Another engine oil thread. Castrol Edge/Pennzoil/ Liqui Moly?

[ericold]

i read that you don't really like FE oils..but how about this one?

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...2_20221128.pdf

hths is 3.5 so its ok for a FE oil.and pour point -42 shows good base stock for a 30?
considering of what i've learned has pretty good specs : mb 229.52 and bmw ll04 and vw 505 01 (VW 505 01 specification requires outstanding detergent/dispersant power, high oil film resistance and better viscosity increase resistance (due to soot) )

which is better vw spec:505 01 or 504/507 ?

and compared to motul x-clean+ 5-30 that you suggested me ,which one would you prefer and why?

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...0_20230214.pdf

[ClampThurst]

Originally Posted by ericold

i read that you don't really like FE oils..but how about this one?

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...2_20221128.pdf

hths is 3.5 so its ok for a FE oil.and pour point -42 shows good base stock for a 30?
considering of what i've learned has pretty good specs : mb 229.52 and bmw ll04 and vw 505 01 (VW 505 01 specification requires outstanding detergent/dispersant power, high oil film resistance and better viscosity increase resistance (due to soot) )

which is better vw spec:505 01 or 504/507 ?

and compared to motul x-clean+ 5-30 that you suggested me ,which one would you prefer and why?

https://azupim01.motul.com/media/mot...0_20230214.pdf

Are you a Motel Sales rep by chance?

[ericold]

even though i don't reaaly know what Motel is then again , edycol should be a Mobil rep.
so the answer is no and i am not a fanboy oil brand either. edycol mention some oils in this thread and most of the times i think has mentioned some castrol, mobil and motul as the 3 brand oils he appreciates more.
from these 3 brands only motul has some good ones with bmw approvals ,yet.
the other 2 brands are on the way to the market.

[M's ///M]

There appears to be a great wealth of information in here.

Without having to go through it all, though I likely will at some point, would it be safe to assume the Motul 8100 X-cess gen 2 5w40 is a solid choice for a 2018 F80 that is lightly driven during the week with an occasional track cross thrown in?

I've run Amsoil in my Subaru and have had some pretty positive uoa results, but I have not come across any recommendations for it in the F80 platform.

Any thoughts?

[spidy512]

Originally Posted by M's ///M

There appears to be a great wealth of information in here.

Without having to go through it all, though I likely will at some point, would it be safe to assume the Motul 8100 X-cess gen 2 5w40 is a solid choice for a 2018 F80 that is lightly driven during the week with an occasional track cross thrown in?

I've run Amsoil in my Subaru and have had some pretty positive uoa results, but I have not come across any recommendations for it in the F80 platform.

Any thoughts?

Agreed. After reading this whole thing twice, I went with 8100 X-cess G2. I do not track the car, but we get some crazy hot summers these days in the Bay Area, so the 5w40 works great. I run it year round now #becausecali

Amsoil is good stuff. But I prefer the Motul.

josh

[ericold]

Originally Posted by M's ///M

There appears to be a great wealth of information in here.

Without having to go through it all, though I likely will at some point, would it be safe to assume the Motul 8100 X-cess gen 2 5w40 is a solid choice for a 2018 F80 that is lightly driven during the week with an occasional track cross thrown in?

I've run Amsoil in my Subaru and have had some pretty positive uoa results, but I have not come across any recommendations for it in the F80 platform.

Any thoughts?

from what i learned here, you get the right choice with motul.

but not with amsoil, doesn't have any bmw approval and experts here say no approval ,no suitable for your car for some reason. because there is a reason its not approved. first thing first for wright oil is bmw approval and amsoil hasn't any. stick to that motul!

[ericold]

Originally Posted by spidy512

Agreed. After reading this whole thing twice, I went with 8100 X-cess G2. I do not track the car, but we get some crazy hot summers these days in the Bay Area, so the 5w40 works great. I run it year round now #becausecali

Amsoil is good stuff. But I prefer the Motul.

josh

ambient temp has nothing to do with oil temp. you have a cooler for that. use is what matters for choosing a viscosity. if you do not track the car you can try a thinner oil.

[spidy512]

Originally Posted by ericold

ambient temp has nothing to do with oil temp. you have a cooler for that. use is what matters for choosing a viscosity. if you do not track the car you can try a thinner oil.

I drive hard. Like an ahole. Especiallly on the hiway. And I am wounded from owning 12 Subaru's. So yeah, I may not be doing it right, but in my mind I am.

josh

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by M's ///M

There appears to be a great wealth of information in here.

Without having to go through it all, though I likely will at some point, would it be safe to assume the Motul 8100 X-cess gen 2 5w40 is a solid choice for a 2018 F80 that is lightly driven during the week with an occasional track cross thrown in?

I've run Amsoil in my Subaru and have had some pretty positive uoa results, but I have not come across any recommendations for it in the F80 platform.

Any thoughts?

Yes, X-cess is good for that use.

