integrate with F30 side trunk for space savings).

2. JL Audio 500/1 v2 Subwoofer amp.

In car speakers:

1. Two sets of Focal K2 Power Elite ES100K 4" components for Front and Rear Stage.

https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/c...-kits/es-100-k

2. Two 8 inch Focal iSub BMW 2 underseat woofers


3. Matching 4" K2 Power Mid range/Tweeter and crossover for center channel


4. JL Audio XD800/8 v2 8 channel amplifier to run all interior speakers


5. Spare JL Audio sealed 8W3v3 for space saving longer cruises/ and spare sub when the 10W7 is overkill.

6. All higher quality 4 guage power wiring and kit. Or should I go 0 gauge?


7. Battery is 5+ years old, should it be replaced now, and if so, for what?



The question is, what interface preamp and DSP should I purchase to plan the ultimate SQL / Audiophile car stereo? What do I need to make this all work? I believe my car uses MOST fiber optic connector... I'd like to keep my factory idrive headunit, steering wheel controls, voice activation, nav, and parking distance control beeping, Bluetooth phone and music, etc.



What are your thoughts on the The mObridge DA-G2.Pro MOST25 pre-amplifier vs Helix vs Audison?



[URL unfurl="true"]https://mobridge.us/product/da-g2-pro-most25/[/URL]



Do I require a special harness for my HK stereo or is there another better way to wire everything up through MOST connector/optical/toslink?



Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Budget M3]

Excellent component choices, but I fear you are in for a boatload of integration and tuning challenges getting output from the stock head unit and HK to “talk” to everything. I was planning something similar until I came across the Integral Audio DSP Ultra package. While it is expensive, too, the HK and DSP integration and tuning has already been done for our exact cars. The IA components are also audiophile quality and it uses your stock HK amp and rear speakers for rear fill duty (note: I’ve found the HK are just fine for this low output purpose).

IA uses an Analog Devices DSP and ARC Audio amp, along with front replacement speakers and subs that are nothing short of remarkable. When all is said and done, the cost is comparable to what you have planned, but without the time and effort to do all the engineering and tuning yourself. Kevin@IntegralAudio really knows audiophile quality ICE and is great to work with. Even if you’ve already bought your components, try giving him a call to see if he can offer a solution to help.

[335icandy]

Originally Posted by Budget M3

Excellent component choices, but I fear you are in for a boatload of integration and tuning challenges getting output from the stock head unit and HK to “talk” to everything. I was planning something similar until I came across the Integral Audio DSP Ultra package. While it is expensive, too, the HK and DSP integration and tuning has already been done for our exact cars. The IA components are also audiophile quality and it uses your stock HK amp and rear speakers for rear fill duty (note: I’ve found the HK are just fine for this low output purpose).

IA uses an Analog Devices DSP and ARC Audio amp, along with front replacement speakers and subs that are nothing short of remarkable. When all is said and done, the cost is comparable to what you have planned, but without the time and effort to do all the engineering and tuning yourself. Kevin@IntegralAudio really knows audiophile quality ICE and is great to work with. Even if you’ve already bought your components, try giving him a call to see if he can offer a solution to help.

Thank you! Appreciate the recommendation. And I hear you. This will be a big install, with the help of some local experts and installers in my area, i want to build a reference level, competition ready car stereo. I've always come close but never pulled the trigger and actually went this far, so I'd like to explore and finish one of my dream projects with this install... the components are already bought and paid for, so it just a matter of finding the right DSP and MOST adapter/Preamp to run this system... or ultimately I could always code the HK to HIFI and run all new cabling throughout the car and go that route and bypass the MOST system... I'm still not sure what is best.

[kchan]

I also have the Integral Audio Ultra DSP system, I loved it!

Budget M3 already summarized what I was going to say, definitely reach out to Kevin even though you are already set.

For me personally, I considered finding a local shop to do an all out system, but consider all the components you are considering, the DSP, it can easily be $5-6K for a decent system. For me the simplicity and quality of the Integral Audio system is very valuable for me. Can't imagine needing any more bass without some damage to my ears...

I don't know how much value you will find with the mid channel and the rear fill. The IA system doesn't upgrade the rear speakers and I typically just fade it all to the front. Everything is custom design and keep all the factory functions. For me I just don't have the time to mess with anything else.

Sorry I don't have much input, it seems that the MoBridge and Helix/Audison stuff is the gold standard, but don't know the details of specific models/specs.

I think 0 gauge is overkill, since the wiring length from battery to amp is short, and your total output is ~ 1.1KW (75Wx8 + 500W) which is about 80-90AMPs. Of course bigger always better, may check with the professional... For battery, mine is almost 4 yrs and plan to continue on just the stock Li battery, I think our battery should be able to handle the audio. Also, I didn't go all out and do any sound deadening/lowering the noise floor, for my casual listen it's more than plenty, but if you go all out for competition, you may consider it. Our car isn't the quietest to begin with.

Good luck on whatever you end up doing and please share it once it's completed =)

[Budget M3]

Originally Posted by 335icandy

Thank you! Appreciate the recommendation. And I hear you. This will be a big install, with the help of some local experts and installers in my area, i want to build a reference level, competition ready car stereo. I've always come close but never pulled the trigger and actually went this far, so I'd like to explore and finish one of my dream projects with this install... the components are already bought and paid for, so it just a matter of finding the right DSP and MOST adapter/Preamp to run this system... or ultimately I could always code the HK to HIFI and run all new cabling throughout the car and go that route and bypass the MOST system... I'm still not sure what is best.

Understood. If you’ve already gone this far, then you HAVE to finish what you started! Eliminating the MOST and tricking the head unit into thinking HiFi are two totally different approaches, each with their pros and cons. If it were me, I’d stick with MOST and get an adapter as you said you were seeking in your first post.

I don’t think there is really much difference between the MOST adapters since it’s only job is to provide signal. The DSP will be the key. Again, though, I don’t think there is much difference between the units you are considering. The tuning itself will be the magic that gets you the reference quality sound you are seeking.

Good luck and please be sure to let us know how it goes!