2016 M4. Can I save my battery or am I SOL

[BloomRunsDubs]

Hey everyone,

Ive had a 16 M4 for a little over a year now, love the car and am just getting it out of storage for the first time.

My issue is I didn’t think it would be much different than any of my previous cars (E9X M3s, multiple AMGs, even a Lambo) so when I put it away for winter I just plugged it into the same trickle charger I’ve used on all those other cars and 4 months later it is as dead as possible. Should have read the owners manual I guess.

I had no idea it used a Lithium ion battery. My mistake. I went and purchased the CTEK lithium charger and it will not help. It gets to stage 2 if I jump the car but eventually just goes back into flashing green mode meaning the battery is drained and won’t accept the charge. If I hold the reset button 10 seconds it turns red meaning it won’t accept the charge.

Anyone have any idea if there is anything else I can try? Should I try taking the battery out of the car and try charging it? Should I jump the car and go drive the car around for a couple hours?

Before I get any of the snarky “don’t buy it if you can’t afford it” comments. The car is paid off. Regardless I don’t feel like spending $1500 on a F’ing car battery lol

Thanks!

[SD ///M4]

In the instruction manual for the CTEK you will find this section:

Batteries with "Under Voltage Protection"
Some Lithium-ion batteries have an on-board UVP (under-voltage protection) that disconnects the battery to avoid it becoming too deeply discharged. This prohibits the CTEK charger from detecting that there’s a battery connected. To bypass this, the battery charger needs to open the UVP.

By pressing the RESET-button for 10 seconds, the charger opens the UVP. During this process, the charging STEP 7 is lit. Once the UVP has been opened and the battery is ready to be charged, the charger automatically starts the charging cycle.

I'd try this first. When I had a low voltage situation, before I knew about this, I jump-started my car and then went for a drive for an hour. Everything was fine after that, but I also put it on the CTEK and ran it through a full cycle. I started a whole thread about this 2-3 years ago which you can find if you search on CTEK and my username.

[hC1001]

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1809127

[BloomRunsDubs]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

In the instruction manual for the CTEK you will find this section:

Batteries with "Under Voltage Protection"
Some Lithium-ion batteries have an on-board UVP (under-voltage protection) that disconnects the battery to avoid it becoming too deeply discharged. This prohibits the CTEK charger from detecting that there’s a battery connected. To bypass this, the battery charger needs to open the UVP.

By pressing the RESET-button for 10 seconds, the charger opens the UVP. During this process, the charging STEP 7 is lit. Once the UVP has been opened and the battery is ready to be charged, the charger automatically starts the charging cycle.

I'd try this first. When I had a low voltage situation, before I knew about this, I jump-started my car and then went for a drive for an hour. Everything was fine after that, but I also put it on the CTEK and ran it through a full cycle. I started a whole thread about this 2-3 years ago which you can find if you search on CTEK and my username.

I have tried holding the reset button. Stage 7 is lit and then Stage 1 lights briefly before the red error light comes on. I will try taking it for a extended drive. Thanks for the reply!

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by BloomRunsDubs

I have tried holding the reset button. Stage 7 is lit and then Stage 1 lights briefly before the red error light comes on. I will try taking it for a extended drive. Thanks for the reply!

Oops, missed that you did that in your OP. Battery sounds like it's toast.

[tom @ eas]

See if there's any voltage present at the terminals with a multimeter or battery load tester. If not, there's a chance leaving the tender connected killed the battery - requiring replacement.

[IVM3]

I would first try jump starting the car with another car to see if that works. If so, drive around on the highway for 20 minutes, then park and hook it up to your charger.

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

See if there's any voltage present at the terminals with a multimeter or battery load tester. If not, there's a chance leaving the tender connected killed the battery - requiring replacement.

Please explain why you think that leaving the CTEK charger (not a tender, that's a brand name) would cause it to kill the battery. Lots of people here have used the CTEK charger, or the identical charger that's BMW branded, over the last six years and I don't recall anyone saying that it killed their battery. On the contrary, because of the way that the CTEK charger can override the UVP, it has saved many batteries that seemed to be dead.

It's one thing for some forum rando to give his unsupported opinion, but to have a vendor trash a brand based on mere speculation ("there's a chance") borders on irresponsible.

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

Please explain why you think that leaving the CTEK charger (not a tender, that's a brand name) would cause it to kill the battery. Lots of people here have used the CTEK charger, or the identical charger that's BMW branded, over the last six years and I don't recall anyone saying that it killed their battery. On the contrary, because of the way that the CTEK charger can override the UVP, it has saved many batteries that seemed to be dead.

It's one thing for some forum rando to give his unsupported opinion, but to have a vendor trash a brand based on mere speculation ("there's a chance") borders on irresponsible.

No one is trashing anything. Settle down.

Depending on the type of charger (CTEK offers multiple) that was used, there is a change the battery was damaged by overcharging - as OP quoted be purchased a lithium-specific charger after the battery failed.

[BloomRunsDubs]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

No one is trashing anything. Settle down.

Depending on the type of charger (CTEK offers multiple) that was used, there is a change the battery was damaged by overcharging - as OP quoted be purchased a lithium-specific charger after the battery failed.

