Track forum general chit chat

[dawei213]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Yes, this is the way to do it for a dual duty car

Haven't i sent you my alignment sheet for this?

Would you be able to send your alignment sheet to me as well? Or post it for the general public?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by dawei213

Would you be able to send your alignment sheet to me as well? Or post it for the general public?

I can't post a Word file here. But of course, send your email via PM and I'm happy to share

The document should be printed and taken to your alignment shop, the instructions are straightforward

[NYG]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

It sounds really easy. Why don't I see anyone else in the paddock adjusting camber. I'm not undermining just trying to understand any cons to your approach. thx

I watched jfritz27 do this at NJMP - I kind of regret not doing it myself. It really wasn't bad and he marked out the position.

[D_SheerDrivingPleasure]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

I can't post a Word file here. But of course, send your email via PM and I'm happy to share

The document should be printed and taken to your alignment shop, the instructions are straightforward

Alas the secret formula to the unattainable 2.06 WGI lap.

I even tried running a light fuel tank to save weight...that failed miserably.

[jmg]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Alas the secret formula to the unattainable 2.06 WGI lap.

I even tried running a light fuel tank to save weight...that failed miserably.

Years ago at BMW M School driving their M2, I got scolded over the radio by the instructors for stopping on the track. The car went limp, died and wouldn't turn back on. Turned out it was out of fuel. Why the fuel warning didn't come on I'll never know. Oh well, at least it wasn't in my car.

Since then I've been wary of having less than 1/4 tank on the track.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by D_SheerDrivingPleasure

Alas the secret formula to the unattainable 2.06 WGI lap.

I even tried running a light fuel tank to save weight...that failed miserably.

Unfortunately F8X M3s require always having more than half a tank in it. Any less and you'll fuel starve. It doesn't happen to everyone due to pace, but keep going faster and faster and it's a guarantee

[sc_tr0jan_m3]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

Unfortunately F8X M3s require always having more than half a tank in it. Any less and you'll fuel starve. It doesn't happen to everyone due to pace, but keep going faster and faster and it's a guarantee

Sadly that's been the case since e46 days prolly even before that.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by sc_tr0jan_m3

Sadly that's been the case since e46 days prolly even before that.

The saddest part is they completely solved this for the E9X generation. You can run that baby to one gallon and it was perfect

THEN they went and fucked up the F8X fueling!! Goddammit!!

[dawei213]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

The saddest part is they completely solved this for the E9X generation. You can run that baby to one gallon and it was perfect

THEN they went and fucked up the F8X fueling!! Goddammit!!

Hmmm, e9x doesn't have this fuel starvation issue, also support for after market harnesses, V8....so you're saying to buy an e9x for the track?!? lol

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by dawei213

Hmmm, e9x doesn't have this fuel starvation issue, also support for after market harnesses, V8....so you're saying to buy an e9x for the track?!? lol

LOL

E9X is great for the track, but F8X is faster. It's nice to not have 991 GT3s horizon you in every straight.

There will be a solution for the fuel starvation issue, it's in the works

[swagon]

They look good! Event next week and then hopefully two next month! Still slow as per the caliper paint but that's okay.

[dawei213]

Originally Posted by swagon

They look good! Event next week and then hopefully two next month! Still slow as per the caliper paint but that's okay.

What pads are you running with those discs?

[swagon]

Originally Posted by dawei213

What pads are you running with those discs?

Front Ferodo DS1.11
Rear Ferodo DS2500 because the 1.11s are still in transit from Italy

Been satisfied with the front 1.11 pads on stock rotors, too, and have also been using them on the street with no issues

[uncle ben]

Originally Posted by DRLane

Nope you won't see them as the slightest bit of material will cause the vibration. This exact scenario happened to me on my first track weekend and I was told it was warped rotors by my instructor which wasn't true. It's a common misdiagnosis.

The flex hone is cheap and easy. I'm 99.9% confident this will solve your issue. Going forward for track days get a track pad or if you're going to double duty consider a Ferodo 2500.

When you come into the paddock try not to touch the brakes. Pull into your spot and let the car come to rest in neutral then cut the engine. Don't use the parking brake or touch the brake pedal as the goal is keep the pads from clapping down and then sitting on a hot rotor.

Technically the parking brake is inside the rotor hat and isn't really an issue. But I think keeping hot metal from resting on hot metal is better practice. Just put the car in gear.