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by spidy512

I am wounded from owning 12 Subaru's. So yeah, I may not be doing it right, but in my mind I am.

josh

[aswy6]

Anyone using Motul 300V here for mixed daily and track use? Any should or should not advice?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Anyone using Motul 300V here for mixed daily and track use? Any should or should not advice?

Avoid 300V if you are running E85 (even low concentrations like E20). The esters in 300V will quickly oxidize due to ethanol fuel dilution and you WILL need to change the oil at 1,000 miles, otherwise you'll get high engine wear due to the increased TAN levels. Ask me how I know... LOL

Just stick with Xcess Gen 2. Nothing is gained with using 300V unless you love to change your oil every month.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by aswy6

Anyone using Motul 300V here for mixed daily and track use? Any should or should not advice?

If you do any sort of daily use then don’t use 300V. I used it in my racecar but it was extreme use only.

Daily/Track gets Motul 8100 X-cess Gen2.

Daily-only gets BMW TPT.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

If you do any sort of daily use then don’t use 300V. I used it in my racecar but it was extreme use only.

Daily/Track gets Motul 8100 X-cess Gen2.

Daily-only gets BMW TPT.

If you use TPT get the 5W30 non FE version, the FE version is optimized for fuel economy and is purposefully made thinner so it lower parastic losses, but this sacrifices protection. So get LL01 not LL01 FE.

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by F87source

If you use TPT get the 5W30 non FE version, the FE version is optimized for fuel economy and is purposefully made thinner so it lower parastic losses, but this sacrifices protection. So get LL01 not LL01 FE.

I would say if it’s “street only”…even hard street or a few rolls here and there…to use BMW TPT LL-01FE. Another good FE is Motul Specific LL-01FE.

Don’t be concerned with the 0W- or 5W- since that is the winter/cold spec. At cold start I prefer the 0W- as it circulates fast. Soon as either of these two warm up they become 30 weight oils.

If you do any “start and drive right away” (without waiting a minute or two for warm-up), or if you use the engine auto start/stop feature at red lights, then you’re really depending on the oil’s additive package for its protection. The TPT has really good additives to protect from daily driver use.

Another benefit of 30 weight oil is less drag on the engine’s internal spinning components. On track this costs power and time. One big reason Edycol recommends the 5W-40 Xcess is it has that higher shear protection, while being “thin for 40 weight”. It’s closer to a 30 weight in the viscosity category, while giving that extra shear protection for track use.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

I would say if it’s “street only”…even hard street or a few rolls here and there…to use BMW TPT LL-01FE. Another good FE is Motul Specific LL-01FE.

Don’t be concerned with the 0W- or 5W- since that is the winter/cold spec. At cold start I prefer the 0W- as it circulates fast. Soon as either of these two warm up they become 30 weight oils.

If you do any “start and drive right away” (without waiting a minute or two for warm-up), or if you use the engine auto start/stop feature at red lights, then you’re really depending on the oil’s additive package for its protection. The TPT has really good additives to protect from daily driver use.

Another benefit of 30 weight oil is less drag on the engine’s internal spinning components. On track this costs power and time. One big reason Edycol recommends the 5W-40 Xcess is it has that higher shear protection, while being “thin for 40 weight”. It’s closer to a 30 weight in the viscosity category, while giving that extra shear protection for track use.

Yup I know, I've talked alot to edy as well.

I wouldn't go with FE because you're still compromising protection, you don't necessarily need LL01 as long as you've got mb229.5 and Porsche a40. So if it's a daily and you want something thinner, I'd go with castrol edge 0w30 and 0w40, they're very high in paos so it has a low kv100 but has a very good sheer strength. Additives on this would be absolutely excellent as well, and I'm certain this would would demish tpt.

[ericold]

even i talkied to eddy a lot as well, i have one more question.

he told me that what matters if you do short trips, the key is ,KV40 to be a low number and combined with a not so high hths. how low kv40 number and how high hths would be appropriate without loosing power,causing more drag and so on?
i am asking because fuel dilution is there in my engine and from what i have learned so far , a 40 grade would be more usefull , a thicker oil, but how thcik 40?

the one he uses xcess gen 1 5-40 for example is a kv100= 13,5 which is from a thin 40 side,thats good ,has kv40=75 which is low, considering that a 30 grade is about 69. but hths is 3.8 when a good 30 is 3.6 tops.

while i am sure is a good oil for me for my use as for in kv100 and kv40 i don't know if a 3.8 hths will be much of a difference on drag or for worst flow at warm up meaning will dramatically be more difficult to warm up and the oil not to get the right temperature fast in lets say the 10km short trips that i make many times a day?