Yes I had the regular CTEK charger (Not lithium) on the car for 4 months. I had no idea it was a lithium battery. That may have damaged my battery.

I tested the voltage and it was next to 0. The battery doesn’t accept the lithium charger. It jumps to stage 7 then stage 1 lights briefly before the red error light comes on.

Anyways thanks everyone for their reply’s! I have tried everything. Looks like I will have to buy the new battery

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by SD ///M4

Please explain why you think that leaving the CTEK charger (not a tender, that's a brand name) would cause it to kill the battery. Lots of people here have used the CTEK charger, or the identical charger that's BMW branded, over the last six years and I don't recall anyone saying that it killed their battery. On the contrary, because of the way that the CTEK charger can override the UVP, it has saved many batteries that seemed to be dead.

It's one thing for some forum rando to give his unsupported opinion, but to have a vendor trash a brand based on mere speculation ("there's a chance") borders on irresponsible.

Not sure why you feel the need to attack someone. People do make mistakes. In this situation, he is correct if you wouldve read and understood the OPs situation.
The OP used a lead acid battery charger on a lifepo4 battery. The lifepo4 battery needs a lithium battery charger. The Lead acid battery charger gives too much current for a lifepo4 battery when the voltage is low. A lithium charger gives a low current charge until the battery reaches 12.8v. The lead acid charger can also give too much or too little voltage which can also kill a lifepo4 battery. The target voltage for a lifepo4 battery is 14v but not over 14.6v.

[speedracerM4]

Originally Posted by BloomRunsDubs

Yes I had the regular CTEK charger (Not lithium) on the car for 4 months. I had no idea it was a lithium battery. That may have damaged my battery.

I tested the voltage and it was next to 0. The battery doesn't accept the lithium charger. It jumps to stage 7 then stage 1 lights briefly before the red error light comes on.

Anyways thanks everyone for their reply's! I have tried everything. Looks like I will have to buy the new battery

I did a lot of research before buying a lithium ion charger. I ultimately went with a noco genius 10. It got my original battery back up to 90% and I was able to re-register the battery and turn off the replace battery notification. It's around $100 on amazon and may be worth the gamble over a $2k battery. If it doesn't work, you can always send it back.

[Hoppyumr]

I also got the NOCO, but the genius 5 charger. I wanted one that could also charge regular batteries. I will say that you have to be careful to make sure it is on the right type of battery when you plug it in or turn it on; it retains the last setting, but still best to check. I also liked that it had a desulfation mode to it to help repair lead acid batteries.

[FriedPiston]

Originally Posted by BloomRunsDubs

I have tried everything. Looks like I will have to buy the new battery

Good way to show your support for forum vendors: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1809127

[BloomRunsDubs]

Originally Posted by FriedPiston

Good way to show your support for forum vendors: https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1809127

Most likely going this route. Waiting on a quote for oem

Thanks

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by BloomRunsDubs

Most likely going this route. Waiting on a quote for oem

Thanks

No problem. Just make sure you register the new battery once its installed.

[BloomRunsDubs]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

No problem. Just make sure you register the new battery once its installed.

Order placed. I will make sure your instructions are followed correctly.

Thanks again!

[SD ///M4]

Originally Posted by tom @ eas

No one is trashing anything. Settle down.

Depending on the type of charger (CTEK offers multiple) that was used, there is a change the battery was damaged by overcharging - as OP quoted be purchased a lithium-specific charger after the battery failed.

My apologies. Apparently reading thoroughly is not my strong suit lately. I also missed the fact that he used his old trickle charger before he bought the CTEK charger. I agree that using a charger not designed for a LiFePo battery was a bad idea and may have contributed to the death of the battery.

[AlmondJayRoM3]

The internal battery circuitry has a safety mechanism in the form of a safety switch. In opens when the battery hits 16V. When it’s open you will see 0 V on a multimeter. The safety switches will shut when the battery voltage comes back down to 14.5 volts. Trying to force charge the battery in this condition won’t do a thing.

[ALCOBENDAS]

Originally Posted by AlmondJayRoM3

The internal battery circuitry has a safety mechanism in the form of a safety switch. In opens when the battery hits 16V. When it’s open you will see 0 V on a multimeter. The safety switches will shut when the battery voltage comes back down to 14.5 volts. Trying to force charge the battery in this condition won’t do a thing.

Had one with 0v, what need to do? Force with 16v? The car left in workshop 2 months and now this.. thanks

[AlmondJayRoM3]

Originally Posted by ALCOBENDAS

Had one with 0v, what need to do? Force with 16v? The car left in workshop 2 months and now this.. thanks

It’s worth a shot assuming it went to 0V because of an under voltage condition. Just remember, the bmw lithium battery will also read 0V if the safety switches open in an over voltage condition as in the OP’s case.

[hC1001]

Originally Posted by ALCOBENDAS

Had one with 0v, what need to do? Force with 16v? The car left in workshop 2 months and now this.. thanks

Jump the car with another car and drive it around. If you get an idrive battery charging error, the battery may be bad.

If not, maybe the battery was in undervoltage shut off mode and after the jump start, you can recharge using a lithium battery charger or driving the car around for a long period of time or using a running car.