As pace picks up or you get sticker tires then explore BBK or at the very least dedicated track pads.

Well I used a flex hone and completely cleaned off my front rotors, and while the vibration has improved, it is still there. Also I noticed when my wheel was off, that when I spun the front disc, it would hang up on the brake pad at one spot on the disc, almost like the disc was warped. Pretty bummed that this didn’t fix things. Also have some ferodo 1:11 front and rear pads arriving on Monday. I figure I’ll install them and see if it helps with the vibration. If not it’s looking like a ap front big brake kit for me, as I don’t want to be replacing warped rotors after every couple of track days.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

Well I used a flex hone and completely cleaned off my front rotors, and while the vibration has improved, it is still there. Also I noticed when my wheel was off, that when I spun the front disc, it would hang up on the brake pad at one spot on the disc, almost like the disc was warped. Pretty bummed that this didn't fix things. Also have some ferodo 1:11 front and rear pads arriving on Monday. I figure I'll install them and see if it helps with the vibration. If not it's looking like a ap front big brake kit for me, as I don't want to be replacing warped rotors after every couple of track days.

I have AP 9668/9449 and previously ST 60/40 and when I spin the rotor, it comes in contact with some pad on both sets. I don't think that means the rotor is warped.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

Well I used a flex hone and completely cleaned off my front rotors, and while the vibration has improved, it is still there. Also I noticed when my wheel was off, that when I spun the front disc, it would hang up on the brake pad at one spot on the disc, almost like the disc was warped. Pretty bummed that this didn't fix things. Also have some ferodo 1:11 front and rear pads arriving on Monday. I figure I'll install them and see if it helps with the vibration. If not it's looking like a ap front big brake kit for me, as I don't want to be replacing warped rotors after every couple of track days.

Can you post a picture of one of your rotors post the honing?

[uncle ben]

I’ll see if I can take a picture tonight. But I can assure you that I removed all pad residue on the rotor and got it down to the bare metal. The front rotors had a very thick layer of pad material which looked black and shiney, but I was able to hone it all away and get to the bright silver disc.

I was thinking of having the front discs machined. That way they are completely clean and straight.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

I'll see if I can take a picture tonight. But I can assure you that I removed all pad residue on the rotor and got it down to the bare metal. The front rotors had a very thick layer of pad material which looked black and shiney, but I was able to hone it all away and get to the bright silver disc.

I was thinking of having the front discs machined. That way they are completely clean and straight.

If a shops is able and willing I'd go that route. The AP kit is awesome but might be overkill investment if you're only planning on a couple days a year. That said, they generally hold their resale value…

Good luck man!

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by DRLane

If a shops is able and willing I'd go that route. The AP kit is awesome but might be overkill investment if you're only planning on a couple days a year. That said, they generally hold their resale value…

Good luck man!

remember any race kit should not be used in winter/salt, and that they absolutely suck for street use. The 'antirattle kit' does very very little.

Also, in terms of resale:
AP BBK, price paid: 4300
AP BBK, sold after 8 days of use: under 3000 after listing for a year. This is not 'great resale'

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

remember any race kit should not be used in winter/salt, and that they absolutely suck for street use. The 'antirattle kit' does very very little.

Also, in terms of resale:
AP BBK, price paid: 4300
AP BBK, sold after 8 days of use: under 3000 after listing for a year. This is not 'great resale'

I don't use rattle kit and I don't notice any noise. Granted my car makes a lot of other clunks and noises already and it's not a street car. But I'll drive to / from track, shops, etc.

I think recovering anything more than 50% after track use even if only 8 days is a solid return.

Further, the rotors in your ad looked like they had some heat in them and it's a rear kit for which you were asking close to retail.

Lastly, your negative opinions of AP are well documented and likely didn't help in instilling confidence in buying your used kit.

I guess I'm suggesting I don't think yours was well positioned for a quick sale. 😬

[uncle ben]

I figure even if the disc isn’t warped, it still won’t hurt to have it turned/machined. Then at least I can eliminate it as the cause of the vibration.

[uncle ben]

My car is only summer driven (weekends) and I plan on 6-10 track days a season. I know that a big brake kit is overkill, but I do not want to have issues with warping discs after track days. I would probably be happy with just pads and fluid, and that was my plan, but if I have continued vibration issues, I want an alternative solution. After searching “brake vibration” I seen that some people have replaced their discs multiple times only
to have the problem return.