07-16-2022, 02:28 PM | #2333 | |
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Some folks use a pad spreader but I find it a bit clumsy. |
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07-16-2022, 05:29 PM | #2334 | |
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Honestly not sure what to do other than using my old flat head method, but I'll wait for others to chime in. |
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07-16-2022, 06:06 PM | #2335 |
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In more bad news, just decided to check my suspension reservoir pressures.
FL 0 RL 25 FR 250 RR 225 *All pressures with the car on the ground. This may potentially be related to my tire issues. I guess I'll lift the car up as it says to do this with shock fully extended, drop pressures on the right to around 200, and fill the left with compressed air and drive to an air supply place to refill with nitrogen. Could the dampeners have sustained damage with so little pressure? |
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07-17-2022, 08:54 AM | #2336 | |
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07-17-2022, 09:29 AM | #2337 |
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Yeh I plan to call MCS tomorrow, but I may have overreacted.
From what I can tell these things hold very little gas. Duh, they're small. When I was putting the shock inflator tool on, I definitely lost gas on the FL. Didn't seem like much at the time, but when I went to drop the FR pressure, a small release brought the pressure down by about half. So I likely I just released all the air in FL on my own, which only took about 3 seconds to do on these canisters, and panicked when I found it at 0. Only one that concerns me is the RL at 25 psi. I definitely had the tool on properly when checking that one and didn't lose air. I'll be filling that one up and monitoring for a week to see if it's leaking air. |
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07-17-2022, 10:30 AM | #2338 |
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The purpose of the gas pressure is to support the oil column to prevent cavitation as the piston moves through it. I don't think it's likely any damage was done with too low/no gas pressure. You probably didn't have very consistent damping with under-gassed dampers though.
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07-17-2022, 11:22 AM | #2339 | |
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They would likely have had a disclaimer to never run without pressure or risk damaging the dampeners if the possibility of damage existed. |
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07-18-2022, 05:19 PM | #2340 |
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Alright well I talked to a bunch of people today...
MCS, Bimmerworld, Dyson Racing, and a bunch of useless local auto shops. Started with Wyatt at MCS. He basically told me that in 90% of cases where they find a reservoir losing pressure, its because the installer did not properly reinstall the schrader valve on the canister side. He was a bit more descriptive with this, so I cant add too much detail, but he essentially told me to check the torque on the nut holding the schrader valve and to mark it with a paint pen. He then told me to repressurize with nitrogen and monitor for a week for a leak. I then questioned him why I was only maximizing reservoir pressure at 100psi when pressurizing with compressed air(before driving to a nitrogen supplier), and he explained why I was finding that which was helpful; essentially that my home compressor can't provide pressure beyond that which I confirmed as my compressor maxes at 135psi. He did state that yes, cavitation may occur when running too low of a pressure, and damage may occur to seals, etc. Not great news considering I've done 6 track days on this setup the past few months plus street driving. I also asked him about spring lengths and rates and he gave his input, but directed me to Bimmerworld for specifics as they've tested just about every setup on their street/test cars. He did state that he advises against a 5" front spring and that he sees tons of F80 guys running 5" front springs but that they're likely coil binding. Secondly, I spoke with Josh at Bimmerworld. He agreed with Wyatt regarding 5" springs to some extent. He suggested running more spacer, which for me is not an option as my 94" studs are already maxed out with a 20mm spacer, but then suggested trying the 5" to see how it goes. They both basically told me I'll be at the limit of the spring before coil binding with this setup. My new 5" springs arrived today so I'll be trying them soon. I also asked Josh about my reservoir pressure issues and he backed what Wyatt suggested in that I should pressurize and monitor, so I'll do that for now. Hopefully I'm okay, and if not, I'll send the rear left to MCS for a rebuild/assessment, which will be a hassle to do. Josh also told me that, as another poster mentioned, the thrust bearings on my dampener assembly were not installed correctly. I should only have one resin and one steel sheet at the bottom of the main spring, and not have another set at the top of the main spring or top of the helper as my installer did. Collars > White Resin Sheet > Steel Sheet > Main Spring. Do not install the sheets elsewhere in the assembly. As far as compressing pads on my Alcon BBK, he advised using a spreader tool as thats what they use. He did not have any input as to why I was having issues so I guess I'll be getting a spreader tool. Between these conversations I was calling around a bunch of places to find somewhere I can repressurize with nitrogen. No one had the option to do it and everyone directed me to Dyson Racing which is local to me. I called them a bunch of times with no response, and then decided to drive over during lunch to ask around. Well as it turns out, they have tons of nitrogen and tons of amazing race cars. I was toured around by a very smart guy, possibly their lead tech or lead engineer, but ultimately they wouldn't fill up my canisters due to insurance. Had the