Placing M4 on jack stands?

[drreid3]

I'm thinking of permanently mounting the adapters into the jacking points with a screw like this guy at 1:15, so that they're available anytime the car needs to be lifted in my garage or at a shop.

[icegrill]

Originally Posted by drreid3

I'm thinking of permanently mounting the adapters into the jacking points with a screw like this guy at 1:15, so that they're available anytime the car needs to be lifted in my garage or at a shop.

Kinda janky, but whatever. It seems like he'd use drywall screws somewhere on that car🤨

[MasterYous]

Just to contribute my 2c to this - I managed to get the entire front up on two jackstands at the designated jack points. If you don’t have the long-reach racing floor jack, it still can be safely done with a regular-reach low profile 3-ton floor jack, two rubber jack pad adapters, and two quality jack stands. I buy my stuff from Harbor Freight like many enthusiasts.

0) Prep: Unlock the car/disable the alarm. Chock the back wheels! You never know.
1) Jack one of the two front sides up at the Front jack point using the adapter and floor jack. Get it up so your front tire is about 4 to 6 inches off the ground.
2) slide a thick piece of lumber under the front tire. Make sure it is flush with the ground and can support the weight. Parabolic shapes are generally stronger than rectangular ones - there's a photo below of something you can build out of some split trunks and strong lag screws, but you can use any lumber that is thick and flat, too.
3) lower the car and remove your jack. Lower slowly and make sure your wood can support the weight. The car should now have one side about 4-6 inches higher than the other.
4) with the clearance you have now, you can slide your regular-length jack in from the front side just in front of the front wheel, and over to the central jacking point on the skid pad which others have photographed on this thread. You won't have full clearance to fully raise the jack's handle with every stroke, but you can work deliberately and slowly with smaller strokes.
5) Jack slowly with short strokes, and the car will be lifted evenly from both sides - jack until both sides have enough clearance to slide your jack stands under. You don't need a jack adapter while jacking from this point.
6) Keep the stands at their minimum height, and slide your jack stands under the front jack points on either side, making sure you use the jack adapters and/or a thick set of towels. My rubber BMS jack adapters were up to the job, even on "claw"-style jack stands.
7) Lower the car slowly onto the jack adapter/jack stands, making sure the adapters mate with the jack point slots.
8) Depending on the job you are doing, you may not need any more height. If so you are done.
(optional) 9) If you DO need more height, move your jack in front of the car, as you will now have plenty of clearance to jack from the front center of the car. Realign the jack with the front central jacking point, and lift the car higher.
(optional) 10) Raise your jack stand height and repeat step 7.

Some photos are below. The car was perfectly stable in this position all day for the CBC work I was doing.

[IVM3]

Thanks for sharing, but I wouldn't feel comfortable having my car on that lumber stacked like that, even for just a minute. I would recommend using some 2x12 or 4x4 blocks instead.

[MasterYous]

Thanks for your input. Same steps apply regardless of the material you use. Yes you can use 4x4 blocks if you prefer.

In the photo the lumber is held together with bolts and screws and is extremely strong. It’s not going to move. Also you’re not doing any work under the car with the wood supporting any weight. You aren’t done till the car is up on jackstands.