F80 M3 Number Of Issues

[f80mthirty]

New Bmw here lol. I had my f80 m3 for a few months and have developed a few questions. If any of you guys can help and save me a trip to the dealer i will appreciate it.

First i’m on tuned stage 2 Bm3 OTS map
Mod list:
catless downpipes
Midpipe
Front mount intake

My first issue is i had a rough idle for a couple days and i feel a loss of power. I had NGK two step colder plugs installed gapped to .21 and it felt like a misfire but i was throwing zero codes. I did reset adaptations on bootmod3 and it seemed to go away i’ll wait it out.

Second for some reason i have a midpipe and catless downpipes but my cold start is quieter than stock? When my car was completely stock my cold start was louder i’m thinking maybe an exhaust leak or something? I do get a slight rattle on start and i can like barely hear my car besides the rumbling under the driver floor board.
Next for fun i checked my coolant just because and the one for intercooler and the one for turbos i think and they are basically empty. Then again no codes coming up and no overheating.

In addition , wierd sounds coming from the diff from a stop and go. Like a thumping sound coming from the rear of the car

Last but not least, when i’m in third gear doing low speeds my car like shakes or jerks before it downshifts to second.

I try to ignore these things but they tend to get annoying. If anyone can help me with any of these issues i’ll appreciate it. I be reading the forums but this is my first post lol.

[f80mthirty]

Oh not to mention my ghost driver window. My driver window out of all windows does not go down! Replaced motor and regulator, checked all the fuses, checked the switch. Nothing! To put in perspective my car is tinted 5% all around and windshield not fun when pulled over and window doesn’t go down lol

[f80mthirty]

Kinda fun posting my experience with this car but i just remembered, front windshield cracked from having defroster on low for 15 seconds. Was also 30 degrees outside. 2,800$ dealer quoted job

[hC1001]

You should probably find an independant shop to take a look at your car. Go with safelite for the front glass, maybe your insurance can cover it.

How exactly did u check the window parts? Multimeter?

The intercooler fill tank is the one closest to the front windshield. Fill it back up to the half moon and monitor it. Keep refilling for two weeks, if its still draining you have a leak somewhere. Do the same for the engine coolant tank too, only open when car is cold. Both intercooler n engine coolant tanks are known to leak at the seams when warmed up. Check for dry coolant stains but something else could also develop leaks like radiators or hoses/hose fittings.

Have you scanned the car with ista for errors?

[f80mthirty]

Originally Posted by hC1001

You should probably find an independant shop to take a look at your car. Go with safelite for the front glass, maybe your insurance can cover it.

How exactly did u check the window parts? Multimeter?

The intercooler fill tank is the one closest to the front windshield. Fill it back up to the half moon and monitor it. Keep refilling for two weeks, if its still draining you have a leak somewhere. Do the same for the engine coolant tank too, only open when car is cold. Both intercooler n engine coolant tanks are known to leak at the seams when warmed up. Check for dry coolant stains but something else could also develop leaks like radiators or hoses/hose fittings.

Have you scanned the car with ista for errors?

Yes I scanned the car and I am getting zero faults. I drove the car today i feel like the car is at a loss of power.

[f80mthirty]

Originally Posted by hC1001

You should probably find an independant shop to take a look at your car. Go with safelite for the front glass, maybe your insurance can cover it.

How exactly did u check the window parts? Multimeter?

The intercooler fill tank is the one closest to the front windshield. Fill it back up to the half moon and monitor it. Keep refilling for two weeks, if its still draining you have a leak somewhere. Do the same for the engine coolant tank too, only open when car is cold. Both intercooler n engine coolant tanks are known to leak at the seams when warmed up. Check for dry coolant stains but something else could also develop leaks like radiators or hoses/hose fittings.

Have you scanned the car with ista for errors?