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by ericold

even i talkied to eddy a lot as well, i have one more question.

he told me that what matters if you do short trips, the key is ,KV40 to be a low number and combined with a not so high hths. how low kv40 number and how high hths would be appropriate without loosing power,causing more drag and so on?
i am asking because fuel dilution is there in my engine and from what i have learned so far , a 40 grade would be more usefull , a thicker oil, but how thcik 40?

the one he uses xcess gen 1 5-40 for example is a kv100= 13,5 which is from a thin 40 side,thats good ,has kv40=75 which is low, considering that a 30 grade is about 69. but hths is 3.8 when a good 30 is 3.6 tops.

while i am sure is a good oil for me for my use as for in kv100 and kv40 i don't know if a 3.8 hths will be much of a difference on drag or for worst flow at warm up meaning will dramatically be more difficult to warm up and the oil not to get the right temperature fast in lets say the 10km short trips that i make many times a day?

It won't matter for you. 10 DAILY short trips will definitely get your oil temp to where it needs to be.

Now if we are talking about 1 short trip every day for 10 days, that's when it will become an issue.

[mike082802]

Originally Posted by hellokitty

Avoid 300V if you are running E85 (even low concentrations like E20). The esters in 300V will quickly oxidize due to ethanol fuel dilution and you WILL need to change the oil at 1,000 miles, otherwise you'll get high engine wear due to the increased TAN levels. Ask me how I know... LOL

Just stick with Xcess Gen 2. Nothing is gained with using 300V unless you love to change your oil every month.

I don't know how long ago it was you switched from using 300v for mixed track and street but I know motul changed their formula and claims it is compatible with bio fuels. i called motul and they confirmed this but cannot find it on their website or documents anywhere.
https://www.motorist.sg/article/1319...300v-motor-oil

i also know more than a few guys running it for 20-30k hard street and track miles in various B58/S55/S65 with the b58/s55 guys running e85 all year long and consensus is 3,000 mile oci. i am torn as fcp stopped carrying the old motul sport 5w-40 so i need to find a new oil to take advantage of their lifetime returns policy in my street/track daily. Motul has 8100 power 5w-40 which replaced the sport but fcp does not have it listed yet on their site.

[hellokitty]

Originally Posted by mike082802

I don't know how long ago it was you switched from using 300v for mixed track and street but I know motul changed their formula and claims it is compatible with bio fuels. i called motul and they confirmed this but cannot find it on their website or documents anywhere.
https://www.motorist.sg/article/1319...300v-motor-oil

i also know more than a few guys running it for 20-30k hard street and track miles in various B58/S55/S65 with the b58/s55 guys running e85 all year long and consensus is 3,000 mile oci. i am torn as fcp stopped carrying the old motul sport 5w-40 so i need to find a new oil to take advantage of their lifetime returns policy in my street/track daily. Motul has 8100 power 5w-40 which replaced the sport but fcp does not have it listed yet on their site.

This is my UOA on the new 300V at 2,500 miles running on E85x As you can see, TAN shot up rapidly as well as iron and copper.

Switched back to Gen 2 and wear is back to normal levels and TAN normalized. Blackstone recommended max 4k OCI intervals on Gen 2 with E85, but I change it at 3k to be safe due to fuel dilution.

[Joy15779]

Originally Posted by edycol

The question is: what are oil related issues?
1. What is vehicle exploitation? How many miles per year? Daily? Dropping kids to school? Taking it to ski? To beach? Road trips? Etc.
2. Oil related issues are not like hitting pothole and messing up thrust bushing. Oil related issues usually mean issues that develop over longer period of time: higher CBU deposits, shorter gasket lifespan (BMW within its approval specifications have this requirement), oxidation requirements etc.
3. Most cars that are tuned in such a way are not seeing exploitation like daily driving vehicles which actually is more strenuous on oil and engines.
Street oils in general have much harder (for the lack of better word) job than for example racing oils. Many people get stuck on racing or some boutique oils not understanding that those oils have very narrow job: make sure engine survives race.
However, street oils have to make sure engine survives xxxxxx miles of daily grind, very often not reaching operating temperature , hot starts, cold starts, city grind, and occasional track. For example Porsche team uses M1 0W40 in Daytona and Sebring, together with soccer moms dropping kids in their Macan.
That is accomplishment. Oil testing (which I did) doesn’t constitute of: ok we don’t have “oil related issues.” It constitutes of: ok this is catalytic converter pollution, what is expected lifespan of it? Etc.

WOW dear Edycol, you are a master. I make 10k km per year, driving fast. changing oil every 9999 km. Environment is clean.
Again Royal Purple XPR, Pakelo Racing or Bardhal XTC.
good eve

[ericold]

but i think my friend that if i am not mistaken, edycol suggests not to use all these racing oils for street use even if driving fast. an oil like motul xcess 5-40 gen2 or m10-40 the new one with bmw approval is what he suggests.

guys speaking of M1,0-40 and its cleaning properties on one side and then the very high sulphur which create a lot of deposits through its burn ,i really don't understand this contradiction if there is one.

you say that it cleans but on the other hand ,due to high sulphur it creates a lot of deposits ,so why is it so good? how it cleans when it contributes to deposits?

i would appreciate an explanation !