system been off the car he would have done it. They only have two customers, both of which are insured, with one owning a Wolf and the other a 2014 winning LMP car. He's the lead on the LMP car and showed me a bunch of amazing things. I then saw both of their Trans Am cars for this year along with next years Trans Am prototype. That car is running my exact Alcon BBK which I found awesome. So much cool tech on all of these cars. Oh, I also saw blue caliper boxes on the floor in their support trailer and asked what those were. Opens the box and they're nickel plated Alcon calipers, much bigger than my BBK calipers. Full bridge too. Really thankful for being shown around at Dyson. I'm glad they're doing well this year. Their team is definitely on top of things based on what I saw. They had a sign that read "Wipe your shoes" at the entrance of the shop which you don't see at most places, let alone auto shops. Anyway, the day ended with a welding supplier telling me they'd fill my canisters no problem. I initially called there in the morning and was told I couldn't use or rent any equipment, which I guess was a good thing as it led me to Dyson and everything I saw there. FYI, the welding place only charges 18 cents a day to rent a tank which I find odd. Must be some sort of regulation. Last edited by MaX PL; 07-18-2022 at 05:24 PM.. |
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07-18-2022, 06:04 PM | #2341 |
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consider buying a small nitro tank and regulator ($300 for the setup). costs me $30 to fill up every year or just shy of that.
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07-18-2022, 06:27 PM | #2342 | |
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07-18-2022, 09:08 PM | #2343 |
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To spread the pistons out I use the Girodisc tool. I don't love it, but it's better than the rest. By now mine has been modified and looks like a mad max version of the original Giro tool, significantly strengthen etc.
A word of advice, open the bleed nipples when compressing the pistons.
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07-18-2022, 09:56 PM | #2344 | |
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F80 M3-DCT MaxPSI CH, BM3 with F80 Paul E85 and Custom Rom track tune MCS 2Way Remotes
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07-19-2022, 07:54 AM | #2345 | |
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Anyway, air enters the system even less if you open the nipples and compress the pistons, as that pushes fluid out of the brakes. In a nutshell, I want to mini-bleed the brakes when I change pads. The fluid right in the caliper has seen the highest temp and may have some debris on it, so I want it out |
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07-19-2022, 09:41 AM | #2346 |
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Man, sry to hear that jfritz27, and with the family present. Good thing for track insurance, excellent piece of mind once you know your safe, what a different experience that would be without it. Good luck to you!!
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07-21-2022, 09:31 AM | #2347 | |
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Still waiting on the damn adjuster to show up.... |
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07-21-2022, 05:19 PM | #2348 |
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Obviously I've never driven VIR but seen lots of laps from C&D as a reference point. BW running 1:56 is pretty nuts to think about.
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07-22-2022, 07:50 AM | #2349 |
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[QUOTE=RugbyBro;29136522]Obviously I've never driven VIR but seen lots of laps from C&D as a reference point. BW running 1:56 is pretty nuts to think about.
It's really fast. Our GTS did a 2:01.2 rolling lap with us driving. Our CS did 2:00 with James driving. The GTMore has to get a few seconds faster still in that exact configuration, it's half raining during that record attempt!
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07-22-2022, 05:40 PM | #2350 | |
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[QUOTE=SYT_Shadow;29138037]
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Anything under 2 is super fast at VIR?
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07-22-2022, 06:25 PM | #2351 | |
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[QUOTE=DRLane;29140276]
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For laptimes: GT4 class cars in IMSA with pro drivers will do a fastest lap 1:55 or so. |
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07-22-2022, 06:35 PM | #2352 | |
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From everything I've watched under 2 min on the full config is very, very fast
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07-22-2022, 06:41 PM | #2353 | ||
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[QUOTE=DRLane;29140276]
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The Lightning Lap course goes into the tiny, ridiculous infield that no regular organization runs. So it creates times that are not comparable to anything else. When we ran into the C&D team testing last year we gave them that feedback... An added bonus if C&D used the regular course then we could see where we match up vs their cars, and also see how modern cars stack up to GT4 and GT3 class cars in IMSA racing. Instead, it's a comparison to nothing at all. Another issue with the C&D testing is all manufacturers are invited to show up to support. So brand A shows up with a trailer full of tires and swaps tires every two laps? Acceptable! And if brand B does not, then they just run what the car comes with and hope for the best. There's a pretty big chasm between running all as crap tires and new ones |
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07-22-2022, 07:00 PM | #2354 | |
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[QUOTE=SYT_Shadow;29140464]
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