Also dealership originally told me i needed new regulator and motor. So i bought one and hooked it up but no luck

[f80mthirty]

Originally Posted by hC1001

You should probably find an independant shop to take a look at your car. Go with safelite for the front glass, maybe your insurance can cover it.

How exactly did u check the window parts? Multimeter?

The intercooler fill tank is the one closest to the front windshield. Fill it back up to the half moon and monitor it. Keep refilling for two weeks, if its still draining you have a leak somewhere. Do the same for the engine coolant tank too, only open when car is cold. Both intercooler n engine coolant tanks are known to leak at the seams when warmed up. Check for dry coolant stains but something else could also develop leaks like radiators or hoses/hose fittings.

Have you scanned the car with ista for errors?

I checked for dry coolant, popped off charge pipes and nothing. Intercooler is cool to the touch after a drive and no coolant warning light. When i top off the one for engine coolant and intercooler is there a bleed procedure or can i just fill it up ?

[hC1001]

Use a multimeter to check the window switch, and regulator.

Intercooler usually leaks into the j pipe, not the charge pipes.

Yes there is a bleed procedure but thats more for ppl doing coolant flushes. Just fill it up between the half moon and monitor it for 2 weeks, see if the level stabilizes.

[spidy512]

yo,

Regarding the thumping. It is probably your rear diff busing. Depending on your yeat F80, the old stocl ones tore frequently. The result is a "thump" when you are between "on" and "off" the gas. It is especially noticable in stop and go traffic. I could hear mine on heavy acceloration as well. There are a number of threads on this if you search "rear diff bushing". KIt is not terribly expensive, and is not a great DIY.

The rest of your issues are sorta weird. If not a bit spooky. I would def have the car looked over my an indy that speacializes in M cars.

good luck!

josh

[f80mthirty]

Originally Posted by spidy512

yo,

Regarding the thumping. It is probably your rear diff busing. Depending on your yeat F80, the old stocl ones tore frequently. The result is a "thump" when you are between "on" and "off" the gas. It is especially noticable in stop and go traffic. I could hear mine on heavy acceloration as well. There are a number of threads on this if you search "rear diff bushing". KIt is not terribly expensive, and is not a great DIY.

The rest of your issues are sorta weird. If not a bit spooky. I would def have the car looked over my an indy that speacializes in M cars.

good luck!

josh

I had the car looked at but no look. We ran through everything. Spark plugs and coils, compression test etc. no luck

Also checked to see why the car is so quiet and no luck. I have downpipes and midpipe but my startup is quieter than when I was stock. No cold start delete.

[f80fan]

Originally Posted by f80yahya

Also checked to see why the car is so quiet and no luck. I have downpipes and midpipe but my startup is quieter than when I was stock. No cold start delete.

If quiet on start up it sounds like the wastegates aren't opening. Used to heat the cats up quicker, but obviously not needed for yours with downpipes fitted.

Is cold start delete automatic when running BM3 Stage 2?... no cats with Stage 2 so heat up not required

[f80mthirty]

Originally Posted by f80fan

If quiet on start up it sounds like the wastegates aren't opening. Used to heat the cats up quicker, but obviously not needed for yours with downpipes fitted.

Is cold start delete automatic when running BM3 Stage 2?... no cats with Stage 2 so heat up not required

I figured cold start delete is automatically turned off when stage 2. I flashed back to stock and cold start got louder. Also, my cold start idle is terrible now to where the whole car starts shaking and jumpy idle. I did the NGK plugs recently and checked and gapped correctly. Should i reset adaptations again. This happened when i was stage 2 and it went away when i reset however i think it’s another issue not spark plug related. I was stage two for a week and never had a jumpy idle than it magically started appearing.

[Skiy]

Your rear diff mount is more likely shot which will make axle seals leak. Get the turner dual mount with yellow oem poly bushings and it should stop the clunk. Also check transmission mounts. They break easily. And lastly check you flywheel for play. The dual mass flywheel tends to fail after a few years and as you approach 70k miles. All that happened on my car